G-Rell's Go Kart Build

BigRigLS said:
Those puddle underneath, no worries ... just replace all plastic plumbing, use OEM only! Bleed system as per Tech procedure.


BTW: I'm calling shotgun on the 1st outing.
Click to expand...

It was a stock image just to show the back (ours has NO brake light)... although the frame joints seem open (think thats what the water comes from ... saw the same when we picked it up), I'll have to address when we paint


hite337 said:
Really?
Click to expand...

Yeah, its been with that Engine guy since we got it, he's working on it on the side, and stacked with other rebuilds (some cool stuff)... (YOU understand)... Its getting a little long though. I can replace carbs and gaskets... so we may just have to go get it mid job... hate to be THAT GUY.. but it is what it is...

Robot said:
The look on that kids face is ABSOLUTELY priceless!
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I'll post the video ... I think we actually says "what the F***", which as a Dad, is a problem.... but as a video is hilarious!!!

FDR said:
Go with the reverseless taillights, then mount some mosquito-melting light bars for reverse. I'm guessing the outer light rings are meant to be running lights with the inner lights being the dedicated brake lights, given the color of the lenses and the seeming lack of optics on the ring
Click to expand...
Yes, the ringed ones are as you say, although I planned to reverse them so inner was running, and ring as brake... Then I can mount a singe caged as reverse and third brake...

Kumba said:
Unless you plan to add turn signals I would just get one long red bar and put it where the old brake light is at. That way you got lots of visibility in case he ever ends up on a road or being followed.

Otherwise the one with the rock guard. The rounded one just seems out of place to me.

And put a light rack on top so he can just flick a switch and light up everything around him. Then mount a gun rack to the back. And some arms that fold down in front so that way after he's done field dressing it he can just plop it on the fold down rack and take it home. Maybe include a winch on the front in case he gets stuck or can't get the animal out of wherever it collapsed at.
Click to expand...

Probably no signals... wont do on streets (to often)... Maybe use THE BAR as the third brake/reverse... and then two of the others for the sides....hmmm. LED rack lights on the list (and will replace headlights too) Jerry cans for fuel and water will go on back... (winch and dress kit later maybe HAHAHAHAH)
 
Might as well get some 35w HID headlights. Going to be burning about the same wattage with LED or Incandescent so might as well get more light for the same wattage draw.
 
Yes, LEDs should be less power consumption, and much more vibration resistant (might be an important factor here).
 
G-RELL said:
But the LED's are less Amperage correct? thats what I need to be worried about, no?

looking at something like this

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FQ0ROZS...&ascsubtag=2541438cfd38a371cac62d72536f5c9f_S

Upgrading the stator to 11pole, which will help increase amperage (if I understand correctly), help regulate the ac power, and smooth out the 12v signal
Click to expand...

A 35-watt load is the same regardless of LED, HID, or Xenon. Unless you plan to be doing much off-roading in the middle of nowhere with only the moon for ambient lighting, the LED would be fine. They're simple, should hold up to the abuse the best, and a lot less expensive then HID.

Still not as cool as HID :p

If you do plan to do a lot of night riding then two HID headlights would be better. You'll get more light output then LED which means more visible area.
 
There will be some... but nothing crazy... probably a 7" LED bar to replace headlights, 20+ for roof (because that will look awesome), and two more for rock spotting on sides/rears. If the motor cant take the power... I've read car batteries charged overnight will power LEDs for hours... (worst case scenario).
 
Even the little generator coil built into my lawnmower engine could handle that load. (It gets really hot here, so I sometimes mow at night.)
 
joegr said:
Even the little generator coil built into my lawnmower engine could handle that load. (It gets really hot here, so I sometimes mow at night.)
Click to expand...

It's going to be at least 10-15 amps. Your basic riding lawn mower needs at least that much in order to power two headlights and still charge the battery. I'm guessing you got somewhere between 20-30 amps of capacity. There might (should) be a fuse that runs between the charging coil and the battery. This would give you a rough idea of what the stock set-up is designed to output. The safe way to calculate usable load is to leave a 15% margin. So if the fuse is 20-amps then plan on having 16-amps usable. Also keep in mind you'll want to save a couple amps of that for battery charging.
 
G-RELL said:
is there a way to test total system amperage with a multimeter?
Click to expand...

No, you need a watt meter. You've probably seen them, they look like a big clamp-on multi-meter.

You can test the stator voltage output with a regular multi-meter. Put it on AC volts and measure it. The voltage output should be over 14.4v and equal over all the phases.

I'd recommend you try to get a shop manual for the engine if you can. It will save you a lot of guess-work. It probably also tells you the charging output, voltage, wiring, etc.
 
