Help---i have a confession...

C

cammerfe

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to make.

I was one of the first to install Accel coils for a Mustang on my '02 LS V8. No one, at the time, seemed to have any idea that the connections were so arranged on the Mustang coils that when plugged-in the coils were operating with reversed polarity.

I didn't pay any attention to the threads suggesting reversing the leads for SEVERAL YEARS. I finally did pay attention to the idea the other day. But by now I've been running the Accel units for 7 years---ever since 2007. Although there has been quite satisfactory function, I'm aware of two problems. First, I've been given to understand that the ignition circuit functions by switching the ground and that this is done through the ECU. It can't be very good for it to have to switch the hot side.

Second, I was told many years ago that there is a difference in efficiency when the circuit is reversed on a coil.

So my first question is, "Please comment on what you can regarding this experience."

Second, when I look at the connection, the 'blades' are on the coil itself, and the formed plastic connector into which the leads go has within it a pair of 'sockets' for the blades. How does one remove them from the connector in order to switch them? I have the 'hypo'-style tool but that seems to be only for removing bullet style connections from their housing. The local Radio Shack, the source for my 'hypo' has no idea of another sort of tool for this task. Guidance please!

KS
 
I ran mine for months before reversing them. It runs much smoother at low rpm. Higher rpm shows no difference. I just used a pick to pull the clip out of the connectors. All of them broke in the process but the still stay on the coil without them. My 3.9 has 248k miles, and it runs great.
 
You'll probably need a needle nose pliers, an eyeglass flat tip, and a small-to-medium sized flat tip.

Use either the pliers or larger flat tip to pull the red retainer out until it stops. There's two nubs on the center piece of the red retainer. One points towards one pin, the other points to the other. Both catches in the black plastic, however, are at the same point. You pull the the retainer out a little, pry the pin-shroud away a little with the small screwdriver, pull the red clip a little further, then pry the other shroud away.

Once the retainer is out, use the small flat tip to push the retaining flange on the top (thumb-release) side, if I remember correctly. I got lucky with coil 1 going smoothly, and then broke retainers 2-6. Retainer 7 came out in once piece, but the black portion broke. That allowed me to see how it was made, so I got #8 out successfully. One day I'll replace all 8 connectors. It's about $45 on eBay

I'll look around for the pictures
 
I had mine in reversed for awhile and ruined my CATs....they may have been on the way out before from bad COP's. The car was hard to start. It would crank several times before firing. I used a paperclip to remove the pins in the connector. I didnt pry up on the red clip, I pulled it out with needle nose pliers fron the middle section.

I am very happy with these COPs and would suggest them to everyone. Cheaper then OEM and good quality. Available at most parts stores.
 
Here's the direct copy/paste from my reply to the thread in which the guy wanted to go with Accels solely to seal the plug wells. Hite suspiciously sold out of the adapter brackets after that statement. It turns out the retainer doesn't move until you release the first bump, but it's all the same after that

Alright, picture time. I couldn't find any help pulling the red clips when I did my Accel job. As a result, I broke 6 of the red clips. The first one came out fine and gave me way too much confidence in them just pulling them out. It wasn't until the 7th that I got the clip out intact. There's a set of replacement COP connectors on eBay for $40-50 I may try if I run into problems with them popping off or pins popping out, but so far (6 months, 3000 miles), so good.

Here's the red clip. See the smudge on the middle divider? That's the first bump. I used an eyeglass screwdriver between the red clip and black body to let it out easier

View attachment 828469718

Here's the second bump. It's on the other side of the divider and is lower down. When you get the first bump cleared, the clip will out an 1/8". Same as the other side: small screwdriver between clip and shell.

View attachment 828469719

Here's what I did to do it successfully. I put a medium flat tip screwdriver under the clip and over my finger. This put an upward force on the clip, freeing me to just use one hand to hold it all and one to manipulate the eyeglass screwdriver.

View attachment 828469720
 
I am more thankful than I can say for the info from all of you!

(Now all I have to do is wait for a decent day on a weekend so I can both put in new plugs and also do this switcheroo.

KS
 
LSFrank said:
Hite suspiciously sold out of the adapter brackets after that statement.
Click to expand...

I realize this statement might be tongue-in-cheek, but I want to ask anyway, as I ordered everything else I need to do the Accel COP upgrade before I noticed this post. Hite, is it still possible to get the custom mounting brackets?
 
theophile said:
I realize this statement might be tongue-in-cheek, but I want to ask anyway, as I ordered everything else I need to do the Accel COP upgrade before I noticed this post. Hite, is it still possible to get the custom mounting brackets?
Click to expand...

