ideas and help

[ford nut]

Hey man just put it all together and tell us how fast it is. not all cars are the same. good luck

That makes no sense.

You can't just throw parts together and see if it might work.

The best cars....the fastest cars are thought out from the start.
You plan your work then work your plan.

The biggest mistake people make is just take a guess and buy parts and put them together and see what happens with no idea what they want or what they want the outcome to be.

I cant tell you the countless time I have seen people throw money at a car and make it go slower.

Before you buy one single part...sit down and decide what you want out of the car.
Do you just want a fast street car?
A weekend strip car you can drive to work?
A bracket car you can take to the DQ on the weekend.
Or a all out race car that never sees the street?

Once you decide do the research then make a plan....you will save tons of money when its all said and done.

 

[MediumD]

To run SHM stage 2 cams you would probably be wanting somewhere around 4200-4500 stall. And a massive trans cooler to go along with it.


Stock stall is nowhere near 2700. Acts like about a 2200.

 

[XLRVIII]

Stock stall is nowhere near 2700. Acts like about a 2200..

your talking about a 500 rpm diffference..

a good running car vs a poorly mantained car could easily see a 500 RPM difference is stall speed.

That's why most convertor manufacturers have a "1 free restall" deal.

I've seen about a 20HP, 30ft lb variance on stock mark 8's on the dyno
that 30 ft lbs of torque variance will affect stall speed.

My car will "flash" off idle to the 2400 - 2600 range
footbrake stall is closer to 2200 as you mentioned

There's 200-400RPM difference between foot brake stall and flash stall

 

[XLRVIII]

and tommy is a dick!

Thank you sir!

 

[htrdlincoln98]

That makes no sense.

You can't just throw parts together and see if it might work.

The best cars....the fastest cars are thought out from the start.
You plan your work then work your plan.

The biggest mistake people make is just take a guess and buy parts and put them together and see what happens with no idea what they want or what they want the outcome to be.

I cant tell you the countless time I have seen people throw money at a car and make it go slower.

Before you buy one single part...sit down and decide what you want out of the car.
Do you just want a fast street car?
A weekend strip car you can drive to work?
A bracket car you can take to the DQ on the weekend.
Or a all out race car that never sees the street?

Once you decide do the research then make a plan....you will save tons of money when its all said and done.

Just what I was triing to do. He's already bought the parts and didn't want to hear what some of you had to say. So there you go

 

[kustomizingkid]

Just what I was triing to do. He's already bought the parts and didn't want to hear what some of you had to say. So there you go

So you're trying to sugercoat the truth and tell him that it'll be all right, who cares if your car gets slower in the quarter mile because of your :q:q:q:qty mod combo....

His thread title wasn't Ideas For Going Slow....

 

[ford nut]

f me right well what would be the best thing to do if i sold those cams. should i go na or turbo or supercharger? and what else do i need?

Hey man just put it all together and tell us how fast it is. not all cars are the same. good luck

Just what I was triing to do. He's already bought the parts and didn't want to hear what some of you had to say. So there you go

He is talking about selling the cams.

You come in here and tell him to just throw the stuff together and see what it does.

Your right not all the cars are the same....a mustang and a mark are different.

I thought I offered some help...you on the other hand told him to go with the stuff he has high rpm cams and a low stall converter....great advise

 

[XLRVIII]

Those cams will probably make more "peak hp"..

but due to the high rpm desigh when they are in a heavy automatic street car the car will be a turd at any throttle setting other that WOT.

it'll make a 4000lb car FEEL like a 8000lb truck..

 

[itsnick6969]

Just what I was triing to do. He's already bought the parts and didn't want to hear what some of you had to say. So there you go

I actually do appreciate all input from anyone that knows their stuff that is why i am asking you guys.

I would like to make it a very fast street/strip car that gets driven on weekends.

so if i were to sell the heads and cams what kind of cams should i get? i would still like to keep the stall a 3000 if possible

and thanks for all the help again

 

[itsnick6969]

So you're trying to sugercoat the truth and tell him that it'll be all right, who cares if your car gets slower in the quarter mile because of your :q:q:q:qty mod combo....

His thread title wasn't Ideas For Going Slow....

