Hub Swap

fokus83

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I've tried to do a search on doing a Mustang hub swap on my '94 Mark VIII but I've not found any threads that details the process. Can anyone direct me to a write up or detailed thread that outlines parts needed and what the process is? If there isn't one... can someone tell me?
 
What's your objective? Unless you want a specific wheel that wasn't put on a mustang, but is offered in the mustang bolt pattern, there isn't much point, you can get most any mustang wheel in the lincoln pattern with better offset for the mark, and for alot less than hubswapping plus buying mustang wheels.
 
Since I can't find any info on what's needed I don't know what the hub swap would actually cost me.

I haven't been able to find any used 5x4.25 mustang style wheel for this car or an MN12 locally... but Mustang rims are a dime a dozen. I thought this might be the cheaper route and give me a more readily accessible choice of wheels.
 
Search for username 'baggedtaco' here on the board, his name is brad, and he has cast many custom wheels for our marks in the perfect offset. Very reasonable prices and customer service. Look through the wheel threads, you'll see plenty of his wheels.
 
I have been wanting to do a hub swap for a while now to. i think the main advantage of the hup swap is being able to use cobra brakes. here is a link i found that might help.

http://members.tccoa.com/dlf/Article.html

You can use the Cobra brakes on the Lincoln hubs too. I'm running mine this way. You can find places that have rotors drilled to our pattern already or have a shop do it for you...
 
Drilling suspension components scares me.

Is anyone here running redrilled hubs or rotors? I'm concerned about structual rigidity. For example, I've always heard mixed reviews on how much risk there is when using slotted/drilled rotors. Many people say they're fine, others say they're prone to cracking. I'd hate to redrill the hubs and have one crack.
 
Drilling suspension components scares me.

Is anyone here running redrilled hubs or rotors? I'm concerned about structual rigidity. For example, I've always heard mixed reviews on how much risk there is when using slotted/drilled rotors. Many people say they're fine, others say they're prone to cracking. I'd hate to redrill the hubs and have one crack.

that is exactly what i was thinking.
 
the reason the crossdrilled rotors are prone to cracking is a high heat condition on what is essentially a perforated rotor. i dont think you will have a problem with drilling the hub portion of the rotor. most of the heat from braking has disapated by the time it reaches the hub portion of the rotor.
 
Lol... a rotor hat cracking??

I guess everyone needs to worry about something....

Uhhh... exactly what is a "rotor hat"? Did you just make that one up? lol

The question was whether or not the rotor would crack under load after you drilled some holes in it. The integrity of a brake rotor on a car is considered important by most... like when you're trying to stop the car so you don't run into something, or kill someone...

:p
 
the reason the crossdrilled rotors are prone to cracking is a high heat condition on what is essentially a perforated rotor. i dont think you will have a problem with drilling the hub portion of the rotor. most of the heat from braking has disapated by the time it reaches the hub portion of the rotor.


That makes sense...
 
ive been toying around with this for a while myself. i dont think im going to do the swap. supercoupe performance makes the large sized rotors for the front and the back. as for the rims. i would recommend baggedtaco for your rims. he has a large selection and are the correct bolt pattern and the right offset for the marks. i think that is the way im going with it. as for the cobra calipers. you could bolt them right onto the front spindals now if you wanted.
 
the rotor "hat" is the raised center portion of the rotor the lug studs go through. lay one flat on the inner side and look at it, kinda looks like a hat. and as for one breaking there, ive only seen/done it on removal on all FoMoCo vehicle none actually broken during driving

*also see sig for brads site*
 
its not that expensive, you can find front hubs at a junk yard from any 94-04 stang for next to nothing, or you can buy new for about 40 a piece, rears you need new bearings and 99 cobra hubs. bearings about 30 a piece and hubs are about 60 a piece if you can find em. I got my 98 cobra wheels for free so thats why I did it.
 
Your sig says "hub swapped"...

Well yeah. I put timken cobra hubs up front... That handles mustang front bolt pattern. And then I sent my rear hubs out to be drilled to 5x4.5. Once my hubs came in the mail, I bolted the original studs holes to the rotor holes and drilled through the new holes in the hub into the rotor... Quite easy. That way, I could use my stock rear brakes. You can do the same with your front brakes if you want to keep them stock.
 
There is no way in hell a rotor would fail from just drilling 5 more holes in the "hat"....

Have you seen the 10 hole rotors.... They make them. The baer big brake kits for t birds and tauras's use the cobra 13 inchers with 2 bolt patterns.
 

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