Got reverse, no got forward gears and no codes 2000 LS V8

So you spent more time pulling valve covers, (to check the condition of the transmission???:confused:), instead of pulling the drain plug and/or tranny pan, (to look for debris), to check the condition of the transmission???o_O

If anybody wonders why I haven't been on here much over the last few months... this should explain it.;)

Most junkyards will pull their own parts and warranty them to work... with a refund if they don't.

You could at least have them throw a battery in the vehicle to check milage... since most reputable junkyards save the keys nowadays.

I'm now going to fade back into the mist from whence I came...
 
04_Sport_LS
Well, I'm not sure what planet you live on but I only know of a single wrecking yard within 100 miles of Denver that will pull your parts. And they only do trucks and/or units that are less than 5 years old. So ALL our cars are out. As for fluids, they drain them all prior to setting the vehicle (EPA requirement) so that won't tell you anything. So the only way to check if a nice clean unit is sitting in front of you is to know the weaknesses.
The 3.9 LS/T-bird/4.0 S Type Jag have a very big weakness - the cam tensioners. Since fluids are out (see above), if a nice clean unit is sitting in front of me it most likely means either the cam tensioners failed or the tranny failed. Since they won't let you put a battery to them nor are there usually keys even if you did, you have to rely on visual inspection of a known fail. So, you pull the cam covers and check the chains. In this case, the chains looked ok. SO...it might have dropped a valve that you can't see (I didn't have my bore-scope with me) OR the tranny is bad. OR maybe upper ball joints - which would be a stupid reason to junk a nice car other-wise.
So unless you happen to know a wrecking yard in the Denver metro area that will pull parts AND has an LS/T-Bird/S-Type on the lot that thy will check it out for you prior to pulling the parts, HOLD YOUR SARCASM!!


edit...oh...and I've built two 4.0 S type engines and have another sitting here to build. So as an FYI I had both cam covers off in about 10-15 minutes.
 
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I am well aware of the shortcomings on both Gens of the LS. Pretty sure I have been on this forum much longer than you.

Just because the chains looked good... doesn't mean the tranny is bad. That's called faulty logic. They could have previously been replaced.

In my neck of the woods... junkyards range from "pick and pull" yourself... places that will do it for you... to places that have the parts sitting on a shelf.

They range from lying in water to pull parts... to places that are paved or stoned and the vehicles are on jack stands... to walking out the door in five minutes with part in hand... or loaded in your truck.

You forgot a scenario... Could be that all of the suspension parts are shot ,(bushings), and the cost to replace everything, ( including shocks and springs), was cost prohibitive. Beyond that... there are multiple reasons to find an LS or S-Type in a boneyard.

While the tranny in your LS might be fried, (dark fluid is a good indicator of that)... there is something you could try before spending $$$ and time on fluid, filter, and messing with the solenoid pack.

You said, (in less words), that the selector shaft seal was leaking. Beyond that needing fixing. It's possible that the DTR could need replacing. I don't know if Joe will agree with what I am saying... but I've seen many Ford transmissions over the years... get very quirky due to a bad DTR or MLPS. It's possible that with the shaft seal leaking... tranny fluid may have gotten inside the DTR and messed it up. Or maybe just due to age and wear... the DTR is bad. Electronic transmissions don't like to work if it's not sure what gear it is in.
 
And you could have pulled the tranny pan, (even if the fluid was drained), to check for debris in the pan... and see what color any residual fluid might have been. THAT... would be a better indicator of the condition of the tranny... than looking at cam chains. :rolleyes:
 
I did consider pulling the pan but as noted above, working from the top was better for a partial elimination than the wet under as it had snowed the day before I was there. Lying in mud (and the cold) just wasn't on the top of my list for that day which is why I decided to try and rule out the engine. As timing would have it, it took most of a week before I could get back to that yard to consider going under to check the pan but the car had already been crushed.
Do you know if the DTR is dedicated to the N or are there other swaps available (S or W)?
I do appreciate your knowledge. While I have had and worked on many a Ford since the early 70's, this is the first time I have had the (miss)adventure into dealing with a "modern" Ford electronic transmission. In all my years I have only had to deal with one transmission failure and that was a BW65/66 in an XJ6 about 10 years ago. Till now. The Jag was an easy fix. The LS...not so much...
 
Sorry to hear the car got crushed... but being from a Jag... the harness may not have matched the LS. Jag is known for doing things differently at times... but you know that.

I cannot say for certain that the DTR is interchangeable between variations of the 5r55... due to minor differences in electronics/wiring... and any revisions made.

Joegr would know more about that since he is the electrical guru here.

The easiest way to find out without Joe's input... would be to search part #s of the DTR... for different years and models that use the 5r55. If the part # ends up being the same... you have your answer. If it ends up not being the same part # ... you still have your answer. :)

This forum is a great source for help... but the best way to learn sometimes... is do the research yourself.

Then... if you hit a brick wall and can't figure something out... someone will be here for you... or anyone else.

Not directed at you... but I think I can speak for Joe... that he gets tired answering the same questions over and over... and over... and over again.

Again not directed at you... but some people come on here... thinking it's like justanswerdotcom... or another one of those instant "ask a mechanic" websites.

Just take a look at how many cooling system threads are on the LS part of the forum. You'd think people would take the time to read... but evidently not.

I apologize to you. Ask Dutch and a few others on here. I haven't been around for a few months, ( on this part of the forum anyway ). I got burned out... cause it's always the same questions. Then...
when you give the straight answers... they don't believe it... and come back saying it didn't work... when they didn't follow the complete instructions.

Again... I'm sorry. I guess I need some more time away. I've worked way too many hours the past couple years... and have way too much to catch up on at home.
 
