Heads or Tails: you guys decide my solution

What's my problem


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Sivioke

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Bear with me this is a long one….

I recently bought a ls knowing it had some “issues” the check engine light was on and the car seemed a little sluggish. My friend who is a salesman at a ford dealer sold it to me and said that it had not even been inspected yet and had been traded in, coincidently the previous owner was my neighbor, funny coincidence but I live in a small town, anyway I went and talked to him about it before buying it and he said that the car had been great while he had it and had just had a tune up, new radiator, (not sure why…) and brand new tires. Then the engine light came on and he took it to the dealer to get it fixed but ended up leaving with a brand new Lincoln pickup. He said he didn’t even find out what was wrong with the car.

When I test drove it there was still cigar ashes in the ash tray, and my friend the salesman said that it had not even come out of the “bull pin” a holding lot for cars that have just been traded in. It seemed fine but a little sluggish and sometimes seemed to jerk or feel like it was not able to choose the right gear. IT was at these times that the check engine light would blink but after a while it would stop blinking when the car appeared to be operating fine. My friend and another salesman suspected a PCB Solenoid, the one in the tranny, which after research I have learned is a weak point and has similar symptoms

I have continued researching and have leaning about the bad COPS and VCG which also appear to have the same symptoms when misfiring. I am starting to lean more towards this as my problem because it would seem to me that at the time the check engine light is blinking it would be misfiring and when it goes back to constantly on it is operating fine?

Other then that the car is flawless and everything works perfect but unfortanhlty it has started to get worse. It now has a rough idle, sometimes rougher than others, it will sometimes stutter or shake in the 40 -50mph range, sometimes the reverse takes quite some time to kick in and drive even does that once in a while and finally the other day when I came to a fairly quick stop from 50 mph it almost died and was hovering at like 300rpm. Oh yea and recently it started to knock which I am praying is due to using regular gas by mistake or the cops getting worse. The car still runs good and sounds fine when you rev it or put some gas into it when the symptoms appear so I don’t think there is anything too wrong with it…..
Before I gamble on buying the cops and vcgs or buying the tranny solenoid I was hoping that some of you all could dispense your wisdom and let me know what’s wrong. My living situation dictates that I cannot really tear it apart to diagnose beforehand…well maybe but I’m kind of lazy too…

Oh yea....My car is a 2001 LS V8 and this site kicks major A. It's the best one stop LS resource I have found on the net yet!!!
 
My 2000 V6 was doing the same thing. Lucky you the VCG's and COP's are easier to change. I did both VCG's and all COP's and plugs, and most importantly the PCV valve. It had a major vacuum leak.
Car runs great.
good luck
 
In my state a CEL you can't get an inspection which means you can't get it registered.
 
Before I'd buy anything I would see what the code is. Since the check engine light has came on there will be a code stored in the PCM. Take it to autozone/advance/etc and get the code read and tell us what it is. Taking it to one of these places and getting it read takes 5 minutes and it is free.
 
Based on the experiences of dozens in this forum, 90% chance you have one or more failed or failing COP's. Possibly due to leaky vcg's. Based on your description, Im thinking it is NOT the tranny solenoid.
 
PCV valve hose

The PCV valve hose is a problem in the v6, not sure about a V8. What are the codes? If they are lean both banks, then its most likely the PVC hose. Check all fittings going to the throttle body for tightness.:)
 
thanks for the advice everyone... If I can ever get into my trunk to get my only set of keys out autozone will be the next stop to have my codes read after I run by the dealer to have a second set of keys made.

Speaking of codes can anyone recomend a good odb reader in the $100 or less range
 
OK so per your guys suggestion I went to AutoZone and had my codes read. The clerk plugged the ODB reader into my car and said CRAP five codes.... Cylinder one misfire, Cylinder Two misfire, Cylinder three miss fires. Thank god! Then there were these two other codes that I am guessing are related to the bad cops. They are:

P1132
Def: Lack of bank 1 o2 transitions - rich
Explanation: ECM detected bank 1 02 at its rich limit
Probable Cause:
1. Leaking fuel injector bank 1
2. egr stuck open
3. Engine mechanical condition


And.....

p0174
The PCM has determined that during testing. The fuel system for bank 2 was too lean. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1 while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank)

Definition
Fuel Trim Bank Two Condition
Explanation
The ECM has detected a rich or lean air/fuel ratio condition on engine bank two
Probably Causes
1. If bank one and two are set together suspect a fuel condition or MAF sensor fault
2. Failed H02s21
3. Ignition misfire condition
4. Fuel injector problem
5. Engine mechanical condition

So what do you guys think? Is this a condition of the bad coil or something else? I already went ahead and ordered a set of 8 coils off of eBay. My hunch... the VCG on the one side is leaking and that's why all three of the plugs on one side are bad... what do you all think?
 
I know this is an old thread, but when I search the P1132 code, only 4 theads pull up.. and this one also has the P0174 code that I am also getting.. it is the only thread other than the code list that has this info.. sooo

I have these two codes and was curious if anyone had any suggestions for the OP or based on what his final post was, have any suggestions for myself as I am having the same problem (or if the OP found a fix.. post it up.. if you're still around..)
Thanks!
 
If you haven't checked for oil in the wells, do that. If there's oil, then you need new valve cover gasket *set*.
If you haven't swapped out COPs, then, well, it's a great option.
 
Got all the spark plugs replaced and tried a new coil or two, but it still ran rough.. i found a thread in here showing a video of someone else with a rough idling car and it turned out to be the secondary tensioner.. so I removed the VC and sure enough, my secondary tensioner on the passenger side had broken..

I have the new part and am going to try to get it installed.. but now I'm worried about the timing.. It doesn't appear to have skipped a tooth or anything, but I have no idea how to tell if it is timed ok or not... ??

any tips?
 
I vote coils and VCG. I replaced my VCGs with motorcraft, all 8 coils with ebay coils, and all 8 plugs with ebay motorcraft plugs. It has been 60K since then and no problems.
 

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