Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
You might have covered it already but.... is the air ride switch on?
Franks 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC
- Thread starter FrankAZ
- Start date
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
I wish it was a simple as the air ride switch! I think I'll pop the wheel and fender liner today, and just yank out the compressor and bench test it.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Also, any of the wires slices in the passenger side kick?
ford nut
Local nut case
Best thing to do, plus pull off kick panel on passenger side and make sure PO didn't get happy with a wire cutter.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
I also reconnected the wire to the message center to check last night - so that came up right (and threw an error) - really kicking myself for not digging further on Saturday when I had the car on the lift.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Could be worse, at least you don't have to worry about tearing it back apart in obnoxiously cold weather.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Well, after managing to get 4 solenoids on the car, and starting the self test again, can hear all solenoids click, but, no compressor. Since I'd removed the air silencer, I was able to simply remove the filter and go down from the top.
I finally broke down and simply tapped the compressor wire, and applied 12v to the compressor, so, the compressor runs, but, not from the system itself.
The relay appears to be connected properly as far as connectors go based on feeling them, but, wasn't able to see if power came into the relay. I think I'm at a point to determine what they did to stop the compressor from running (or maybe its simply a failed relay.)
I finally broke down and simply tapped the compressor wire, and applied 12v to the compressor, so, the compressor runs, but, not from the system itself.
The relay appears to be connected properly as far as connectors go based on feeling them, but, wasn't able to see if power came into the relay. I think I'm at a point to determine what they did to stop the compressor from running (or maybe its simply a failed relay.)
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Time to switch the abs relay with the air comp relay.
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
Did you do a swap with the ABS relay just to rule it out?
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
...........
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
I only did that power test last night - I'll do the ABS or thermactor relay on Friday to test when I can easily get the car onto a lift to work with it. Since I live in a condo I have to either use a gravel driveway or rent lift time (lift time is $15/hr then 10 each additional hr)
If it is truly the relay, I'll probably steal the one from the thermactor since I'm getting a P0411 anyways (hasn't been troubleshooted other than verifying airflow from pump - low priority since I have a year before emissions check via OBD)
If it is truly the relay, I'll probably steal the one from the thermactor since I'm getting a P0411 anyways (hasn't been troubleshooted other than verifying airflow from pump - low priority since I have a year before emissions check via OBD)
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
The only other relay in the car that will work with the compressor comes from the abs system.
It is located by the inj pump so maybe that's what you're getting at...
chargerxr
Dedicated LVC Member
There are actually 3 relays that are the same on 96 thru 98. Air suspension compressor, abs, and air pump or smog pump, whatever you prefer to call it.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Going for attempt #1 at the air ride install tomorrow, and attempt #2 with the O2 sensors. Been spraying power blaster on the O2 sensors, so, hopefully they'll move a bit easier this time.
Have nearly all of my components for the alarm install. This one is going to be a "joy" with the sheer amount of wires.
Alarm Brain, two window module, single window module, pats bypass module (more keys arriving on either tomorrow or Saturday) and still awaiting the glass break sensor.
Have nearly all of my components for the alarm install. This one is going to be a "joy" with the sheer amount of wires.
Alarm Brain, two window module, single window module, pats bypass module (more keys arriving on either tomorrow or Saturday) and still awaiting the glass break sensor.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
No major work done this weekend, just took it easy instead. Spent quite a bit of time mapping out wiring for the remote start install. I'll probably get a document together on the wires themselves, as I've mapped out each area for power tapping, etc based on the Ford EVTM, and I've tried to tap as much at the SCIL module as I could to also keep wiring as clean as possible.
Still not 100% sure where the modules are going to end up going, as that'll wait till I get to the install itself and find places to put them.
Still not 100% sure where the modules are going to end up going, as that'll wait till I get to the install itself and find places to put them.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
I always leave alarms and tint to the professionals.
You are one determined individual.
You are one determined individual.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
I always leave alarms and tint to the professionals.
You are one determined individual.
After a "pro" install of the last one - ill do my own on this one.
