Engine rattles on startup

Does the alternator or a/c compressor have bearings in the pulleys? It sounds like ball bearing.
 
Not a great day for you...

I think we all know the feeling. Anyway, the alternator has ball bearing (2) in it. The AC compressor has some number (at least 2) in it, and the AC clutch has one.

The AC clutch and AC compressor should be easy to rule out. Listen for the sound with the climate control off, and then listen with the climate control on cool with the blower at max (verify that the inner part of the clutch is now turning).
Noise only with the AC turned off = bad or misadjusted AC clutch.
Noise only with the AC turned on = probably bad compressor or slipping clutch.
Noise with AC on or off, probably not the AC compressor or clutch.

Where is the crack? Do you see coolant leaking there?
 
It seems to be one thing after another here lately.

The crack is one the other side of the upper radiator hose - starting at the top going down at least 2 inches (and then I can't see it due to other objects in the way). I was actually checking the work I did the night before when I noticed the antifreeze. It's a slow leak.
 
Good news - I've positively identified the source of my problems. The new accessory drive parts are in, and with the additional tension the noise is now constant. Sounds like the bearings are shot on the alternator. Been trying to remove it, and this is one of those jobs that I'd like to meet the designer on. I'd either like to see his 1 inch diameter arms with 17 different joints that all swivel 360 degrees so I can see how easy it is for him to do this job, or arrange for him to have 17 different joints in each arm. I shoulda had this damned thing out by now.

Looks like the top bolt is a male torx head, and of course I have no female torx head drivers so after I get cleaned up I have to go get some, then let the car sit until next week. I'm glad this isn't my only vehicle. And, can anyone clue me in on how to get the electrical plug off the alternator? I can't see the thing, and can't tell how it comes off by feel. It feels like they used a hidden catch connector on it, then made sure to rotate the catch so it can't be seen.

Incidentally, the idler pulley Rock Auto sends is Goodyear pn 49001, which is too large in diameter. The local parts store sells the same pulley, saying it's a superceded part. They matched my old idler pulley up to a Gates pn 38006, and gave me a bushing since it didn't look like it would fit right. I cut the bushing down so it would fit along with the bolt that has a built-on bushing, then added a washer between the bushing and the mount point. Works like a charm. If you decide to use the larger idler pulley, you will need a belt about an inch longer than the factory belt. Not sure exactly how much longer since I'm not using it, but I'm guesstimating an inch.
 
Are you pulling it from the bottom? I had to pull ffrom the bottom on my 1st Gen. It was still a PITA though.

2006 Lincoln LS in Cashmere Tri-Coat Metallic.
 
The bolt shouldn't be torx.......

Once all the bolts are off, it's pretty easy to rotate the alt and get the plug off.
The alt has to drop out the bottom. Keep the suspension loaded, as there's not enough room with the wheel hanging down. It's a tight fit and will only go one way. Pulley pointing down, keep rotating until it falls out.
 
What kind of bolt is it then? I am pulling from the bottom. Well, attempting to. And, does the bottom bolt have to come all the way out? It was put in from the front, and is running into the sway bar. It looks like it came far enough for the alt to come out, but am not sure.
 
Remember..... The engine was assembled prior to installation.

That's why I paid the hour labour for someone else to deal with the headache!!!!!!
 
LS4me said:
Remember..... The engine was assembled prior to installation.

That's why I paid the hour labour for someone else to deal with the headache!!!!!!
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This is why I feel that the people who engineer these cars should be required to pull a year working at a random dealership maintenance shop before they're allowed to design anything. Perhaps they'd design this stuff with a little more thought with a little grease under their fingers.

Picked up a set of Torx female sockets, will be giving it another try tomorrow. Our warm spell is going to be going away next week, we'll be 81 tomorrow but all next week is back in the 50s. And, if it turns out to be a Torx it'll be replaced with something more conventional. I freakin' HATE Torx anything.
 
Telco said:
This is why I feel that the people who engineer these cars should be required to pull a year working at a random dealership maintenance shop before they're allowed to design anything. Perhaps they'd design this stuff with a little more thought with a little grease under their fingers....
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No, they'd be fired. If you want to do that to anyone, make the product managers work in the service bays. The engineers design to the specs they are given. If they increase costs or design time for features that aren't in the PRD, they will suffer.

