Just Replaced DCCV

Do you think it could be the interior temperature sensors? Ive seen those being a problem in some other cases?

And I really want to thank you for helping me out!
 
FreakinLinkin said:
Do you think it could be the interior temperature sensors? Ive seen those being a problem in some other cases?

And I really want to thank you for helping me out!
Click to expand...

It could be. There are four of them. Two discharge temperature sensors (driver and passenger), one evaporator temperature sensor (I've heard of these failing), and one ambient (interior) temperature sensor. There's also the exterior temperature sensor, but you can check that by switching to exterior temp on the DATC display.
 
Next time it does that keep the setting as is but turn off the AC with the AC button, then monitor air coming out of the dash vents over the next 10 minutes. See if starts to cool off even though the AC is off and just the blower is running. Then turn the AC back on with the AC button if so.

You might be freezing up the evaporator due to low freon or clogged air flow through the cabin filter or assembly.
 
TooManyToys said:
Next time it does that keep the setting as is but turn off the AC with the AC button, then monitor air coming out of the dash vents over the next 10 minutes. See if starts to cool off even though the AC is off and just the blower is running. Then turn the AC back on with the AC button if so.

You might be freezing up the evaporator due to low freon or clogged air flow through the cabin filter or assembly.
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Nope 10 mins 100+ degree air with a/c off and i just changed my cabin air filter when it said 15% on the status display.
 
I took the sensor (evap) out and it worked an hour drive and it worked i really wanna thank you everyone who helped
 
Well... It went out again and when i put the new sensor in it didnt help looked at the compressor and it looks like it has oil on the bottom bad compressor? :/ still no datc codes
 
FreakinLinkin said:
Well... It went out again and when i put the new sensor in it didnt help looked at the compressor and it looks like it has oil on the bottom bad compressor? :/ still no datc codes
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Well, I've known of several of these to fail that way, one of mine included. Fortunately, I noticed mine leaking oil before it failed and replaced it before it could fail and contaminate the rest of the system. If yours has already run out of oil, then you will need to replace the compressor, the receiver/dryer, and the expansion valve, and then fully flush everything else. The expansion valve will be the big problem, since the whole dash had to come out to change it.
 
You can only do so much guesswork through the computer. The compressor should be checked to see if the oil is from the A/C or elsewhere. I believe the system comes from the factory with dye already in the freon so it should be a simple check. And at the same time gauges should be put on it to see how the system is functioning and retains the correct quantity of freon. Continuing to throw parts at a system with no fault codes is nuts.
 
I just dont understand why it would work then stop then work again. I guess its time to take it in and lube up
 
Well at the dealership he says compressor is on the way out but the DCCV is the main issue of my a/c and that I need to use OEM parts and quoted me 360 for labor putting dccv in and 1400 for compressor replacement but he said the compressor hasnt catastrophicly failed so im gonna buy copressor and dccv from autozone and just get another shop to install it.
 
FreakinLinkin said:
Well at the dealership he says compressor is on the way out but the DCCV is the main issue of my a/c and that I need to use OEM parts and quoted me 360 for labor putting dccv in and 1400 for compressor replacement but he said the compressor hasnt catastrophicly failed so im gonna buy copressor and dccv from autozone and just get another shop to install it.
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I have to warn that my previous experiences with Autozone parts were bad enough that I don't use them for anything anymore.

I say get it done at the dealer and get a promise up front that this will fix all problems with your climate control or any more work or parts required will be paid for by the dealership. (Good dealers will agree to this, bad ones won't.)
 
Gee, maybe someone took back a slightly used DCCV back to Autozone and you ended up getting it.

It's like COPs.

Lets see, you bought a DCCV from Autozone and put it in. The dealership says it's not working correctly as it's not the same as a Ford supplied part, so your going back to Autozone to get another one of the questionable parts. Have I got that right?

Plus you going to hunt down a shop to do the work that is willing to make less profit as you will supply the parts.

Done with this thread.
 
TooManyToys said:
Gee, maybe someone took back a slightly used DCCV back to Autozone and you ended up getting it.

It's like COPs.

Lets see, you bought a DCCV from Autozone and put it in. The dealership says it's not working correctly as it's not the same as a Ford supplied part, so your going back to Autozone to get another one of the questionable parts. Have I got that right?

Plus you going to hunt down a shop to do the work that is willing to make less profit as you will supply the parts.

Done with this thread.
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First off I meant rockauto.com and second I already have a shop that will that I've been a customer with since my first car and last I'm not gonna miss you not like you have helped anyway and the guy said they would go back and be thrown away that is how warranty replacements are handled. And they worked when I took them in just fine even if he lied to me.
 
I may be having this issue now. I'm not sure. The A/C had slowed down (no where close to 68 degrees) but the system thought it was cool enough to slow the fan. Suddenly, I get hot air. About 30 seconds later cool air. It happened 3 times tonight in about 10 minutes.
 
Pardon my stupid question here in this tread, but is this all sensor related the same for
a problem where I'm getting cold AC air out the driver vents but luke warm out the passenger vents ?
 
BigRigLS said:
Pardon my stupid question here in this tread, but is this all sensor related the same for
a problem where I'm getting cold AC air out the driver vents but luke warm out the passenger vents ?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the answer is maybe yes, maybe no.
Your problem could be related to the passenger air discharge sensor, or it could be a failing DCCV, a failing DATC, failing compressor, failing expansion valve, or low AC (R-134a) refrigerant level.
 
Thanks Joe,
I was hoping to start with any interior sensors, take it from there.
 
Cold A/C

joegr said:
Unfortunately, the answer is maybe yes, maybe no.
Your problem could be related to the passenger air discharge sensor, or it could be a failing DCCV, a failing DATC, failing compressor, failing expansion valve, or low AC (R-134a) refrigerant level.
Click to expand...

6 weeks ago my A/C was underperforming and it seemed like one side was blowing colder than the other. Started with a refrigerant recharge and so far so good...
 
Does anyone have a part number / picture of this sensor? I need to replace mine. Just did DCCV, and I'm having the same problems. I used a Motorcraft DCCV.
 
So I have a 2000 V8 that I'm having some similar issues with. Since I've had it I've had weak heat on idle with more heat upon acceleration. I replaced the aux pump with no improvement.
This summer I was driving with a passenger and they noticed hot air coming from the passenger side and I had cold on the driver side. So I replaced the DCCV, bled the system and now had heat 100% of the time. I got frustrated so I drained everything and removed the DCCV and tested it on a bench with a power supply and both valves work just fine. I also tested the aux pump and that also works. I put together 5 wires with some insulation stripped off them so that I can interrupt the harness going to the DCCV and the aux pump and use a meter to see what pins are getting voltage when I turn the heat on/off. I'm not sure what numbers I should see so I'm hoping someone can help me out there but when I tested it I was around 30mv on the DCCV pins. So I'm thinking the DATC is my issue. Wondering if you guys have any suggestions on what to look for on my meter while probing the wires or if I should just grab a DATC at a junkyard and hope for the best? Doesn't seem like DATCs fail too often like the coils or DATC so I'm fairly confident grabbing one from a junkyard.

Edit:no codes on the DATC when I run diag
 
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