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JERSEYLINCOLNKING

JERSEYLINCOLNKING

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i have just bought a 2004 lincoln ls v8 about 2 months ago n i have just put a system in it.i have a jl 1000/1 amp with a 13 w7 runnin off stop headunit.i have a 1.2 farad cap and after i put the system in,my check engine light cam on and i have ignition codes,coil packs,misfire,battery,etc.now my ? to u guys is did anyone else have this problem,im guessing its drainin to much power?please help
 
Welcome. Coils are common issue on these cars. I don't think that it's got anything to do with your system.

You still have warranty? If no, you can change em out yourself, not too hard on a V8.
 
well hear is the thing,i had the same problem when i put the system in the first time and the light came on and they said the same things,and then i took the system out and the next day the light went off and i got my car scanned at work because i work at a ford dealership and my car was fine.also i just got it checked again today and it shows to be more of draining power then anything.i was told the jl amp needs a lot of power to handle the 13 so i didnt know if anyone had to put a extra battery in or something
 
Like Adrian posted before, the JL 1000/1 has a 100 amp current draw. The Gen1 stock LS alternator is 105 amp (not sure what the Gen2 is). You probably need a H/O alternator. Does your car misfire only when you turn the music up?
 
HyeLifeLS said:
Welcome. Coils are common issue on these cars. I don't think that it's got anything to do with your system.
Click to expand...
COP problems are not common on 2nd Gen LSes (except for the '03s). If that amp is pulling 100A, I'm thinking that's the problem; IIRC, the 2nd Gen alternator is only ~150A. IIRC, Quik has a 200A alternator, and a few guys have added capacitors and a second battery to handle the load.
 
with your power cap all you need to add is a optima battery and you should be ok, you can get away without getting a H/O alt.
 
That amp is power hungry! I believe the 1st and 2nd gen LSs use the same 105 amp alt.

Money doesn't seem to be much of an object since ur sub and amp alone prob cost u like a G. So do this...

1 Remove the capacitor, sure it stores power, however you dont have sufficient power to store. Its another load on your electrical system.

2 Big 3 will help with the current draw. For that amp i would use at least 2g wire. 1 Alternator (+) to Battery (+). 2 Alternator bracket to Motor. Motor or alternator bracket to Chassis. Don't replace stock wires add to them.

3 Even if the big 3 helped, with that amp i would suggest a HO alt. I just got a quote a few weeks ago for one. Its the same company that built Quik LS' 200amp alt....

4 If you ever play your system with the engine off then get a deep cycle battery.

This is a response I got from an email. I was about to buy it till someone on this forum needed to get rid of one..
From: DB Electrical
To: Adrian
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: high output alternator

We can supply a 220-amp alternator for your 2001 LS! Your cost for this direct – fit high output alternator with a one-year warranty is $229.00 plus $15.00 shipping. The output at idle is 125 amps and full 220 amp output is achieved at 1500 rpm. Our part number is 8256-220 amp.

This is an exact fit alternator sold outright with no core charge! To order just call us at 800-753-2242, we accept all major credit cards or you can send the funds using Paypal to dbelectrical@comcast.net. Or if you like, we can send you a Paypal invoice. Just let us know.

Thanks, Mike

DB Electrical
5359 Kingsport Hwy
Gray TN 37615
Call toll free 800-753-2242
www.db-starter-alternator.com

For God so loved the world that he gave his one
and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall
not perish but have eternal life.
----- Original Message -----
From: Adrian
To: dbelectrical@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 6:50 PM

i need a 200amp alternator for a 2001 lincoln ls with a 3.9l v8 how much would it cost shipped to 93230 california?
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i also have a W7 with the 1000/1, they love power you need to through everything you can at it but your first step into this is an optima battery. buy one of those and then see what happens before you do anything else
 
the power wire goes directly from the battery to the amp, it doesnt matter if the car is on or off you need the strong battery
 
05BlackLSE... I know a substantial amount about automotive electrical systems... I used to be a mechanic, I've had to troubleshoot extensive electrical issues and I have ASE certifications (although I never pursued one in automotive electrical)...