Very very few people buy new cars with any consideration to how hard they will be to work on.
 
It's a standard bolt. It's been a couple of years since I R&R'd the alternator, but isn't the top one the two part bolt? One from the front and one from the back? Yours must just be really chewed up from the previous effort. Maybe replace it while it's out?
The bottom one *should* come all the way out, but if you can move the alt away from the bracket then that's good enough.
 
oddball said:
It's a standard bolt. It's been a couple of years since I R&R'd the alternator, but isn't the top one the two part bolt? One from the front and one from the back? Yours must just be really chewed up from the previous effort. Maybe replace it while it's out?
The bottom one *should* come all the way out, but if you can move the alt away from the bracket then that's good enough.
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I stumbled across a small mirror I thought I'd lost, and used it to actually look up in there. Yes, it was a stud I was trying to remove when what I needed to be doing was remove a 13mm nut. I've since gotten the alt out, and down to the rebuild shop that I've been using for years. And, it's been reinstalled. They replaced the bearings, but said that the bearings were fine and it was most likely the water pump I was hearing. I don't know for sure yet though as I didn't quite have the idler pulley spaced properly and wound up shredding the belt. The belt lasted long enough for me to see that I now have the idler in place, but now must be replaced. I'll pick up another one tomorrow.

I swear though, I've never had a car actively fight me on a repair so much as this car's been fighting me. I'm used to work going a lot faster and easier than this, almost like I throw tools at the engine bay and have the intended parts fall off on their own, then throw the new parts at the engine and have them install themselves. I had to fight the car to perform every single action I did on this job.
 
Ya I got the same issue on my 05.. only when cold start up sounds like a lifter or a broken rod slapping around... goes away after 3 sec... makes me very nervous and upset just bought the car Wednesday... have we found a solution yet?
 
I have the same issue on my '03 and it sounds horrible. Like a very serious problem but only after sitting. Goes away after less than 2 seconds and the car runs perfectly. It's not the alternator, not the starter hanging up, not anything the serp belt drives and it's not the secondary tensioners.
Someone, somewhere please solve this one.
 
Also awaiting results. Maybe in a few weeks I'll start diagnosing my ls, but until then, I'll keep up with yours :D
 
RCodePaul said:
I have the same issue on my '03 and it sounds horrible. Like a very serious problem but only after sitting. Goes away after less than 2 seconds and the car runs perfectly. It's not the alternator, not the starter hanging up, not anything the serp belt drives and it's not the secondary tensioners.
Someone, somewhere please solve this one.
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I think (but don't know) that it's piston slap. If it is, it's not great, but it's not fatal either.
 
Have a thought... I took to the ls to auto zone to have light checked. got an error code... the resutls of the code came up with....

P0022

A variable cam timing. Over retarted (story of my life lol)

Explanation
The ECM has detected the VCT postion is in a over retarted condition-camshaft - timimng retarded probable cause.

Cam Timing incorrect
or
VCT Solenoid stuck open



Could this be the issues the sound we are having??
 
BigWayner95 said:
Have a thought... I took to the ls to auto zone to have light checked. got an error code... the resutls of the code came up with....

P0022

A variable cam timing. Over retarted (story of my life lol)

Explanation
The ECM has detected the VCT postion is in a over retarted condition-camshaft - timimng retarded probable cause.

Cam Timing incorrect
or
VCT Solenoid stuck open



Could this be the issues the sound we are having??
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It's not my issue, and no one else with the noise has mentioned the check engine light being on.
 
joegr said:
It's not my issue, and no one else with the noise has mentioned the check engine light being on.
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Good point joe... Maybe I have 2 issues at the same time... hmmmm... well I just got off the phone with the shop i got the car from. Made an appoitment on monday for them to fix it for free since I just got it wednesday. so I will ask a ton of questions to ensure everything is fixed and inquire for you all...

Although i still have the rattle too...so we shall see what monday brings...
 
What about the water pump? Most of my problems including this noise started after the car overheated. Any thoughts?
 
nicholbe said:
What about the water pump? Most of my problems including this noise started after the car overheated. Any thoughts?
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Maybe. Take the belt off and spin it by hand. See if you can wobble the pulley.
 
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