Gen 1 2002 LS - Parking Brake Emergency Brake won't stay up engaged, Red Brake Dash Light

[LDM]

I have a 2002 Lincoln LS Gen 1 and the Parking Brake / Emergency Brake (which is mechanical on a Gen 1) has never worked correctly. It doesn't stay up or stay engaged (it self releases). It does engage the brakes as it will slow the car down if I pull it when moving. I just never use it, as it just holds for a few seconds or a few minutes and releases itself.

Just recently a red indicator light on the dash shows with a red Brake text and red exclamation mark and red circled P.

How do I get the light to turn off on the dash, and what is the fix so the hand brake holds? Can I just ignore this?

 

[joegr]

Please be aware that the red brake light also indicates main brake faults, such as low brake fluid level.

 

[LDM]

It started right after I just touched the hand brake the other day, the light came on, just touched it again and the light went off, then moved it more and the light stayed on, then I pulled and released it a many times to see if the light would go off. I have pulled the hand brake many times and turned off the car and restarted it, and driven the car a few times.

I just checked the brake fluid level and it's ok.

A few years back I put over $2000 into the brakes and only put about 500-3000 miles a year on the car since (new master brake cylinder, brake fluid flush, rear stainless steel brake lines, all new brake calipers, all new rotors, new pads). The brakes seem to be working fine.

 

[joegr]

It's been a pretty good while since I have seen a 1st gen, so I only have generic advice.
Is the release plunger working well (springs back out quickly when you release it, not hard to push it in)? If not, maybe something sticky has been spilled there and is gumming it up.
Otherwise, I'd remove as much as is required of the center console. That should expose the ratchet mechanism that is supposed to hold the brake lever up. It should also expose the parking brake switch. It may need to be cleaned, adjusted, and/or replaced.

 

[LDM]

No drinks are ever in the car, nothing spilled (maybe from previous owner prior to 2011). I scanned for codes, no codes, nothing to reset. (Edited)

The parking brake release plunger works fine and is smooth, not hard to push etc. As mentioned previously the hand brake doesn't stay up, rarely ever has it engaged, and when it does, it just releases itself eventually within minutes or less.

I will pull it apart and see if I can find that parking brake switch, check ratchet mechanism. I have had this all apart a few years ago and never found anything broken... but will check again. When I showed this to the dealer years ago they said the emergency brake mechanism part alone was over $400, without labor to fix it. Hopefully I can find something wrong myself and fix it or clean it as you mentioned. Thank you for your input.

Anyone else had their parking brake on a Gen1 not stay engaged or brake dash light come on when you move the parking brake lever?

 

[joegr]

... (codes are for emissions anyway, not brakes)...

This is certainly not true. While the 1st gen won't have anything for the parking brake (the 2nd gen certainly does), it will have plenty for the ABS, AdvanceTrac, traction control, climate control, seats, transmission, lights, and on and on. You just need a scan tool that reads all those systems.

 

[LDM]

I see that now there are other codes besides emissions, sounds like it's original intent was for emissions, at least that's how it was stated to me years ago.

OBD-II standardization was prompted to simplify diagnosis of increasingly complicated emissions equipment, and though only emission-related codes and data are required to be transmitted through it according to U.S. legislation, most manufacturers have made the OBD-II Data Link Connector the main connector in the vehicle through which all systems are diagnosed and reprogrammed. OBD-II Diagnostic Trouble Codes are 4-digit, preceded by a letter: P for engine and transmission (powertrain), B for body, C for chassis, and U for network. Manufacturers may also add custom data parameters to their specific OBD-II implementation, including real-time data requests as well as trouble codes.
On-board diagnostics - Wikipedia

Guess it can do at lot more. I plugged in the Garmin ecoRoute HD Vehicle Diagnostics Communicator HD that connects to the Kenwood Excelon stereo system. I usually leave it unplugged. It didn't find any codes.

 

[joegr]

Yeah, a generic one won't get you much. Forscan is good, and cheap (The PC version, not the phone versions).

 

[LDM]

Is this PC version of a Forscan adapter worthy of purchasing (it has the most reviews)?

OHP ELMconfig Forscan OBD2 Adapter with MS-CAN & HS-CAN Switch for Ford Programming and Car Health Diagnostics on Windows:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=psdc_15707381_t1_B005ZWM0R4

 

[LDM]

Here is another PC Adapter with even more reviews, but it doesn't specifically state it works with Forscan (although some users say it works with Forscan).

ScanTool OBDLink SX USB: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows – DIY Car and Truck Data and Diagnostics byOBDLink

https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBD...005ZWM0R4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This adapter is mentioned in this article:
ELM327-compatible adapters - how to choose - FORScan forum

Note: This adapter does not support the advanced codes via MS-CAN (requires manual modification/hack)

 

[joegr]

Those are probably as good as any. I have this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[04_Sport_LS]

For your parking brake issue... as the cable gets used, it stretches. Eventually to the point that it will sometimes prevent the lever from dropping all the way to hit the plunger switch that turns off the brake warning light.

You may have a combination of things going on with the parking brake.

- bad switch
- stretched cable

and from your description it sounds like the ratchet pawl in the lever arm is no longer working...or the button release/rod on the end of the arm is malfunctioning.

The switch and cable is easy enough to get aftermarket. A proper functioning brake arm assembly could be found in a boneyard pretty cheap. Especially if you pull it yourself.

All 3 parts MIGHT cost you $100, (if that much), if you do as suggested above.

 

[LDM]

I took the car into the dealership for a Check Charging System issue. Before leaving I removed the Emergency Brake Arm Cover and took some pictures. The switch is tight and doesn't wiggle, and the brake arm is tight also. The brake arm tab that presses on the switch is just missing the switch plunger. The plunger doesn't move around, the brake arm tab that presses the switch plunger is solid and doesn't move. If I press the plunger by hand the brake light on the dash goes out. (If the switch was cracked/broken/loose I would just replace it, but it appears to be attached ok and works ok).

I am curious as to the cause of the misalignment and the correct step to align it and fix it. (The arm itself probably needs replaced to make it stay engaged, but I am just trying to address the alignment issue and get the brake light turned off at the dash for now).

 

[04_Sport_LS]

and get the brake light turned off at the dash for now).

Unplug the wire harness from the switch.

 

[LDM]

There appears to be a possible bend in the metal switch attachment mount. I will just pull the switch when I get the car back and see if that can be straightened, or since they are relatively cheap just by a new switch (assuming it's the switch causing the misalignment).

 

[LDM]

I just ordered Switch Part# F37Z-15A851-A for $9.79:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O08HNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3RYV5EESX922K&psc=1

 

[04_Sport_LS]

There appears to be a possible bend in the metal switch attachment mount.

Yeah... I noticed that. Your cable might be stretched to the point that the lever goes full stroke... and the tab bent the switch out of alignment.

There should be an adjustment point on the cable. Either at the lever... under the vehicle... or at the rear where all 3 cables tie together.

As far as the lever not staying up... I'll go back to what I originally said about the ratchet mechanism being broken... and you'll probably have to get a used one from the boneyard.