Hub swap/front brake mod

[lobird91]

Or just use the new ones....

 

[Right on the Mark]

Is there 10 holes in your front hubs? Take a picture of the back side of your 4.5" mustang pattern hubs.

No way those are welded holes on those. No blueing and there is not machining on those other holes. There would be some uneven in the welds for sure.

 

[DieselDan]

That is exactly what I was trying to say, I think somebody redrilled front mark viii hubs. And he needs to install the parts he just ordered.

 

[m_maker]

These are mustang hubs alright. Notice the lack of small step on the hub portion as it goes thru the rotor (specific to mark viii hubs).
The round rust spots are from mark viii rotors redrilled to work with stock mark viii calipers.

 

[dnsherrill]

4 mark viii rotors, 2 mustang hubs

if I don't get the old ones off those spindles I'll just use the new ones...bad on me for ordering the hubs before verifying I need em, it's only money :shifty:
....reality is I have 2 marks, and already have a set of corvette PBR calipers I could use on the white car later on...

 

[Right on the Mark]

4 mark viii rotors, 2 mustang hubs

if I don't get the old ones off those spindles I'll just use the new ones...bad on me for ordering the hubs before verifying I need em, it's only money :shifty:
....reality is I have 2 marks, and already have a set of corvette PBR calipers I could use on the white car later on...

I WIN! LOL The front hubs slide off like butter. If you can't get those off hang, it up. Rockauto will take hubs back no problem. You will have to pay to ship back thou.

 

[DieselDan]

J has spoken, I am now satisfied!

A few of us weren't sure what our eyes were seeing. Take your front spindle assemblies to a friends place with a half inch impact and zap them off real quick like.

 

[dnsherrill]

after rebuilding those :q rear calipers a few months ago, it's all 'downhill' at this point....
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with factory rims and std size tires, the alignment is currently real good...after the addition of the 17/245's will I need re-alignment?
the reason I axe is b/c my outer tie rod ends look 'okay'... but could be replaced if I'll have to realign anyhow...most of the rest of the front end is in very good condition

 

[dnsherrill]

maybe this will work...who needs air? 35 mm, not 36

yep, Mustang hubs..

front hubs swapped, one step closer!

 

[Right on the Mark]

Did you hit the "EASY" button?

 

[dnsherrill]

using the 35 is easier than using the 36mm socket;
putting the 4.5'' hubs onto my car i stood on the breaker bar- i weigh 200lbs so they are torqued to spec? :shifty:
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...now to rassle those rear knuckles for r/r....
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any prediction if bigger tires will call for re-alignment ROTM?

 

[Right on the Mark]

using the 35 is easier than using the 36mm socket;
putting the 4.5'' hubs onto my car i stood on the breaker bar- i weigh 200lbs so they are torqued to spec? :shifty:
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...now to rassle those rear knuckles for r/r....
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any prediction if bigger tires will call for re-alignment ROTM?

They go off the rim so I would not think it should be a problem. But large dia tires are not my thing.

 

[dnsherrill]

rear knuckle lower bolt heads; anybody know what size (star?) bit this is? what type driver I need to get?

 

[chris2523]

torx t-50

 

[DieselDan]

There is no need for re-alignment for a wheel change. Your speedo is the only thing that could be potentially effected.

 

[dnsherrill]

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[dnsherrill]

my calipers aren't marked RT/LT, pretty sure this is right....si?

 

[Right on the Mark]

my calipers aren't marked RT/LT, pretty sure this is right....si?

A very easy way to remember is the caliper BLEEDER ALWAYS GOES UP. I have had to fix couple cars where people put new set of calipers and mount them on wrong side. The brakes will not bleed with bleeders down.

 

[chris2523]

yes. bleeders up!

 

[SATURN5]

my calipers aren't marked RT/LT, pretty sure this is right....si?

I'm betting they are as it's part of the casting. In your pic, facing the bottom, left caliper, lower right, right caliper, lower left.

 

[dnsherrill]

yes. bleeders up!

ah, physics: gas (in this case) has less mass/density than the fluid!

 

[dnsherrill]

I'm betting they are as it's part of the casting.

indeed they are stamped- adjacent the banjo bolts, so big I couldn't see it!
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I picked up a T-50 driver after work and promptly deformed it trying to loosen the lower rear bolt drv side, get another one tomorrow, try again
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for these rear knuckles, will I need a 24mm box wrench to remove the lower nuts directly behind the hub? or can i get both the lowers w/ sockets?
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does it matter if the suspension is loaded when reattaching the knuckles?

 

[SATURN5]

You have to loosen the nut. The T50 doesn't have the strength to loosen the bolt.

 

[Right on the Mark]

You have to loosen the nut. The T50 doesn't have the strength to loosen the bolt.

X2 beat me to it.

 

[dnsherrill]

drv side, rear knuckle, top bolt and rear bolt removed, can't get the 3rd, front lower bolt out or slide the knuckle out...what's the trick here?

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lift it, push it, twist it, but the head of that bolt and the bottom of the axle won't clear...yet