!HELP! Diagnosing problems

[ZacUnknown69]

Hey y'all, so I bought my Mark VIII from a guy who parked it in his driveway for 3 years and didn't touch it. I've got it running like a top, but it still needs some fixing up, so I'll list the problems and answer what you know;

Brakes - when I stop the car shakes, a lot. When coasting I hear almost a gravely, grinding sound. I assume it's rotors, your thoughts?

Windows - The passenger window doesn't move, it only makes a clicking sound. So its getting power, but not doing anything. What's the deal? Also my sunroof doesn't open - I hit the button and nothing. Is there a way to make it manually operated? If not - how much to fix?

Air suspension - it will stay inflated once it's finished filling up, but ANY extra weight it has a hard time. I can hear a hiss coming from the drivers side rear. Hole in bag? Solenoid? Line leaking? But the pump is strong

Air conditioning - absolutely nothing, I attempted to fill it with 134A but it wouldn't take it, nor did I hear the compressor kick on. How the hell do I fix this? I mean, it's 92°F and 78% humidity.

Ignition - I put the key in, it starts fine. Or I don't use the key - starts either way. You can also spin the tumbler a good 45° farther than you should be able to. Replace it, install push button start?

Lastly, power steering - it works fine, no stiff wheel. But it makes an awful metal-like squealing sound when turning and needs a tiny alignment.

From the information I've given you, please, help a brother out. I really like this car. Thank you for taking the time to view this.

 

[Bangster]

Would be helpful to post the year of the car, even though they can USUALLY be bucketed by GenI and GenII there are still differences between those 2. I THINK you have a 95 from previous posts.

Brakes shaking and grinding - sounds like both rotors AND pads to me

Window - sounds like the little cushions in the window motor gear box are gone. You would have to remove the motor and check the gear box to see if it is full of mushed up plastic. You can get just the cushions (http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=73278&SEName=1330823) PERSONALLY after having these go bad multiple times, I replace them with hard plastic, so people use nuts (like what screws on a bolt).

Sunroof - no ideas

suspension - could be either, a little soapy water and inspecting the bag would probably find the issue

AC - does the clutch even try to engage? Does your method of filling have a gauge that says what the pressure is on at least the side your charging?

Ignition - sounds like it is time for a new lock cylinder and carrying 2 keys

Power Steering - is it the pump making the noise, the rack, or the tie rod ends? Only squeal I can imagine is the pump, I recently had to flush mine in my 97 to get rid of some cold (relatively cold for me, in the 40s) weather noise, once I did that and refilled it above the min line it was quiet

 

[Rushsampson]

As far as the brakes go, for sure it is rotors. Mark VIIIs are large, heavy cars with comparatively small brakes, so they have a pretty hard job. Its wise to do anyway if they haven't been done in a while as preventative maintenance.

The power window motors are pretty robust, and I've seen few fail, it is normally more often than not the plastic bits that drive the window that fail normally. It will be come pretty obvious to you once you pull the door panel off and investigate further.

The suspension leaking down, nine times out of ten, its leaking bags. Every once in a while its the little o-rings that seal the lines to the solenoid, but its usually the bag is full of holes. Replacing with air spring replacements or spring conversion are your two routes to go.

Since the sunroof seems to be dead to the world, I would start by checking to see if the motor is getting power when you hit the switch. Get in the back seat, and directly above your head you'll see a small panel that hides where the sunroof motor lives. Get your handy multimeter and see if you've got juice there. Its a start.

AC, I've no idea. Its the bane of my existence, I'd sooner shave with broken glass.

You certainly need a new lock cylinder, that sucker is pooped out.

As Bangster said of the PS, determine if you can where the sound is originating. Does the sound get
worse or does it change turning one direction to the other? Anyway, good luck sir.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

Yes, it is a 1995 - sorry I forgot to mention. I'll have to order a kit from EBC then, not having brakes wouldn't end well. I'll try a powersteering flush, I use ATF instead of actual P/S fluid. Works wonders. And the AC, no kick from the clutch, I have the gauge - and nothing.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

Usually I notice it a louder when I turn the wheel left. Or maybe it's because I have to turn left to back out of my driveway. Either way, I have a few hours before work so I'm going to bust out the multimeter (Didn't think of that, thank you), check the bags, see if I can't flush the PS, and hope my brakes work until my next paycheck.
Side note; if the suspension is bad in the back, can I leave the from bags and swap the rear with springs?

