Just bought a '93 need help.

The Rev

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This is my first post, I've been reading here for months (you'll see why) and I just registered yesterday, it's a little long sorry.



OK here's the story.

I'd been saving for my first personal car for a while when the mechanics at my Mother's cab company says he sells cars on the side too. He asked what I wanted and I said ideally, something big, American, and powerful. Ideally I wanted a Mustang but he told me he had a great car for me, 600 bucks. A 1993 Mark VIII. Only bad side was that it needed a paint job and he didn't have any paperwork. Against my Mother's advice I bought it, figuring "well as long as there's no mechanical problems it'll be a good first car".

So I bought and paid for it in March with the understanding he'd tow it the next day knowing that it needed tires and a real good tuneup, and of course a paint job. FINALLY got it towed down here. (he had originally told me that he didn't want to drive it because it's been sitting for 2 years and he had no inspection and couldn't use dealers plates to move it)

First thing was the battery was dead, replaced that, but it had flat tires (been sitting for 2 years again) so I got air in them, but one leaks bad. Here's the bad part, all four tires have circular (i have pics if needed) locked lugnuts. And after driving it around the block I realized the brakes are horribly rusted, i didnt top out over 5 mph. A friend of mine who's dad is a mechanic (only on imports, mostly tuners) told me I need to get rotors, pads, you know, the whole shabam. That and backing out of my driveway I got a hole the size of a skittle in my oil pan, so it leaks crazy fast.

Now the need for advice:

One of the locked lugnuts is in such bad shape i have no idea how to remove it.
I bought "lugnut removers" from pepboys with no luck. Does anyone know where to get the lugnut keys? I know people have said dealers will remove them for little or no cost but remember I cant even stop the car so I can't move it.

The oil pan needs to be replaced, I bought a Chilton's over the internet and am waiting for that to come in. I don't know how to do that because I've never really worked on a car (but will have tons of time to learn in the summer) but if anyone has done it what tools are needed and is it something thats hard to do?

And besides that, after I get the locks off the tires I'd like to get some good brakes (the friend i talked about loves his brembo setup). On this car I'd like to replace the rotors and pads, what else should I replace? I know its hard to say over the internet but my friend said the calipers should be good. I want to get the slotted cross drilled, you know, good ones.


If anyone's read all of this, got any reccomendations? I'd like to do as much of the work as possible by myself (with the help of people I know) and i DONT want to go back to the guy i bought it from because i annoyed him so much over the few months i was trying to get him to tow it i think he set me up for failure (the back tires were bald when i paid for it, now those tires are in the front) and i'd like to get it up and running and then go see him to see the look on his face. But with all of this taken into consideration does anyone have rough estimates on 1) how to get the locks off, either with tools i can buy and what not or what someone might charge 2) all the things i'd need for a good brake job 3) where to buy parts for this car online, i do need the oil pan and 4) things i need to perform a tuneup (including tools, where to buy em, etc etc i'd like to start learning everything with this car)

I know it may be a little too much to ask for but after doing all this research on this car I've fallen in love with them and want to make this one as good as it can be.

PS: 110,000 miles.
 
I have no idea, when i got the car it had no oil in it, i filled it up, let it sit overnight, then nothing, after starting it and letting it run it leaked out, it was really rusted and what not
 
Man it sounds like the guy you bought the car from was a joke! Next time you see him you should slap the :q:q:q:q out of him. LoL
 
To get the oil pan off, you will need to lower the subframe.

The subframe is held on by bolts that require an E-18 size torx socket to remove.

It will be a time consuming job.

Oh, yeah...

you'll need something to hold the engine up in the car while you have the subframe down.
 
Does anyone know where to get the lugnut keys? I know people have said dealers will remove them for little or no cost but remember I cant even stop the car so I can't move it.


Take a photo of the locking lug - and take that to the dealership. Then they can sell you a key. I believe the patterns all have the same depth. If you do this, and there is more then one lock that looks like the one, buy all of them and return whichever dont fit. (let the guy know to make sure you can do this)
 
OK great advice thanks for everything. I've got 800 bucks set aside. I need to get a new oil pan, 4 new tires (got a quote of 30 bucks a pop used and ive bought tires for 3 different cars from this guy so thats straight) and all the stuff for the brakes.

There's a shop right around the corner from my house, but i'd like to do the brakes myself, i've done brakes on a 92 century twice, but what parts are involved with the 93 mark? i need fronts and back, total overhaul, i'd like to go brembo but i checked online and couldnt find any, but if any of you guys have any personal preferences regarding performance/price let me know, and again thanks for the quick support you guys are great i cant wait to get started.
 
Sounds like the guy took advantage of you.

I don't know what Chilton's manual you purchased, but I'm not aware of them ever making one for the Mark VIII. The closest bet is to get one for the Ford Thunderbird/Cougars. Otherwise, you'll be best served finding most of your "how-to" stuff on MarkVIII websites.

