How do you increase the rear braking power?

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bryanswens

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My car has been like this for a while and now that there is snow on the ground i really notice it now. When i am braking coming up to a stop light I am having to to put it into neutral to stop easier but if i don't I can easily make my rear wheels push the front. I believe my brakes are still ok because i can still get them to lock up but it needs to be increased a little bit to counteract for the idling power of the car. Is this something you can do on the proportioning valve
 
I think your right because i know i put the cheapest ones on as possible at the time. what would you recommend oem semi metallic , organic, or ceramic. ceramic seem to be the most expensive would they necessarily be the best.
 
My in gear idle if i remember right is slightly under the lowest bold line probably 900 rmp if i had to guess i can really go check right now but I think its ok.
 
If your idle is at 900 then you need to get that fixed ASAP.

Min idles at about 800 when cold and about 500 when warm (if that).
 
huh maybe the brakes are ok. I am going to have to check my service manual tonight and look for where all the vacuum lines are and trouble shoot IAC. I thought i have needed one but never got around to fixing it. but there are probably a bunch of things that could make it do this according to the Idle Air Control thread. could having a leaky vacuum line or IAC cause my tranny to shift very early all the time. in all gears, and on a cold start 0-20 degrees F cause my rpm to constantly change until it warms up. now its getting gritty
 
If you have your foot on the brakes the rear tires are still spining and pushing the car forward?

That just isn't right.... not at all.... even at 900 rpms the car shouldn't push like that...

That would be like having a less than 900 rpm converter....
 
I should mention this is on snow and ice. probly what makes it more of a head scratcher is that i have a 2600 torque converter from Edge converters. but still.
 
If you are sitting on flat level clean dry ground at idle does your car creep forward, and what happens when you lightly press the brakes?
 
Ive got a 40 minute drive home, I'll post back again with some video's. I will get a few showing all the different symptoms. with my commentary:shifty: :confused:
 
id still put my money on the rear brakes. easy to check, pull rear tire, ive seen sticking caliper slides cause symptoms like this, also the pads could be stuck in the arbor, the calipers could be shot etc. brakes are very easy to diagnose, just remember the rear pistons DONT PUSH IN!!!!!!!
 
always check your brakes and specially your rear brakes. I had a car where the caliper pin was frozen, and I did a 360 in that car and the abs was shot. So don't try to rely on that
 
Well the car does Idle at 800 to 900 rpm's even after my drive home shown here

This is with the car in drive

img047.jpg


I thought this was maybe a bit weird too Granted it was only 5 F degrees out but my temperature gauge didnt get above the L on N-O-R-M-A-L on the drive home, so i did a little test. with one mile left till i got home i drove in first gear the whole way home and it didnt even budge

before

img046.jpg


after

img048.jpg


im going to replace my T-stat tomorrow even if its ok. im sure its never been done.

could a low temp cause a Higher idle?

I woudnt say the car creeps forward if you let it go for a while it can get up to 18 mph. if you press the brakes lighty it will slow but not completly untill you press it harder. the car wont just sit and spin unless your on some really slippery ice. but i hope this helps.
 
Low temp should not cause an high idle. My engine reaches "nominal idle temp" before the gauge even gets up to the L.
 
I didnt see anyone say to check to make sure they are adjusted
set your E break a few times
 
slowmkviii said:
I didnt see anyone say to check to make sure they are adjusted
set your E break a few times
Click to expand...

Yes, I have a running battle with the wife on her Suburban to set the E brake every time she parks the car. Todays E brakes tightens the rear brakes, where as in the old days, backing up tightened the rear brakes.
 
I am going to go through the rear brakes and lube the slides set the e brake a few more times and upgrade the pads. If I have a 2600 stall converter would that make the IN-GEAR idle higher because it wouldn't have as much pressure in it like a factory stall. Or to say it different would a Factory torque converter have a lower idle because of the lower stall RPM.

Here is a dumb Q I want to change the thermostat like i said earlier but i looked and looked last night and couldn't find it. I saw it in my service manual but that only showed the Tube with the two bold holes and not where it is located. where is it at?
 
I don't think the converter would affect idle rpm. I have a higher stall then that and mine idles normal. I belive idle rpm is set in the ecu and the computer will adjust to compensate for the converter.
 
The thermostat is in its own little housing separate of the block... look by the oil filter and you should see the assembly it is in.
 
bryanswens said:
I have a 2600 stall converter
Click to expand...

is not even high enough to be considered much more than stock.... dont worry about your convertor.

if you have a high idle, it's 99% chance due to a vacuum leak.
less than 1% of the time is it even the IAC motor.

I agree with some of the previous posters, your rear brakes are probably not even working because the E brake is rarely used, and that is what adjusts the rear brakes for the pad wear.
 
I wonder if i need to tension my e brake. I use it every time i change the oil but seems like when i get done it hangs down a little.

I looked under the hood last night also where I connect my vacuum gauge to but all i found was the Fuel pressure regulators, is there a capped off vent just for this or do i disconnect something and attach my gauge. I heard a *hissing* under the hood last night and i know it wasn't my Intake. Is there a couple spots to check vacuum pressure. I Read in the manual again that it should read 15-22 hg's. and upon acceleration drop almost to nothing and when let off gas rise to almost over the max of the spec being 22 hg. correct me if im wrong. where are they at though
 
Hissing sound... sounds like you have a big vaccumm leak causing your high idle. Your rear brakes still sound like they are shot though.

2600 rpm is very close to the stock stall.
 
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