LCA-SRB wind-up???

ive got problems too and mine are all new moog parts. i even took it to a mechanic. he said everything was tight but i was pissed because he put 5 minutes work into checking things.

my sound is at high or low speeds as well. it almost sounds like a an empty suitcase beng dropped down a flight ofr stairs :) sometimes it sounds high like near the upper control arms sometimes it sounds low. its all on the right side of the car as well. the driver side is perfect.

if you figure it out for the love of god let me know.. there was so many mistakes when mine was done its not even funny. we tightened up everything with out loading the suspension for starters :) never kept track of the streering wheel position and god knows what else. i also get a nasty clunk when turning the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right.

ever since i took it to the mechanie who said he pryed on places checking my suit case sound isnt as prodominate anymore. however i get a sound that reminds me the pop o matic bubble from the trouble game but with out the dice inside of it.

there isnt to much that pisses me off about a car more then clunks squeeks and leaks. and i got all 3 right now.
 
Shook it out (paying close attention to outer tie rod ends) no obvious deficiencies; then loosened the nuts on the sway bar end links; drove my car around the block a few times- turning side-side hard and hammering the brake pedal a time or to. No clunk driving with loose end link nuts. Went home, jacked it up then re-loaded the suspension. Tightened the nuts then test drove again. It was a short drive but so far my clunk seems to be gone about 95% or more. I still have some squeaks to find
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edit:
after driving 50 miles to work the next morning, I can see my initial presumption from my short test drive was overly optimistic; I still have some clunking, but I think it's reduced, next step is to drive further with sway bar end link nuts loosened or with end links removed; also may go ahead and r/r strut mounts with new KYB's; someone suggested jacking the car up, loading the suspension, then (from inside the wheel) rapping on the bottom of the tire with a 5lb. hammer to try and duplicate the clunk and find it :shifty:
 
Never heard of a sway bar link making a clunk sound only a rattle when driving. Your new part's are probably good to go. Start looking into the used parts you put on. Maybe they weren't up to par.
 
Spree said:
Never heard of a sway bar link making a clunk sound only a rattle when driving.
Click to expand...
Lux started a good thread on this,
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...ks-when-going-over-bumps-everything-new/page2
I definitely think my noise went down after loosening/re-tightening them on loaded suspension. I talked to my dad earlier, like usual he spoke logic: the car drives really, really well. No vibrations in the wheel, turns fine, no weirdness; i should forget about a little clunk here and there (which I only hear at very low speeds btw) - move on to the next repair for this car (there are MANY)
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side note: I called a garage earlier to get a price on r/r strut mounts: dude said, based on Supercoupe book hours, 3.5 hours labor; and an alignment...over $400 total, just labor! kook
 
dnsherrill said:
Lux started a good thread on this,
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...ks-when-going-over-bumps-everything-new/page2
I definitely think my noise went down after loosening/re-tightening them on loaded suspension. I talked to my dad earlier, like usual he spoke logic: the car drives really, really well. No vibrations in the wheel, turns fine, no weirdness; i should forget about a little clunk here and there (which I only hear at very low speeds btw) - move on to the next repair for this car (there are MANY)
Click to expand...

not me. i couldnt do it. if it clinks clanks rattles or does something that it didnt do before i started a repair it will drive me insane till i cure it. or at the very least identify it so i can assess risk.
 
Mine doesn't make any noise now but I'm still on air, don't know much about the conversion. Mine made noise when turning all the way right/left but it was the LCA's.
 
Like I said take out the sway bar end links and test drive if the noise is gone put on new end links. If the noise gose away im
90% sure new links will work
 
rear rotors are way past due for r/r...fronts are due.....gonna knock that out first
 
so I've been driving with my clunky rebuilt front end for a few weeks now, today I paid NTB to remove the coil over shocks and r/r the strut mounts (new KYB's);
instant fix, took it for a test drive and: no more clunky clunk :cool:
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here's one of the old mounts, pretty sure it was the problem:
P7060416_zps4b5e925b.jpg

looks like I'm finally done putting time and money into rebuilding the front end
 
dnsherrill said:
so I've been driving with my clunky rebuilt front end for a few weeks now, today I paid NTB to remove the coil over shocks and r/r the strut mounts (new KYB's);
instant fix, took it for a test drive and: no more clunky clunk :cool:
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here's one of the old mounts, pretty sure it was the problem:
P7060416_zps4b5e925b.jpg

looks like I'm finally done putting time and money into rebuilding the front end
Click to expand...