The brakes are very easy to do. Basic hand tools in the front. The backs are a pain because of the emergency brake. You'll need one of those tools ( you can usually borrow from the parts store) to retract the emergency brake piston.

You're working on a budget, so I wouldn't even begin thinking in terms of "Brembo" or shiney painted stuff yet. Just get the best pad you can afford at the auto parts store. I've been using ceramic pads for a years now, I like the reduced brake dust .

Also, it sounds like your air ride is shot. Do you get a check air ride warning inside the car? Do you hear the compressor turn or when you start the car? Does it inflate, then deflate over the night? If you hit the oil pan on the way out of the driveway, I'm inclined to think the car is too low.

Max at 5 Star Ford is the vendor I use for all my motorcraft parts.
Rockauto.com is the source for the other brands.
Often time parts sold for the T-bird (specifically some suspension) fit our cars perfectly, but cost 1/3 of the Lincoln price.
And ebay always has parts available.

And don't even consider starting that car until you get that oil pan fixed. The engine in this car is great. It'll last a real long time, unless you overheat it or run it with oil. That is certain death.

New plugs and wires will run you about $150 in parts also. And they need to be done carefully because you have aluminum heads.
 
thanks for bringing up the title, the last state it was registered in was mass, im in RI. the guy i bought it from doesnt have anything but the bill of sale from when he bought it. any ideas on how to go about this? ive been doing research but cant find too much.

and about the brakes i'll definitely take that into consideration thanks, the air ride seems to be fine, when it was towed here it hadnt been started for 2 years, so obviously it was lowriding, but after starting it it rose right up and i havent started it in 3 days and its still high, it may have problems, i got the air ride when i started it for the first time but not since then. i really hope the air ride is fine. So it looks like you guys have given me a pretty good to do list this week, i need to get the locks off, brakes replaced, and oil in the car enough to drive 1/8 of a mile to the garage, if anyone has any other comments or suggestions, im BRAND new to this and will take any advice you have.
 
I would try to get my money back If I were you. Do not pour any money into it at all. If the guy is a jerk, then chalk it up as a lesson learned, use that Mark as a parts car, and look for a better condition Mark.
 
I got some locking lug nuts off once by using a 3/4" deep well socket--it was just a tiny bit too small to slip on--and beat it on with a hammer, then used a breaker bar, and they came right off. The socket ended up cracking on the last one, but it still worked well enough to get them all off. I then bought a whole new set of lug nuts from Pep Boys or somewhere.
Just my 2 cents.
 
if the guy you baught the car from owns a buisness . i assume he does cause he has a tow truck all he has to do is put a lein on the car and get a title thrue the dmv . atleast that is how it works here.
 
Sometimes only a bill of sale is all you need to get a title to it , that is how it is here. Get a bill of sale from the guy you bought it from and take it to the DMV and ask them what you need to do.
 
You go taken bad on that deal.

If you can't do the work on the car yourself sell it right now. You will be out so much money getting it fixed, the oil pan alone would be about what you paid for the car to get it fixed.
 
as far as paperwork is concerned, the cab company my mom drives for doubles as an auto dealer, the mechanic for the cabs is just a bum, the owner of the cab company hates his mechanic and has agreed to work with my mom to take care of all the paperwork, and possibly insure the mark through his company so thats all taken care of.

the 800 i have set aside will be 1,000 by the end of the month, and i got price quotes for used front tires and all the brakes i need for 250. leaving 750 for getting the oil pan fixed and luglocks off

im getting my moms oil changed tomorrow at the shop near the house, i'll check with him and see what he'll do it for, thanks for everything and keep it coming, I dont want to talk to this guy because he's a prick and wants me to go crawling back begging for help, im kinda stuck in a foolish pride thing where i want to get this thing working just to show him (and everyone who said not to buy it) up. As far as getting my money back he's a broke prick, it would be one of those " ill take the car off your hands and pay you week by week" kinda deals, so im chalkin it up to a lesson learned and it'll be the last time i do something this stupid again
 
Just make that oil pan the first priority. It's going to be more expensive than you might be anticipating to have it done by a mechanic. Tires and brakes on an car with no engine aren't any help.
 
You can torch the lug locks off if you are very careful. My friend who works at a junkyard gets to do about 5 cars a day, he has it down to perfection.

Another thing you can do is buy a very cheap socket and weld it to the luglock and then just spin it off. You will need 4 sockets though or you can weld the luglock to the next lug lock that is welded to the socket.
 
the guy at the corner of the street said he'll melt em off for 10 bucks if i can get it down there
 
If I don't have cheap no name socket that will hammer on the wheel lock tight.I just mig weld nuts to end of wheel lock then use socket on the nut to remove. On some rims wheel lock sits in rim some so I don't like to flame them out.
 

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