Hydraulic to Electric Cooling Fan

I just did the solenoid replacement over the weekend. Same issue as above, lightning fast overheating in traffic with a/c on. For the $97 I bought this part for, I was more than happy to do that instead of dealing with electric conversions with good fans running well over what the solenoid costs, plus the fact that fan control for an electric conversion would be either binary (off or on) or very kludgey. I'll see if the new solenoid lasts another 11 years or 178K miles, which would be longer than the car will, and take my chances.
 
Well My hcf was under warranty (2nd replacement they have never used the revised part from ford) and took it in to dealer to get replaced because it was failing again. They said the pump went bad causing the fan to go bad so they wont honor the warranty ( the pump was replaced three weeks over a year ago but still under the 12000 mile mark as well) to the tune of 2100 dollars. Im tapped on this car. third mechanic to have it in a month. anyways im goin electric, tired of the bs. found a hayden direct fit replacement electric for my 02, only 200 total for fan, shroud and wiring kit. Since im tapped out on $ im gonna take this on myself. Im no stranger to wiring on cars so i figure that part wont be that bad... my only concern is the pump. I dont want to take it out (nor do i believe its bad, other maechanic had it tore down and never made a mention of it being bad or that there was metal shavings like the dealer said). can I just loop the tube from the pump back to the pump to make sure it still cycles and leave it there? this would really simplify things and make this a no brainer. Any advice is much appreciated before i start this job next week.
 
nickrl said:
Well My hcf was under warranty (2nd replacement they have never used the revised part from ford) and took it in to dealer to get replaced because it was failing again. They said the pump went bad causing the fan to go bad so they wont honor the warranty ( the pump was replaced three weeks over a year ago but still under the 12000 mile mark as well) to the tune of 2100 dollars. Im tapped on this car. third mechanic to have it in a month. anyways im goin electric, tired of the bs. found a hayden direct fit replacement electric for my 02, only 200 total for fan, shroud and wiring kit. Since im tapped out on $ im gonna take this on myself. Im no stranger to wiring on cars so i figure that part wont be that bad... my only concern is the pump. I dont want to take it out (nor do i believe its bad, other maechanic had it tore down and never made a mention of it being bad or that there was metal shavings like the dealer said). can I just loop the tube from the pump back to the pump to make sure it still cycles and leave it there? this would really simplify things and make this a no brainer. Any advice is much appreciated before i start this job next week.
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i am in the midst of hydraulic to electric conversion and yes you can just loop the input and return hoses ; they have the same id . Just get a double hose barb and let it run in a loop.
I'm getting adventurous since I am in no hurry to get this done. 108degree temps all weekend every weekend kinda killing my motivation ! I got a pretty big honking electric fan motor at a salvage yard for $20 and will try to mount it in the stock shroud and machine a shaft adapter to spin the stock fan blade assembly. Should move a heck of a lot of air. Instead of messing with a HO alternator I am considering mounting a trolling motor battery in the wheel well opposite the stock battery and running the fan thru it. As most of my driving is highway speeds the fan will run only occasionally anyway
 
what to do with the solenoid control wires

hey guys thanks for sharing all your knowledge, much appreciated. I got a question for you guys that installed a universal fan kit with separate fan control to radiator blades what did you do with the original solenoid control wires? when I disconnected mine I got a check engine light saying "solenoid control" is there some way to fake the pcm out?
 
I'm not an expert in these cars (yet) but I would think that you could measure the resistance through the solenoid to ground, then install a resistor of that value inline with that wire to ground. When the computer commands the solenoid, it would clear. Anyone with a shop manual should be able to tell you what value the solenoid test is looking for. The ground you would want to use will be the one in the solenoid wire, so it would just be a matter of plugging the resistor into the plug.

This also might make a nice side business for anyone with the wherewithal to manufacture stuff, by building a plug with the resistor built in with the correct value. Plug and go.
 
