Help with removing the engine, please!

W

warrioralumni08

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 29, 2011
Messages
740
Reaction score
7
Location
Oklahoma
Hello everyone, I joined on here and have been lurking around for while, just searching on random things, and gaining knowledge. =] So, me and my father are starting to tear the engine down....it needs to be rebuilt. I must say, it looks easy at first glance, then we were like what in the hell did I just buy this car for? Lol. Had a hell of time getting the drivers side valve cover off, it's so damn tight back there. We discovered there is not much really room on the driver side to do anything. Worked a constant 11 hours to tear it down. Didn't get far, just so many things he and I haven't seen, let alone a DOHC motor. Well, the car is one some big wood round blocks at the moment, they are about 2 feet tall, different blocks in the back, but same height. We were trying to remove the intake manifold, but discovered the EGR tube was not letting it go, so I crawled under and tried to free it, but I can't get a good angle or big enough wrench. It's pretty much the only thing keeping the engine from being removed through the top , plus the motor mounts and transmission bolts. We have no idea where they are at on this car (motor mounts)? :/ What do they look like? We have a engine hoist, couple jack stands, alot of wood blocks, 2 jacks. Father wants to try and just lower the engine with the k-member instead through the bottom, think we can achieve this, with the above stated equipment? So can anyone tell us how this is done and which way would be easier for us? How about the transmission bolts? Looks like a tight squeeze and how many are there? Can you just lower the K-member and access other important parts for engine removal through the top? Please excuse my semi-knowledge of cars, not everyone was born with automotive talent. =[ It's a '94 Mark VIII by the way. Maybe someone could just come travel down to southeast Oklahoma and teach us. =]
 
Every post I have seen were they remove the motor on a mark they take it out of the bottom.
 
Listen to your father.

Get good jack stands, get the car up in the air, pull k member.
Drop out the bottom with trans attached to the engine.

derriksmotor041.jpg
 
Look through sapperfire and laser svt's posts. Those guys have every step documented and photographed. They can probably pull the thing out in record time with their eyes closed!!
 

OMG I HAVE SOOOO BEEN THERE. Just be patient, it is worth all the work...
 
You can drop the motor out in under two hours if you are a novice. Sapperfire and I timed our last one and it took 42 minutes.

I have no idea why you are romoving intake and valve covers and EGR. Wrong wrong wrong.

Im gonna give you a basic rundown on how to do it:

1. Jack the car up on all four corners..... use jack stands.
2. Drop the fuel tank
3. Drop the exhaust after the cat on drivers side and before the cat on the passenger side.
4. Unbolt the four 12mm bolts from driveshaft to diff and remove shaft.
5. Put the rear back down.
6. Remove hood.
7. Unbolt struts from shock towers, seperate UCAs from spindle, remove front calipers and hang them out of the way, remove wheel speed sensors.
8. Remove radiator, fan, alt, crossover tube. Disco fuel lines (or fuel rail and place on windshield)
9. Attach engine hoist to where the alt bolts to the block.
10. Unbolt all 8 k-member bolts.
11. Disco rag joint and push steering shaft up as far as can into firewall
12. Disco main harness on drivers side.
13. Unbolt power wires and three small plugs from under fuse box.
14. Unbolt ground strap on passenger side.
15. Remove the two small fluid cooling lines on drivers side under where the radiator was at.
16. Remove strap for power steering line.
17. Remove k-member bolts.
18. Disco trans harness and shift linkage
19. Place rolling pallet under k-member
20. Unbolt trans cross member
21. Use engine hoist to slowly drop trans and motor and k-member down onto rolling pallet.
22. Disco engine hoist from motor and attach to radiator support, use strap and not a chain.
23. Lift nose of the car up untill the rear bumper almost hits the ground.
24. Slide motor and trans out sideways.
25. Open beer.
26. Drink

IMGP1577.jpg

IMGP1633.jpg

IMGP1638.jpg

IMGP1638.jpg

IMGP1640.jpg

IMGP1641.jpg

IMGP1642.jpg

IMGP1644.jpg

IMGP1718.jpg

IMGP1720.jpg

IMGP1722.jpg

IMGP1727.jpg

IMGP1729.jpg

IMGP1734.jpg
 
Thanks everyone, especially you Laser. Pictures really help out. Also, there any wires I should be aware of that I may not see with the eye that I would have to unplug? What about the A/C lines? :/ Nice valve covers also, what color are they? Seem to be white, then look silver.
 
The valve covers were done in high temp titanium.

I did forget about the AC. I normally disco the lines right in front of the compressor but you can also get away with unbolting the compressor and shoving it in front of the motor. I didnt wanna risk breaking or scratching anything so I usually just take the lines off.

As for wires its just the ones I stated. Primary power to the fuse box, primary to the battery, battery chasis ground, three plugs under the fuse box, ground strap on the passenger side and main harness connection next to the brake booster and a couple trans plugs that are above the trans.
 
