Here's one you dont hear all the time. My car is running GREAT and NOT overheating..

No but I'll get it over to my friend this afternoon who owns a shop and pressure tester. Will that pinpoint where the leak is? Because I'm not dripping anywhere at all..
 
BrilliantPsycho said:
Question. If I have air getting into my intake manifold. Would that cause this issue?
Click to expand...

Most of the purpose of the intake manifold is to get metered air into the engine. There's no coolant in the intake manifold.
 
Is it even possible that it's the degas cap? If I squeeze the hoses that's where I hear air come out of believe it or not .. but I'll get it to the shop this afternoon and get to the bottom of it
 
A couple of places to check would be A/C drain (heater core), but you would smell coolant in the car. Also check under the front passenger carpet. I've seen other cars leak there when the heater core or connection to the heater core leaks. Have you check the oil to see if it's milky? (head gasket or internal crack). Have you noticed any steam coming out the exhaust? (head gasket or internal crack).

I agree with joegr, if it's not building pressure then there is a leak or the degas bottle and/ or cap is defective or not making a good seal.
 
BrilliantPsycho said:
Is it even possible that it's the degas cap? If I squeeze the hoses that's where I hear air come out of believe it or not .. but I'll get it to the shop this afternoon and get to the bottom of it
Click to expand...

Yes. The degas cap is not supposed to vent until it gets to 15 or 16 PSI. When I checked mine, it was right on the money at 16 PSI. Issues have been reported with Dorman bottles and caps. Both have to be Ford or both have to be Dorman (If Dorman, do count on it working long).
 
Foolish as this may sound, from the strange things I have run into as non mechanic but of personal experience and having replacing most entire cooling system except heater core in 97 Sable LS 4 cam V-6. The symptoms you have stated sound like intermittent gasket or hose failure. Perhaps even a poor or dying (wear or other issue) water pump or the heater pump has corroded and become clogged. The part tends to become corroded and fails to provide hot water pressure to heater core and if understand it helps temp control to be more fine tuned especially if dual zone climate control system on your LS. Sometimes it sounds as if you have near internal leak such as between block and head but not near oil passage. When radiator pressure tries to build but can not almost acting like defective radiator cap. Seems as if no air is getting into system but seal has started leaking very small amount of fluid and probably all pressure but not enough to overheat or cause heater to stop working. Are you getting hot air from heater at idle but when engine is first under a load or at higher RPM heater is not staying with hot air but heater puts out warm air only not hot until back at idle for some time? If the "heater pump" control is clogged it could be losing system pressure via crack or one of several 6? small hoses loses its seal to heater core or ?? or one of small hoses itself has just developed small crack from old age and being moved around during another repair. This is total guess on my part as am not close to being mechanic and have had 1st LS only few months. Just tossing out few different ideas as car is not overheating, seems to have no or very low system pressure but heater blows hot air. You are correct, something is wrong in cooling system. Best of luck and it is fact that the time and work you have started to put into car with your repairs does make your LS far more valuable and putting your own effort brings a great deal of pride in your machine when time and understanding of LS lets you realize the LS is far more impressive when personal bond starts. Best of luck and hope it turns out to be easy fix.
 
Well i went to head out yesterday to get that pressure test.. aaaaaaaaaaaaaand, now shes overheating. No pressure in the upper radiator hose. No pressure when i take off the degas cap. But not one drip coming out of anywhere except for when she starts boiling .. and then i get that drip where it all started, right beneath the degas bottle. Im just gonna get her towed to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose it. My brain hurts.
 
I'm sorry but this is hilarious to me... that your post title is so ironic.

You may not SEE drips but you have a leak. There were two times I had overheating issues, saw no leaking but it was indeed leaking. Sometimes it takes special circumstances to get the system to force out coolant... long story short air is getting in somehow (through a crack or tiny hole) and causing your car to overheat. Color me skeptical, but you're saying you do see leaks behind the driver side wheel and that is a tell tale sign that the degas is leaking. Are you absolutely sure you replaced the degas with a motorcraft bottle? I, not knowing any better, did not replace my degas with a motorcraft one and used the Dorman. It lasted less than 6 months and I barely drive my LS.
 
Agreed, system is leaking if pump is good. Sometimes is better for fresh set of eyes, and maybe it is simply small leak that most times has no fluid moving in it anyway but if coolant tank is fine and water pump is fine then has to be running hotter than gauge shows and maybe is time to start over from day one it started and list what was done and if changed anything or not. Take care and good luck,:) .
 
Sorry the thermostat wasn't the issue. Question, how does the exhaust smell? If it has a sweetish antifreezy smell to it I'd have a worse possibility for you. Good luck with it.
 
The OP already posted that he replaced the degas bottle BUT it was never specified if it was a brand new OEM bottle with cap or not.

Mentioned couple of times it's dripping behind the drivers front wheel from the bottle area.

As before and repeated by several, the system is not able to maintain pressure due to a leak in the closed looped system.

This is the part where when these LS'es start having overheating problems, EVERYTHING must be replaced with brand new OEM stuff in order to get a win out of this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 92 (members: 0, guests: 92)
Back
Top