Flushed coolant, no more false overheating and I now have heat!

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P Rock

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After researching everything that could cause my car to "think" it's overheating and having no heat at all, I decided to go the cheapest route first and flush out the coolant system to get rid of air pockets in the coolant system. I spent $40 for this and it fixed my problems! So if anyone has these same symptoms, before you spend the big bucks on a temp sensor (my check engine light came on and this was the code given) or thermostat, try this cheap remedy.

My question is, is there anything I can do to prevent air pockets in my coolant system for the future? I've read that some people who's done this have had the problem come back.

Now it's time to take care of the bad coils in #1 and #6 (leaky valve cover gaskets) and she'll be as good as new.
 
I haven't even looked at the ls cooling system, but on the volvo I squeeze the rubber lines repetatively hard as hell when adding coolant.
Eamonn
 
I have had to bleed the air out of my system twice in the past year. Ist time was false overheating and the 2nd time was false overheating and no heat.
 
No heat is an indication of either an air lock at the heater core or not enough coolant in the system to get to the heater core. Many times on many different cars I've had to pull the outlet line loose on the heater core to burp the air out of it in order to flow water through it.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
No heat is an indication of either an air lock at the heater core or not enough coolant in the system to get to the heater core. Many times on many different cars I've had to pull the outlet line loose on the heater core to burp the air out of it in order to flow water through it.
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Have you had to do it to your LS? If so, where is this "outlet line" located. This may save alot of people headaches and money in the future. Thanks for the input everyone.
 
just wondering. you said "false" overheating. If the coolant isn't flowing due to trapped air wouldn't this be real ACTUAL overheating??? Just a thought....
 
beaups said:
just wondering. you said "false" overheating. If the coolant isn't flowing due to trapped air wouldn't this be real ACTUAL overheating??? Just a thought....
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The car isn't actually overheating because I'd blast the heater and the temp gauge would literally shoot right back to normal. I could also pull over, shut the car down, turn it right back on and it would read normal. If it was really overheating, there's no way the temp needle would go down that fast with thos procedures.
 
where then do you suppose the gauge is getting it's reading from??? remember if all things are working and there's no coolant flow reintroducing flow of cold coolant into the system "could" actually drop the temp that fast. just a thought.
 
I do not know for sure on the LS, I suppose the link the other guy mentioned would tell you.

Most newer cars have a bleed screw, usually on or near the thermostat housing. Hope the LS has one. You get the engine warm enough to crack open the Tstat and then you open the bleeder. If you have air, it will bubble out along with some coolant. Once the air is gone, only coolant will squirt out. Of course be careful of hot water, and never do this when the engine is up at operating temp, you just want it a bit more than luke warm.

Also you should keep the coolant up to the mark and check it each day for a week or so after any maintenance on the cooling system. The bubbles eventually work their way out(You hope) to the overflow tank and lower the level.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson
 
P Rock said:
Have you had to do it to your LS? If so, where is this "outlet line" located. This may save alot of people headaches and money in the future. Thanks for the input everyone.
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No...I've never had to burp the heater core on an LS. Many others though. But some of the fittings they use on this car may prohibit that practice too. I would have to go look and see if it would work.
 
hey guys cooling problem

I have a 2000 3.9 LS and I had no heat so I read on the link that quick LS gave out and followed the steps but still no heat.

When I opened the bleeder valve nothing came out even when I removed the screw completely.

Can anyone please help me....!:confused:
 
when you say no coolant comes out the bleeder valve.....

what is the coolant level in the cooling tower?
what is the coolant level in the degas bottle?
 
when you say no coolant comes out the bleeder valve.....

what is the coolant level in the cooling tower?

well the cooling tower. I make sure it's full then put the cap back on.


what is the coolant level in the degas bottle?

The bottle i make sure it's at the max cold range.

Thanks for the reply!
 
is the coolant disappearing at all from the degas bottle or the cooling tower?

- you may have a air bubble lock - or - the themostat is not opening - or - you are not building enough pressure.
 
is the coolant disappearing at all from the degas bottle or the cooling tower?

No not really, it seems like there are bubbles comming from the return cooling tower to the degas bottle.

- you may have a air bubble lock

how would i get a air bubble lock out?

I checked all the hoses going to the heater core are hot.

- the themostat is not opening -

Im not sure, if the thermostat would not open i think it would overheat and it does not over heat. The temp gadge stayes half way in range.

- you are not building enough pressure.

How would i check this..?

I opened my degas tank and it does not have that much pressure, where could i loose pressure...
 
There is a secondary electric pump that routes the coolant through the heater core - #1 on the diagram.

The water pump mainly deals with the coolant through the block and rad.

Maybe a fuse or relay?

Relay 05 — Auxiliary Coolant Pump (V8)

image001.gif


Picture1.gif
 
Hells bells Quik! I didn't realize they had the additional pump! That opens up a whole new door to the no heat issues!
 
yep - very complicated system.....

the pump is actually #21 on the diagram - it pulls a small amount of coolant from the engine side of the thermostat.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like the heater system may be totally isolated from the regular engine cooling system. In other words, if that heater pump fails, you would not get coolant to the heater core.
 
Hey Quick LS

Well not so lucky I tried the relay it was ok then went through the process again to fill the coolant.

This time coolant came out of the bleeder valve until a steady flow; I then close the bleeder valve thinking there would be hot air but no hot air.

Do you have any other ideas of what it could be.

Thanks
 
razzi123 said:
Hey Quick LS

Well not so lucky I tried the relay it was ok then went through the process again to fill the coolant.

This time coolant came out of the bleeder valve until a steady flow; I then close the bleeder valve thinking there would be hot air but no hot air.

Do you have any other ideas of what it could be.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Please look at the last few posts between Quik and myself. The heater system is separate from the engine cooling.
 
I have a question guy’s

I checked the relay #5 it seemed good tried another relay still nothing.

I then took the test light checked the power where the relay #5 sits and there is power.

I then took the clip off the coolant pump witch is #1 in the diagram and no power to the pump with key on or motor running. There should be power going to the coolant pump right?

So I took my owners manual and checked the fuses or other relays and there does not seem to be any other, would anyone know if there is another fuse or relay for the coolant pump, or if not I’ll have to trace the wires and that would suck big time.


Thanks,
 
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