if a coil-on-plug goes bad will i throw a code for the specific COP?

[Banker]

every now and then i get a jerking while accelerating. generally when warmed up, cruising on the freeway or especially going up a steep hill. only once have i got a blinking "wrench light". manual says thats a misfire.

the previous owner had a COP go bad and i believe he took it to a shop which determined it to be a specific one. he maybe wasnt the brightest tho. he opted to change the COP himself and just changed all three on the one bank (i have teh V6. the bad one, according to the paperwork from the shop was on bank that does NOT require removing the intake manifold to get to them)

i have no code related to the COPs. i do have other codes...
-P2104 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Idle
-P2107 Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor
-P2110 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM
-P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open
(i think at the moment, after resetting codes, i only have two of these, but i've had all 4 at one time or another in the last six months.)

one of these has caused me to go into "limp home" mode about 4 times in the last 6 months. i simply turn the car off, turn it back on and it runs normal again.

could one of these be causing the misfire? it seems that the diagnostic flow chart is gonna point me at either the TPS, throttle plate actuator motor deal, or the sensor on the gas pedal...

before i had the wrench light i wasnt sure what the jerking/throttle hesitation was. i was also considering a transmission issue (mine was overhauled last year by the previous owner. master rebuild kit, new intermediate band, new overdrive band, rebuilt torque converter, new solenoid pack.)

the diagnostic flow chart also lists low fuel as one (of many) possible causes. im broke and frequently my gas light comes on before refueling but i have this jerking issue from time to time with at least a quarter tank.

regarding the sensor on the gas pedal, i have NEVER had this issue while using cruise control which i frequently use. so im thinking it might actually be that sensor? idk. i think crusie control bypasses the gas pedal since the pedal doesnt move when using cruise control (doesnt need to becuz of the electronic throttle body)

im waiting for a little more money to buy some decent software to go with my OBD-II to USB scan tool (OBDLink SX from scantool.net) so that i can view live data which i need to diagnose those codes according to the diagnostic flow charts on AllData reference center.

in the mean time... any ideas? anything i can learn will help me diagnose this as well as the throttle body codes.

 

[joegr]

With marginal COP failures, you often won't get a misfire code at all.
Most of the time, ETC problems are related to marginal COPs. They cause RF noise that confuses the electronics.

Your best course of action is to replace all six COPs and all six sparkplugs.

 

[Banker]

damn.
yeah, no misfire code, just the blinking wrench light that one time.
by marginal u mean it's failing but still works most of the time?

well at first i was thinking good news is that three of my COP are new. and the previous owner saved the three he took off. one of which is bad and the other two are original. i held onto them in case another one went bad but i guess this wont help me much especially if i cant determine yet which other one is going bad.

definitely need to replace all 6 plugs as well. again, 3 are new (but got knows what he put in there), and im assuming the other 3 are original.

thanks for the advice

 

[1LoudLS]

by marginal u mean it's failing but still works most of the time?

exactly

 

[rjcc]

I cannot find the process to check the codes despite searching, and afaik, autozone doesn't do it for free anymore?

can someone far more intelligent than I am drop a link or the process to check the codes myself?

 

[joegr]

I cannot find the process to check the codes despite searching, and afaik, autozone doesn't do it for free anymore?

can someone far more intelligent than I am drop a link or the process to check the codes myself?

The process is simple.

1. Get scan tool. *

2. Plug scan tool into OBDII port under steering wheel.

3. Turn key to run position (starting the engine is optional).

4. Read codes.

*: A generic (CAN compatible) $50 reader will read the simple emissions codes.
A Ford specific scanner ($400) will read all of the codes and do some of the programming calibration steps.
A high end ($1000+) scanner will do just about everything.

 

[MDavis0424]

Autozone by me still checks for free. I heard that they were no longer able to do this in California but as far as I know everywhere else still does it.

 

[Banker]

i think a lot of places no long do it for you but afaik no chain auto parts store has ever charged to let u use the their scan tool.

 

[Banker]

A generic (CAN compatible) $50 reader will read the simple emissions codes.
A Ford specific scanner ($400) will read all of the codes and do some of the programming calibration steps.
A high end ($1000+) scanner will do just about everything.

i just got the OBDLink SX scan tool from "scan tool . net" for $50 and im super happy with it. it hooks to ur laptop and comes with free software for code reading as well as a bunch of other nifty things (virtual gauges and whatnot)

i figure someone might as well get this instead a cheapo crappy $50 standalone code reader, cuz with this u can always upgrade to their paid software (like $90 i think). plus ive read too many bad reviews all over amazon for all the cheapo code readers.

but it's basically essential also to be able to read manufacturer specific codes so like i got the Ford addon to the software also for a little extra.

even paying for all that (like $200), there's not a standalone scan tool made that can come anywhere near that level of functionality for anywhere close to that price. i needed to be able to read live data (PID's as well as the Ford specific PID's) and this was by far the cheapest and best way to do it. only thing i havent figured out yet is how to do the Ford KOEO and KOER self tests. it doesnt seem to come built in to the software but i guess i just have to enter a long string of characters into the software's "terminal". i just havent found a reliable source for the string of characters. (hmm i feel a new thread coming on)

anyway for anyone even a tiny bit computer literate, i would always recommend the laptop based scan software over the handheld devices. way more flexible.

now off to walmart to buy a power inverter cuz my laptop batter just doesnt cut it.

 

[01continental]

My COPs were so bad that it was bucking like a mechanical bull. I never threw a single code yet there had to be at least 2 bad COPs. I replaced them all for good measure.

 

[Banker]

My COPs were so bad that it was bucking like a mechanical bull. I never threw a single code yet there had to be at least 2 bad COPs. I replaced them all for good measure.

did u ever have any problems with ur catalytic converters as a result of that? mine isnt nearly that bad but im trying not to drive it at all until later this week when i change change the COPs.

 

[01continental]

No cat problems. Since then I have removed the resonators and added a Magnaflow X pipe. It flows really good so at this point I don't suspect any problems. No rotten egg smells either.

 

[Banker]

just want everyone to know, sure enuf, i replaced all 6 COPs and all my symptoms have disappeared.