Fast Baggin the Mark VIII

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PimpMyTint

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OK, I have concluded that the factory compressor is toast. So... in the trunk, I am going to install a 5 Gallon Air Tank, an aftermarket compresor rated at 150Psi, with a pressure switch that comes on at 130Psi, and off at 150Psi. I will be using eight 1/4" valves (4 for fills, 4 for dumps). All 3/8" air lines. I will run the wiring to a set of switches that will be located inside the car, where I can control the switches at will, even while driving. I am basically completely bypassing the factory air management system, besides the bags. The only question I have is this:
On the factory bags, what is the fitting on the bags? I see that the solenoids twist out, but I have no idea if there is a standard fitting on the bag itself. Any help? I need to use a 3/8" push fitting for the air line I will be running, and the factory solenoids that twist into the bags now, will be removed. What type of fitting can I use to plumb the new airline to the factory air port on the bags?
Thanks!

(I will post lots of pics when the project is complete!)
 
I was told once that you need to replace the factory bags to run a fast setup. You might want to anyway depending on the mileage!

Oh and look into running nitrogen rather than a compressor and tank, you might like that better. Its much faster.
 
lscmkviii said:
I was told once that you need to replace the factory bags to run a fast setup. You might want to anyway depending on the mileage!
Click to expand...

Not true, unfortunately the one that has mastered this past away :( (Kale) I believe he drilled new holes to mount the larger lines in the existing bags.
 
I don't want the bags to be "FAST", I would just like to have a 5 gal reserve, and the ability to adjust ride height at will. I have had a "FAST" bagged vehicle before, and believe me, it's not as fun as you'd think. VERY hard to adjust exactly as you'd like. Thats why I'm only using 1/4" valves (restricts air velocity). I love the look of the Mark laid out when parked. This is one of the main reasons I'm doing it like this. I just wish I knew what type and size fitting was on the factory bag.
 
Jibit said:
Not true, unfortunately the one that has mastered this past away :( (Kale) I believe he drilled new holes to mount the larger lines in the existing bags.
Click to expand...

Didn't he post some step-by-step progress on the other board?
 
I don't know the answer to that question. But... I am TRYING to avoid pulling all the bags. Drilling & Tapping NEW holes for new airline would be unnecessary if I can figure out what type & size fitting is on the factory bag. The factory fitting is fine, even if it is constrictive. Like I said, "Fast" is not what I meant, I just said that so everyone would understand the concept. I'd much rather prefer at least a 1 second top to bottom "drop", and about a 1 full second "raise". Much "classier", not so ghetto, ya know? lol

Maybe I can get this info from the dealership. I guess it's worth a shot. No doubt I'll be on the phone for an hour...haha.
 
I see this a lot in my hobby of hot-rodding. A lot of old Fords and Mercs are bagged, and there is someone I know who is using LSC bags and the air-ride technology to bag his car, let me talk to him about it and I'll get back to you.
 
EXCELLENT!!! I would REALLY appreciate that! Feel free to give me a call! My number & all the "other" ways to get a hold of me are in my sig at the top.
 
its not a fitting, its a orange coupling thing that you just press the air line into and it locks. You could probably find what I'm talking about on the suspension parts places, they have the peice on the solenoid that locks to the bag and the same "fitting" is on the dryer. You can by them cheap if you want to see how big they are.
 
Thats exactly what I need to know... The fitting that the solenoid twists into. Is there a fitting I can buy to twist into that, or is THAT fitting screwed into the bag itself, or PART of the bag. If the fitting ON the bag comes off, chances are there's probably a NPT threaded hole on the bag. If not, the fitting the solenoid twists into may be molded as part of the bag assembly. Any help?
Thanks!
 
PimpMyTint said:
I don't want the bags to be "FAST", I would just like to have a 5 gal reserve, and the ability to adjust ride height at will. I have had a "FAST" bagged vehicle before, and believe me, it's not as fun as you'd think. VERY hard to adjust exactly as you'd like. Thats why I'm only using 1/4" valves (restricts air velocity). I love the look of the Mark laid out when parked. This is one of the main reasons I'm doing it like this. I just wish I knew what type and size fitting was on the factory bag.
Click to expand...

google "dakota digital" .. you can preset any height you want so you always know exactly where you sit.. And you can have multiple presets.
 
