Its BACK! Overheating Again!

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frank_castle

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well the ls is still overheating. it has brand new Resevoir,thermostat, cap, and i did the bleed. i noticied today when the car was more than 3/4 on the temp gauge that the fan wasnt blowing very fast it was kind of like idling, also noticied that the fluid inside the pump resevoir wasnt circulating (not sure if it is suppose to?) and al the cap on top of the thermostat housing "the one with the allen hole to remove" is letting pressure. i saw bubbles being made. So what do u guys think it is. Im guessing all of the overheating issue cant be the cap above the housing because that shouldnt be the reason for the fan not to work. also it sucks that i cant tell if the fan is broken or if its the pump unless i know that at all time that liquid should be circulating in the pump resevoir (if anyone knows) also i also have on the list maybe that radiator itself but from a shetload of refrences on here not many problems with the radiator from what i noticed. so what do u guys think? thanks in advance for any help

"im stumped"
 
I'd replace the cap and/or thermostat first and go from there.
 
If you did a search, then you probably found my LS overheating checklist. If your reser., thermostat, hoses, and you bled the system correctly, then it sounds like a fan or a pump. are you losing any coolant? do you smell coolant? By this I mean before it completely over heats or you pull the cap off. I have done a search to see how to check the fan, but i have not found no way to check it unless it just locks up or makes alot of noise. i would check everything 1 more time before spending the bucu bucks to replace the fan pump or the radiator. especially if you arent for sure whats wrong.
 
If the system is leaking anywhere, then you are not holding pressure properly, which will allow air in and all your bleeding is for nothing.
Second I'm not certain where the coolant temp sensor is on your car, but if there is air in the system it could be insulating the sensor and the fan is not getting the proper signal to speed up.

Find out why that fitting is bubbling and where else you might have a leak, then check the fan.
 
2000 Lincoln LS V8, No Leaks, only bubbling from that cap in the thermostat housing. i just really dont think that the fan is blowing fast enough is there any way to trigger the fan to spin at max speed so i can test it? ohh yea and i already bleed the system. thanks
 
i was talking to a lincoln tech the other day he was telling me when there are overheating issues and they cant figure it out the best place to check and or replace is your hydraulic fan pump. its expensive and a pain in the ass but that is what i was informed. might want to check on that as an idea
 
$82 dollars to diagnose whats wrong with the car at the dealer so i droped it off and hope they call me back today or tomo to see what the problem is.
 
frank_castle said:
2000 Lincoln LS V8, No Leaks, only bubbling from that cap in the thermostat housing. i just really dont think that the fan is blowing fast enough is there any way to trigger the fan to spin at max speed so i can test it? ohh yea and i already bleed the system. thanks
Click to expand...
you keep saying no leaks, but then you say its bubbling at the cap in the thermostat housing. Bubbles equal a leak. Bubbles also mean air is getting back into the system from somewhere (probably that cap when you shut the motor down.

You have got to get the system closed and fully bled out, before you can worry about the fan.
 
i do apologize i know the bubbling equals leak"sorry" but that still is no reason why the fan isnt spinning up like a jet engine when the temp starts to go up
 
Okay, lets just take a look at this for a second.
There is an engine coolant temp sensor in the car. It is supposed to send a value to the PCM (so the PCM can set the speed of the fan) and the temp guage.
If the fan is not speeding up, this sensor could be in an air pocket or it could be bad. Either one of those conditions would allow the motor to overheat without the fan running fast enough.
Now I don't know how you are determining that the motor is overheating, is it by the temp guage, the info center or something else?
if it is something else and none of the instrumentation is showing an overheating condition then you have a bad sensor or big air pocket.

Since I don't know the exact details as to how you can tell that it is overheating, I can't say this is a definite.

on the other hand, even if it is the pump and you get it replaced, you still have to get the leak stopped and the system bled out.

I would like to know how you make out.
I'm very interested at this point in exactly what the issue is.
 
there are 3 sensors that drive the guage in the car and the fan speeds. The coolant temperature sensor and both cylinder head temperature sensors. The coolant temp sensor, as I understand it, normally drives the gauge and the fans. The CHT sensors are used for other things (like backing off timing, cancelling VVT, etc.) by the PCM. HOWEVER, when a CHT reads an overheat condition it will cause the gauge to rapidly rise and show an overheat condition including an overheat light and some sort of "limp home mode" type of message.

Many here have had the air pocket issue which in my opinion caused overheating in the cylinder heads and the "instant" overheat condition. I suspect on YOUR car you are going to find that something is wrong w/your fan and/or pump.

Question, the bubbles out of the cap...is that a cap that is designed to relieve pressure in overheat or is it just a cap? If it's the former, then it's not inconceivable to think that it is simply doing its job by allowing vapors to escape if you ARE overheating.
 
My understanding was he was referring to the bleed cap near the thermostat housing. The pressure cap on the reservoir.

The thought was it could be the signal to the pcm for the fan, and not the fan pump. It would be a logical thing to check and probably cheaper to replace if need be.
I know that the fan pumps don't have a stellar reputation (of course neither do ford electric cooling fans), but they don't always fail.

I wonder what part of Ford's prototype mileage testing is lacking such that so many of their cars can be produced with cooling fan issues, ignition coil issues, transmission issues and more. What part of the testing fails to relate to the realities of naturally accumulated high mileage?
 
I would think if there is a wiring/signaling issue it would throw a code of some sort.
 
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