Kumba said:
It's going to be at least 10-15 amps. Your basic riding lawn mower needs at least that much in order to power two headlights and still charge the battery. ...
Click to expand...

Not my little Snapper. It came with no lights at all. I would guess that it is closer to two or three amps. It just has a coil and a diode, no regulator. I added the lights. 25 watts of LED light is a lot of light.
 
Kumba said:
...I'd recommend you try to get a shop manual for the engine if you can. It will save you a lot of guess-work. It probably also tells you the charging output, voltage, wiring, etc.
Click to expand...

Yes, better to find out what it is spec'd for than to measure the peak that you can get out of it. It might be able to provide 20A for a test, but a 20A load might burn it out under the right circumstances. If the manual says 15A, then you should stay below that amount (as an example only).
 
It looks like you take whatever value is in you manual and multiply by 1.45 to get the new spec.
 
no luck

CHARGING SYSTEM
BATTERY
The battery is an important component of the electrical system. This battery used on the vehicle is a maintenance-free
battery. For long period of storage, the battery will discharge by itself, so it should be charged every
3 months. After 2 to 3 years of regular use, the capacity of the battery will diminish so it will need charging.
Should the battery need to be replaced, use the same type of battery.
BATTERY DRAIN TESTING
• Turn the main switch to the “OFF” position.
• Disconnect the negative ground wire from the battery.
• Connect the positive end of the meter with the negative end of the battery.
• Connect the negative end of the meter with the ground wire.
• Test the electric drain. In general, the number should be less than 1 mA. Inspect for a short circuit of the ignition
switch and the main wiring harness.
CHARGING STATUS INSPECTION
• Install a fully charged battery.
• Connect the voltmeter to the battery.
• Remove the fuse, and connect the meter with two ends of the fuse.
• Connect the tachometer with the engine (not necessary if rpm indicator is on vehicle).
• Start the engine and accelerate slowly; measure the charging voltage and current.
Charging voltage (V) 13.5 ~ 15.5 @ 5000 RPM
Charging current (A) 0.5 @ 5000 RPM
If the voltage is not in the range of the above specifi ed value, please inspect the voltage regulator.
BATTERY REMOVAL
• Disconnect the negative battery lead wire fi rst.
• Disconnect the positive battery second.
50
BATTERY INSTALLATION
Apply grease on battery terminals to prevent corrosion.
Connect the positive cable fi rst, then connect the negative cable.
BATTERY VOLTAGE INSPECTION
Disconnect the cable from the battery terminals. First the negative pole, then the positive.
Measure the voltage between the two poles of the battery:
Battery Service Limit:
Fully charged 12.8 V
Needs charging 12.3 V
BATTERY CHARGING
• Remove the battery from the vehicle.
• Connect the positive pole of the charger with the positive pole of the battery.
• Connect the negative pole of the charger with the negative pole of the battery.
• Charge the battery for the charging time indicated on the battery.
• Recheck the voltage after 30 minutes of charging. If it still below 13.1 V continue to charge at 15 minute
intervals, checking voltage levels for the appropriate charge. Continue as needed.
Normal Fast
Charging current 0.7 A / hr. 3.0 A / hr.
Charging time 5 ~ 10 hours 30 minutes
SAFETY Notes:
• Do not use fast charging unless it is an emergency
• Do not smoke or allow open fl ame near battery when charging.
• At the beginning or end of charging, turn off the charger fi rst, in order to prevent electric shock.
GENERATOR ASSEMBLY
The picture below shows the structure of the generator:
51
GENERATOR ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS
1. Cooling fan
2. Generator assembly
3. Flywheel comp.
4. Stator comp.
5. Washer
6. Bolt
7. Nut
8. Bolt
9. Bolt
STATOR INSPECTION
Note: Inspection work can be done on the engine without removing the generator.
• Remove the 4-pin connector of the generator.
• Remove the 2 bullet connectors.
• Measure the resistance value between the wire and engine ground.
White 0.2 ~ 0.4Ω (20º C)
Yellow 0.1 ~ 0.8 Ω
Blue & Yellow 148 Ω
Black & Red 502 Ω
Black ∞
When the measured value is more than the standard value, the coil should be replaced.
52
GENERATOR REMOVAL AND INSPECTION
GENERATOR REMOVAL
•Remove the cooling fan cover bolt and screw.
• Remove the cooling fan cover.
• Remove the cooling fan bolt and remove the cooling fan.
• Hold the fl ywheel and remove the fl ywheel nut.
• Remove the fl ywheel with a fl ywheel puller, and remove the solid key.
• Remove the generator wire connector.
GENERATOR INSTALLATION
Reverse the removal procedure for installation.
• When installing the fl ywheel, make sure there are no metal pieces, such as bolts or nuts, attaching to the inner
wall of the fl ywheel.