Nice. A little fast for my taste anymore. I had a Chevy S-10 on REAL fast bags, 250Psi w 3/4" valves & airlines. TOO fast. Damn thing dropped like a BRICK, & hopped like it was on hydraulics. That Mark VIII is sweet tho, just a bit slower, & thats just where I want to be... I will have 8 valves though(2 valves per wheel), and INDEPENDENT control of EACH wheel. This allows front, back... side to side... 3 wheel, and dogleg.
This is the speed I'm looking to achieve...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg7P0GWuvrY&mode=related&search=
 
the fitting for the solonoid (at least for the gen2's) is molded into the bag assy, if i had battery's for my camera i could take pics of some bags and a spair solonoid i have at work
 
I may just take the valve parts out of the solenoid (inner parts) and use the solenoid as the coupling for the airlines. That would work... The solenoid has a push fitting on it from the factory. I can run all my air lines to them. Gets the job done...
 
Update: The fitting on the factory solenoid is NOT 1/4". Of course, it's metric like the rest of the car! (It's 5 mil I believe) So... I either have to run all metric lines, or plumb a new fitting onto the bag, and somehow plug the hole where the factory solenoid is. I have the front strut/bag assemblys out of the car right now, and am stuck here. I'll have to check with my local Parker Fittings store tomorrow and see if they carry metric push fittings. If so, I'm in luck! I'll keep ya up to date!
 
OK, here's most of the air control parts, pre-assembled and ready for installation! (Tank, Compressor, Valves, Switches)

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Turns out the factory solenoid is 5mil, a size NOBODY has except the dealer, and not in lengths, as I need. So... I gotta drill & tap a new hole into the factory bag, & use a push fitting. Ooh well, more work, whaddya know!

I'll post more pics as things progress!
 
OK, project ALMOST complete. I ended up using 1/2" airline because I had a ton of brand new 1/2" fittings, and I just used them to save $. I drilled and tapped 1/4 - 18NPT threads into the front bags (actually ON the square head part of the air inlet where it elbows) (and the rears are just drilled & tapped into the side of the bag near where the original one is (see pics)) I plumbed the airlines and wiring through the grommet in the bottom of the spare tire hole in the trunk. The wire for the switches runs through the trunk, under the carpet, & up under the drivers seat. I tied all the airlines and wiring up away from all moving and hot parts. I removed the factory height sensors altogether. Those will be sold. The valve packs are mounted near each wheel, the exhaust is pointed towards the ground near each wheel pointing outwards, and when the air dumps it blows dust when you set the car down. It works great. I have a few odds & ends to do before I shoot any videos, I'd like it to be clean & lookin decent first. Couple more days... Here's pics of what it looks like...

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Wow good work. Why so many switches? Keep us updated, I'm eager to see the end product.
 
Thanks. I have learned through years of playin with cars, that patience and concentration are key. I have learned not to cut corners as well, because you always end up fixing it the right way, later down the road.

There are 10 switches total:
one switch for each wheel independently (up & down), (4 total)
one switch for all wheels (pancake)(all up & all down),
one switch for front side (up & down),
one switch for back side (up & down),
one switch for right side (up & down),
one switch for left side (up & down)
one switch for 3 wheel (does not apply to this vehicle (hydraulics only))

I noticed while I was under the car that my rear sway bar is broken. I may just remove the front and rear sway bars altogether so that the car will sit sideways at a harder angle /... We'll see. It's almost impossible to hit sideways with swaybars, as they transfer torque to both sides of the car so that it does not "sway" on the road.

I just finished tinting the windows as well. 20% on every window in the car, INCLUDING the whole windshield. I put 5% (limo) on the sunroof. Turned out AWESOME! 4.5 hour project itself, but it's MY car, I'd be a liar if I said I didn't take extra care to make it perfect...lol. I removed the whole rear seat, and rear shelf. The 3rd brakelight was removed as well so that I could tint the glass behind it as well. I HATE the way it looks if the brakelight isn't tinted. I'll reinstall the rear shelf & seat tomorrow after the film has had time to dry a little. I'm SURE it'll look great!

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A few more pics...
I'll shoot some video as soon as I can get a friend over here to shoot while I hit the switches. These pics are with the car completely aired out (down)...

I also installed a JL Audio Sub Box with a Directed Amp, in the trunk. I removed the factory amp, and bolted the compass to the metal bottom of the rear shelf (with a little padding inbetween them). I removed the black plastic shelf holding the compass & amp as well. I had to to make room for the box...

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