Harmonic Balancer/ Crank Pulley

AmsterDutch

AmsterDutch

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I just purchased a Harmonic Balancer from a salvage yard came off a 2005 LS 3.9 I'm replacing the existing one on my 2006 LS ...question is ....What else do I need besides the Harmonic Balancer to perform this job? I know this is a repeated topic that I started awhile back just want to get it done before the snow falls ...the cold mornings are making the Harmonic Balancer throw off the belt tensioner and its snapping ...never happened all summer but now that it's cold again its acting up...thanks
 
Parts:
Front shaft seal.
Damper bolt* *: You are supposed to replace the one-time bolt. Many don't. If you don't, then don't follow the factory tightening procedure. Just make it really tight.

Tools:
Some sort of strap wrench to hold the damper while loosening the damper bolt. It's very important that you don't let the damper (and crankshaft) turn counterclockwise. That would damage the primary timing chains. Of course, you'll need the wrench to hold the replacement damper while tightening the bolt too. I used an old accessory drive belt as the strap.
Front shaft seal install tool.
 
joegr said:
Parts:
Front shaft seal.
Damper bolt* *: You are supposed to replace the one-time bolt. Many don't. If you don't, then don't follow the factory tightening procedure. Just make it really tight.

Tools:
Some sort of strap wrench to hold the damper while loosening the damper bolt. It's very important that you don't let the damper (and crankshaft) turn counterclockwise. That would damage the primary timing chains. Of course, you'll need the wrench to hold the replacement damper while tightening the bolt too. I used an old accessory drive belt as the strap.
Front shaft seal install tool.
Click to expand...
You're making me nervous when you said I could damage the timing chains ...might be better to let my Mechanic tackle this one...would rockauto have the Damper bolt? and the Front shaft seal? How would I go about finding these parts? Are they still sold?
 
The bolt is Ford/Jaguar only AFAIK. It seems to be in and out of production. I don't know which it is right now.
I don't think that Ford sells the shaft seal any more. It's probably an aftermarket/Jaguar only thing now.

As long as you keep the damper from turning backwards more than a few degrees while removing the bolt, you will be fine. I don't know if you can get the seal correctly seated without the install tool. I was lucky and found one on ebay for a good price.
Also, I forgot to mention that you will need a damper removal tool. You don't need the Ford one, many of the universal ones work. You don't need the damper install tool.
Also, I forgot that you need to put sealant on the damper keyway when installing the replacement one.

s6x~us~en~file=n0011564.gif~gen~ref.gif


2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
 
Fordpartsgiant has the front seal...

2W9Z-6700-AA

I used a really large socket like 2” or something like that as the “front seal install tool.” Make sure it goes on straight!

You can also borrow a puller at autozone.
 
rgorke said:
Fordpartsgiant has the front seal...

2W9Z-6700-AA

I used a really large socket like 2” or something like that as the “front seal install tool.” Make sure it goes on straight!

You can also borrow a puller at autozone.
Click to expand...
Okay Thanks rgorke! Much appreciated for the info...really cool of you!
 
joegr said:
The bolt is Ford/Jaguar only AFAIK. It seems to be in and out of production. I don't know which it is right now.
I don't think that Ford sells the shaft seal any more. It's probably an aftermarket/Jaguar only thing now.

As long as you keep the damper from turning backwards more than a few degrees while removing the bolt, you will be fine. I don't know if you can get the seal correctly seated without the install tool. I was lucky and found one on ebay for a good price.
Also, I forgot to mention that you will need a damper removal tool. You don't need the Ford one, many of the universal ones work. You don't need the damper install tool.
Also, I forgot that you need to put sealant on the damper keyway when installing the replacement one.

View attachment 828573012
Thanks for the info Joe! This will really help! I think I'm going to try tackling this job...Wish me luck...
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
Click to expand...
 
joegr said:
The bolt is Ford/Jaguar only AFAIK. It seems to be in and out of production. I don't know which it is right now.
I don't think that Ford sells the shaft seal any more. It's probably an aftermarket/Jaguar only thing now.

As long as you keep the damper from turning backwards more than a few degrees while removing the bolt, you will be fine. I don't know if you can get the seal correctly seated without the install tool. I was lucky and found one on ebay for a good price.
Also, I forgot to mention that you will need a damper removal tool. You don't need the Ford one, many of the universal ones work. You don't need the damper install tool.
Also, I forgot that you need to put sealant on the damper keyway when installing the replacement one.

View attachment 828573012
I just received the Harmonic Balancer and I'm going to try to tackle this job myself..appreciate the info ...Thanks again!

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
Click to expand...
 
joegr said:
The bolt is Ford/Jaguar only AFAIK. It seems to be in and out of production. I don't know which it is right now.
I don't think that Ford sells the shaft seal any more. It's probably an aftermarket/Jaguar only thing now.