Now that I see the context, that other guy wanted to seal the plug wells INSTEAD of fixing his oil/water leaking problem. You're replacing your VCGs, so that's not an issue. PM him
 
Yeah, that's what I thought too, but just wanted to confirm. PM'ed him on Saturday. I know he's busy.
 
What are the mounting brackets for? If you are talking about using them to secure the coils, I didn't use anything to hold down my coils. The boots hold them in place just fine. My CEL has not come on any since I switched to these Accels.
 
You could also just make little extensions that are reversed themselves in case you later want to go oem, you can just take these off.


DSCN3090_zps2ab64b8f.jpg



You can get connectors here
http://www.weaponxperformance.com/weaponx/catalogv137/auto-connector-kits-c-7.html
 
Alax7 said:
You could also just make little extensions that are reversed themselves in case you later want to go oem, you can just take these off.


You can get connectors here
http://www.weaponxperformance.com/weaponx/catalogv137/auto-connector-kits-c-7.html
Click to expand...

Once you do the work to adapt coils that cost half as much Motorcraft, I can't see why you'd ever go back to OEM :)

Disclaimer: my Accels are still fine, but I don't rack up the mileage that quickly. I do MAYBE 10,000 a year across two cars
 
True. Since the connectors break when trying reverse them, I was going to just cut the wires, flip them, and soldier them. It seems like it would be a pain to do it on it so I just soldiered the little connectors that I bought. Plug n play
 
Since, at least on my screen the illustrations on the WeaponX site are a bit 'sucky' can you tell us which connectors you used?

KS
 
Alax7 said:
True. Since the connectors break when trying reverse them, I was going to just cut the wires, flip them, and soldier them. It seems like it would be a pain to do it on it so I just soldiered the little connectors that I bought. Plug n play
Click to expand...

That's cool, though. You could work with Hite to make an Accel swap package. What was the total cost?
 
cammerfe said:
Since, at least on my screen the illustrations on the WeaponX site are a bit 'sucky' can you tell us which connectors you used?

KS
Click to expand...


The 2 pin connectors. The first 2 on the page are both 2 pin female connectors. I accidentally got a set of each instead of one set of male and one set of female. The male 2 pin connectors are down at the bottom. The top two female connectors are identical, but one uses a green seal and one uses a red seal. One is like an oem version and one is a weaponX version, but they both plug in, they are identical. For the male connectors, it was easy because there is just one type.


Male part # CNK0009
Female # CNK0002
 
LSFrank said:
That's cool, though. You could work with Hite to make an Accel swap package. What was the total cost?
Click to expand...

That would be cool, but people can just order them themselves without needing me. Hite is needed for the brackets though.

The connectors are 4.99 each, a set of 8 males= 40, plus the other end you need female connectors, another 8=40, total cost 80 for the extensions for a plug and play solution, well I guess plus shipping and the wiring.
 
I have the ability to make them myself, but some people don't know how or can justify, say, $120+shipping to make a full plug and play option after saving $200 on coils now and $200 again next time they replace them.

But realistically, it's probably a few years too late to make a difference as these cars dwindle in numbers
 
I have no idea why someone would buy connector extensions. Any mechanic should be able to reverse all 8 stock connectors in about 30 minutes.
 
3.9-LS said:
I have no idea why someone would buy connector extensions. Any mechanic should be able to reverse all 8 stock connectors in about 30 minutes.
Click to expand...

Because you will end up 8 broken connectors. I tries reversing 2, broken before I could finish so I stopped there.
 
the problem is that after years of heat cycles, the plastic gets very brittle and breaks much easier than new harnesses or harnesses that have been protected from the heat by being inside the car...
 
Read my previous post up there with the pictures and have a bit of luck. I don't know why it went to links to the pictures though. The night I posted that, the images were embedded. Not anymore...

But even after knowing how to do it by getting a red retainer out in one piece on connector 7, I still snapped a section on connector 8. It was one of the inside flanges, but it at least locks the plug. Only 3/8 of them lock... I'll eventually get on that with a set of new plugs from eBay since they already have pigtails
 
I'm finally getting around to doing the 'pigtail thing'. I'm sure that somewhere there was a comment that suggested a less expensive alternative for the $5.00 each ends from Weapon-X but I can't find it now. Does anyone have a reference?

KS
 
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