Is there any way to change the title?

 

[MediumD]

your talking about a 500 rpm diffference..

a good running car vs a poorly mantained car could easily see a 500 RPM difference is stall speed.

That's why most convertor manufacturers have a "1 free restall" deal.

I've seen about a 20HP, 30ft lb variance on stock mark 8's on the dyno
that 30 ft lbs of torque variance will affect stall speed.

My car will "flash" off idle to the 2400 - 2600 range
footbrake stall is closer to 2200 as you mentioned

There's 200-400RPM difference between foot brake stall and flash stall

In my old 94, my 93, and my friends 97, I've seen a 'flash' stall of 2200, footbrake stall of closer to 2000. I am at 5300' above sea level, however when I travel to Phoenix, I see more like 2300/2100 (in my 93.) All of these cars stock for stock have been very close. The 97 I mentioned now has a 3000 stall Precision unit, which was worth just about 4 tenths. 500rpm is a pretty substantial difference, and I stand by my statement that stock stall is not 2700.

 

[XLRVIII]

I stand by my statement that stock stall is not 2700.

I'm looking at a datalog of my 98 which is stone stock.

you can clearly see 1.4 seconds into the street launch at 7.5MPH the rpm is at 2602.

as I said..MY car will flash up to 2400-2600

that was my guestimate before you challenged what I said and so I went and looked at the data..
IF I posted the datalog would you know what you were looking at?

I'm speaking from "real data"..

not "butt-0-meter guestimations based on a very innaccurate tachometer.

 

[kustomizingkid]

If you aren't going with at least a 3500rpm stall converter it isn't worth the trans fluid... imo

 

[kustomizingkid]

Also... Cams aren't worth it unless you have every :q:q:q:qing bolt on made for the car...


Driller ran a 13.1 with a bone stock engine and bolt ons, every bolt on mind you....

 

[itsnick6969]

do have have a list of most or all of the bolt on parts

 

[kustomizingkid]

Here is Drillers thread about busting the time...

Driller

I can't track down his full mod list.... give me some time

 

[itsnick6969]

thanks. i appreciate it.

 

[Frogman]

Heres the real question.... how fast do you really want to go?

Actually, the real question is, how much money does he have to spend?

I'm thinking a lot, since he just bought a bunch of useless parts.

 

[kustomizingkid]

Hmmmm... I can't find it <Frustrated> ... Send Driller a PM.

 

[itsnick6969]

well frogman if i sell those heads and cams to someone i will have some more money but i have all winter to buy and assemble but i just want a fast... fast as possible street/strip car.

 

[kustomizingkid]

Give us a real $ budget or a real track time....

 

[Frogman]

well frogman if i sell those heads and cams to someone i will have some more money but i have all winter to buy and assemble but i just want a fast... fast as possible street/strip car.

Fast as possible? You're looking at around $40K in parts for the motor, suspension, tranny, gears, to make it as "fast as possible".

Ask me how I know this.

 

[itsnick6969]

probably between 3000 and 5000 and i know you are a veteran with a bad ass car frogman. wanna keep rubbing it in or help out a fellow lincoln fan?

 

[kustomizingkid]

Well.... I would....

Full Tune up
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Gears+Tlock
Driveshaft
Stall Converter, 3500rpm with 4.10's would be good
Nitrous
SCT Chip with dedicated NA and Nitrous tunes

You would probably be at the high 13 second range NA and the mid to low 12 second range on the Spray.

Prices
Tune Up: $300
Walboro: $100
Gears+Tlock: $400
Install on Gears: $400-$500
Driveshaft: $400-$500
Converter: $600-$900
Nitrous: $600
Chip+Tunes: $500-$1000

Total: $3300 on the low side, $4300 on the high side

Note: This came straight out of my personal R&D notebook I've assembled for my personal go fast quest....

 

[itsnick6969]

only thing i do not have out of that list is the driveshaft fuel pump and the tune up... obviously last

what is the best forced induction way to go?
and would a detroit locker be the way to go over the track lock?

and the stall i bought is bad ass and i got it for a killer deal with the rest of the stuff it is a 3000 - 3200 would that be fine?