How do I change rear wheel studs?

[scjmc]

I have a snapped rear wheel stud and was wondering how to replace it. Does the hub need to come off and if so how do I do it?? How do I get the old stud out of the hub? Any tips on installing new stud? Do I hammer it in or tighten the lug nut and press it in?? I have done many things on cars, but never messed with studs. Thanks.

 

[Quik LS]

just hammer the old one out, and you put the new one in - then tighten it in when you put back on your rim.

you have to turn the hub to the right spot to allow access to the stud from behind - or you'll never get the new one back in.

 

[scjmc]

Thanks Quick. That sounds easy enough.

 

[txhousedog]

the easiest way is to remove the rotor, but not the only way, lastnite i did all five of my studs on driver rear side, remove tire, put car in netural, turn rotor to about the 9 oclock position, on a 2004 this is your only spot to remove and replace stud, knock out damage or broken stud, inssert new stud, most studs are fully rounded at the head, these will work but i found using the ones that are not fully round works best because of the limited space you have to work with if you dont remove the rotor, after you get the new in, use a lug nut to pull the stud in, you will not have room w/rotor on to hammer in, if you have use of a impact tool, this would be best, recheck after driving or take to a tire shop and have them check all lug nuts for tightness. hope this helps.

 

[dunndarryn]

I had to replace all mine in my front driver side not too long ago. The mechanic hammered out the old ones and took of the rim, rotor, etc. to get the new ones in. Good luck!

 

[nelliott500]

Six-year thread resurrection. Nice.

 

[gcwimmer]

Six-year thread resurrection. Nice.

With the same answer.

 

[mlara1129]

Nvm

 

[reaper76]

Six-year thread resurrection. Nice.

Makes me wonder if new members are looking at thread dates:shifty:

 

[nelliott500]

Probably not, but how do you just stumble upon this thread? You have to search for it. You're just not just going to be browsing and run across it.

 

[SoonerLS]

Makes me wonder if new members are looking at thread dates:shifty:

At least they're looking at the old threads instead of just asking the same damned questions...

 

[reaper76]

At least they're looking at the old threads instead of just asking the same damned questions...

That is a true story there!

 

[blwnbyu]

At least they're looking at the old threads instead of just asking the same damned questions...

On other sites, they'd rather you start a new thread rather than resurrect an old one

 

[nelliott500]

On other sites, they'd rather you start a new thread rather than resurrect an old one

It's different if there's either a question being asked or solid info being added.

Granted, txhousedog's post has a lot of info, I'm not sure it was necessary to resurrect a 6-year old thread for it.

 

[LS4me]

Now for a pertinent question. Are the front studs usable on the rear and exactly which o'clock position do I need to have the rear rotor to install the new stud?

TIA!

 

[nelliott500]

Not sure about stud length for front vs. rear, but I believe the open spot on the dust shield is towards the front of the car. So, the stud would need to be at the 3 o'clock position.

 

[LS4me]

Not sure about stud length for front vs. rear, but I believe the open spot on the dust shield is towards the front of the car. So, the stud would need to be at the 3 o'clock position.

Thanks. A simple observation shows me that I will need to grind a flat spot for the stud to fit the rear.

This simple operation sure has turned into a bear!

 

[nelliott500]

Hmm, you sure? I replaced one on my car without having to grind or do anything. I did pull the rotor though. Not sure if that allowed me to get the stud in at a better angle or not.

 

[LS4me]

Hmm, you sure? I replaced one on my car without having to grind or do anything. I did pull the rotor though. Not sure if that allowed me to get the stud in at a better angle or not.

Yes, according to shop manual Joe posted:

If necessary, grind the head of a new wheel stud to a "D" shape to clear the wheel knuckle.

 

[nelliott500]

Oh, "if necessary". Interesting.

 

[LS4me]

DONE!!!!!! Once I cut that flat spot the stud went right in! getting it seated was another thing! The front (yea, I snapped one of those too) was a bugger. I was able to wedge a piece of wood behind the hub to keep it from spinning.

 

[nelliott500]

Ouch. Glad you got it done though.

I guess I got pretty lucky with mine.

 

[LS4me]

Ouch. Glad you got it done though.

I guess I got pretty lucky with mine.

Yea..... I used some WD-40 to clean the threads a little causing me to over-torque the nuts. I cleaned everything off with brake cleaner and still over-torqued the front. I didn't use my torque wrench after that; just used the Mk1 Mod2 Arm Torque Tool.

 

[scjmc]

Holy old thread batman. I started it waaaaay ba k in 2006 when my wife decided to drive for miles on a flat.

 

[LS4me]

Holy old thread batman. I started it waaaaay ba k in 2006 when my wife decided to drive for miles on a flat.

No use starting a new thread when one already exists!! SEARCH is our friend!