Help! I'm going around the world to the left!

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Wily Dahl

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It all started out simple enough, a pull to the left on braking on my '95 Mark VIII, so I did the brakes - didn't help. I took a chance, and replaced both front calipers (they weren't very expensive, anyway) - didn't help. So I gave up and had a mechanic look at it - "It's the upper control arms, they are shot". The ball joints were really bad, so I replaced them (notice I didn't say "had them replaced", thanks to a thread I found on this forum) - didn't help. So, I took it to another mechanic, who said "the tie rods are bad" (he was right about that, anyway), so I replaced inner and outer (see my previous thread where I begged a little help on that one) - didn't help. I am running out of options. The second mechanic seems to think my brake fluid pressure is good, so it doesn't appear to be the brake lines (I could be wrong). It's a steady pull to the left when braking, and it seems like it wants to pull to the right when I accelerate (though not every time). I still think it is a front-end problem, but what is left that could be bad? - it would be a hidden problem, as the remainder of the front-end parts that are not new don't look shot. Suggestions, anyone, please?

p.s. - alignment is good except when accelerating or braking.
 
You are going to love the answer to that one - what's a strut rod bushing?

I really don't know what I am doing, but I am a quick study (I did manage to replace the upper control arms and inner and outer tie-rods without ever having even looked at a front end before in my life, other than to do brake jobs.....)
 
sounds like a strut rod problem.........get somebody to watch your car while your braking, tell them to keep an eye on the front wheels and watch for movement, front to back.
 
Here Ya go...

Stut Rod.jpg
 
strut rod is the thing that goes from the lower control arm to the frame, the bushings on that thing usually go.....
 
Strut Rod Bushings – Front. If they are worn, the control arms can move and cause the vehicle to pull left or right. If the bushing look like they are cracked or even shiny, they probably have too much play in them.

A second, though less likely problem could be the actual rubber brake lines. The insides start to degrade after time and dislodge a tiny chunk that will block the hole leading to the caliper, obviously reducing brake fluid flow/pressure to the brake piston. Best way to check is with a lazer temperature reader to see if there is a temp difference side to side whiuch will indicate which side is working or not. Or you could pull the wheels and re-bleed the brakes to make sure their is no gunk in the lines. Make sure you keep plenty of fluid in the reservoir if you do bleed so you don't pull air into the system or you'll be really f'd.

You said you put in new calipers, you could always recheck the slides to make sure neither one is hanging up.

I tend to think it is the strut rod bushings, imho.
 
Mine pulls as the car floats up & down on the interstate, you can watch the steering wheel move back & fourth. & if I hold the steering wheel tight, the car swerves left to right with the floating motion. Scary Sh!+. I hit the guiding rail at a carwash with something under the left side of the car.So I replaced the whole front end except for the tie rods & the front left strut rod bushing. The tie rods were still snug with no play. Got it realigned & It didn't solve anything. My brother thinks it's the rack but I hope it's the bushing. Otherwise IDKWTF?
 
uhhhh no thats a strut rod topher5150, a torsion is usually used in place of front springs on f150's, expeditions, rangers,explorers etc.

id say strut rod bushings too. its a easy check, find a shiny car park next to it and move the car forwards and backwards, stopping every couple inches, and watch your reflection, any forward/backward movement of the tire is bad

as for the brake hose, try opening the bleeder screw and see if fluid "shoots" out, usually the brakes have enough psi to force fluid in but cant release the psi out through the line

and lastly, im concerned with "p.s. - alignment is good except when accelerating or braking." good as you took it somewhere and had it set after the tierods/uca's etc or it just seems to drive ok. the slightest change in anything will greatly affect your alignment. also might wanna check strut rod bushings first cuz replacing those is where your caster adjustment is, so it will need an alignment afterwards
 
I'll take a shot at the strut-rod bushings (after everything else I've done, it can't be that hard or expensive, I hope - of course I'll be asking for help if I get stumped) this weekend. I intended to get it aligned, but since it actually drives straight as an arrow at any steady speed (except acceleration & braking), I am inclined to believe that it probably isn't just the alignment alone causing the problem - so I was putting the alignment off until I solve the main problem. I will cross my fingers and give everybody a holler after I'm done (either to thank you for nailing the problem, or to ask what to try next!)

