Found the front end noise and vibration problem. :(

LaserSVT

LaserSVT

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The car reciently has developed a vibration (very minor) at 65-70 MPH but goes away at higher or lower speeds. Its been a year and 30K miles since my last alignment and around that time is when the whole front end got new bushings. Car used to have a clunk when hiting bumps that went away when I tightened the front lower controll arm bushings. Took two huge wrenches and allot of strength to get the slop out but the car responded better and the clunk went away. Well the clunk came back so I just jacked up the car and was shocked to see the lower controll arm bushings!:( Looks like the washer pushed through the bushings and they are all eaten up. This is not a job I will do on the ground as the wrenches are too big and the torque needed is too great. Gonna have to see my buddy and use his lift.


I think my problem with breaking these suspension components is I drive fast through corners. Its all back country roads around me and I know them like the back of my hand. I push the car hard through the turns and I think thats whats tearing it up. I guess before I add more power I need to do all the chasis and suspension bracing first so I stop tearing her up. I really love my Mark and dont wana abuse her.


Just to make sure, these are the lower controll arm bushings right?
IMGP0082.gif

IMGP0083.gif
 
Ouch... yeah im in the same boat as you. My car needs every possible moving part on the front end replaced. I can grab my wheel on the drivers side and rock it back and forth A LOT.... yeah bad news.
 
Strut rod bushings, will make a huge difference when replaced.
I did mine oem, but moog has the poly version.
David
 
STRUT ROD!! Thanks, I knew it wasnt a lower controll arm but could not remember what it was called.
That brace that blocks the nut can be removed so i can use air tools right? That way mabey I can just do it in my garrage. Well, thats if my Ingrosoll has the power for it.


Should the car be on its tires before I tighten them up or can it be in the air? It looks like that may have been a problem cause I tightened them with the suspension drooping.
 
well that's half of it. that kit just does the strut arm to frame side for both sides. You also need the "to arm" kit. You need the K8680 to finish the job
 
rayner601 said:
well that's half of it. that kit just does the strut arm to frame side for both sides. You also need the "to arm" kit. You need the K8680 to finish the job
Click to expand...

Yeah, I just checked them and they show no signs of wear. I also just checked everything else while I was under there. All the baal joints and other bushings are fine. The rear shock bushings were put on too tight and have buldged out and cracked. They are not ripped apart though so I will just change them when I do the new struts/shocks.

It seems I will have to remove that brace then remove the outer nut. After that it looks like I have to take the nut off the strut end and then slack the rear nut (frame side) to get the rod out to pull the rear part of the bushing.
I guess I have to just count the threads on the rear nut to rod so I can get it close enough to bring to the alignment shop after re-assembly.

Does that sound right?
 
You should really read your shop manual, because although they needs some torque on them it sounds like you went way overboard, and caused the ferrel to cut thru the bushing. Also you are changing the whole alignment of the front end if you move the inner nut to far.
 
LaserSVT said:
The car reciently has developed a vibration (very minor) at 65-70 MPH but goes away at higher or lower speeds. Its been a year and 30K miles since my last alignment and around that time is when the whole front end got new bushings. Car used to have a clunk when hiting bumps that went away when I tightened the front lower controll arm bushings. Took two huge wrenches and allot of strength to get the slop out but the car responded better and the clunk went away. Well the clunk came back so I just jacked up the car and was shocked to see the lower controll arm bushings!:( Looks like the washer pushed through the bushings and they are all eaten up. This is not a job I will do on the ground as the wrenches are too big and the torque needed is too great. Gonna have to see my buddy and use his lift.


I think my problem with breaking these suspension components is I drive fast through corners. Its all back country roads around me and I know them like the back of my hand. I push the car hard through the turns and I think thats whats tearing it up. I guess before I add more power I need to do all the chasis and suspension bracing first so I stop tearing her up. I really love my Mark and dont wana abuse her.


Just to make sure, these are the lower controll arm bushings right?
IMGP0082.gif

IMGP0083.gif
Click to expand...

Me three with the same issues for 3 months knock on wood,I'm just afraid if i start replacing the LCA's and the Strut Rod Bushings and who knows what else needs to be replaced.
 
mine has the same problem, i was on the highway the other day and it was shaking like crazy, when I got home I can move the front wheels back and forth pretty easy, so while I have the air suspension apart I am just going to redo all of that stuff..
 
OK then VERY IMPORTANT!! Should I get the poly ones from Moog or get the OEM ones again? I am gonna order them by Wed. and at the same time I am ordering some Tokico Illuminas and the front suspension braces that SCP sells.
If Geno sold them I would order them from him cause he seems like a knowledgeable dude.

But I need to know if I gotta order the OEM ones or just go to O'Reilly and get the Moogs.
 
Really? I was hoping to firm all that stuff up. :( The suspension brace should help and down the road as funds permit I will get the engine cradle brace as well then focus on the rear braces.

Some more input is cool from others. Wana see if thats the general consensus is.
 
kustomizingkid said:
OEM Strut Rod Bushings....
Click to expand...

LOL..... I would get OEM Strut Rod Bushings from max.
If you have to replace LCA I would get them from rock auto.
Get thunderbird LCAs same as Mark but without the Lincoln tax.

Check out the whole front end....if you find slop on top replace lcas and the Upper control arm.
The car will drive like new.
 
The previous owner replaced the front upper controll arms before I bought it. The lowers appear to be in great shape, not the slightest sign of wear.
I grab the wheel from behind and try to shake it but the only part that moves (and its a miniscule ammount) is the strut rod.
The washer is in the bushing now though. The washer is there but sliped back through. If you look at the nut you can see the washer there. Guess I just tightened them too far. They were in great shape before I tightened them just a tad loose. Its been a couple thousand miles since I have done it so I guess it finnaly wore through. The rear bushing on the strut rod (to chasis) is in perfect shape, only the front most one is dammaged.

Here are some pics of the other bushings. Do they look alright?
UCA
UCA.gif


Rear of strut rod
Strutrod.gif



LCA
LCA2.gif

LCA.gif
 
i have new in the box never used strut rod bushing to frame and control arm side i will let go for 50 plus shipping.... if anyone wants?
 
Thats a good deal! I dont need the LCA side though. I think I am driving to Dallas tomorrow too.
 
chickenviii said:
your also missing the big washer thats why the nut is pulled so far into the rubber
Click to expand...

I was wondering when someone was going to point that out. Its the first thing I saw! The bushing were installed wrong when replaced, hence the failure. :(
 
unity said:
I was wondering when someone was going to point that out. Its the first thing I saw! The bushing were installed wrong when replaced, hence the failure. :(
Click to expand...

They were installed backwards in the front wernt they? I always wondered that when I first saw them.
 
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