Telco said:
I'm not an expert in these cars (yet) but I would think that you could measure the resistance through the solenoid to ground, then install a resistor of that value inline with that wire to ground. When the computer commands the solenoid, it would clear. Anyone with a shop manual should be able to tell you what value the solenoid test is looking for. The ground you would want to use will be the one in the solenoid wire, so it would just be a matter of plugging the resistor into the plug.

This also might make a nice side business for anyone with the wherewithal to manufacture stuff, by building a plug with the resistor built in with the correct value. Plug and go.
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Actually, the PCM applies a pulsed ground to the solenoid, so you would have to wire the resistor between +battery and the PCM signal, not to ground. However, the easier and cheaper thing to do is to just remove the fan speed solenoid from the assembly and then plug back into the fan control connector and position it out of the way.
 
Cool. I was thinking that a resistor would be better since it would leave you with just a wiring pigtail and not a piece of useless gear cluttering the engine bay. I can't beleive how tight it is under there, reminded me of my first girlfriend when I popped the hood. ;) Anything to clean it up. How big a piece would he be left with doing this?
 
Telco said:
Cool. I was thinking that a resistor would be better since it would leave you with just a wiring pigtail and not a piece of useless gear cluttering the engine bay. I can't beleive how tight it is under there, reminded me of my first girlfriend when I popped the hood. ;) Anything to clean it up. How big a piece would he be left with doing this?
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Hardly any bigger than the power resistor that would be required, but yes a resistor would work too.
 
I just left mine plugged in ; cut the hydraulic hoses loose and joined them in a circle with hose barbs. Now it runs along doing nothing and the 'car' doesn't know the difference
 
solenoid resitance

does anyone know what the resistance of the solenoid, mine is junk so I cannot just tie it out of the way and since it is throwing a code im assuming the resistance is out of spec.
pulsed resistance , does that mean one of the control wires is +battery and the other is pcm?
 
951ralston said:
oh if i plug in the wrong resitor, could i fry the pcm?
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If the resistance is too low, then it is possible to damage the PCM. What you really need is a resistance that it just low enough to fool the PCM.

You could try a 100 ohm, 2W (or higher) resistor and see if that is low enough.
If not, then try 50 ohm, 3W (or higher). I wouldn't go below 25 ohm, 7W (or higher).

The two wires going to the solenoid are +battery (switched) and the PWM grounding signal from the PCM. Use these two wires to connect the resistor. Do not connect either side to ground or battery.
 
immusicman said:
fan conversion elaboration

Sorry it took me so long to get back here and answer a few questions. As far as doing away with the hydraulic pump, just leave it and cut the end off the supply line to the fan and attach it to the return line. It will continue to pump enough fluid to lubricate pump. Then, to answer the question about using the existing wires to the pump solenoid to control an electric fan..forget it. It won't work. I already tried it. I too, thought of that idea. The electric fan apparently is controlled by a ground, BUT..it uses different resistance for the speeds. I could come up with no way to figure out what signal the fan wants. When I tried to wire it according to the diagram from an 03 Lincoln, it just wants to run all the time. So, not being able to control the speed..I felt it best to just install the relay kit with adjustable temperature control..adjusts to turn the fan on at whatever temperature you want it to. The probe just slips into your radiator fins..it heats up and closes the contacts on the relay and wahla, your fan is now on. It will go off when it cools down. I like the setup just fine..I do wish I could have kept it stock, but ...I didn't like the idea of spending a fortune on fixing it. Plus, if something goes wrong with my setup now..it will be much easier to diagnose and fix. 2 twelve inch pusher fans work great. You could probably use 16" or bigger single fan as a puller (universal) and get a couple 12" pushers and put them on the condensor and you won't have to buy a factory fit fan. I would have done that if I hadn't already had the ford fan. You could cut your the center out of the hydraulic fan unit and remove the motor and blades and keep your bracketing for your a/c drier and your cooling solenoid or your secondary water pump, however yours is set up. I would have done that for certain if I hadn't had the ford fan. Anyway, feel free to private message me if you have any additional questions...I am glad to help anyone. I am a mechanic/shop owner. I don't do alot of these but have the resources to look up some tough questions. Thanks to all for taking the time to read my replies.
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Hello sir - I am a newby,however I appreciate your wordsand they re spot on. Because today I saw how important keeping that pump lubed while running.REALLY IS..I diudnt know this and today my car is sitting up town -because the hydraulic pump wheel broke rite off and screached something out of a Steven king novel.
Therefore I made plans to pick it up tomorow. And after reading all I can -I believe I know the next steps and plan on doing them carefully and rite..I hope you are around and dont mind a few more questions to help.. Thanx Daniel Shearer-email is b4durnafter114@hotmail.
Ty again, from concord ca.
 
