JERSEYLINCOLNKING
Active LVC Member
where could i get that alt so cheap at,any web sites please
hey,just signed up and already have a ?
- Thread starter JERSEYLINCOLNKING
- Start date
where could i get that alt so cheap at,any web sites please
I had to drop mine for something... don't recall what for. But it wasn't that bad; it's do-able.
Yes, you need to run that 2ga wire ALL THE WAY from the alternator to the battery in the trunk; IF you choose to run it under the car, be absolutely sure it's tucked up out of the way where even if you bottom out it will be protected. Then, be sure you get all weather wire, because under the car it will be exposed to a lot of nasty stuff. Before you install it, throw some of that black plastic loom on it; it'll add a bit more protection. Of course this run of wire will not be cheap at all, but luckily for you, it will be the only long run. For your block to chassis, make sure you find a main grounding strap to piggyback on; you'll know it's a good grounding point. Give the connections a nice coating of dielectric grease (autozone) to help ward off corrosion and ensure a good connection. Do the same thing for your battery to ground; just piggy-back it.
Yes, you need to run that 2ga wire ALL THE WAY from the alternator to the battery in the trunk; IF you choose to run it under the car, be absolutely sure it's tucked up out of the way where even if you bottom out it will be protected. Then, be sure you get all weather wire, because under the car it will be exposed to a lot of nasty stuff. Before you install it, throw some of that black plastic loom on it; it'll add a bit more protection. Of course this run of wire will not be cheap at all, but luckily for you, it will be the only long run. For your block to chassis, make sure you find a main grounding strap to piggyback on; you'll know it's a good grounding point. Give the connections a nice coating of dielectric grease (autozone) to help ward off corrosion and ensure a good connection. Do the same thing for your battery to ground; just piggy-back it.
whatsupadrian
Dedicated LVC Member
if u go back and reread this thread you will find it. k thx
whatsupadrian
Dedicated LVC Member
how hard is an alternator swap out in a house garage, average skill mechanic with a few beers?. i've been trying to upgrade all audio but didn't just due to the fact that i didn't know how to properly replace the alternator and upgrade the wiring.
i had access to a lift and during the install i was telling myself "thank god for this lift" The job its self is easy, remove two bolts and pop the belt off. pull the alt out(it will come out without bending or breaking anything just try every angle) i say the hardest part is putting th belt back on.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
That's cheaper than a stock replacement alternator straight from Ford.
Sounds like a good deal to me.
union807trucker
Well-Known LVC Member
i have 2 12 w6s jl 1800watt old school rockford punchs 2 12 evs 4 8 in comp beymas one 320 tma amp 680 watt hifonics zeus amp 4 beyma tweeters and for all that i have a 5.0 farad cap,optima yellow cap batt.kinetica batt.nitro tv radio the car is doing good so far the only thing i have on the optima batt. is the subs
i figured i put it to that because alot of people told me that batt can hold it,after reading this thread i guess it doesnt matter but i still think i should upgrade the alternator when i had only the subs with the amp the first thing that went was my motrcraft batt next i beleve would have been the alternator glad i have a website that has so much valuable info
i figured i put it to that because alot of people told me that batt can hold it,after reading this thread i guess it doesnt matter but i still think i should upgrade the alternator when i had only the subs with the amp the first thing that went was my motrcraft batt next i beleve would have been the alternator glad i have a website that has so much valuable info
yeah, you're in the same boat... pulling way too much amperage for your factory alternator.
Something else you guys should keep in mind... amplifier output decreases with voltage decrease. SO, when you fire up your stereo and your voltage drops to 13... you're loosing a decent chunk of output. Most amps are rated at 14.4v... because that's what a charging system will run at when you're not pulling more than it can put out. Some manufactures will list both 14.4 and 12.5 voltage ratings... because most serious sound competitions will run on batteries alone (when you're running like 20 subs and about 20,000 watts, there is no alternator that will keep up).
