I have a 2000 Lincoln LS w/150K miles. For some reason, rear right wheel brakes are binding - they are ''always on''. I actually had to replace the whole rear right caliper assembly just a few months ago. And now it's happening again. Any way I can fix it?
How to prevent brakes from binding?
- Thread starter neo4you
- Start date
owlman
Dedicated LVC Member
Maybe it's your brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally. Happened to me once (but on a 30 year old car).
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
How often do you use your parking brake? (E brake)
The caliper guide/slide pins are often the cause of binding, but if you've replaced the caliper assembly, that's probably not the problem (unless you or your installer didn't lube them before installation or the boots that protect them are damaged). As these other guys are suggesting, I'd be looking for a kinked/collapsed brake line or a kinked/rusted/frozen parking brake cable.
I don't use the parking brake at all. When I replaced the caliper, the parking cable looked OK. I did put some lube on caliper pins, but maybe I should take it off and re-lube them just to make sure.
What are the symptoms of a kinked/collapsed brake line? How can I tell if my brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally? I mean, the fluid should be able to depress the piston, but won't allow to retract.
Also, one more thing I forgot to mention. When I replaced the caliper, the inner pad was totally worn out (in fact, some of the hardened backing seemed to be scratched off), but the outer pad was half-decent. So maybe it is lack of lube on the pins...
What are the symptoms of a kinked/collapsed brake line? How can I tell if my brake hoses/flex lines collapsed internally? I mean, the fluid should be able to depress the piston, but won't allow to retract.
Also, one more thing I forgot to mention. When I replaced the caliper, the inner pad was totally worn out (in fact, some of the hardened backing seemed to be scratched off), but the outer pad was half-decent. So maybe it is lack of lube on the pins...
owlman
Dedicated LVC Member
Next time it locks up, loosen the bleed screw on that brake (be prepared for hot fluid squirting out). If the brake releases, it's probably the flex hose. If it stays stuck, it's probably the caliper.
Something that happened to my truck(ford)...more likely that way from the factory...was the bracket was either bent, or miss machined. Didnt matter how much lube I put on the pins, the caliper stuck, and wore out the pads at an angle. had to replace the complete spindle.
OK, so I looked at it today. First off, the caliper and bracket are covered with some rusted brake dust. The pads are half worn, but the wear on inner and outer pads seems to be even. I relubed the pins and pads' backings. When I hit and release the brakes , the caliper would still not let go and it's almost impossible to turn the wheel.
I did loosen the bleed screw, and it didn't help the problem at all. In fact, it made it much worse. I took the car for a little drive around my development, never accelerating past 25. Now I have to like double pump the brakes to even feel any resistance in brake pedal. The first pump I can floor it, and the car just keeps on going. Only on the second one it stops, but still not very reassuring.
Should I bleed the system?
I did loosen the bleed screw, and it didn't help the problem at all. In fact, it made it much worse. I took the car for a little drive around my development, never accelerating past 25. Now I have to like double pump the brakes to even feel any resistance in brake pedal. The first pump I can floor it, and the car just keeps on going. Only on the second one it stops, but still not very reassuring.
Should I bleed the system?
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes. It sounds like a hydraulic problem.
KenS from Ben's Place
KenS from Ben's Place
OK, so I finally got around to replace the brake hose, and nothing's changed. After a 20 minute drive the front brakes are hot, the rear right one is impossible to touch, and the rear left one is barely warm.
Per owlman's post, it's most likely the caliper, but it was replaced like 4-5 months ago. Could it be defective from the get-go?
Or maybe it's the left rear that's causing the problem? On the other hand, the rear brakes are supposed to be colder than the front ones anyway.
Could the wheel be out of alignment? About 3 years ago, I think I had to replace the wheel bearings on the right rear wheel. Is it possible that it somehow started this problem?
Per owlman's post, it's most likely the caliper, but it was replaced like 4-5 months ago. Could it be defective from the get-go?
Or maybe it's the left rear that's causing the problem? On the other hand, the rear brakes are supposed to be colder than the front ones anyway.
Could the wheel be out of alignment? About 3 years ago, I think I had to replace the wheel bearings on the right rear wheel. Is it possible that it somehow started this problem?
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
This sounds like a crap rebuild on the caliper, nothing more. Replace that caliper soon.
Also, I would recommend that you use your parking brake regularly. It keeps things moving that need to stay moving. Not using the parking brake can lead to failure from lack of use in this type of caliper system. If possible, try a different company for that caliper. I've bought two of the rears over the past 3 years and have yet to have a problem, but on my old Peugeot Mi16, I had terrible luck with the rear calipers from rebuilders, and it was the same style as the LS uses with the lever-actuated parking brake.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
What he said. ^
Friend of mine just bought a taurtoise that had the same problem. Replaced the caliper and It was fine.