And to reply to a comment you made about workingnon electronic transmissions...

They really aren't too much different. Just that instead of a mechaical connection to the valve body and having a kickdown linkage... the solenoid pack does most of the work now. But it does use the DTR/MLPS to determine gear selection. If bad... it can shift hard... late... act funny, (like its slipping)... might not fully engage converter lockup... etc. etc.etc.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Sorry to hear the car got crushed... but being from a Jag... the harness may not have matched the LS. Jag is known for doing things differently at times... but you know that.

I cannot say for certain that the DTR is interchangeable between variations of the 5r55... due to minor differences in electronics/wiring... and any revisions made.

Joegr would know more about that since he is the electrical guru here.

The easiest way to find out without Joe's input... would be to search part #s of the DTR... for different years and models that use the 5r55. If the part # ends up being the same... you have your answer. If it ends up not being the same part # ... you still have your answer. :)

This forum is a great source for help... but the best way to learn sometimes... is do the research yourself.

Then... if you hit a brick wall and can't figure something out... someone will be here for you... or anyone else.

Not directed at you... but I think I can speak for Joe... that he gets tired answering the same questions over and over... and over... and over again.

Again not directed at you... but some people come on here... thinking it's like justanswerdotcom... or another one of those instant "ask a mechanic" websites.

Just take a look at how many cooling system threads are on the LS part of the forum. You'd think people would take the time to read... but evidently not.

I apologize to you. Ask Dutch and a few others on here. I haven't been around for a few months, ( on this part of the forum anyway ). I got burned out... cause it's always the same questions. Then...
when you give the straight answers... they don't believe it... and come back saying it didn't work... when they didn't follow the complete instructions.

Again... I'm sorry. I guess I need some more time away. I've worked way too many hours the past couple years... and have way too much to catch up on at home.
Click to expand...
Yes you have been MIA as of late ...I'm sure I can speak for everyone on the forum ...you've been greatly missed 04' Sport
 
Changing the solenoids or the fluid will just waste money. Neither of them will repair this broken transmission. This one won't have forward again until the mechanical part that broke is replaced. The only way to know which part that was is to take the trans out and tear it down. How do I know this? I was part of the 5R55N design team at Ford.

And no, this trans doesn't have two overdrives. Overdrive is added to first gear to make second gear, and it is also added to fourth gear to make fifth gear. But it is only one overdrive used in to different gears.
 
Most failures like that would probably be worn servo bores which burns up the bands. You already got a good deal on the car at $500 ..if its really good condition then invest in a rebuilt trans and converter and swap it. If you are looking to resell then just buy a used one off Ebay from a high feedback source. I would rather buy a rebuilt one from a large outfit as they usually have improvements like sleeved servo bores and other improvements. Wrong car to buy and work on if you like to save money lol.

Parts are not cheap and a well worn Gen 1 needs 3K in parts alone after 150K mile mark when you factor in timing chain overhaul, suspension wear, cooling system overhaul, coils, and so on. The best cost effective way is to spend a few thousand up front on a low mileage 06 IMO, as they already have the better styling cues in place, no timing issues for Gen 2 V8's, so trans, cooling, and suspension issues are about it but way on down the line if you can find a nice cherry one..but they are getting scarce.

I too bought my 2000 V8 LS for $500..im into over 5K now doing the labor myself..BUT its damn near been restored and I paid as i went and fixed it to my liking. People laugh when someone with a 60K mile 06 LS is posted for sale for over 4K but they end up spending that or more to fix up a higher mileage car and if ya don't expect to throw some money at them..maybe want a different ride. Its a labor of love kinda car.
 
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Well just so no one thinks I'm full of crap about suggesting the DTR... I did a little digging.

I didn't write it... Im not affiliated with it... nor am I compensated by it.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Transmission Position Sensor (Switch)

Reverse only could be limp mode for the LS with a bad DTR.

Bill,

After getting on your case... I felt bad... so I did some leg work for ya.

That specific DTR interchanges with 2005-2010 Mustangs... the '02-'06 Thunderbird... and all years of the LS.

It's a $28 part through an online dealer, (aftermarket is over double that), so you'd be looking at around $40 shipped to your door with tax.

The website is Ford Parts Giant... and the factory part number is:

5W4Z-7F293-AA

Too bad you weren't able to write down the codes before they got deleted. That would have helped determine the issue... but the DTR is the cheapest thing to try at this point.

Keep in mind you might have to to a slight cable adjustment also.

Good luck.
 
Generic advice does not always work for specific cases. The LS is smart enough to compare the gearshift lever position from the shifter in the cabin to the DTR. If they don't match, the problem is logged and reported. I don't believe that reverse is the limp mode. Just trying to save time and money here. I still believe as I posted earlier, there is a mechanical failure in the transmission.
 
And I don't disagree with you. Most likely a servo bore or drive band failure or separator plate issue since those are the major known issues.

I'll be the first to admit that when it comes to the electrical/electronics side of the LS... that is my weak spot... since so far I have been blessed with a car with no gremlins.

It's all good. :)
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Well just so no one thinks I'm full of crap about suggesting the DTR... I did a little digging.

I didn't write it... Im not affiliated with it... nor am I compensated by it.

Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Transmission Position Sensor (Switch)

Reverse only could be limp mode for the LS with a bad DTR.
Click to expand...
No, it cannot be limp mode. Even though it's on the internet, it's wrong. No matter what the DTR says or doesn't say the trans will engage in a forward gear. It may not upshift, but you will ALWAYS have forward with a DTR problem.

Installing a new DTR will just waste money. This trans has a mechanical failure inside. End of story.
 
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