The battery WILL NOT solve his power problems. The reason for this is simple... MOST vehicle electrical systems have about 20% or so extra capacity (it does very by model; some significantly more, some are straining with what they have). But applying this rule to the LS with a 105amp alternator, that leaves you with about 21amps left over when you're running at typical full load (headlights, fogs, A/C, fan on max... you get the point).

Okay now, a bit of explanation about batteries; they are simply storage devices for electrical current. When your vehicle is running, the battery is not actually used; you can remove it if you like and your car, and all of it's accessories will still function as normal... so long as you do not turn off your car. What your car (and all of it's accessories, to include the stereo) is running on would be your alternator. NOT the battery.

Try this, remove the battery and crank that big stereo... see what happens. Car dies right? You know why it died? Because the stereo draw exceeded the supply capacity of the alternator, which then did not have enough power to supply the ignition with the amperage and voltage required to fire during the ignition phase which happens just as the compression stroke is ending... starting the power stroke... with no power stroke, the engine does not run. (don't actually try that, stands a good chance you'll damage your alternator and ECU in the process as you'll be inducing current spike)

Okay, so put in a bigger battery; you'll have more electricity stored!!! No, not exactly... Unlike a fuel tank where you can just simply add more at a later time when it's convenient... electrical current is constant. Simply put, what that means is when you take power away from the battery, part of the alternator's job is to replace it; because the voltage will attempt to remain constant throughout the electrical system. It's impossible for a conventional vehicle's battery to have a voltage reading lower than the rest of the electrical system. In order for this to happen, you'd have to run a battery isolator (essentially this is an electronic device that only allows current to flow one way).

So what are you left with? You're left with a vehicle and amp that require a supply of somewhere in the ballpark of 150-179amps depending on how loud the stereo is and what accessories in the vehicle you're running. Bigger and more batteries will, at best only give you a bit more time before the problems show up. But, when you are drawing more amperage than your source can supply... doesn't matter how many storage devices (batteries, capacitors, flux capacitors...) you have, you are still dealing with a constantly decreasing voltage because electrical current is always constant. When an alternator puts out 14.4 volts (typical voltage supply) with a capacity for 105amps, it will maintain 14.4 volts across the entire system (battery included) as long as the demand does not exceed 105amps. Once you start to get a mean (read: averaged) draw exceeding 105amps, the reserves of your battery(s) comes into play. The reserve capacity/amp hour rating of the battery and averaged draw on the system will determine at what rate the system voltage will decrease, but one thing is for sure... it will steadily decrease, does not matter how good of a battery you run.

The situation noted above has more than one downside to it... First you'll notice I said averaged (mean) draw... I say that because a stereo system does not have a consistent draw; it changes with highs and lows in the music. This is where a stiffening cap can at times help... Stiffening caps were never designed to solve an excess draw situation... they were designed to help protect the alternator from times of extreme draw, but where the averaged draw does not exceed system capacity. See, these spikes (the hard hitting bass) in draw are practically the equivalent of thumping your alternator with a hammer; it doesn't take long before the voltage regulator burns up in this situation from being forced to constantly adjust output. A stiffening cap of the CORRECT SIZE (and 1.5 farad is no where near big enough when running an amp with a 100amp draw) will help to smooth out the draw on the system so you're not getting these massive surges which have a tendency to make the regulators cry for mercy and expire very early in life. THAT is the ONLY purpose for a cap; it discharges and recharges it's stored current VERY quickly... acting somewhat as a shock absorber for your electrical system. Just like a suspension though... a shock absorber will not support the car; for this you require a spring or torsion bar of some type. This is your alternator. (notice I said nothing of the alternator... that is because once your car is started THE BATTERY IS NOT USED!)

Sencond downside is the lack of a steady, well regulated supply of current to the ECU and ignition... which on the LS are both very sensitive and don't like something else stealing their current supply.