Tint I do leave for the pro (I will remove my old myself though)
I'm a computer person by trade, artist by degree but have dabbled in electronics and circuit design. I used to have a 150,000 light Christmas light display, and ran on home designed circuit boards using microprocessors and solid state relays, so I have a decent electronics knowledge. I'm also pretty much willing to tackle anything.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Been working away at the wiring diagram, and its starting to look good. Here's a bit of a preview of what it'll be looking like!
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector Car Wire Color Location Connector Pin
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT Yellow and Light Green/Purple Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND Apply to Ground
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay Remove, not going to be used.
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT Brown SCIL Module C289 Pin 11
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Attach to Window Modules
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Apply to Ground, Automatic Transmission
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT Save for Now
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT Dark Green/Purple SCIL Module C286 Pin 5
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Orange/Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 26
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) Remove, not going to be used.
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT Yellow/Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 12
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Connect to 556U
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT Black/Light Blue SCIL Module C287
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT Window Module Roll Down
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT Sunroof Module Open Run wires up passenger A Pillar
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT Save for Now
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 19
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) Red/Light Blue SCIL Module C286 Pin 4
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) White/Yellow SCIL Module C286 Pin 14
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT White/Pink or White/Red ECM Module - right of the parking brake
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT White/Yellow (Ignition 1) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 2
H3/2 RED/WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Light Green/Purple (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Brown/Orange (Accessory for AC) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 9
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) Red/Black Ignition Harness C285 Pin 6
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) Remove from Harness
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Light Green/Purple (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) Green/Yellow (Ignition 2) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 10
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) Remove from Harness
H3/9 RED/BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Yellow (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 1
H3/10 NC No Connection
Relays to Use
Stereo Power Black/Pink Radio Harness C257
Stereo +12v Black/Light Green Delayed Power Relay 1 C2000 Pin 30
Ignition 3 Black/Yellow Ignition Harness C285 Pin 5
Ignition 3 +12v Yellow Ignition Harness C285 Pin 1
Dome Light supervision Black/White SCIL Module C288 Pin 20
Dome Light Supervision +12v
Puddle Lamps Purple / Light Green SCIL Module C289 Pin 9
Aux 1 Window Vent/Rolldown
Aux 2 Sunroof Vent/Rolldown
Aux 3 Stereo
Aux 4 Save for now
Power Windows / Sunroof Power White/Yellow Delayed Power Relay 2 C2001 Pin 30
Power Locks
3 Pin Harness Alarm Brain
Door Lock Power (Purple) Dark Green/Purple Drivers Kick Panel
Lock (Green/Black) Pink/Yellow Drivers Kick Panel
Unlock (Blue) Pink/Light Green Drivers Kick Panel
Alarm Components
Viper 5704v Alarm Brain + Remote Start + 4 aux channels
Directed 556UW Remote Start PATS bypass module
Directed 506T Audio / Glass Break Sensor
Directed 529T Single Window Rollup/down Module (to use with the sunroof)
Directed 535T Two Window Rollup/down Module (for front windows)
Directed 451M Allow triggering of the door locks.
5 pack of bosch style relays, one
Optional: DEI bitwriter - alows to easily program the alarms features.
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector Car Wire Color Location Connector Pin
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT Yellow and Light Green/Purple Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND Apply to Ground
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay Remove, not going to be used.
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT Brown SCIL Module C289 Pin 11
H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Attach to Window Modules
H2 Harness, 24-pin connector
H2/1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Apply to Ground, Automatic Transmission
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT Save for Now
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT Dark Green/Purple SCIL Module C286 Pin 5
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT Orange/Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 26
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) Remove, not going to be used.
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT Yellow/Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 12
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Connect to 556U
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT Goes to Output Relay - See Below for Relays
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT Black/Light Blue SCIL Module C287
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT Window Module Roll Down
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT Sunroof Module Open Run wires up passenger A Pillar
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT Save for Now
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Light Green SCIL Module C288 Pin 19
H2/17 GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C OR N/O) Red/Light Blue SCIL Module C286 Pin 4
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/19 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O) White/Yellow SCIL Module C286 Pin 14
H2/20 GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT White/Pink or White/Red ECM Module - right of the parking brake
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT Remove, not going to be used.
