HELP!!!!! out of money and ideas MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON TWO WEEKS AGO AFTER MODDING

Sapperfire said:
That just means he has chopsticks in his toolbox
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:lol: Bow that was funny rite der, I dont car who ya are. :lol:


And yeah, I didnt question his mechanical ability, just his lack of being able to properly explain the issues at hand. I can see by his post he knows most basics of car work.

I too was once a ricer. I have rebuilt Rotary engines many times (not many people in the WORLD have) and I have built many import cars. You can run without cats on a SR20DET (out of a Silvia) cause they were never made to domestic emission standards thus no cats wont effect their A/F calibrations and readings.
Also since I had a S4 with the 2.7 Bi-Turbo I can tell you that with an APR chip you can run without cats as well.

Unfortunatly this is a car that was made only for Americans and it has been tuned with only America in mind. No cats does not allow the rear O2 sensors to read properly. The rear O2 sensors are a checking system to make sure the front O2 sensors are opperating correctly. If you remove the cats you MUST tell the computer they are no longer there and not to look for them by telling it to ignore the rear O2 readings...... or lack of. I have a wideband in my second O2 location and have the second O2s turned off. I still have my cats though...... not sure why. :lol:
MAF clocking is important too. It should be in the same oreintation it was when you had the stock air box on the car. Also depending on the new cone filter size and how far back it is then the car could (and will) get bad MAF readings because the filter is getting hit by the cooling fan air. The MAF will see flow and there shouldnt be any flow cause you are off the throttle. It sees flow and commands fuel but since the motor isnt actually getting air it kinda floods out for a split second.
While I have an exposed air filter (i didnt want it) I have it placed so far forward that the fans air wont hit it. Really the stock air box will offer the same (if not more) power then a cone air filter.

As for the speedo sweep, I dont know. I have seen my car do a needle sweep when restoring power after a long time without power and I turn it on for the first time. Did you remove the gauges for any reason? If you pulled the cluster and got the speedo pointing one way and the tach pointing the other then on first start when they calibrate themselves it may have freaked out a little.
 
i found the problem the wiring harness coming from the ecu was being melted by the exhaust manifold not bad yet ecu questionable I said I could do it just time.
 
MTC said:
i found the problem the wiring harness coming from the ecu was being melted by the exhaust manifold not bad yet ecu questionable I said I could do it just time.
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Uhhhhhhhhh........, ummmmmm,....... good work?
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Not sure. I think in his other thread he may or may not have mentioned it. I would like to help but reading his posts are like setting my crotch on fire and having 3 people stomp the fire out.
 
take off the tune... get a OBD-1 Ford Scanner and diagnose.

Things I always replace are 02 sensors... if you run a k and n style cone filter, watch for the oil getting on the MAFS. If you do, the MAFS cleaner is very handy but you'll need some kinda weird torx bit IIRC to actually get the Mass Air Flow Sensor its self out.

I know for a fact though that my EGR is a bit busted but it never caused a CEL (along with the evap). i would say the 02's are very important in my opinion rather than the rest of the stuff.

I also like to unplug stuff to see if the CEL will come up. Then again this is for OBD-1 style vehicles. OBD-II is a bit more sophisticated.
 
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