LONG STORY SHORT:
A better battery will never hurt, but it will not solve your problems; it will however allow you to run your stereo with the vehicle off for a while. The ECU on the LS is very sensitive to voltage. What's happening is you're pulling your system voltage extremely low and this is sending the ECU into a frenzy. The ONLY solution to this issue is a larger alternator. The downside is, your electrical system from the factory only has the ability to carry so much current. Think of it as a water hose; at a specific pressure (voltage), you can only flow so many gallons a minute (amperage) out of a specific diameter (gauge) hose. So, when you need a higher flow... first thing you have to do is replace the pump (alternator), then you've got to get bigger hoses (wire) as well.

As someone else said, get a 200+amp alternator and upgrade the big three to 2ga or better. 200amps will be more than you need, but look at it this way; your amp draws 100amps... the car currently has a 105amp alternator... if you go 200 amps, you'll have the same basic amount of "wiggle" room that the engineers set it out of the factory with.
 
thank u all very much,im goin to try some of those things and ill keep u updfated,also does anyone know what kind of dbs u can get out of my set up
 
what is a big three by the way,and where would i get a 200 amp alt. at and lastely would it be a good idea to get another battery just for the system just in case also
 
JERSEYLINCOLNKING said:
what is a big three by the way,and where would i get a 200 amp alt. at and lastely would it be a good idea to get another battery just for the system just in case also
Click to expand...

If you plan on running your system for any extended amount of time without the vehicle running, it might be a good idea. Even the best deep cycle which would fit in your factory location would atbest last only about an hour... and even at that you'd be hunting some jumper cables. So it depends on how you use it.

The big three and the alternator are above... that wasn't a bad price at all on the alternator. Big three is simply replacing the wire from the alternator to battery positive, engine to body ground and battery to body ground; don't replace the wires, add lengths of 2ga to it.
 
whatsupadrian said:
That amp is power hungry! I believe the 1st and 2nd gen LSs use the same 105 amp alt.
Click to expand...
I'm fairly certain that the 2nd Gen LSes have a higher-output alternator. It's one of the reasons we have electric cooling fans instead of the hydraulic jobbie on the 1st Gens.
 
I don't know for certain, but he's still got way too much amp for his alternator... or not enough alternator for his amp... however you want to look at it.
 
NateRW21 said:
I don't know for certain, but he's still got way too much amp for his alternator... or not enough alternator for his amp... however you want to look at it.
Click to expand...
Oh, I'm not disagreeing with that. I'd have to question whether a 200A alternator would even be enough for the car if the amp is really drawing 100A...
 
well om not goin to sit there with the car off listenin to music,so thats n problem,so u guys think getting an alt. and doin the alt. trick will most likely fix it?
 
also,i see it says run a 2 ga. or better from the alt. to the battery,do i have to run the wire all the way through the car,unless there is somethin under the hood for the battery,just got the car not to long ago so dont know alot bout it
 
JERSEYLINCOLNKING said:
also,i see it says run a 2 ga. or better from the alt. to the battery,do i have to run the wire all the way through the car,unless there is somethin under the hood for the battery,just got the car not to long ago so dont know alot bout it
Click to expand...

Ok well you could feed the wire through your firewall somehow and in your interior, but i was lazy and decided to run my 0g wire under my car along the fuel line(probably not the smartest idea!!!) and right into the spare tire well. Dont forget to add an ANL Fuse to the battery end.
 
JERSEYLINCOLNKING said:
thank u all very much,im goin to try some of those things and ill keep u updfated,also does anyone know what kind of dbs u can get out of my set up
Click to expand...

you could get 150+ if you create the perfect enclosure but that wont happen, expect high 130's low 140's with a prefab enclosure.
 
how hard is an alternator swap out in a house garage, average skill mechanic with a few beers? :D . i've been trying to upgrade all audio but didn't just due to the fact that i didn't know how to properly replace the alternator and upgrade the wiring.
 
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