Flashing yellow AdvanceTrac icon after New Brakes

LDM said:
Crush washer related posts below (I would think there would be a brake fluid leak, but is it possible to have a small enough leak that it let's air in causing a loss of pressure?)
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not really, no.
 
LDM said:
So far it's been $1950 for 4 new rotors, 4 sets of new pads, 2 new rear calipers, front & rear StopTech SS brake lines, 2 new master cylinders...
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if they replaced the master cylinder twice, and it didnt fix the problem, then the fist one was not bad as you where told, and there is no way that i would pay for a second one (nor the labor to replace a non defective part)
 
chris2523 said:
not really, no.
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Thanks for your response Chris.

Just trying to figure this out since they haven't. I know I was out there stretching it, grasping at straws... but it's free to ask questions here, read the forum threads and try to figure it out.
 
so. what does your pedal do? straight to the floor?
trying to figure what you mean by "no pedal pressure."
because, if you bled the brakes, and the master cylinder works, you should have brakes... even with the abs not functioning or something like that.
it sure sounds to me like a bad master cylinder. but being replaced an no change? i totally understand you're frustration here. wow.

new master cylinder? or cardone remanufactured pieces?
 
I don't know what they got me other than the brand... so I have no idea if it's new or a reman.

I have been in the emergency room, surgery and ICU for issues with my Mom since Wednesday morning (turned out to be gallstones and an infection, had the gallbladder removed). I just got her home 30 minutes ago.

I haven't seen my car or been at the dealership since Tuesday. They say no pedal pressure... that's all I know. They won't let me drive it, as they say it's not safe to be returned to the customer.

I think it would be cheaper to have the entire vehicle crushed, then I couldn't spend another dime on it and no one else could get it. Money could be spent on another vehicle. That is how I feel now.
 
LDM said:
...
I think it would be cheaper to have the entire vehicle crushed, then I couldn't spend another dime on it and no one else could get it. Money could be spent on another vehicle. That is how I feel now.
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It's hard to blame you for feeling that way at this point. BTW, while it is unsafe to drive and they can legally prevent you from driving off with it, they can not legally prevent you from towing it away.

Good luck with your mother's recovery.
 
1LoudLS said:
if they replaced the master cylinder twice, and it didnt fix the problem, then the fist one was not bad as you where told, and there is no way that i would pay for a second one (nor the labor to replace a non defective part)
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That is a mistake on my part in my typing and how I expressed it (in my haste this morning trying to get back to the hospital...).

They put 1 master cylinder on (new to me, might be a reman or new) and there is no pedal pressure. They are putting a 2nd new master cylinder on now... and I have not heard back from them on the status. I will be calling shortly before long to find out (they had to get a carrier to go and get it and bring it back, install it, bleed the brakes, test it).
 
The Lincoln Dealership just called and said they put the 2nd new master cylinder on it today.

It is now leaking brake fluid from the passenger rear caliper bleeder valve, and thus has poor pedal pressure.

I said that was a new caliper installed Wednesday by you and I haven't even gotten the car back from that install. You are telling me it didn't leak until today? He said that's correct, it did not leak yesterday or the day before.

It's too late in the day today to get a new caliper, and the mechanic will not be there tomorrow due to the holiday, so they will get another new passenger rear caliper Tuesday (keeping my car until then).

My car has been in since Monday 2PM for brakes in 1 brake shop, then to the dealer Tuesday for 4 days... a total of 5 days for brakes, so far...

They don't carry Motorcraft brake calipers or master cylinders in this town of over 3 million in the metro area... it's only going to get worse people.

So a bad new rear passenger caliper and a bad new master cylinder during the same brake system repair? :mad::Bang
 
LDM said:
...
So a bad new rear passenger caliper and a bad new master cylinder during the same brake system repair? :mad::Bang
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Well, it is possible. I think it's understandable that the caliper didn't leak until they put a working master cylinder in that actually applied some pressure to it.
 
I can relate and can understand that it can happen. It's just terrible timing and costly. I bought 3 parts from the dealership and 2 out of 3 were bad. No loaner car, no rental, I am near broke and unemployed, and spent the last 3 days at the hospital.

Hopefully we know what the problem(s) are, and hopefully they are near fixed.

Since I got the car 5 months ago, I thought the brakes sucked and were mushy. That's why I originally put the SS lines on there. Having a bad master cylinder and two stuck rear calipers explains a lot of how my brakes felt... and some shaking caused by brakes not working correctly, and probably pushing on the rear rotors constantly & incorrectly etc.

Enough of my ranting.

Enjoy your holiday's fellow LS LVC'rs. I will, as they just saved my Mom's life. Got to look at the good side of things.
 
LDM said:
It is now leaking brake fluid from the passenger rear caliper bleeder valve, and thus has poor pedal pressure.
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silly question, but do they know that it is lefty loosey, and righty tighty when closing the valve?
 
I don't know what they know. It is a Lincoln Dealership working on it (with the help of the Ford Hotline tech support).
 
joegr said:
I think it's understandable that the caliper didn't leak until they put a working master cylinder in that actually applied some pressure to it.
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that is what it sounds like. leaks mean pressure. you're headed in the right direction.
 
LDM said:
I can relate and can understand that it can happen. It's just terrible timing and costly. I bought 3 parts from the dealership and 2 out of 3 were bad. No loaner car, no rental, I am near broke and unemployed, and spent the last 3 days at the hospital.

Hopefully we know what the problem(s) are, and hopefully they are near fixed.

Since I got the car 5 months ago, I thought the brakes sucked and were mushy. That's why I originally put the SS lines on there. Having a bad master cylinder and two stuck rear calipers explains a lot of how my brakes felt... and some shaking caused by brakes not working correctly, and probably pushing on the rear rotors constantly & incorrectly etc.

