Front Wheels shake with new brake pads and turned rotors when applying brakes?

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turn_on68

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Front Wheels shake with new brake pads and turned rotors when applying brakes? I replaced the pads and had the rotors turned a few months ago but havent driven the car any to speak of. Now on faster drives the wheels shake when braking. I was wondering if the Stabilizer links are so worn could it cause this front end to shake when braking?
 
turn_on68 said:
Front Wheels shake with new brake pads and turned rotors when applying brakes? I replaced the pads and had the rotors turned a few months ago but havent driven the car any to speak of. Now on faster drives the wheels shake when braking. I was wondering if the Stabilizer links are so worn could it cause this front end to shake when braking?
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Just go buy some brand new rotors. DONE. Or at least put an indicator on the rotors and check for run out. You might be surprised.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Or take the car to Laser and Sapper in Waco and get it fixed.
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∆∆∆∆∆

This

Rotor probably had warpage cut into it. Happens a lot if you had a parts store do the turn. If it only shakes upon braking, its the rotors
 
+1 on the warpage being turned into the rotor, it happens a lot. Anymore it's almost cheaper and better piece of mind to buy new than to have one turned. When we turn our rotors we only do it with an on vehicle lathe which eliminates the possibility of runout being machined into the rotor. After aligning all the cups and cones on a brake lathe plus the runout that may be in the machine and the runout of the hub, you are bound to have some issues.
 
turn_on68 said:
Front Wheels shake with new brake pads and turned rotors when applying brakes? I replaced the pads and had the rotors turned a few months ago but havent driven the car any to speak of. Now on faster drives the wheels shake when braking. I was wondering if the Stabilizer links are so worn could it cause this front end to shake when braking?
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To be sure the stabilizer links are shot, lots of play in them. I also need to check wheel bearings.
 
When you can get new rotors for $20 a piece I really don't see the logic in turning them anymore unless you have those high performance $200+, vented etc etc rotors.
 
In addition to my previous post I might add..... rotors do not warp it is a commonly used term when it's just flat out wrong. the only way a rotor gains runout is by uneven wear and stacked tolerances being off, or improper machining.
 
Wawful said:
In addition to my previous post I might add..... rotors do not warp it is a commonly used term when it's just flat out wrong. the only way a rotor gains runout is by uneven wear and stacked tolerances being off, or improper machining.
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Go back in the corner
 
Sapperfire said:
Go back in the corner
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I dare you to find a Factory rotor application that has "warped" from heat and not developed runout from uneven wear. It simply doesn't happen... but that is beside the point of the thread, so I digress......
 
How about this situation and I am not saying it is this in the case of this thread.

Said auto has the rotors machined and then installed with new pad. Car is then driven a few miles and brakes are applied numerous times on the first application there was no feel of vibration and then the next two applications of the brake pedal no vibration. Auto is parked until next day after 24 hrs rest and then driven. First application of brakes a slight vibration is felt and then on every application after that the vibration gets worse.

Question is to you is this runout? Because if it is runout I would like to know how that happened to my personal auto as I did machine the rotors and they warped with heat because they were approaching the lower limit of thickness that means crap. The thinner they get the less stable they get to absorb and dissipate the heat generated hence warping.

Do not go back in the corner but look for alternative reasons. I can see machining in runout as it happens all the time.

Sapper, be nice everyone gets to play in the sandbox!!
 
Warping....its just a term.
I believe its more high and low spots being generated form heat being unevenly dispersed.
New rotors are cast thin to save weight, when they are turned true again they are now thinner causing the high and low spots to appear faster.
The heat has no were to go.
As LSC HUNTER pointed out, the shake will come back fast.

Do as Roadboss suggested, spend more money and get a quality rotor.
 
As far as I know these are the original rotors or dealership replacements which means OEM. Auto parts checked and said they had plenty of material left to turn them.
Now I have the new stabilizer links and can anyone tell me what torque setting goes with them please. While I have the car up to do these I will check wheel play.
 
I agree with WAWFUL about warping. My 95, 120K, had the pulsing, shaking, thing. I sanded the rotors with 60 grit emery, then with 340 grit, both sides. I installed Wagner thermo-quiet pads. Had the fluid flushed. It (95) has the best brakes out of my 4 MK's. I think rotors mostly get "glazed" not warped. I have the thermo-quiet pads on 2 cars and find them to be very good. I've been doing my own brakes for over 30 years, and have never replaced a rotor on any of my cars.
 
EBC rotors, UPR series oem replacement...$70 each, delivered, here...best deal you can get...don't turn rotors, imo.....waste of time, waste of money, recycle em

----
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