Help with removing the engine, please!

I always wonder how to get that motor out. Great pictures, chit, make we fell that I could do the damm thang.
 
Yay for soot! =]

Egr Valve
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I don't know what to call this one. =/
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Oh, and my EGR tube broke in half at the flexible part. Where can I get another, or do I have to make one myself?
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Thanks Murder! Oh, just in a small town down in Southeast Oklahoma about 5 hours away from Tulsa lol. I bought my car in Stillwater, you may have ran across the posting on CL. Was a 94 Black Mark VIII but had a failed air suspension, turned out to more then that though. =[
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I did see that thing on there, looked pretty clean body wise from the pics, hopefully you got a good deal on it since you're dumping this much time and $$ in it....
 
What is the routing of the strap to attach the hoist to the radiator support? Is it the upper radiator support that is used to lift the nose of the car? I am about to drop the K member.
 
Pull the "running end" of the strap from bumper towards engine bay, should feed under the support just to the sides of the condenser.
Position the strap as it runs across the top of the support slightly behind the hood latch.
Your straps tails should be inside the engine bay end even in length, then connect the tails to your hoist
 
Sapperfire said:
Pull the "running end" of the strap from bumper towards engine bay, should feed under the support just to the sides of the condenser.
Position the strap as it runs across the top of the support slightly behind the hood latch.
Your straps tails should be inside the engine bay end even in length, then connect the tails to your hoist
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he speaks wisdom...
 
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Best pics I could find just yet, hope those help, I'll dig around for the ones when we did the swap in my 93
 
Well today was awesome! After finally getting the engine back in, and hooking everything up except the fuel tank and drive shaft, had to take it right back out!! :mad: Damn crank pulley wasn't moving at all, so I couldn't put the torque converter nuts on. Turned out to be I believe, only one stud, on the torque converter, went into one hole on the flywheel, and that was it. So, that's why it wouldn't turn I believe. I must say though, I want to thank everyone who has helped me out on here! In 3 months, I have learned alot, and removing the engine this time was a piece of cake, and so is putting it back together now. I learned not to disconnect so many hoses, sensors, etc. =p Should be up and running by the weekend. I can't wait and will try to get a video of it. Hope she fires right up! :shifty:
 
Just make sure you ( Key on, Key off) a few times to pressurize the fuel system, and do a Very good inspection for any fuel leaks before you roll it to start

Perhaps NoLimit could share a photo?
 
Well folks, she fired up today! =D Didn't get to drive her though, no rear shocks. =[ Will order some from local auto parts store and shall get here Tuesday. Brother removed the 3rd catalytic converter and muffler and tig welded an exhaust together for me, but we kept the stock mufflers for now. =[ Barely sounds a bit different but you can tell. Also, found a couple leaks, damn crossover pipe o rings! Leaking from all 3 places lol. Anybody know what size they are? Just glad she runs so smooth. :D Been waiting for this for a long time! :D
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Negative, ghostrider. 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.
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You should always run it thru the gears. This way you know the converter and trans are OK. Also the 2000rpm 20 minutes is a flat tappet cam thing not roller cam thing like your motor. Good to hear she's running again!
 
LaserSVT said:
You can drop the motor out in under two hours if you are a novice. Sapperfire and I timed our last one and it took 42 minutes.

I have no idea why you are romoving intake and valve covers and EGR. Wrong wrong wrong.

Im gonna give you a basic rundown on how to do it:

1. Jack the car up on all four corners..... use jack stands.
2. Drop the fuel tank
3. Drop the exhaust after the cat on drivers side and before the cat on the passenger side.
4. Unbolt the four 12mm bolts from driveshaft to diff and remove shaft.
5. Put the rear back down.
6. Remove hood.
7. Unbolt struts from shock towers, seperate UCAs from spindle, remove front calipers and hang them out of the way, remove wheel speed sensors.
8. Remove radiator, fan, alt, crossover tube. Disco fuel lines (or fuel rail and place on windshield)
9. Attach engine hoist to where the alt bolts to the block.
10. Unbolt all 8 k-member bolts.
11. Disco rag joint and push steering shaft up as far as can into firewall
12. Disco main harness on drivers side.
13. Unbolt power wires and three small plugs from under fuse box.
14. Unbolt ground strap on passenger side.
15. Remove the two small fluid cooling lines on drivers side under where the radiator was at.
16. Remove strap for power steering line.
17. Remove k-member bolts.
18. Disco trans harness and shift linkage
19. Place rolling pallet under k-member
20. Unbolt trans cross member
21. Use engine hoist to slowly drop trans and motor and k-member down onto rolling pallet.
22. Disco engine hoist from motor and attach to radiator support, use strap and not a chain.
23. Lift nose of the car up untill the rear bumper almost hits the ground.
24. Slide motor and trans out sideways.
25. Open beer.
26. Drink

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I know this is an Old Post but I was hoping you could still help me with some information, I am trying to gain access to the brake proportioning valve. Is it possible to unbolt the K member and upper control arms and lower the engine enough to gain access to the brake proportioning valve or am I going to have to do a full disconnect and engine removal?
 
I thought all years the proportion valve was on the front drivers side behind the inner fender towards the rear of the front wheel
 
I removed inner fender and it's all unibody behind the inner Fender with no access to the proportioning valve, the exhaust manifold the steering column and wiring harness are all in the way from the bottom
 
It looks like I'm going to have to drop the engine, I'm just wondering if I can unbolt the K member and lower the engine without disconnecting and draining everything enough to get at it ?
 
I've read that the Mark 8s had a recall on the cruise control switch because of a leak that would spray onto the exhaust manifold and cause fire, that switch is mounted on the front of the proportioning valve, I wish I knew the procedure the Dealer's followed to replace that switch
 
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