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT White/Yellow (Ignition 1) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 2
H3/2 RED/WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Light Green/Purple (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Brown/Orange (Accessory for AC) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 9
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) Red/Black Ignition Harness C285 Pin 6
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) Remove from Harness
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Light Green/Purple (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 7
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) Green/Yellow (Ignition 2) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 10
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT (key side of ign, acc or starter wire if needed) Remove from Harness
H3/9 RED/BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) Yellow (+12v) Ignition Harness C285 Pin 1
H3/10 NC No Connection
Relays to Use
Stereo Power Black/Pink Radio Harness C257
Stereo +12v Black/Light Green Delayed Power Relay 1 C2000 Pin 30
Ignition 3 Black/Yellow Ignition Harness C285 Pin 5
Ignition 3 +12v Yellow Ignition Harness C285 Pin 1
Dome Light supervision Black/White SCIL Module C288 Pin 20
Dome Light Supervision +12v
Puddle Lamps Purple / Light Green SCIL Module C289 Pin 9
Aux 1 Window Vent/Rolldown
Aux 2 Sunroof Vent/Rolldown
Aux 3 Stereo
Aux 4 Save for now
Power Windows / Sunroof Power White/Yellow Delayed Power Relay 2 C2001 Pin 30
Power Locks
3 Pin Harness Alarm Brain
Door Lock Power (Purple) Dark Green/Purple Drivers Kick Panel
Lock (Green/Black) Pink/Yellow Drivers Kick Panel
Unlock (Blue) Pink/Light Green Drivers Kick Panel
Alarm Components
Viper 5704v Alarm Brain + Remote Start + 4 aux channels
Directed 556UW Remote Start PATS bypass module
Directed 506T Audio / Glass Break Sensor
Directed 529T Single Window Rollup/down Module (to use with the sunroof)
Directed 535T Two Window Rollup/down Module (for front windows)
Directed 451M Allow triggering of the door locks.
5 pack of bosch style relays, one
Optional: DEI bitwriter - alows to easily program the alarms features.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Every once in a while I get really lucky at the local Pick N Pull! Also pulled the ABS relay out, so, I should be good to go!
The air suspension on the Mark vented when I pulled out the first line. From what I could tell, it looked like both front bags had been replaced at one time, along with the compressor. The rear bags appeared original. I would have taken the time to grab the bags, but, there was some surface crazing on one, but, they were still holding air!
Since there was still air in the system, I've put tape over the dryer until I get it all installed.
Overall the Mark was pretty rough though, almost grabbed the coolant crossover tube, but, decided it just wasn't worth it (as I needed to pull springs + shocks from a tBird so I can pull the Koni's out)
Yes, thats the trunk lid.
The air suspension on the Mark vented when I pulled out the first line. From what I could tell, it looked like both front bags had been replaced at one time, along with the compressor. The rear bags appeared original. I would have taken the time to grab the bags, but, there was some surface crazing on one, but, they were still holding air!
Since there was still air in the system, I've put tape over the dryer until I get it all installed.
Overall the Mark was pretty rough though, almost grabbed the coolant crossover tube, but, decided it just wasn't worth it (as I needed to pull springs + shocks from a tBird so I can pull the Koni's out)
Yes, thats the trunk lid.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
No car work today, much more prep work. Got most of the speaker adapter plates made, including plates for the tweeters. Fronts are components, with two ways for the rear, so block off plates will be used for the old tweeter spots.
Speaker plates were made by using photoshop to merge a 6x8 template and the template for the 6.5" speakers, and then making a few adjustments from there.
Tweeter fills were made by using illustrator to draw out some 3.5" then 3" and finally a 1.75" hole for the tweeter.
The templates were printed out, and then using a glue stick, the paper was glued to the sheet, and it sticks just long enough to cut them out on a scroll saw (and peels clean off when dry.)
New 12 gauge speaker cables will be run, and the dual 14 gauge into each door from the crossovers.
If anyone's interested, I can link up to the PDF files I created.