I originally thought it might be the brake lines, but since it wanders pretty bad when I accelerate (usually to the right, though sometimes to the left) I am leaning towards a front-end problem.
 
Just a thought from the far side gallery.
If your getting a "wandering" feeling when you accelerate it might not be related to the front end.
Granted you probably do have a strut rod bushing as mentioned above.

But the wandering under accleration is going to PROBABLY be rear wheel bearings.
Jack up the rear and do a "wiggle test" on the rear wheels.
Grab them at 12 oclock and 6 oclock and see if you can get any movement.
Then to the same at 3 oclock and 9 oclock and see if it wiggles.

Tiffs car had a bad "loose feeling" under hard acceleration and it turned out to be a bad rear hub/bearing assembly.

hope this helps.

Let us know what you find out
 
Yeah actually my car doesn't get the float feeling but it wears the front tires a bit.
 
I'm just thinking he's got more than one thing happening.
Which is why multiple "fixes" didnt' solve the issue.

I agree with his strut rod bushing probably being bad...

He might even have a bad set of "rack and pinion" bushings.

Wily, stick your head under the car.. and have someone run over it {JK)
seriously, look under the front of your car..near the inner tie rod area.
you'll see the two bolts (big ones) that hold the steering rack to the frame.

With the engine OFF, but key on {to unlock the steering wheel) have some one move the wheel back and forth 2-5 inches..while you are looking at the rack and pinion housing.
Does the housing wiggle up and down.. or left to right as the person moves the wheel?
IF so.. you're gonna wanna replace the "rack bushings" as well...

But.. rest assured, once you get finished replacing everything from "stem to stern" you'll have a great riding car.. and it should stay that way for a very long time.
 
I guess it won't hurt to check the rear bearings, but it isn't really "wandering" under acceleration. It's a heavy steady pull, pretty much the same feeling I am getting when braking (only it is pulling the other way). I did check the front bearings, and they seem tight, but I'll check the backs to be safe. I've been concentrating on the front of the car up to this point, and haven't even looked at the rear.
 
You guys are lifesavers!! The strut rod bushings are shot (the wheel was moving forward and back several inches). Soooo, I have the task lined up for the weekend. Any tips, or is it a straightforward job (this coming from someone who had to ask what a strut rod bushing was)? Also, I noticed when I replaced the inner tie-rods that the steering gear was dry. Should I lube it? If so, do I use wheel bearing grease, or what? :D
 
Down some pasta, 'cause it's gonna be a workout, even with a breaker bar.

Edit: use motorcraft bushings for your frame-side bushings; I'm told they last longer than most aftermarket replacements.
 
Mine need replacing as I showed in the video and luckily I was at my friends shop when he had to do them in a T-Bird. He had to take off the strut and the lower to get enough room to put the new bushings in.

When he took the adjustment bolt off on the inner end of the lower arm he marked the snail adjusters so it could be put back without having to get an alignment.

Looked fairly easy but he had a lift he was doing it on. I don't get to do it that easy :mad:
 
wd-40 each day till the weekend

When i bought mine the srb were gone and thought it had something to do with the brakes. Pulled hard left. Took it to my friends shop and had them replaced on both sides along with a ball joint.. Thank god for him as he loosened the lower strut bolts. He had to use a torch and uber amounts of strength. He hated me for it.
 
I'd recommend finding a buddy with a lift, I did mine over a year ago and was lucky enough to have a place with a lift to do it in. Those nuts are usually pretty tight and between me and two other guys, we finally got them to break. If you're going to be doing it yourself without a lift, do yourself a favor and spray the nuts several times, over several days with some penetrating lube to maybe help make them a little easier to remove.

Other than that, good luck, probably wouldn't hurt to have an alignment done after you get them in, seeing as how you've changed almost every other part in the front end.

sbcaprice305 said:
wd-40 each day till the weekend
Click to expand...
Word!
 
To date, the strut rod to frame bushings are my only failure... Just too damn tight for me to do without some proper tools... :(
 
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