• After the installation is fi nished, start the engine and inspect the ignition timing.
53
IGNITION SYSTEM INSPECTION AND SERVICING
The circuit working principle is shown in the picture below.
IGNITION TIME INSPECTION
Note: The CDI ignition system has already been adjusted in the factory, so there is no need to readjust it. If
inspecting ignition function is necessary, take followed steps to inspect ignition timing.
• Remove the ignition timing hole cover (or remove the fan cover).
• Rotate the generator rotor, and align the “F” mark on the rotor with the crankcase timing ignition mark.
• Clip the ignition timing indicator light wire clip on the high-voltage end of the ignition coil.
• Start the engine and keep it in idling condition.
• Observe if the mark on the crankcase aligns with the “F” mark on the rotor.
• Slowly increase the engine rpm to 5000 r/min. At this time the mark on the crankcase aligns with the rotor
ignition advance mark.
54
CDI COMPONENT
The CDI component inspection is divided into two steps:
1. Inspect every wiring, winding or coil connected with CDI
2. Inspect the CDI component.
• Remove the CDI component.
• Inspect the connector.
• Inspect the conduction condition and the resistance value of the main switch, the ignition charging coil, the
trigger winding, and the ignition coil. When the main switch is in “OFF” position, it should be conducted, and
the resistance value of every coil should be the standard value.
• Inspect the resistance value between every CDI component terminal. If the actual value is not in the range of
the value in the chart, then the CDI component is faulty.
CDI Component
(values displayed in KW)
– Negative –
+ POSITIVE +
SW (B / W) EXT (B / R) PC (G / R) E (G or G / W) IGN (B / Y)
SW (B / W) 100 ~ : 50 ~ : 100 ~ : :
EXT (B / R) 0.5 ~ 50 100 ~ : : :
PC (G / R) 10 ~ 1000 10 ~ 1000 1 ~ 100 :
E (G or G / W) 0.5 ~ 50 0.5 ~ 50 1 ~ 10 :
IGN (B / Y) : : : :
B- Black W- White R - Red
G- Green Y - Yellow
IGNITION COIL
IGNITION COIL REMOVAL
• Remove the spark plug cap from the spark plug.
• Remove the primary ignition coil wires.
• Remove the ignition coil bolt from the ignition coil.
55
IGNITION COIL INSTALLATION
•Reverse the removal procedure for installation.
Note: When installing, connect the blue wire from the CDI to the green terminal of the ignition coil, and connect
the black wire to the second terminal.
PRIMARY IGNITION COIL INSPECTION
Standard Value 0.1 ~ 1.0 Ω (20º C)
If the resistance value is -, it indicates the coil is broken and should be replaced.
SECONDARY IGNITION COIL INSPECTION
Install the spark plug cap, and measure the resistance value of the secondary ignition coil.
Standard Value 7 ~ 9Ω (20º C)
The resistance value is in the standard range indicates it is good; however, - indicates the coil is broken.
Remove the spark plug cap, and measure the resistance value of the secondary ignition coil.
Standard Value 2 ~ 4Ω (20º C)
SPARK PLUG – NGK C7HSA
• Clean up the carbon around the spark plug to prevent it from dropping into the cylinder when removing the
spark plug.
• Remove the spark plug.
Note: When installing, connect the black/yellow wire of the primary ignition coil with the black/yellow connector
of CDI, and the green wire with the green connector of CDI.
• Clean up the fi lth and carbon accumulation on the spark plug with a steel brush or a blade.
• Inspect the spark plug gap, in general it should be about:
0.6 ~ 0.7mm 0.024 ~ 0.028 in.
• When the carbon accumulation and wear of the spark plug are too serious, replace the spark plug. Replace
with the spark plug of the same specifi cation.
56
REGULATOR RECTIFIER
MAIN WIRING – SUB ELECTRIC CIRCUIT CONDITION INSPECTION
• Remove the 4-pin connector of the regulate rectifi er.
• Measure the conducting status between the main wiring terminals according to the previous wiring diagram.
To check the wiring harness:
Positive lead on battery + (red wire) – Negative to ground (black wire) Measures battery voltage
Positive lead + (black wire) – Negative to ground Tests Conductivity
Lighting coil + (yellow wire) – Negative to ground
• (remove the resistor and the side auto-starter plug) Generally 0.1 ~ 0.8 �
Charging coil + (the white wire) – Negative to ground Generally 0.2 ~ 2.0 �
To check the regulator rectifi er:
W(White) Y(Yellow) R(Red) G(Green)
W(White) : 3 ~ 100 K :
Y(Yellow) : : 5 ~ 100 K
R(Red) : : :
G(Green) : 5 ~ 100 K :
REGULATOR RECTIFIER INSPECTION
• Inspect the regulator rectifi er connection.
• Measure the resistance value between every regulator rectifi er terminal.
If the resistance value between the terminals does not match the value in the table above, replace the regulator
rectifi er.
RESISTOR
RESISTOR RESISTANCE VALUE MEASUREMENT
Measure the resistance value between the resistor wire and the vehicle body. It is normal when the actual value
is in the range of value marked on the resistor. If the resistance value is out of the range then it needs to be
replaced
 
