beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
Anyone ever smoke test the EVAP system for leaks?
EVAp leak testing
- Thread starter beerdog
- Start date
There are some pretty crazy home made smoke machines, and you really need to be careful if your not using an inert gas to push the smoke. I have seen everything from ones that use cigars to oil lamp wicks to dry ice to produce the smoke.
I get (or got...I might have solved it) a gas smell in the cabin of the car, it usually happens when the gas level is low, but not always. I figure I need to do a smoke test to track it down. I also thought you had to somehow trigger the purge valve and/or the solenoid to test all of it.
I get (or got...I might have solved it) a gas smell in the cabin of the car, it usually happens when the gas level is low, but not always. I figure I need to do a smoke test to track it down. I also thought you had to somehow trigger the purge valve and/or the solenoid to test all of it.
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
Why do you have to be careful about not using an inert gas? I have a party store fog machine that uses a deionized water based glycol/glycerine fog liquid. Not sure if it would be the best thing to use, although people do it.
yes, there is a test port with a green top near the passenger fenderwell. You want to remove the shrader valve inside it to do a smoke test. The purge can be left alone during a smoke test. The vent solenoid which is in the EVAP tray needs to be energized to close it or the vent line disconnected and pugged. Plugging the line will not allow you to verify the valve closes and seals properly but you can check the rest of the system. The vent valve s actually easy to energize using a multimeter. My tuner recommended I take it to dealer to have the EVAP system tested.
What I read is that you will smell gas if the vent solenoid does not close when the car starts up. But it should then throw a code. My tuner said he sees EVAP drive cycle problems all the time that do not throw codes. A former master mechanic at work said just about any slight leak will cause codes. The topic is obviously up for debate.
yes, there is a test port with a green top near the passenger fenderwell. You want to remove the shrader valve inside it to do a smoke test. The purge can be left alone during a smoke test. The vent solenoid which is in the EVAP tray needs to be energized to close it or the vent line disconnected and pugged. Plugging the line will not allow you to verify the valve closes and seals properly but you can check the rest of the system. The vent valve s actually easy to energize using a multimeter. My tuner recommended I take it to dealer to have the EVAP system tested.
What I read is that you will smell gas if the vent solenoid does not close when the car starts up. But it should then throw a code. My tuner said he sees EVAP drive cycle problems all the time that do not throw codes. A former master mechanic at work said just about any slight leak will cause codes. The topic is obviously up for debate.
Fuel vapors and oxygen mixing and being under pressure. All commercial shop smoke machines uss inert compressed gas and not an air compressor.
Fog machines work well and don't have a lot of pressure which is good.
Fog machines work well and don't have a lot of pressure which is good.
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
I seem to find assorted posts on different car forums about people using these. I will probably try it this weekend.