One of mine pulled the washer all the way through. I may need to double check it as I did put a brand new one of these on their. however never hurts to double check to make sure. glad you found your clunk.
 
it sux buying used parts that need replacing/repair: this strut mount was on the shocks-coils I bought from the guy in Waco a few months ago. He changed the coils from Vogs to Eibachs prior to shipping
 
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now I'm driving the White Car (again) on a daily basis, I've got some squeaks (especially at very low speeds, going over speed bumps);
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with the car parked, I can make the front end squeak after 4 or 5 times pushing the fender down really hard;
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it's at 199k now, at 109k miles I replaced: UCAs, strut mounts, LCAs, tie rod ends inner and outer, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings (only at LCAs, not the forward ones). All quality components- Moog or TRW, Ford oem SRBs.
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so what the HEEL is squeaking??? SRBs are wound up? sway bar bushings need more lube? dust shields bent?
 
Green Machine said:
Need a lube job?
Click to expand...
I guess that's possible. I thought that I lubed up every ball joint with a grease fitting upon installation.
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I may try loosening or removing the end links to see if that changes squeaking possibly from the sway bar bushings or from the end links?
 
got some help diagnosing today...5k miles and 9 months ago I replaced everything on the front end EXCEPT the forward SRBs (at the K-frame)...and they are squeaking now- I can feel the cupped washer vibrate when someone pushes down/up on the fender. Which forward SRBs are good to use a replacement? I know the rear ones should be oem
 
As I said on Facebook, (for others reading this), the rear SRB's don't really NEED to be OEM. I've had good experiences with other aftermarket brands.

HOWEVER, the forward SRB's should definitely be the OEM style. They're the only ones that consistently last longer than 5-10k miles....
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
As I said on Facebook, (for others reading this), the rear SRB's don't really NEED to be OEM. I've had good experiences with other aftermarket brands.

HOWEVER, the forward SRB's should definitely be the OEM style. They're the only ones that consistently last longer than 5-10k miles....
Click to expand...

quoted for truth. i agree.
 
what size wrench/socket(s) will I need to remove the nuts on the forward end of that strut rod?
 
I think it's 32mm, but not sure., as I remember buying a deep well for it, but now I can't find it.

Beat to the punch, and probably the correct answer. (30mm)
 
what's wrong with the metal sleeves that come with the Moog, Rayb, ACDelco or Duralost bushing kits?
 
edit post #37- I rebuilt the front end (sans fwd SRBs) at 109k, now it's at 119k
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Weekend Warrior back at it:
RH
20140426_190612[1].jpg
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LH
20140426_185621[1].jpg
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removed
20140426_184722[1].jpg
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reusable!
20140426_185042[1].jpg

20140426_190612[1].jpg


20140426_185621[1].jpg


20140426_184722[1].jpg


20140426_185042[1].jpg
 
removing the forward SRBs I followed the service manual:
-back off inner retaining nut, which actually means turn clockwise?
-remove outer retaining nut
-remove lower shock bolt to LCA
-remove brake hose bracket from body
(now the manual says to remove the outer washer and bushing then 'pry' the strut rod through the frame)
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I couldn't pry the strut rod back through the subframe so I:
a)loosened/removed 3 shock tower bolts b)loosened LCA to frame camber bolt after marking ecc washer at frame for general realignment...c)loosened UCA to fender bolts d)loosened/removed UCA to spindle bolt
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then I loosened (turned counterclockwise) the inner SR retaining nut so as to push against the SRB washer and eventually push the rod back through the bushings and frame, as pictured above
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the LH side moves freely enough to do what I need to-install new bushings, but the RH side is pushed against the frame tighter than a dick's hat band! idk how I'm gonna get some play for that side...suggestions? I'm thinking maybe I need to remove the retaining nut from the strut rod to LCA, just behind the LBJ, maybe remove the camber bolt? maybe get a 2x4 cut to length and wedge it between the front of the subframe and the outer part of the LCA?
 
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