How is every one doing? I hope all is well. I have some questions. I am currently researching all Royal Purple products and reading reviews on their fluids. I use their Oil already but I want to change my Power Steering, Transmission, and Differential Fluids SOON. My question is in my Manual it states the Rear axle uses 75W-140 but what about the front? Also how much of the Power Steering fluid do I need to buy? And I know Royal Purple doesn't carry brake fluid but I bought 'Motul' now how much fluid do I need to fill the Brake container? Thanks for the information.
Fluid Changes
- Thread starter nortyhat
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
????????????? You do realize that this is a RWD, not 4WD or AWD? There's no differential in the front...
Zero, that's how much. Please don't put power steering fluid of any brand in the LS power steering. Your manual should clearly tell you that Mercon ATF (now Mercon V ATF) is the only fluid to put into the power steering.
What do you have (besides marketing from these companies) that says these aftermarket fluids are any better than the ones that are supposed to be used?
Just use any reasonable brand of DOT 3/4 brake fluid. You'll have to bleed all four brakes. Just bleed until fresh fluid starts coming out (keep topping off the master cylinder reservoir).
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
You use Royal Purple engine oil and you haven't blown the engine up yet? How many miles? If more than 1000 miles without oiling system problems you're the first I've ever heard of that made it that far. Personally I wouldn't use Royal Purple oil in my James Bond road slicking system. It would probably give the evil agents phenomenal traction and allow them to overtake my Bondmobile. My own preference for engine oil is Quaker State, or Mobil 1. I know there are folks that don't like QS but my dad's used it for some 60 years now, and I've been using it for over 30 years with no oiling problems. Had some engines go well over 300K miles with no failure.
On the brake fluid, it's all pretty much the same brand-wise. Used to use some German brand for no other reason than it was a pleasing cobalt blue color, which would more clearly show braking system leaks but I've not been able to find that stuff for years. I would recommend using DOT4, as it's compatible with any DOT3 system. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3, so it has more fade resistance. Don't use DOT5, it's silicone based and is not hygroscopic. Plus, it will attack any noncompatible seals in the braking system.
On the brake fluid, it's all pretty much the same brand-wise. Used to use some German brand for no other reason than it was a pleasing cobalt blue color, which would more clearly show braking system leaks but I've not been able to find that stuff for years. I would recommend using DOT4, as it's compatible with any DOT3 system. DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3, so it has more fade resistance. Don't use DOT5, it's silicone based and is not hygroscopic. Plus, it will attack any noncompatible seals in the braking system.
I had Royal Purple in my 2000 for about 150K miles using 10K-12K intervals. I've used Mobil1 Extended Performance (again, 10K-12K interval) for the rest of the time.
So I guess I'm the first........
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
that's the silliest thing I've ever heard...
I know a lot of guys with cars running it without problem for well in the 10's of thousands of miles, a couple of them have been running it for near 100k miles. every one of them hammers on their cars like it owes them money.
I find it kind of hard to believe an oil company would still be in business this long if every single motor that ran on them blew up under a thousand miles would still be in business.
RigsLS
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Owner Manuals are downloadable from the Tech Article section visible in the top navigation menu of this forum.
PDF format, download and self-help yourself, no sense sitting here asking how many quarts every other post
... so far no one here has a clue what GEN/YEAR your LS is. (and it does matter)
GL
PDF format, download and self-help yourself, no sense sitting here asking how many quarts every other post
... so far no one here has a clue what GEN/YEAR your LS is. (and it does matter)
GL
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Nevertheless... Generally don't hear about people having oil problems with other oils. Have heard plenty from RP from people I know. Still, if you want to use it, knock yourself out. Good luck with it.
Deaconblue
Well-Known LVC Member
That was Ate Super Blue Racing. It was a very good DOT 4 fluid that because of it's blue color was finally outlawed in the US. I used it in all my street and track cars. I still have a can out in the garage.
http://hooniverse.com/2013/08/16/braking-news-ate-super-blue-deemed-illegal-for-us-distribution/
Their Typ 200 is the same fluid, but only colored amber.
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
One other recommendation...
Before you start bleeding, empty out the master cylinder and then refill with fresh fluid. Then start your brake bleed, topping up as needed. NEVER let the fluid get too low and suck air into the system, then you have to start over.
I use a Mity Vac, vacuum pump to drain the master, but I suppose a bulb type "sucker" would work.
Doing this first means you are bleeding clean fluid into the wheel cyliders and not just more dirty fluid. Bleed till clean comes out the other end.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Before you start bleeding, empty out the master cylinder and then refill with fresh fluid. Then start your brake bleed, topping up as needed. NEVER let the fluid get too low and suck air into the system, then you have to start over.
I use a Mity Vac, vacuum pump to drain the master, but I suppose a bulb type "sucker" would work.
Doing this first means you are bleeding clean fluid into the wheel cyliders and not just more dirty fluid. Bleed till clean comes out the other end.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks! I'd always wondered about that. I'd always bought it from this one shop for years, then one day they no longer had it and acted like they'd never heard of it. I wasn't a regular there because it was a German parts import shop and all I ever bought there was brake fluid, but you'd think they would have said why they were no longer selling it.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
well living 5 miles from a drag strip, I have seen motors blow up running just about every kind of oil you can think of... doesn't make it the oils fault.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
exactly how i did it, used a $3 dollar turkey baster to suck it all out, then threw it away and topped her off with fresh fluid before bleeding!
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
exactly how i did it, used a $3 dollar turkey baster to suck it all out, then threw it away and topped her off with fresh fluid before bleeding!
RigsLS
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~
MERCON Shots anyone ?
Changed some fluids last night.
Left to Right,
1) Fresh new Motorcraft MERCON V ATF
2) Used Hydraulic Cooling Fan Fluid
3) Used Power Steering Fluid
Handy Dandy Homemade Turkey Baster suction extension.
You'll need it to turn the corner around the level floats on both reservoirs.
Power Steering has a handy little filtering screen that will have to come out
Loosen two side clips and pull it out so the suction extension can reach the bottom.
There are floats in both reservoirs which will require some navigating around to get all the fluids out.
Refill with fresh MERCON V ATF and recheck levels, run the LS and crank AC to activate the Hydraulic fan motor.
Double checked all other fluids and oils, topped up the washer and Brake fluid some.
All systems GO ~ clear for take off, Fun Fun Fun ...
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Drag racing is a little bit different than the daily drivers I speak of. While I don't live too far from a drag strip I don't hang out at it or with drag racers in general.