As long as you keep the damper from turning backwards more than a few degrees while removing the bolt, you will be fine. I don't know if you can get the seal correctly seated without the install tool. I was lucky and found one on ebay for a good price.
Also, I forgot to mention that you will need a damper removal tool. You don't need the Ford one, many of the universal ones work. You don't need the damper install tool.
Also, I forgot that you need to put sealant on the damper keyway when installing the replacement one.

View attachment 828573012

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
Click to expand...
This site can be so finicky sometimes
 
joegr said:
The bolt is Ford/Jaguar only AFAIK. It seems to be in and out of production. I don't know which it is right now.
I don't think that Ford sells the shaft seal any more. It's probably an aftermarket/Jaguar only thing now.

As long as you keep the damper from turning backwards more than a few degrees while removing the bolt, you will be fine. I don't know if you can get the seal correctly seated without the install tool. I was lucky and found one on ebay for a good price.
Also, I forgot to mention that you will need a damper removal tool. You don't need the Ford one, many of the universal ones work. You don't need the damper install tool.
Also, I forgot that you need to put sealant on the damper keyway when installing the replacement one.

View attachment 828573012

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info much appreciated ...I'm going to try tackling this job myself...Thanks again
 
AmsterDutch said:
You're making me nervous when you said I could damage the timing chains ...might be better to let my Mechanic tackle this one...would rockauto have the Damper bolt? and the Front shaft seal? How would I go about finding these parts? Are they still sold?
Click to expand...

I would worry about that also if I was doing this job. Seems to me that gripping the pulley on the outside with a strap wrench is too risky. It could slip or the rubber could break loose and the inside spin even though you have a good grip on the outside. The rubber bond is the reason it is being replaced after all since it is failing. I will go this route when my turn comes.
homemade-crankshaft-pulley-locking-tool.jpeg
 
jerryg2112 said:
I would worry about that also if I was doing this job. Seems to me that gripping the pulley on the outside with a strap wrench is too risky. It could slip or the rubber could break loose and the inside spin even though you have a good grip on the outside. The rubber bond is the reason it is being replaced after all since it is failing. I will go this route when my turn comes.
View attachment 828573015
Click to expand...
Where did you find this pic? I am interested in learning more about this technique/procedure with a bar? Thanks
 
rgorke said:
I used a really large socket like 2” or something like that as the “front seal install tool.” Make sure it goes on straight!
Click to expand...

And the timing cover has no lip to keep you from driving the seal in too far. Keep that in mind. Also... glue it in place with some Indian Head, (brand), cement/shellac.
 
AmsterDutch said:
Is the key that loose?
Click to expand...

The key is a friction "slip fit". My question to Joe was more regarding oil seepage.

Regarding the key.... and depending on how the keyway is cut in the crank snout.

As you run the new damper on... you're gonna want to make sure the key is sticking out slightly from the face of the damper. Then when the damper is seated... tap the key in flush using a proper sized pin punch.

Pin Punch Set 8 Pc
 
AmsterDutch said:
If that would work and reassure the part from moving ...That would be convenient to say the very least
Click to expand...

Yeah. And maybe use a strap wrench in conjunction with the lock pin... just to make sure that no damage occurs at the lock pin location.

Just remember to pull the lock pin before cranking the engine!!!!!!! :confused::eek::mad::(:rolleyes:
 
AmsterDutch said:
I just purchased a Harmonic Balancer from a salvage yard came off a 2005 LS 3.9 I'm replacing the existing one on my 2006 LS
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity how do you know that the pulley runs true? Lot of work to find out that the new one is better but on its' way out as well. I have a 05 with 105k and can see that it doesn't run true anymore. I don't know how much run out is too much.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
The key is a friction "slip fit". My question to Joe was more regarding oil seepage.

Regarding the key.... and depending on how the keyway is cut in the crank snout.

As you run the new damper on... you're gonna want to make sure the key is sticking out slightly from the face of the damper. Then when the damper is seated... tap the key in flush using a proper sized pin punch.

Pin Punch Set 8 Pc
Click to expand...
So it sounds like the Key is going to be nice and snug when replacing it?
 
jerryg2112 said:
Just out of curiosity how do you know that the pulley runs true? Lot of work to find out that the new one is better but on its' way out as well. I have a 05 with 105k and can see that it doesn't run true anymore. I don't know how much run out is too much.
Click to expand...
To be honest I'm taking my chances that this Pick and pull part will work ...picked it up for $30 dollars and that included shipping from a Salvage Yard...nothing says it will be functional but after seeing how much the Dorman was on Rock Auto $580 dollars I thought I would take a shot in the dark with a 05 OEM...Kinda can't win for losing here
 
You'll want to make sure of that with the keyway in the replacement damper. If it seems sloppy... rotate the key 90 degrees. If still sloppy... the keyway in the replacement damper is fubar. Not sure if the key itself is square cut, or rectangular cut.
 
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