I want to buy a mark 8

ljay99

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I seek one with NO rust. the air ride must work perfectly ( as in doesn't bleed down in a week or less. must be under 120k miles.
I am in Noblesville Indiana. 46062.
317-900-9019.
 
I bought a FL car that has zero rust on the car. All the air bags will eventualy leak. That's just what rubber does as it gets old. I did springs and couldn't be happier with the ride. NEVER fool with ride issues again! I did a lot of Craig list looking and cargurus.com . Good Luck.
 
Looking for one with no rust just to bring it to the rust belt kinda backwards but alright best of luck
 
Looking for one with no rust just to bring it to the rust belt kinda backwards but alright best of luck
Hey maybe he will store it during winter. Alternately using Rust Check kept a neighbors mustang from rusting, not even the gas tank straps, 10 years and this was in the 80's. I would think they have improved it by now.
 
I bought a FL car that has zero rust on the car. All the air bags will eventualy leak. That's just what rubber does as it gets old. I did springs and couldn't be happier with the ride. NEVER fool with ride issues again! I did a lot of Craig list looking and cargurus.com . Good Luck.

Some of us like the air ride and don't care for whatever spring conversions all of you have done.
You spring guys are like vegans, lmao!
 
Hey maybe he will store it during winter. Alternately using Rust Check kept a neighbors mustang from rusting, not even the gas tank straps, 10 years and this was in the 80's. I would think they have improved it by now.
You're right I hadn't considered that, I keep forgetting people have garages lol.


Some of us like the air ride and don't care for whatever spring conversions all of you have done.
You spring guys are like vegans, lmao!
I so badly want air ride in our mark that way it runs like it was designed to. But I'd has some ebay no name spring conversion in it.
 
You're right I hadn't considered that, I keep forgetting people have garages lol.



I so badly want air ride in our mark that way it runs like it was designed to. But I'd has some ebay no name spring conversion in it.
Hey you can convert it back, many here have done that. I do not see why some complain about air suspension - a shock/spring rarely last 10 years. My air bags and strut air bags have lasted 22 years and still going just fine. I have a slow leak that only happens when it is below freezing and before this recent issue with it raising the front too high on the right, it stopped going down in the cold, so i think it was the sensor or O rings. I have sprayed the bay with soap and water a few times and have not ever saw any air bubbles.
 
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Maybe I'm not reading the above posting right but it seems there is a slight contradiction there.... When I bought my 97 I ran it for a couple months with the front deflating every time you shut the car off. I researched everything there is to know about the system and reviewed the shop manual on the trouble shooting of the system. Only after all that thoughtful effort, I decided I'm not getting any younger in my wrenching abilities so it boiled down to springs with air shocks on the rear. In comparing the ride before and after, I think I made a good decision. I don't knock any one for wanting it factory. Iv been wrenching since 1976 at a Chevy Olds dealership and have a little knowledge about electronic systems as they continue to get old..... like me, they tend to not work so well with failures when you least expect it. Good luck finding your above issues ;)
 
Is there not a newer system that can be used I mean people put hydraulics on everything it seems like I'm just wondering if its possible there's a new air system that works, and all I can speak to is my experience and its been horrible with this specific spring setup in fact there's a short stretch of highway 411 past food city I can't do more than 30 on because the back end gets hella sketchy I found this out when I lost control doing 40 mph on a sunny day with new Michelin defenders on
 
Is there not a newer system that can be used I mean people put hydraulics on everything it seems like I'm just wondering if its possible there's a new air system that works, and all I can speak to is my experience and its been horrible with this specific spring setup in fact there's a short stretch of highway 411 past food city I can't do more than 30 on because the back end gets hella sketchy I found this out when I lost control doing 40 mph on a sunny day with new Michelin defenders on
There are 2 kinds of shocks, gas and oil, the latter being a hydraulic system of ported valving. the Monroe air shocks I put on mine are oil with air rebound rather than internal spring of a conventional. Its VERY rare that a car wares out or breaks a coil spring under normal driving conditions. If you are loosing rear grip over bumps, its either bad/cheap shocks or your A arm bushings/joints are wore out. Now that's not to say you just have really bad roads since any car with light rear ends like a MK8 can fish tail over broken pavement at speed.
 
More things on my long list of things to replace but yea in Tennessee we've got crappy roads, well there not bad just tdot drags their ass fixing them.
 