So, looks like the nominal value is only seven watts as it is, so 10.5 watts after upgrade, or 725 mA only. Surely this must be wrong?
 
joegr said:
So, looks like the nominal value is only seven watts as it is, so 10.5 watts after upgrade, or 725 mA only. Surely this must be wrong?
Click to expand...

I think that's all the current flow that should be going to the battery, not all the load the charging coil can product. In other words, if more then 0.5-amp is flowing to the battery, there is an issue. The 0.7-amp is when you have removed the battery and hooked it to a stand-along wall charger.

Funny how it doesn't say what the actual output of the coil is, just how much should be going to the battery.
 
Some google results for you:

http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-4944.html

Assuming that something I found on the internet is correct, wattage should be roughly as follows:

6-pole : 75w
8-pole : 100w
11-pole : 200w


And heres a recommended wiring diagram for an 11-pole stator on a GY6 engine:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee315/GearAddicts/gy6ign.jpg

The white wire going to the enricher is an optional thing, your engine may or may not have one. The enricher allows extra fuel to be dumped down the engine during starting. Once the engine is running and the white wire is energized, the enricher closes and the extra fuel stops flowing.

You can also use this white wire with a small low control current relay to only have some accessories work when the engine is running despite the key position.

Starter wiring isn't listed but it shouldn't be much of a problem.
 
That sounds right...

so at 200w and 12-14v I should have around 20-25amps to play with (minus running needs)
 
G-RELL said:
That sounds right...

so at 200w and 12-14v I should have around 20-25amps to play with (minus running needs)
Click to expand...

200W at 12V would give you 16.7A minus whatever goes to the battery. At 14V, it would be only 14.3A. If their ratings are done the same way as most car alternators, then it's actually 200W at 15V, so only 13.3A available.
 
joegr said:
200W at 12V would give you 16.7A minus whatever goes to the battery. At 14V, it would be only 14.3A. If their ratings are done the same way as most car alternators, then it's actually 200W at 15V, so only 13.3A available.
Click to expand...

And subtract an amp for charging the battery and you got somewhere around 12 to 13 amps to play with.

I would probably stick with counting wattage since that doesn't change. 200-watts minus 15 watts for the battery and you have 185-watts to play with. Subtract two 35w headlights (LED/HID/Whatever) and maybe 50-watts total for running/brake lights and you are down to 65-watts for whatever else sounds fun like a light rack, stereo, radio, or whatever.

On a side note you probably want to put a 15-amp slow-blow inline fuse between the battery and the regulator charging wire for safety. Might also want a few useful gauges like RPM, Volts, Engine Temp, etc.

If it doesn't have one already I'd get a small used ammo can and bolt it to the buggy somewhere as a sort of glove box. That way you could keep extra fuses, some tools, rope, rain poncho, etc.

I'd also recommend you do lots of searches on google for a GY6 engine. Apparently these are used everywhere for scooter and go-kart engines and are mostly interchangeable. PLENTY of reading to be found out there. The one that is in your Crossfire is a Howhitt GY6 150cc engine for reference, or at least that's what it /should/ be. Plenty of aftermarket and parts available should you want to rebuild the engine yourself.
 
Yep, all over the GY6 stuff... USED EVERYWHERE!!! the RUCKUS has it, so parts will be endless for years to come... I'll add up all accessories planed tonight... with it all being LED, I'll save a bit.

Agree on Fuses, good advice,

I think i've found a case to mount on the back (for tools etc.), but I do have a few ammo cans too...(need a battery holder too..dont think the zipties the kid was using will work too much longer).
 
G-RELL said:
Yep, all over the GY6 stuff... USED EVERYWHERE!!! the RUCKUS has it, so parts will be endless for years to come... I'll add up all accessories planed tonight... with it all being LED, I'll save a bit.

Agree on Fuses, good advice,

I think i've found a case to mount on the back (for tools etc.), but I do have a few ammo cans too...(need a battery holder too..dont think the zipties the kid was using will work too much longer).
Click to expand...

Ammo cans work wonders and look pretty cool too if they still have the stencil on them.

It looks like you could bolt one between the seats and have it double as a sort of center console too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 63 (members: 0, guests: 63)
Back
Top