Help needed asap!!!!!

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Logan502cards

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Ok so I drive a 2006 lincoln ls that has just turned 86k miles and has drove excellent since I bought it in the summer of 2012 with 57k miles on it. I have taking really good care of her since I bought it, always gone to oxmoor lincoln. This Tuesday I went to the Lincoln dealer and had all 8 coils swapped out, all 8 spark plugs swapped out, cabin air filter, air filter, seat filters (EVERYTHING MOTORCRAFT OEM), and a coolant system flush just for some prevented maintenance. The car ran like a dream for a good 30-40 miles of driving after the work was Done, but it now started to slightly overheat? The fan was very loud trying to cool the engine I'm guessing, but once I turned the heat on the temp gauge and the fan went back to normal. I called the dealer as soon as this happened and I scheduled an appointment at 10am tomorrow and let the advisor know that it's very ironic how the car has never over heated until they serviced my cooling system. She seemed to understand but I feel that this is on them and they should be responsible for taking care of this issue regardless of what they say it is because I know for a fact, had I not had the cooling system flush this wouldn't be an issue. There is no CEL, no drivability issues whatsoever except for this slight over heat? (*Without the heat turned on*)
If anyone who has been in this position and can possibly give me some advise I would greatly appreciate it as I have spent so much money at this dealership it's insane but in all honesty I have gotten good service each time so it's a shame this is happening and I'm going to be sure I bring my lincoln ls folder full of those long expensive receipts/records over the last year to show and tell them how I would like to continue business but I want it done correctly and that's why I come there and I expect them to be fair and honest.... The work they did to my cooling system and my car overheating shortly after is directly related and I believe they need to accept it and take care of this issue for no charge.
Sorry to ramble guys I'm just bummed out as I thought my car was in great shape, only to be let down by this overheat issue. Again sorry for the long post and thank you for any feed back on solutions or maybe a way I should handle The dealership tomorrow?
 
im new to the LS, but sounds to me like they didn't bleed your cooling system down properly.
 
I'mn also new to the LS, and definitely not an expert...but if I had to guess they didn't completely bleed your cooling system out.
Having owned several MR2's I have definitely suffered through half assed bleeding woes.
 
He is correct the system has air in, I would take it back and tell the to properly bleed the system and also make sure there are no cracks in the degas bottle and other locations
 
I have another take on this. Maybe they will cover it, but I wouldn't be upset if they didn't. Your LS is at the age/mileage where you expect all the plastic parts of the cooling system to start cracking and need to be replaced. There's a really good chance that the stress of the coolant flush caused one or more of them to go ahead and crack.

"because I know for a fact, had I not had the cooling system flush this wouldn't be an issue."
I think that your facts are off. If not for the flush, maybe this wouldn't have been an issue for another week or even up to a month, but it was going to be an issue. It's an issue that nearly all of us have had, some more than once.
 
my coolant started to leak today after i was stuck in the driveway at work. in order to get out i had 2 people push me while i almost pushed to the max rpms. it was cold, 3 degrees, and my car was slightly warm. after i got out we noticed that coolant had leaked. after work i filled it up because it was empty, and we noticed that it was leaking right about the water pump around a hose clamp, which hopefully a gasket blew and nothing serious else happened. i drove it home while being followed by my father a couple miles down the road and made it home, however the temperature rose all the way up, started to beep and i shut the car down. now the car won't start so we pushed it into the garage, and reading the manual it appears the engine has a fail safe that won't allow you to start up to prevent damage. i am wondering what your thoughts are and def going to be digging in it tomorrow taking it apart (thankfully i have the day off) to see whats going on. i bought this car last september for 4k from an old dude, fully loaded, 5 speed manual, sunroof and all the bells and whistles, this is a v6 fyi
 
I'm new i don't know how to start a new thread sorry for jumping in someones post but i need help
 
I agree with Joe's concerns.

hopefully, they did not get 100% of the air out when they bled it after flushing it and a proper bleeding or two should fix it.

but there is a chance that there is a small leak (and small enough to let air in but not have coolant drip/pour out which is extremely common) in one of the many plastic part in the cooling system.


now if a part fails, while properly being serviced under standard procedures because it is at the end of its life, then I wouldn't expect the dealer to be on the line for the repair (hopefully they will st least cut you a deal on the work)






now if you problem is a failing coolant pipe, your gonna have two options, first you can just replace that part, then probably be in the same position again a week or month later when the next part fails.or you can be like me and have two parts just fall apart while you taking stuff apart to replace a completely different part then have to wait longer while more parts have to get shipped. or you can do your self a favor and just replace all of the parts at the same time, and only have to do the job once. all of these parts seem to have the exact same lifespan, because once one breaks, they pretty much all do right after another. I was blow away by just how brittle they were and just crumbled in my hands.