Enough of my ranting.

Enjoy your holiday's fellow LS LVC'rs. I will, as they just saved my Mom's life. Got to look at the good side of things.
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Sorry for all of your troubles, hope you get it sorted out soon. Wish I was closer, I would have helped with the work (not that I am a master tech but my labor would have been free:)
 
You should demand to get a loaner. If not that, should ask for a rental.
 
I called the dealership at 7:15AM this morning to ensure they order the replacement rear caliper and get to work on my cars brakes early in the day. The had to order the part, they didn't get it until late this afternoon, parts are on, brakes have been bled. They ran out of time to test drive it. They said it still has a mushy pedal, and hoping a test drive on the road will get it feeling better, but it won't be until tomorrow in the AM. Everyone has now gone home today. Nothing to do but hope all is working correctly tomorrow. Tomorrow will be 7 business days later, 10 total days for brakes.
 
Which Motorcraft Master Cylinder would my car need?
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocat...l=LS&year=2002&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

One has IVD and the other does not.
IVD: Interactive Vehicle Dynamics System. Also Known As Stability Control.

RockAuto $174:
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRMC14
Traction Control; w/o Advance Trac

RockAuto $403
MOTORCRAFT Part # BRMC15
Traction Control; w/ Advance Trac

Edit: Nevermind, I see RockAuto calls it AdvanceTrac... and that was my original error msg.
So I would need a Motorcraft BRMC15 (if I needed to replace the A1 Cardone MC again a third time).

$321 on AutoPartsTomorrow for a New BRMC15 (Free Shipping, 1 day delivery)
$293 on Amazon for a New BRMC15 (Ships in 1-2 months, Free Shipping)
$355 on TascaParts for a New BRMC15

(Just making notes here for my discussion tomorrow AM with the Lincoln dealership).

I am seeing a lot of complaints and parts failures and poor QA on A1 Cardone parts...
 
Going to get my car now.

They said the ABS brakes do not engage, and they may have never worked while I owned it. To fix that will be a lot more money, possibly needing a HCU (Hydraulic Control Unit)... which isn't even listed in their pricing.

They said the brakes still have a soft pedal feel, but after driving it 3 times today they are starting to feel better.

Hopefully the new Porterfield R4-S Brake Pads with new R1Concepts Slotted Rotors will bed in (I'll do that, 8 near stops pretty hard from 60-10 mph), and then I hope they will get better with time.

I had read the pads work better when hotter... which may be what the dealership is feeling now driving it cold (and new pads with new rotors will have to break in together somewhat anyway).

So 4 new pads, 4 new rotors, 4 SS brake lines, 2 new rear calipers, new master cylinder, new brake fluid.
 
LDM said:
They said the brakes still have a soft pedal feel, but after driving it 3 times today they are starting to feel better.
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well if the old master cylinder was going out, the pedal might be softer now because master cylinder is now working and applying boost..
 
Pedal brake feel is about the same to me. I was hoping for more solid/harder brake pedel feel and hoping it would engage quicker/travel less during pedal pressure. It stops the car, so that will have to be acceptable for me. Might just be how these LS's are...

No more shaking going down the road without applying brakes!
No more pulsing/brake shake during stops!

I have only driven it 20 miles so far, under normal conditions.

Going out now to bed in the brakes and then let it sit overnight (leaving the emergency brake off).

I'll see how they are tomorrow and in the future after bedding them in tonight, and see how they perform when under heavy load after getting the Porterfield pads hotter.

So far I am happy with no shake during driving, and no shake during stopping.
That is an improvement in itself.
 
LDM said:
Pedal brake feel is about the same to me. I was hoping for more solid/harder brake pedel feel and hoping it would engage quicker/travel less during pedal pressure. It stops the car, so that will have to be acceptable for me. Might just be how these LS's are...

No more shaking going down the road without applying brakes!
No more pulsing/brake shake during stops!

I have only driven it 20 miles so far, under normal conditions.

Going out now to bed in the brakes and then let it sit overnight (leaving the emergency brake off).

I'll see how they are tomorrow and in the future after bedding them in tonight, and see how they perform when under heavy load after getting the Porterfield pads hotter.

So far I am happy with no shake during driving, and no shake during stopping.
That is an improvement in itself.
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Thats good to hear so far I know when i replaced my rear brakes using the proper tools and all the brake peddle felt very soft so I bleed them again and shortly after my master cylinder failed....replaced bleed again and now its back to normal, Good luck and trust me its aggravating but when its done and working properly again you fall in love again :D
 
LDM said:
I had read the pads work better when hotter... which may be what the dealership is feeling now driving it cold (and new pads with new rotors will have to break in together somewhat anyway).
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That is the "problem" with the Porterfields. Their initial bite is quite disheartening. You think they will never grip then all of a sudden (as they heat up) they grab like you hit a wall. That is why I quit using them.

Also, something odd. I had a very noisy right front caliper. It sounded like a cable grating in it's housing. No matter how much I lubed the metal contact points the sound wouldn't go away. I decided to just replace both front calipers and I now have a firmer pedal feel than I ever did; even with the SS lines!
 
LS4me said:
That is the "problem" with the Porterfields. Their initial bite is quite disheartening. You think they will never grip then all of a sudden (as they heat up) they grab like you hit a wall. That is why I quit using them.

Also, something odd. I had a very noisy right front caliper. It sounded like a cable grating in it's housing. No matter how much I lubed the metal contact points the sound wouldn't go away. I decided to just replace both front calipers and I now have a firmer pedal feel than I ever did; even with the SS lines!
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Hmmm funny you say that im getting a noise on mine as well same side I lube the metal contacts and and not long after i get the same noise!
 
Thing with street ceramics is that initial bite simply sucks. They also need heat to perform fully.
 
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