 

[Roadboss]

Mercon V is what to use in both the transmission and the power steering. Fill and turn wheels lock to lock several times, drain and refill and do it again. May take two times to flush all the bad fluid out. refill with Mercon V only

 

[Lownslowlsc]

Hey y'all, so I bought my Mark VIII from a guy who parked it in his driveway for 3 years and didn't touch it. I've got it running like a top, but it still needs some fixing up, so I'll list the problems and answer what you know;

Brakes - when I stop the car shakes, a lot. When coasting I hear almost a gravely, grinding sound. I assume it's rotors, your thoughts?

Pads/rotors

Windows - The passenger window doesn't move, it only makes a clicking sound. So its getting power, but not doing anything. What's the deal? Also my sunroof doesn't open - I hit the button and nothing. Is there a way to make it manually operated? If not - how much to fix?

No idea on the window, go with bangsters fix. I recall there being a standard window crank-like shaft to manually open/close the sunroof beneath the rear sunroof cover. It could be as simple as a bad switch.

Air suspension - it will stay inflated once it's finished filling up, but ANY extra weight it has a hard time. I can hear a hiss coming from the drivers side rear. Hole in bag? Solenoid? Line leaking? But the pump is strong

Fill up an old spray bottle with soap and water and soak the bags and solonoids one at a time and then have somebody sit in the car and try to find out where the air is escaping. It could also be a worn out rubber bushing/gasket (?) on the very top of the strut beneath the nut/washer.

Air conditioning - absolutely nothing, I attempted to fill it with 134A but it wouldn't take it, nor did I hear the compressor kick on. How the hell do I fix this? I mean, it's 92°F and 78% humidity.

Is the clutch plugged it?

Ignition - I put the key in, it starts fine. Or I don't use the key - starts either way. You can also spin the tumbler a good 45° farther than you should be able to. Replace it, install push button start?

Sounds like you need a new ign cyl.

Lastly, power steering - it works fine, no stiff wheel. But it makes an awful metal-like squealing sound when turning and needs a tiny alignment.

I empty the contents with a turkey baster, fill it up with Mercon V, turn it clock to clock for 30 seconds and then empty/fill it a couple more times.

From the information I've given you, please, help a brother out. I really like this car. Thank you for taking the time to view this.

The guys have already summed it up but here are my thoughts.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

I haven't done the whole soapy water thing, I'll try it tomorrow. Like I said, the hissing only comes from the drivers side rear. But today - my ma' and old man wanted to see what my car is all about, so I gave them a ride. We all piled in, my ma' sat behind me and I started it up, then the air suspension inflated perfectly fine. It was slow - but achieved the proper ride height. Maybe more weight helps? I have done some weight reduction. But, anyhow - if the rear bags are a loss can I replace ONLY the rear with springs? Or would that not work? Because the front works perfect. I'd much rather prefer to do that.

 

[soduka]

You could but I don't know why you would. The rear bags are cheap and easy to replace. It's the front ones that are getting impossible. Rockauto's got some aftermarket rear air bags for $60 a piece.

 

[Peterk]

Sometimes you have to disconnect the Low Pressure switch on the AC in order to fill a system that is too low on ref.

 

[93mark8rules]

I would replace the rear bags, and see how you make out. Does the front drop while your driving? The reason the car probably didn't leak down with your family in it is because as the bag rolls it kind of seals up. If youve ever seen an old Lincoln limo and the rear end is like 2 feet above the rear wheel the rear bags are failing and the cheap cabbie doesn't want to replace them so he jacked them up to keep them inflated. But anyway heres what I did about a year ago. 2 new rear westar bags off ebay $100 free shipping. Then one of my fronts went, I registered on autozone.com. They pretty much constantly send me 20% off coupons in my email. With the coupons the front air struts with solenoids are $174 a piece with free shipping. Nice part is they all have lifetime warranties and you get to keep your air ride. Youre only going to have one issue, when you install the front struts there is a bolt that goes through the strut and through the lower control arm. They made the hole a hair smaller then it should be and the bolt is a PITA to get through. I just bought a step drill bit and opened it a hair so it matched the hole in my old one. Other wise 12,000 trouble free miles.