Cory: cold, three degrees, and stuck in the snow... would that be Adrian MI? if so, I got a couple of friends out that way...

anyways,
hopefully a clamp just fell off, but your car is definitely old enough for you coolant parts to fail... if thats the case, reveiw above ^

what does slightly warm mean? because its really not a good practice to be pushing the motor almost to it redline long before its properly warmed up.

also that much wheel speed is definitely not going to help you to get unstuck. you need to get some traction to get the car to help you. Otherwise it might have well just been in neutral and you could have had a third person pushing!
if there is one thing i know from plenty of practice, its how to get a LS unstuck fast
 
first of all the LS is a very hard car to work with and most dealers don't service them properly due to the fact that there aren't a lot of them out there. most likely you still have air in the system and the coolant procedure needs to be done 3 or more times. NO ONE gets it at the first try. so you can have them do it again or you can do it yourself but since you paid them have them do it. in the worst case some cooling parts are failing and do yourself a favor if that is the case replace all the cooling parts except the radiator and water pump with new one now while parts are still available. and then your good for another 100k. I have a thread on all the parts you need just do a search.
 
Maybe we're talking about the cute coed neighbor we had...

Most people, especially the factory trained mechanics, accomplish the bleeding procedure correctly every time. The major concern is that the procedure must be read before attempting and then followed correctly. It is NOT a difficult task, unless you refuse to read before attempting.

How is your coolant level? Your degas bottle is at the age of replacement. Most of us have done it. Your coolant parts are probably at that point as well.

My 2006 V8 had a couple of bouts of extreme high coolant temp 2 years ago. No biggie, happened. Turned car off, cooled down and then ran fine. Noticed coolant was low, added and went on my way. This was my 1st sign of the usual degas bottle warning. Then last fall, it happened again. However, this time it kept leaking, only while driving. No signs of coolant when parked, just low coolant levels. Research, and here I am. Bought the MotorCraft unit, with new hoses attached, replacement was simple. Much easier than I feared from reading some of these posts. Shortly thereafter, began the slow failure of the plastic coolant parts. I began their replacement when the weather was extremely cold, bad mistake. However, not a difficult undertaking. Just plan it out, order all of the OEM parts, check your list against what you see, wait for warm weather and get'er done.
 
This whole bleed procedure is not all that difficult if you'll just take a moment to figure out what needs to be done in what order.
I had my whole cooling system apart, replaced all parts including, DCCV, Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump, Degas bottle, Outlet pipe and the Jaguar Thermostat housing upgrade.

When I was ready to start adding fresh coolant to the system, I began with adding at the Thermostat housing fill neck, squeezing the radiator hoses while filling to get the air out.

Started filling at the degas bottle and watched the overflow trickle down to the thermostat housing fill neck, soon as it got right to the very top line, I seal it with the cap, tightened it down and then continued to fill the degas bottle to the cold max line.

Started up the LS, first at low idle, then had a friend hold RPM's close to 3K, every so often I would add to the degas bottle, interior heater fully cranked, started getting lukewarm heat to the interior, kept the bleed line open, closed it a couple of times, waited for the thermostat to open when it got up to temp so it circulated further through the radiator, bleed of some more, topped up the degas some more and then kept opening the bleed valve to see if it was a constant steady stream of coolant with no spurts of air, closed it up and shut the engine off. I let it sit for about 30min while I cleaned up and put things away.

Second start, while cool, added some more coolant to the degas bottle to the max cold line again, brought it up to temp by holding it close to 3K RPM and opened the bleed valve some more for a couple of seconds, lots of interior heat from the new DCCV and Flow pump, no overheating.

quick spin around the block, back into the garage, let it cool down, inspected everything again, looking for leaks, (had to previously rinse with the garden hose to get rid of some coolant spills) made sure, it was all cleaned up, nothing dripping or leaking at the seams. Topped up the degas just a little more to the line.

