Harmonic Balancer/ Crank Pulley

jerryg2112 said:
Just out of curiosity how do you know that the pulley runs true? Lot of work to find out that the new one is better but on its' way out as well. I have a 05 with 105k and can see that it doesn't run true anymore. I don't know how much run out is too much.
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The way my belt tensioner is slapping when it's cold in the morning I thought I would throw a hail mary because if this thing fails it won't be good ...I'm not sure what would happen but I know it can't be good
 
jerryg2112 said:
Just out of curiosity how do you know that the pulley runs true? Lot of work to find out that the new one is better but on its' way out as well. I have a 05 with 105k and can see that it doesn't run true anymore. I don't know how much run out is too much.
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The belt tensioner slaps for about 2-3 minutes until the car warms up a little then runs fine the rest of the day...even after sitting at work all day I get into it after work and it doesn't snap/slap whatever you want to call it
04_Sport_LS said:
You'll want to make sure of that with the keyway in the replacement damper. If it seems sloppy... rotate the key 90 degrees. If still sloppy... the keyway in the replacement damper is fubar. Not sure if the key itself is square cut, or rectangular cut.
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I have Keys at work for other motors I install into machinery ...would any key work as long as it's nice and tight?
 
AmsterDutch said:
To be honest I'm taking my chances that this Pick and pull part will work ...picked it up for $30 dollars and that included shipping from a Salvage Yard...nothing says it will be functional but after seeing how much the Dorman was on Rock Auto $580 dollars I thought I would take a shot in the dark with a 05 OEM...Kinda can't win for losing here
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I hope it all works out for you.
 
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Well I dont think I have everything I need on this part now that you're talking about rubber I dont see any rubber?
 
Are you 100% sure it's not the tensioner? The springs do get weak over time... and with cooler temps the belt gets stiff and temporarily shaped to the pulleys.

How much is a new Ford damper, (if still available)? While the new Dorman is expensive... I don't trust their parts durability.

As far as the key.... you won't know the size until you pull the old damper. The original key is probably fine... and may stay stuck in the crank snout. You'll just have to make sure it doesn't get shoved back as you install the balancer.

Since you deal with this stuff at work... I assume you have a set of calipers? When you get the original balancer off... you could use the calipers to check the keyway dimensions of both balancers.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
You'll want to make sure of that with the keyway in the replacement damper. If it seems sloppy... rotate the key 90 degrees. If still sloppy... the keyway in the replacement damper is fubar. Not sure if the key itself is square cut, or rectangular cut.
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jerryg2112 said:
I don't know how much run out is too much.
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How does this Harmonic Balancer run out anyway? I mean I know it's ( Wear and Tear) but you would think once the bolt is torqued it would be damn near invincible
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Are you 100% sure it's not the tensioner? The springs do get weak over time... and with cooler temps the belt gets stiff and temporarily shaped to the pulleys.

How much is a new Ford damper, (if still available)? While the new Dorman is expensive... I don't trust their parts durability.

As far as the key.... you won't know the size until you pull the old damper. The original key is probably fine... and may stay stuck in the crank snout. You'll just have to make sure it doesn't get shoved back as you install the balancer.

Since you deal with this stuff at work... I assume you have a set of calipers? When you get the original balancer off... you could use the calipers to check the keyway dimensions of both balancers.
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That's a good question ....I replaced the tensioner after replacing the belt ....it was an OEM Belt Tensioner and the belt is Gates or Continental ...anyway after replacing the belt the original tensioner was slapping so I replaced the Tensioner and it still slapped...long story short I did properly torque the New tensioner but now you have me wondering if I should replace the Belt with an OEM or maybe the MotorCraft belt tensioner is faulty...just seems strange that the Harmonic Balancer is wobbly or not spinning as straight as it should be or at least it doesn't look as straight as it should be...wish I was more Tech suavey I would video tape it so you could tell me what you think ...
 
AmsterDutch said:
Well I dont think I have everything I need on this part now that you're talking about rubber I dont see any rubber?
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Look at the face of the balancer. There's a rubber ring sandwiched in the middle. It looks good from the pic... but look for any cracks.

Also... make sure both halves are true, with no lateral runout, (wobble). If you have a way to chuck it in a lathe at work... spin it and see. If the outer half wobbles worse than the original... it's probably no good.
 
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Your belt and tensioner are probably fine then. Since you see visual wobble in the original damper, its probably the culprit. Just check the replacement before install, to make sure its not worse that the original.

Again... from the pic... the rubber looks good on the replacement.

Again... if you have a lathe at work... you could chuck both up and compare them. Make sure you mark them both so you don't get them confused with each other.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Look at the face of the balancer. There's a rubber ring sandwiched in the middle. It looks good from the pic... but look for any cracks.

Also... make sure both halves are true, with no lateral runout, (wobble). If you have a way to chuck it in a lathe at work... spin it and see. If the outer half wobbles worse than the original... it's probably no good.
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" Chuck it in a lathe" Okay that sounds easy enough..great idea! and yeah now that you said that I was wondering if that was the rubber ring you were talking about ..its just hardened rubber now that i feel it...and yes it does look good from what I can see...no cracks
 
04_Sport_LS said:
The key is a friction "slip fit". My question to Joe was more regarding oil seepage.

Regarding the key.... and depending on how the keyway is cut in the crank snout.

As you run the new damper on... you're gonna want to make sure the key is sticking out slightly from the face of the damper. Then when the damper is seated... tap the key in flush using a proper sized pin punch.

Pin Punch Set 8 Pc
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No way to do that. If you put one on, you will see why.
 
jerryg2112 said:
Just out of curiosity how do you know that the pulley runs true? Lot of work to find out that the new one is better but on its' way out as well. I have a 05 with 105k and can see that it doesn't run true anymore. I don't know how much run out is too much.
Click to expand...

The failure here is the rubber between the inner part and the outer part. Examine that. Make sure it's not cracked, and not sticking out on one side, or in on one side.
 
Oh, while the service manual says to put sealant on the keyway (and I did), I also put sealant on the back side of the washer and bolt head. I figured that if the oil made it past the other sealant, maybe this would stop it.
 
joegr said:
The failure here is the rubber between the inner part and the outer part. Examine that. Make sure it's not cracked, and not sticking out on one side, or in on one side.
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I just looked at it again the best I could without taking anything apart. The rubber looks ok. Not cracked up but not perfectly even either. When I looked at it running a while back now I could see some wobble. I don't know how much is acceptable as far as causing vibration to the engine but I don't feel any. I would like to measure the actual run out with an indicator to know exactly how much it is but that is going to have to wait since it is sitting in the street, battery disconnected, waiting for the PCM to come back from SIA. If I do decide to fix it I am going to send the balancer to Dale Manufacturing in Oregon for service.
 
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