Friend of mine just bought a taurtoise that had the same problem. Replaced the caliper and It was fine.
Well, you see, the brakes were binding with the old caliper also. I mean, what are the odds that both old and new calipers were defective?
Also, I talked to one Ford mechanic. He says the problem might be with the wheel bearing - if it's not installed properly, the wheel will be at an angle, and that might cause brakes to bind. Does it make any sense?
Also, I talked to one Ford mechanic. He says the problem might be with the wheel bearing - if it's not installed properly, the wheel will be at an angle, and that might cause brakes to bind. Does it make any sense?
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
No, on the wheel bearing theory. You would have noises, to say the least, at all speeds.
As I stated, these calipers are prone to freezing up and lack of parking brake use actually accelerates that in the right conditions. (salt used on roads in the winter) The first one was just to be expected at high miles, then the replacement was not a quality item and that part of it was not as good as new as it should be on a rebuilt caliper. Find another brand. I used a motorcraft rebuilt caliper my first time, at around 100K miles and had no problems with it. All for around $80. My second car, after the one I put the motorcraft on got totalled, I got one at a local autoparts chain that has a dozen or so stores in the NH area, and have had excellent luck with it, also.
As I stated, these calipers are prone to freezing up and lack of parking brake use actually accelerates that in the right conditions. (salt used on roads in the winter) The first one was just to be expected at high miles, then the replacement was not a quality item and that part of it was not as good as new as it should be on a rebuilt caliper. Find another brand. I used a motorcraft rebuilt caliper my first time, at around 100K miles and had no problems with it. All for around $80. My second car, after the one I put the motorcraft on got totalled, I got one at a local autoparts chain that has a dozen or so stores in the NH area, and have had excellent luck with it, also.
What would be the symptoms of a caliper freezing up? I was able to screw the piston back rather easily, even with brake fluid reservoir cap closed, and the pins were swimming in lube. I added some more just to be sure though. When I put everything back together, the caliper caliper was sliding freely.
I had rear end jacked up, so I decided to put it in Drive and see what happens. Both wheels were spinning. Maybe it's a good sign, I thought. Wrong!
I guess it was spinning only because the piston was pushed back far enough that the pads weren't touching the rotor yet.
So... as soon as I hit the brakes, it froze again. Well, the left wheel was spinning, the right one was not. Back to square one, I guess.
So since I was able to push the piston back fairly easily, does it mean that the hard brake line is OK? Because I was gonna disconnect it from the ABS module (or whatever it is next to the windshield washer bottle) and replace it with a new one?
Or could it possibly be ABS? The traction control light went on when the right wheel locked up...
I had rear end jacked up, so I decided to put it in Drive and see what happens. Both wheels were spinning. Maybe it's a good sign, I thought. Wrong!
I guess it was spinning only because the piston was pushed back far enough that the pads weren't touching the rotor yet.So... as soon as I hit the brakes, it froze again. Well, the left wheel was spinning, the right one was not. Back to square one, I guess.
So since I was able to push the piston back fairly easily, does it mean that the hard brake line is OK? Because I was gonna disconnect it from the ABS module (or whatever it is next to the windshield washer bottle) and replace it with a new one?
Or could it possibly be ABS? The traction control light went on when the right wheel locked up...
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
The TCS monitors wheel speed through a sensor mounted to the wheel hub. The light came on because you had one wheel spinning while the rest were still.
What brand of caliper did you buy?
What brand of caliper did you buy?
tiffgirl_89
New LVC Member
do u know how and where to fix a wind shield wiper fuse or relay?
gcwimmer
Dedicated LVC Member
You need to start your own thread instead of tacking the same question on five unrelated threads.
Passenger side fuse: #26
Under the hood #20
In the trunk: Relay #9
You can down load your owners manual from TECH ARTICLES at the top of the page next to SEARCH.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
Never, ever, EVER, buy remanufactured brake parts. When a component is rebuilt/remanufactured, they replace only the parts that are in need of replacing, the rest of the parts they just put back on after they clean them up (if they clean them up), throw it in a box and call it a day.
Go buy a NEW caliper, it will cost more, but you wont have this kind of trouble again for a long time.
Well, that's the thing - I wanted to buy a new one, but at NAPA, Autozone and the likes I only found remanufactured ones. I would love to buy a new one. Could you please tell me where I can get one? I guess one place will be a Ford dealership, but I'm sure they'll want like mucho $$$ for it. OK, I found one for $110 plus s/h at team ford. How would I know it's new?
They (the dealership) say that usually if a model is out of production, only remanufactured calipers are available. So for my LS, even if he punched in the number for a new one, only the rebuilt caliper was available. He said the parts were supposed to be all new, only the housing itself is being reused.