As far as the A/C, I usually buy the oil charge seperate then the cans that have just 134 in them, I usually buy 4 cans of 134 and one can of oil charge. The reason for extra cans is you never get the full 14 Oz in the car. I also charge with a gauge set but you dont have to. All you need is the cheap hose with the gauge on it, your low side should be around 32 psi. When the 134 wont go in the trick I always use is with the car off hook up the can to the low pressure side and turn the can upside down like they tell you not to. It sends the 134 in as a liquid instead of a gas and for some reason it goes in easier. The reason that can be a bad thing is liquid cant be compressed and could bend valves in the compressor, but as long as the car is off you wont damage the compressor. After you do that the can will most likely feel empty, now start the car and put it on max A/C if your buttons are all broken like mine it will be the far left button on the bottom. Hopefully the compressor kicks on now and sucks whats left of your can up. If so your next can should be the oil to lube the system, then follow with the 134. If your compressor doesn't come on jump out the low pressure sensor and see if the compressor comes on then charge the system.

Also sounds like you need an ignition tumbler but why bother, as long as it starts and you can drive it no one but you will know you don't really need the key. My 94 is the same way. I use it llike a remote start I use the key to start the car then slide it out of the ignition lock the doors and go inside while it warms up.

For around $300 I got drilled and slotted rotors with Ceramic pads off eBay, totally worth it the car stops much better than it ever did. Plus when I eventually put a set of wheels on it the rotors will look great. The only trick with Ceramics is any contaminants will cause a squeak and your car will should like a school bus. So when you clean and grease your caliper slides, the little slot where the pad sits, and the back of the pad dont get any on the front. I usually wash my hands before putting them in so I dont accidentally get grease on the face of the pad.

If you give me your address Ill send you some of the plastic power window bushings for free. I ordered them from my friend at advanced auto parts but they sent me a case of them instead of the 3 I need. They fit snug so you have to put the 3 bushings in the motor gear housing then put the gear on top and press the gear in lightly with a vice. You can also order a kit that comes with the bottom gear and the bushings that one practically falls together but I noticed it makes a little noise when my window goes up and down, the one that fit tight is on the other side and is silent like it should be.

Your sunroof has little switches on the motor that tell it when its opened and closed, they maybe sticking. But first I would check all my fuses, then remove the cover its on the headliner in the middle over the back seat. Try tapping it with something to free it up while you hold the button. Tapping on it may free it up. If that doesnt work check power. If your motor is bad I may have one for you very soon. Im replacing my whole sunroof assembly but have a good motor.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

I would replace the rear bags, and see how you make out. Does the front drop while your driving? The reason the car probably didn't leak down with your family in it is because as the bag rolls it kind of seals up. If youve ever seen an old Lincoln limo and the rear end is like 2 feet above the rear wheel the rear bags are failing and the cheap cabbie doesn't want to replace them so he jacked them up to keep them inflated. But anyway heres what I did about a year ago. 2 new rear westar bags off ebay $100 free shipping. Then one of my fronts went, I registered on autozone.com. They pretty much constantly send me 20% off coupons in my email. With the coupons the front air struts with solenoids are $174 a piece with free shipping. Nice part is they all have lifetime warranties and you get to keep your air ride. Youre only going to have one issue, when you install the front struts there is a bolt that goes through the strut and through the lower control arm. They made the hole a hair smaller then it should be and the bolt is a PITA to get through. I just bought a step drill bit and opened it a hair so it matched the hole in my old one. Other wise 12,000 trouble free miles.

As far as the A/C, I usually buy the oil charge seperate then the cans that have just 134 in them, I usually buy 4 cans of 134 and one can of oil charge. The reason for extra cans is you never get the full 14 Oz in the car. I also charge with a gauge set but you dont have to. All you need is the cheap hose with the gauge on it, your low side should be around 32 psi. When the 134 wont go in the trick I always use is with the car off hook up the can to the low pressure side and turn the can upside down like they tell you not to. It sends the 134 in as a liquid instead of a gas and for some reason it goes in easier. The reason that can be a bad thing is liquid cant be compressed and could bend valves in the compressor, but as long as the car is off you wont damage the compressor. After you do that the can will most likely feel empty, now start the car and put it on max A/C if your buttons are all broken like mine it will be the far left button on the bottom. Hopefully the compressor kicks on now and sucks whats left of your can up. If so your next can should be the oil to lube the system, then follow with the 134. If your compressor doesn't come on jump out the low pressure sensor and see if the compressor comes on then charge the system.

Also sounds like you need an ignition tumbler but why bother, as long as it starts and you can drive it no one but you will know you don't really need the key. My 94 is the same way. I use it llike a remote start I use the key to start the car then slide it out of the ignition lock the doors and go inside while it warms up.

For around $300 I got drilled and slotted rotors with Ceramic pads off eBay, totally worth it the car stops much better than it ever did. Plus when I eventually put a set of wheels on it the rotors will look great. The only trick with Ceramics is any contaminants will cause a squeak and your car will should like a school bus. So when you clean and grease your caliper slides, the little slot where the pad sits, and the back of the pad dont get any on the front. I usually wash my hands before putting them in so I dont accidentally get grease on the face of the pad.