I know a bit about stereos, but I admit it isn't as much as some of the guys on here... electrical theory however... I know pretty well..
Something else you guys should keep in mind... amplifier output decreases with voltage decrease. SO, when you fire up your stereo and your voltage drops to 13... you're loosing a decent chunk of output. Most amps are rated at 14.4v... because that's what a charging system will run at when you're not pulling more than it can put out. Some manufactures will list both 14.4 and 12.5 voltage ratings... because most serious sound competitions will run on batteries alone (when you're running like 20 subs and about 20,000 watts, there is no alternator that will keep up).
I know a bit about stereos, but I admit it isn't as much as some of the guys on here... electrical theory however... I know pretty well..
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
My amp(2400watt) has a 50a, current draw. Is that too much for the factory alt?
certainly boarder-line if it were really 50a draw... I'd keep an eye on your voltage; see how much it drops...
what kind of amp are you running? at 2400w, it should be drawing a lot more than 50a. Is that 2400w RMS or peak?
If it's RMS...
2400x2/13.8 (typical full load alternator voltage output)=347/3 (to account for an average draw)=116 amp draw (or 58amp if 2400w is peak)
Given that (116)... I'm surprised you don't have electrical problems as well.
If it's peak, you're pulling 58 amps... which would be pushing the limits of the factory alternator; depends if you get any apprechable voltage drop below 13.8.
what kind of amp are you running? at 2400w, it should be drawing a lot more than 50a. Is that 2400w RMS or peak?
If it's RMS...
2400x2/13.8 (typical full load alternator voltage output)=347/3 (to account for an average draw)=116 amp draw (or 58amp if 2400w is peak)
Given that (116)... I'm surprised you don't have electrical problems as well.
If it's peak, you're pulling 58 amps... which would be pushing the limits of the factory alternator; depends if you get any apprechable voltage drop below 13.8.
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
It's peak, which explains why my spec sheet that came with the amp says 50a. It is a Legacy 2 channel mosfet amp. A p.o.s honestly, but it gets the job done. Should my in-line fuse be 50a?
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm pretty sure its two (2) 30's, I will confirm that tomorrow. Although one (1) of those fuses in the amp blew months ago so I just removed it and haven't gotten around to getting a new one.
And you're still running it? Is that even possible?
usually it's advised you run the same size fuse as what your fuses added together on the amp are. So if the 50a is working out for you... don't swap it, but if you can pick up a 60a... throw that in the glove box. I always keep extra fuses in the vehicle; if I'm on a long trip and loose my stereo. Well, that makes for a pretty crappy drive.
usually it's advised you run the same size fuse as what your fuses added together on the amp are. So if the 50a is working out for you... don't swap it, but if you can pick up a 60a... throw that in the glove box. I always keep extra fuses in the vehicle; if I'm on a long trip and loose my stereo. Well, that makes for a pretty crappy drive.
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Edit: On the amp it is two (2) 25's, not 30a fuses. The amp still works with only one 25a, but turns off if I play it in excess. The fuse in my power line is indeed 60a.
Okay... the amp SHOULDN'T pull more than 50a then (kind of hard to pull more amperage than the amp is fused for).
I'd just try to keep an eye on your charging system voltage; see if it drops below 13.8 with the music up... add in a volt meter (accurate one) or just put a multi-meter to your battery posts. But you don't want to do this after it's been idling with the music up... the charging system puts out about 2/3 of its capacity at idle, usually up to full capacity around 2000RPM. So drive around a bit, have the multimeter ready... stop, pop the trunk and check your voltage.
I'd just try to keep an eye on your charging system voltage; see if it drops below 13.8 with the music up... add in a volt meter (accurate one) or just put a multi-meter to your battery posts. But you don't want to do this after it's been idling with the music up... the charging system puts out about 2/3 of its capacity at idle, usually up to full capacity around 2000RPM. So drive around a bit, have the multimeter ready... stop, pop the trunk and check your voltage.