Don't know if you noticed but Joe's last post here was from 2012. But worry not, Joe is usually around still and will reply if you ask for help.
 
LunaEros said:
Don't know if you noticed but Joe's last post here was from 2012. But worry not, Joe is usually around still and will reply if you ask for help.
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ty very much
ohh and a you tube conversion video explains that a- you can keep plug in or b- with a 100 watt and 10 amp resistor. it works to give signal back to pcm.
 
LunaEros said:
Don't know if you noticed but Joe's last post here was from 2012. But worry not, Joe is usually around still and will reply if you ask for help.
Click to expand...

Just to set the record straight, my last post was yesterday. However, I'm sure that AsFanDano114 was referring to immusicman. He last logged in here in January of 2017.

AsFanDano114 said:
ty very much
ohh and a you tube conversion video explains that a- you can keep plug in or b- with a 100 watt and 10 amp resistor. it works to give signal back to pcm.
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I'm pretty sure you mean 10 ohms, not 10 Amps.
 
Cool. Good luck!


joegr said:
Just to set the record straight, my last post was yesterday. However, I'm sure that AsFanDano114 was referring to immusicman. He last logged in here in January of 2017.
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Sorry if anyone misunderstood. I was referring to your post in here on this particular thread, Joe.
 
joegr said:
Just to set the record straight, my last post was yesterday. However, I'm sure that AsFanDano114 was referring to immusicman. He last logged in here in January of 2017.



I'm pretty sure you mean 10 ohms, not 10 Amps.
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yes , sorry I strand corrected 'ohms' not amps. I just ordered a pair.
I had a question about the serpentine belt. I drive the 6 cylinder ls (01'). So If I remove the fan pumpand theres gonna be no pulley there how do I figure the size of belt. If different then 8cylinder model.?
ty
 
I don't have a V6, so this is conjecture, but it seems like you could use the idler and belt from a gen II V6.
 
hello Joe and again ty for your help as i go. I have 3 questions now and maybe 2 more im sure you can help with. As i dont want to take too much of your time man , ty.
1- on my instructions chart (map)to make a safe key on power source i thought would be best to cigarette light key on source. thereforer to 32 i go , power side of fuse. however its in side cab -pside and im struggling to see clear pathway... Should i just drill hole or is there a secret pathway you may know?
 
AsFanDano114 said:
hello Joe and again ty for your help as i go. I have 3 questions now and maybe 2 more im sure you can help with. As i dont want to take too much of your time man , ty.
1- on my instructions chart (map)to make a safe key on power source i thought would be best to cigarette light key on source. thereforer to 32 i go , power side of fuse. however its in side cab -pside and im struggling to see clear pathway... Should i just drill hole or is there a secret pathway you may know?
Click to expand...
2 would be a coinside que. because i hvnt taken a reading from power source in p-side well yet( and say its not a viable powering source), because prior owner. illmap ht ling from battery...It jkust seems to me that messing with fuses at this big move is kiunda crazzeee
in the fuse box that is.. i understand inline fuse importance
 
my next step after power source will be to tap into key on source. im aiming for cig lighter. but inside thew cab

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i just ordered new belt, gonna go extract pump from hydraulic hell and look foward to learning the besty way to do rite, 1st time ty kind sir--- I promise to pass forward my good fortune,
 
The power ports and lighter are always powered. They are not "key on" sources. There are key-on sources in the under hood fuse box.
 
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