I saw the rag joint. Is there just one bolt holding it? If not, do I access the others by turning the steering wheel? Sorry for so many questions. :/
 
It has two bolts. You only need to remove one though, the upper one. That will allow you to push the steering shaft a bit into the firewall for Clarence. You still have to be careful dropping the motor. You will drop it a little, wiggle it forward a couple inches and then drop some more. The steering shaft will want to catch on the EGR tube so be careful.
 
Finally, great success!! =] Now I just have to rebuild it and put it all back together. :/ Some reason my steering shaft would not go inside the firewall, I pushed and pushed as hard as I could, but it just would not go. (haha sounds like sex) So it pretty much consisted of lowering the motor and pulling it forward multiple times. Glad I took the valve covers off. =]

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h363/justmejamie/Photo0197.jpg

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h363/justmejamie/Photo0198.jpg
 
1LoudLS said:
nice jackstands ;)
Click to expand...

Haha, well failed air suspension equals, not any room at all to jack the car up in the front. So, a rim and a couple of blocks worked fine! =] They also made sure the car was not gonna go anywhere in the back. If it were just jack stands, I am sure the car would have landed on the ground. :/ Wait till you see what's holding it up in the front! :D
 
How did you even get it up on the rims in the first place with the car being so low?

I have done the samething before myself with a truck.They work.
 
Hey Bill, try to get the next motor out in under half an hour...you go ahead and start while I head to your place...you should be done and about 20 minutes into break before I get there ;D

Hahaha I still remember the nervous/uncertain look you had on your face when I offered to help swap the motor in the white 98. Now you're all 1,2,3 piece of cake :D
Good Times
 
K.B.R said:
How did you even get it up on the rims in the first place with the car being so low?

I have done the samething before myself with a truck.They work.
Click to expand...

Put some 2x4's in front of all of the tires, and drove up on them, which gave enough clearance to jack it up, with one of them crappy jacks that come with your car, that you have to turn by hand, then used a real jack.

For the front, these are holding it up. =]

Photo0208.jpg
 
GMAN said:
Great work there. What are your plans for the rebuild?
Click to expand...

Buy all new gaskets and hopefully that's it and clean the engine lol. My brother took the block to a machine shop to have it "miked" I believe is the term? So, he will have the news for me when he gets back. I'll buy new pistons and piston rings, water pump, injectors, couple of pulleys, crank bearings and rod bearings. Just to get the engine back to running in good condition. The driver side Imrc's, pistons and valves were horrible! Here are some pics for comparison. Supposedly my car was just running on four cylinders. =/ I guess the previous owner just never changed the oil or anything on the car, that upsets me. =/ Any advice on how to clean the Imrc's? The heads?

Driver side Imrc's

Photo0209.jpg


Photo0210.jpg


Driver side heads

Photo0211.jpg


Photo0212.jpg


Passenger side heads

Photo0213.jpg


Photo0214.jpg
 
You plan on sending the heads to the machine shop too? The heads will need to be pressure tested, and have a valve job done.

So you plan to go with a basic rebuild? Now would be a good time to think about an intake swap. There are a few members with cobra intakes. They will bolt right up to the heads. You'll have to modify your hood though.
 
Keep up the good work man! Where you at in OK? I'm up in Tulsa/Broken Arrow.
 
GMAN said:
You plan on sending the heads to the machine shop too? The heads will need to be pressure tested, and have a valve job done.

So you plan to go with a basic rebuild? Now would be a good time to think about an intake swap. There are a few members with cobra intakes. They will bolt right up to the heads. You'll have to modify your hood though.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply, been busy with work and just detailing things on the engine to get all the rust off. =]

Anyhow, yes, pretty much a basic rebuild. As for the cobra intake swap, not finding any around my area, nor on Ebay. =/ So, it looks like a no at the moment, and I hear there is really no point in swapping the first gen intake out for a cobra one.

As for the heads, my brother took them down to Texas, to test them. So far, the block came out fine and so did the crankshaft. =] So far, so good and let's hope it stays that way!
 
Mark8Murder said:
Keep up the good work man! Where you at in OK? I'm up in Tulsa/Broken Arrow.
Click to expand...

Thanks Murder! Oh, just in a small town down in Southeast Oklahoma about 5 hours away from Tulsa lol. I bought my car in Stillwater, you may have ran across the posting on CL. Was a 94 Black Mark VIII but had a failed air suspension, turned out to more then that though. =[
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Buy all new gaskets and hopefully that's it and clean the engine lol. My brother took the block to a machine shop to have it "miked" I believe is the term? So, he will have the news for me when he gets back. I'll buy new pistons and piston rings, water pump, injectors, couple of pulleys, crank bearings and rod bearings. Just to get the engine back to running in good condition. The driver side Imrc's, pistons and valves were horrible! Here are some pics for comparison. Supposedly my car was just running on four cylinders. =/ I guess the previous owner just never changed the oil or anything on the car, that upsets me. =/ Any advice on how to clean the Imrc's? The heads?
Click to expand...
Don't forget, you need new head bolts since they are torque to yield.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 153 (members: 1, guests: 152)
Back
Top