More things on my long list of things to replace but yea in Tennessee we've got crappy roads, well there not bad just tdot drags their ass fixing them.

Ha, ha... you think their bad here, their like paved in gold compared to the northern roads of PA & upstate NY. Back before alloy wheels were the thing on factory cars, you could find just about any hub cap made along bad spots in the road where the ground is on the wet side. Once the frost gets at that moisture in the road bed, the spring time pot holes were devastating to everything from bent rims to wiped out tie rods, wheel bearing and all the other joints. I would never ever buy another northern DD. Folks think rust is because all the calcium chloride they spray on the roads up there but that's half the rust story. Many times when a car out in the winter weather freezes during the night, its the warmer day time thaw that make condensation threw out all the metal of the vehicle. Inside & out the moisture literally will drip off the car as if it rained out. All that condensed water washes the road salts deeper into every nook & cranny. Buying Vehicles is a bad enough investment as it is, then a northern one on top of that? My 01 Dodge CTD is pure potato chip city threw out the under carriage. Dam sham....
 
Yea my wife and I went out to California to visit a an old Navy buddy of mine, and the 40 and the 80 were night and day different. Smooth sailing on the 40 and kidney jarring from Wyoming all the way to Kentucky
 
I so badly want air ride in our mark that way it runs like it was designed to. But I'd has some ebay no name spring conversion in it.

I've been lucky, I've had my Mark Viii for 8 years and never had anything happen to it.
I did change out the connector O-rings 3 years ago out of pre-caution.
 
Maybe I'm not reading the above posting right but it seems there is a slight contradiction there.... When I bought my 97 I ran it for a couple months with the front deflating every time you shut the car off. I researched everything there is to know about the system and reviewed the shop manual on the trouble shooting of the system. Only after all that thoughtful effort, I decided I'm not getting any younger in my wrenching abilities so it boiled down to springs with air shocks on the rear. In comparing the ride before and after, I think I made a good decision. I don't knock any one for wanting it factory. Iv been wrenching since 1976 at a Chevy Olds dealership and have a little knowledge about electronic systems as they continue to get old..... like me, they tend to not work so well with failures when you least expect it. Good luck finding your above issues ;)
Thanks no contradiction, to clarify, it has been fine until just the this winter, when the front right has started to go down in extreme cold weather, over night. But the last week or two when the car started raising to the max height if i left the system on, it no longer lowered in the cold and yes I let the system rise until normal height, then i turned it off.
I thought it was the front right height sensor. i have done some more searching and found it could be a wiring ground fault.
air ride testing.png

if you look at the chart above, (this is straight from the ford manual) according to the symptoms given, if the sensors are correctly installed, then the problem is electrical

double check fuses 28, in the instrument panel fuse panel and fuse 4 and 13 in the engine compartment fuse panel

at the air suspension/steering module, pin 10 (bk/pk) wire is common to all 3 height sensors

pin 28 (pk/w)wire is common to all 3 sensors

pin 7(pk/bk) is for l/f sensor

pin 8 (t) is for the r/f sensor

pin 9 is for the rear sensor

unplug the suspension module and all sensors check each circuit for opens, grounds and shorts

if the circuits are good and the sensors are installed properly then all that is left is the module
 
Is there not a newer system that can be used I mean people put hydraulics on everything it seems like I'm just wondering if its possible there's a new air system that works, and all I can speak to is my experience and its been horrible with this specific spring setup in fact there's a short stretch of highway 411 past food city I can't do more than 30 on because the back end gets hella sketchy I found this out when I lost control doing 40 mph on a sunny day with new Michelin defenders on
There are newer systems, but why pay more for a custom setup when you can buy new stock replacement parts that will last 10 or more worry free years? You can purchase new front shocks from autozone with lifetime warranty.