If you give me your address Ill send you some of the plastic power window bushings for free. I ordered them from my friend at advanced auto parts but they sent me a case of them instead of the 3 I need. They fit snug so you have to put the 3 bushings in the motor gear housing then put the gear on top and press the gear in lightly with a vice. You can also order a kit that comes with the bottom gear and the bushings that one practically falls together but I noticed it makes a little noise when my window goes up and down, the one that fit tight is on the other side and is silent like it should be.

Your sunroof has little switches on the motor that tell it when its opened and closed, they maybe sticking. But first I would check all my fuses, then remove the cover its on the headliner in the middle over the back seat. Try tapping it with something to free it up while you hold the button. Tapping on it may free it up. If that doesnt work check power. If your motor is bad I may have one for you very soon. Im replacing my whole sunroof assembly but have a good motor.

My, plenty of useful information - thanks, fella. I'm going to go mess with my A/C and hope I don't break anything before I have to go to work. I'll do the whole spray bottle on the bags thing so I know exactly what's happening - the front stays inflated, never had a problem with them. I was looking at my sunroof and found out..it wasn't even plugged in, but once I plugged it in and attempted to use it, it made an awful sound like marbles falling down a staircase. I will check eBay for brakes and rotors as well - I'm looking for carbon ceramics.

 

[93mark8rules]

No problem at all, glad to help. Ive had 2 basket case Mark VIII's before that ran great but had just about every option on the car not work. Theyre great cars but now that theyre old people just let the problems build up until they turn into a disaster and then unload them. So im glad to help someone else in the same situation. As far as your sun roof I havent run into that noise before, hopefully one of the other guys have. Let us know how you make out with the A/C.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

No problem at all, glad to help. Ive had 2 basket case Mark VIII's before that ran great but had just about every option on the car not work. Theyre great cars but now that theyre old people just let the problems build up until they turn into a disaster and then unload them. So im glad to help someone else in the same situation. As far as your sun roof I havent run into that noise before, hopefully one of the other guys have. Let us know how you make out with the A/C.

Well, I mean..usually the A/C makes the first move - I don't often make out with it. Oh! I understand, I crawled under the car and looked for connections sprayed the hell out of them with some electrical cleaner, then drank some of the electrical cleaner and next thing I remember is I was at work. It seems the A/C is screwed since the car sat for 2 1/2-3 years, but it's just one of the many problems.

 

[Jeffintampa]

I have worked on my sunroof a lot.... How it works is there is like 2 threaded cables that go by the motor on to pull the and the other to push. Its not real hard to pull the whole sunroof out I had mine totally apart a few times. Take the motor out and put vise grips on the nipple of what the motor goes over. See if you can manually move it if you can back it almost all the way back and lube both tracks with white lithium grease.

If you want to take it out just take out all the screws long the sides (open almost all the way) and front. whole thing slides out.

 

[93mark8rules]

Zac, is the compressor seized? If not I really doubt you're screwed. If you slide under the car (While its off please!) and grab the compressor clutch not the whole pulley but the clutch in the middle try to turn it, if it turns the compressor will most likely work. The low pressure sensor if probably keeping the compressor from coming on. Its a fail safe to keep you from running the compressor with no oil or gas in the system and burning it up. But sometimes the sensor goes bad or you just don't get enough Freon in the system to turn the sensor on and allow the compressor to run. Dont give up man. You could also just have a bad orifice tube that's not letting the Freon pass through the system. Please dont think Im a nut and dont know anything I went to school for auto mechanics and have been working on cars since I was 12, plus I have an A/C certification.

 

[ZacUnknown69]

Zac, is the compressor seized? If not I really doubt you're screwed. If you slide under the car (While its off please!) and grab the compressor clutch not the whole pulley but the clutch in the middle try to turn it, if it turns the compressor will most likely work. The low pressure sensor if probably keeping the compressor from coming on. Its a fail safe to keep you from running the compressor with no oil or gas in the system and burning it up. But sometimes the sensor goes bad or you just don't get enough Freon in the system to turn the sensor on and allow the compressor to run. Dont give up man. You could also just have a bad orifice tube that's not letting the Freon pass through the system. Please dont think Im a nut and dont know anything I went to school for auto mechanics and have been working on cars since I was 12, plus I have an A/C certification.

I did try that, I attempted to spin it by hand. It didn't do anything.