Next day, started it up again, short drive, back into the garage, nothing leaking, level in degas not going down, still lots of heat to the interior.

Never had to touch it again. Did not have to keep rebleeding it constantly. I bleed the air out that day and never had to redo it.

I felt I managed well on this bleed procedure because of a few important steps: 1) helped the new coolant through by squeezing the hoses, which caused it to burp the air back out the fill neck as I was adding it, could also hear it run throughout as it was being added. 2) had RPM's held up while I was adding coolant. 3) kept doing it until it was up to temp while the thermostat opened and completely got all the coolant in and around.

Overall, the coolant bleed procedure wasn't all that bad, didn't take all that long, everything was triple checked and zero problems since.

Obviously have a catch bucket underneath to catch coolant from the bleed valve while performing the bleed procedure.
Just have to push all the air through the entire system but there shouldn't be that much if you managed to burp it while adding coolant.
 
Ok sorry I haven't gotten back to you guys with an update. Thanks for the help btw!.... But yea as many of u said, they didn't get all of the air out and said they repeated the process of getting the air out several times before they found something about my thermostat or thermostat housing being cracked. I was very bummed out by this as I had jus spent over $1500.00 in parts and labor. (Had all 8 coils (motorcraft) spark plugs, all filters, cabin, air, including seat filters along with the cooling system flush and few other things) I was ok with spending the money as I had planned on this expense for a long time jus becuase I knew that between 80-90k miles would be a good time for that extensive tune-up we all talk about with replacing the coils plugs, and fluid flushes. But anyway, the advisor at the dealer knew I was kinda fed up after having all of that work done and still having problems, but she was very nice and polite and charged me no labor and split the cost of the thermostat or thermostat housing (forgot exactly what they said it was) but it was about another 5-600$ fix (parts & labor) the part was $200 something and she only ended up charging me $145 even. Once I picked her up on Thursday she's been driving like a dream, and no dash lights whatsoever! so having said that, I'm really hoping its just oil changes and maybe a set of brake pads for the next few years at least lol.
 
Degas, DCCV, and Thermostat/housing will all cause the same symptoms or issue, and I definitely feel your pain. I just had the DCCV replaced, and should have done it myself - just didn't have the time. It's frustrating when you have to fork out about $700 for a dealership to take care of when you are capable of doing the job yourself for about $150. :mad:
I'm now waiting for a power steering intake line (not the pressure line) to come off of national back-order so I can get the annoying whine taken care of due to a slight amount of air in the line from a leak at the fitting.

I had to replace the thermostat and housing about a year and a half ago - wish that I did the Jag housing upgrade at that time. :sad:

Glad you're back on the road, and sorry that your pocketbook is lighter like mine,

Tru
 
We feel your pain! Been there done that! Yet even though there is more to come, we keep our cars. Try doing some of the work yourself next time. I found that some dealers farm out their auto work to universal shops down the street. They just mark up the work and give it back to you. If the shop mucks up your car, the dealer again drives your car down the street and tells them to fix it. Those shops work on cars from multiple dealerships in the area. Their mechanics know nothing about the LS oddities. Yes, you had air in the system.
 
tireman said:
We feel your pain! Been there done that! Yet even though there is more to come, we keep our cars. Try doing some of the work yourself next time. I found that some dealers farm out their auto work to universal shops down the street. They just mark up the work and give it back to you. If the shop mucks up your car, the dealer again drives your car down the street and tells them to fix it. Those shops work on cars from multiple dealerships in the area. Their mechanics know nothing about the LS oddities. Yes, you had air in the system.
Click to expand...

Never heard of this before. Seems like there would be serious liability issues here.
 
My local lincoln dealer did this to me. Went to pick up the car and found out it was being repaired elsewhere. The car was returned, not only incorrectly repaired, but with body damage. Believe me, they paid for the damage.
 
Logan502cards said:
I'm really hoping its just oil changes and maybe a set of brake pads for the next few years at least lol.
Click to expand...

well if they only replaced the plastic cooling parts that were actually leaking, you will be dealing with this again very soon...

all of the plastic parts have about the same life span, once one begins to fail the rest will soon follow. If I were you, I would find out exactly what parts/parts were replaced so that you can make a list and be ready to go when that time comes. since its already done and back together, you don't need to tear it apart and do it right away (but then again, you may have to...) but I would have my cart full of everything I would need on rock auto or ford parts giant so when it does happen, you all set.
 
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