Should you still want to go custom, here are universal air suspension links and below that a slammer link:
Universal Air Struts

ShockWave Integrated Air Spring and Shock Absorbers

Custom Suspension Kits, Aftermarket Parts, Lighting, and Accessories - X2 Industries

Here is the link for new custom where you can slam the M8 to the ground.
SlamAir Shocks
 
Is there not a newer system that can be used I mean people put hydraulics on everything it seems like I'm just wondering if its possible there's a new air system that works, and all I can speak to is my experience and its been horrible with this specific spring setup in fact there's a short stretch of highway 411 past food city I can't do more than 30 on because the back end gets hella sketchy I found this out when I lost control doing 40 mph on a sunny day with new Michelin defenders on
i
Is there not a newer system that can be used I mean people put hydraulics on everything it seems like I'm just wondering if its possible there's a new air system that works, and all I can speak to is my experience and its been horrible with this specific spring setup in fact there's a short stretch of highway 411 past food city I can't do more than 30 on because the back end gets hella sketchy I found this out when I lost control doing 40 mph on a sunny day with new Michelin defenders on
i would check your complete rear suspension. Upper and lower control arms, sway bar, shocks etc. Not sure what you described can be blamed solely on the springs, unless something is seriously wrong with them and or their installation.
 
Wait they still make new stock air suspension components I was under the impression they no longer made this stuff not gonna lie that's a game changer for me.
 
I'll have to get the rear in the air to get a good look at it that'll be a few weeks though til my buddy clears out his driveway.
 
Thanks no contradiction, to clarify, it has been fine until just the this winter, when the front right has started to go down in extreme cold weather, over night. But the last week or two when the car started raising to the max height if i left the system on, it no longer lowered in the cold and yes I let the system rise until normal height, then i turned it off.
I thought it was the front right height sensor. i have done some more searching and found it could be a wiring ground fault.
View attachment 828573601
if you look at the chart above, (this is straight from the ford manual) according to the symptoms given, if the sensors are correctly installed, then the problem is electrical

double check fuses 28, in the instrument panel fuse panel and fuse 4 and 13 in the engine compartment fuse panel

at the air suspension/steering module, pin 10 (bk/pk) wire is common to all 3 height sensors

pin 28 (pk/w)wire is common to all 3 sensors

pin 7(pk/bk) is for l/f sensor

pin 8 (t) is for the r/f sensor

pin 9 is for the rear sensor

unplug the suspension module and all sensors check each circuit for opens, grounds and shorts

if the circuits are good and the sensors are installed properly then all that is left is the module

If in fact you have old air bags, I would suggest you put new ones in. The symptom you are describing is exactly what happens when the bag gets dry rot cracks along the out side of the bag where the bag bows outward the most. when you pump it up higher, the bow in the bulging bag straightens out just enough to do a self seal on its outer dry rot cracks. This has been discussed and pictured on another MK8 forum. But you are correct that ground problems also must all ways be considered. I wasn't joking about spending many, many hours reading about the air bag system. It is a fine system of checks and balances. I'm just too old now to deal with ageing, mine included.
 
I just want to point out you guys know a shit ton about these cars and tbh I'm an olds and chevy guy so some of this is foreign to me.
 
If the rear of your Mark is swaying from 40mph and up, check both axle retainer nuts and make sure they're at least 180-200ft pounds. If they're loose just a tad, the rear will sway back and forth. I have new air springs in the rear and Monroe Sensatrac shocks and the tires are Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring. Absolutely no sway, no loss of control on curves. Front air shocks were brand new when I put them on in 2012 for a little over $700. They were the newer Gen 2 style by Motorcraft that lasted 20 years the first time. Right after that, they vanished from all Ford parts and online stores that carried them. Everyone on here were buying them up. Arnott and a couple of others have the front bags and the rears are on eBay for less than $100 for Westar brand and Arnott have them on ebay also. The Westars have been fine so far. Since I have the Rays switch mounted in my console, I work the bags out from time to time, so they aren't always holding the car in the same place. I use a rubber conditioner once a year on the front ones, since they're non existent. Hopefully they'll last till at least 2030...lol. I doubt I'll even be driving that car then, but who knows. I just don't believe in car payments. It was a Florida car till 2010 and to Alabama it went with me. Has only spent about 5 nights outside. The rest have always been in the garage. Zero rust, not one spot of it anywhere under it. Look in Florida, Georgia, Miss and also Texas. Florida usually always has one for sale.
 
It seems like it would be a huge job to convert it and I will eventually once we have another car right now this is our only one. For now I'll be getting the non air arnott kit off advance auto and taking it to the Co-op and have them install it if I had a lift I'd do it myself. BTW how much would it cost to buy all the suspension bushings I mean everything? I'll check the retainer nuts at my buddies place once he gets the driveway cleared out, he's got way more tools than I do.
 

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