HOW TO: change window regulator

hammc

LVC Member
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Jan 24, 2007
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Location
Bellingham/Port Orchard, WA
just bought my LS about 3 months ago and its starting off not so great :shifty: damn regulator already broke on me.... hopefully that will be all after a while.
especially after the hassle of getting the part since i needed it pretty much TODAY. got the first one and it was broken so took it back and had to drive about 45 min away to get to another dealership that had them in stock

the temp. fix haha
img3929ik8.jpg



START
1)
open the dang door
img3951yr2.jpg


2)
Locate and unscrew all the main screws holding the panel on
3 on the bottom
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one on the side
img3948ol1.jpg

two in the handle (after you flip the cover open
img3935yg8.jpg


3)
pop off the door lever/lock cover from the side facing the door hinges
img3950kd9.jpg

to expose the screw that nobody informs anybody about ;)
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4)
start popping off the panel. gotta put some gusto into them to get them to come out, but dont break the door panel. (all the plastic poppers i believe i have circled)
img3930ls9.jpg


5)
then pull off the skin (easier to start from the right side), as well as unbolting the speaker (using a T20 torx)
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4392/img3931ht6.jpg

6)
then start unbolting the skeleton from the door using an 11mm socket.

7)
use an 8mm wrench to unbolt the tracks from the skeleton. There should be 10mm nuts on the backside also, which you will need to keep.
img3938em0.jpg

there should be 5 bolts. one at the top and bottom of each track and one holding the motor. the motor does not have a nut on the back, so when you put the new regulator in, you will need to find a 10mm nut to use on it
img3944ub6.jpg


8)
shimmy the tracks around until you can pull the skeleton away from the door and pull out the regulator alltogether
*leave the skeleton sittin on the door so you do not need to undo all the wiring and the door latch cable
img3934ca1.jpg

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9)
Set the new one in there behind the skeleton and line up the bolt studs into the holes the other one came out of.
MAKE SURE you get the regulator all the way inside before bolting up, i forgot about that and had the top of the left track stuck outside the door and had to unbolt it completely from the skeleton and start over after lots of frustration of getting the window clamp lodged inbetween some stuff inside the door from carelessness
img3940qn0.jpg


10)
get all 5 regulator nuts (10mm) back on and secured, then start bolting the skeleton back up (11mm) to the door itself.

11)
hook the power window switch back up and roll the clamps up far enough so that they are positioned behind an area where they are both visible and accessible
img3942ou2.jpg

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12)
set the window down inside the clamps so it sits at the bottom of each and then tighten the bolt to secure the window. don't reeeeeem on it to the point of shattering ur window tho :p

13)
roll the window up and test the fitment.

14)
bolt the speaker back in, throw the skin back on there, re-secure the door panel and call it a day:cool:
 
Ugh, I always hated doing those things. Not the worst, but not the easiest by far. Good job on the the pictures and instructions. Very nicely done.:Beer
 
Great write up and nice pics. Will definitely help many ppl in the future.

Just have to ask, where were you ten months ago when my reg. took a dive:shifty: Great job either way.
 
well dang... you definitely did beat me to it! haha i searched my ass off and couldn't find ANYTHING real descriptive about how to do it, wish i would'a found urs before wasting all that time taking breaks for pictures and resizing and all that good stuff :eek:P
 
i was reading on another thread that they were riveted and i was ready to go thru hell and was rediculously happy when i saw they were just four little bolts
 
I have a question for those who have taken the window apart. How is the actual glass connected inside? Mine seems to come loose from the track every now and then.
 
If you look at the pics from step 11, the silver bracket with black rubber around it (its shown in the first pic thru the speaker hole), that is where the glass rests. You just sit the glass on that bracket (the second pic shows the other one) and tighten them.
 
hammc & V-8, thanks for the great write ups. Mine went down on Friday. I took it into the shop and then quickly pulled it out. They wanted $300 for the job! I took my lumps, paid the $75 for the diagnosis fee and went home. I went to another dealership and they sold me the regulator for $115 vs. the retail $144. Thumbs up guys.:D
 
yup, they wanted 160 for the part and another 150-180ish for labor. and i'm wwaaaayyyy too poor to be paying for that, so i figured i'd fiddle around with it and figure it out myself
 
Thanks to the OP and the one with the other "how to" thread" linked here. My Driver door window started making a crunching sound and excessive wind noise, but still worked. Ordered the new part $109 at TeamFordParts.com and followed these directions. Replaced unit in ~ 1-1.5 hrs. Mine had one of the plasic brackets (rear one) completely broken apart and floating in the bottom of the door.

So far I've done (2002 V8):
Window Regulator (Drivers)
Front Stabilizer Bar
DVVC
I'm sure coils are not far away....

This site has been invaluable in either diagnosis and/or repair of each.
 

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