Gets tough living at a condo, as I can't work on the car here.
Other fun will be getting a 0 gauge wire from the front to the back of the car!
Speaker plates were made by using photoshop to merge a 6x8 template and the template for the 6.5" speakers, and then making a few adjustments from there.
Tweeter fills were made by using illustrator to draw out some 3.5" then 3" and finally a 1.75" hole for the tweeter.
The templates were printed out, and then using a glue stick, the paper was glued to the sheet, and it sticks just long enough to cut them out on a scroll saw (and peels clean off when dry.)
New 12 gauge speaker cables will be run, and the dual 14 gauge into each door from the crossovers.
If anyone's interested, I can link up to the PDF files I created.
Gets tough living at a condo, as I can't work on the car here.
Other fun will be getting a 0 gauge wire from the front to the back of the car!
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Stil trying to figure out when to do the air suspension - even picked up a spare compressor and two relays just in case! I'd like to do it on a lift rather than using jacks and stands.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Lookin' good.
The easiest way is through the steering column shaft grommet on the firewall. I could not for the life of me get anything else to work. Very tight quarters under there. I fit 2awg all the way back with little to no problems.
The easiest way is through the steering column shaft grommet on the firewall. I could not for the life of me get anything else to work. Very tight quarters under there. I fit 2awg all the way back with little to no problems.
NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
You're doing some good work Frank. I'll get with you tomorrow and get you that number I promised.
FrankAZ
Active LVC Member
Busy busy day on the car getting the stereo in.
Adapter ring fitting into the back speakers.
New wiring run though the door boot for the speakers.
Due to space constraints, ended up cutting the factory soundproofing and under carpet mat, and putting the crossover in that space. I did take the top soundproof mat and then gluing it under the crossover to help still provide some noise control.
One of the door speakers, had to end up trimming one of the bottoms of the adapter rings to fit in the door properly.
Tweeter mounted up.
The amps mounted up to the board which is also covered in trunk mat.
This is about the best picture I could get of the amps mounted up. Note *** not all amps can be mounted inverted - mine are safe to mount inverted. *** I'm going to need to use the GoPro to get a final shot of the amps mounted up.
The power blocks are only temporary - due to a lazy slow shipping eBay seller, the proper fuse blocks will be here tomorrow.
Main power wire (0 gauge welding wire) mounted up and installed. I did manage to get it through the grommet that is on the drivers side,
One thing that is very interesting, is I didn't cut, splice, or tap any factory wires - all wires are left in place and taped or zip tied out of the way (using proper harness tape)
I spent 12 hours today getting things in, but, didn't finish up yet - was moving slow, and was being very meticulous on how things were going in, everything was run in factory channels. I need to still get the speakers installed in the drivers side door, and get the power wire into the channel under the drivers side carpet.
Adapter ring fitting into the back speakers.
New wiring run though the door boot for the speakers.
Due to space constraints, ended up cutting the factory soundproofing and under carpet mat, and putting the crossover in that space. I did take the top soundproof mat and then gluing it under the crossover to help still provide some noise control.
One of the door speakers, had to end up trimming one of the bottoms of the adapter rings to fit in the door properly.
Tweeter mounted up.
The amps mounted up to the board which is also covered in trunk mat.
This is about the best picture I could get of the amps mounted up. Note *** not all amps can be mounted inverted - mine are safe to mount inverted. *** I'm going to need to use the GoPro to get a final shot of the amps mounted up.
The power blocks are only temporary - due to a lazy slow shipping eBay seller, the proper fuse blocks will be here tomorrow.
Main power wire (0 gauge welding wire) mounted up and installed. I did manage to get it through the grommet that is on the drivers side,
One thing that is very interesting, is I didn't cut, splice, or tap any factory wires - all wires are left in place and taped or zip tied out of the way (using proper harness tape)
I spent 12 hours today getting things in, but, didn't finish up yet - was moving slow, and was being very meticulous on how things were going in, everything was run in factory channels. I need to still get the speakers installed in the drivers side door, and get the power wire into the channel under the drivers side carpet.