joegr
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Yes, that's the message center. It's on all V8s and no V6s.
Lincoln LS getting terrible mileage
- Thread starter LincolnLS_2013
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Yes, that's the message center. It's on all V8s and no V6s.
der3wuste3fuchs
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Well shoot. Guess I'll have to go old school. Thanks.
RigsLS
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Reasoning behind the V6 not having the Mileage counter is due to the fact they didn't want
you guys with your V6's to see how badly your getting ripped off with two less cylinders.
Information I read, showed the LS V6 getting just a fraction of a couple of miles better results then the V8. Not by a lot IMO.
and here you coulda' had a V8.
@LincolnLS_2013,
Are you sure you are looking at MPG, cuz 11something is somewhat normal around town if it's set to 100KMs/L.
Stop and go with a little foot into it, I do about 10-13L per 100KMs. (around town)
not much better then 9L per 100KMs on highway longer distance.
Also, if you constantly reset the thing, it's going to give you false readings around town.
it's meant to allow to settle and give a more accurate reading per tank in overall city & highway driving.
Obviously it averages.
If you are concerned that you are putting $20 worth of fuel in it every second day, that's very normal.
Don't get much for $20 these days.
BTW:
I will be parting with those tires soon if your interested. 3 for 4 sale!
make me an offer I can't refuse. They are all seasons but more closely to a summer
and you really do want pure Ice and Snow tires for winter.
These tires would serve you well if your in a pinch for rubber this summer.
let me know, if not they are going on Kijiji.
you guys with your V6's to see how badly your getting ripped off with two less cylinders.
Information I read, showed the LS V6 getting just a fraction of a couple of miles better results then the V8. Not by a lot IMO.
and here you coulda' had a V8.
@LincolnLS_2013,
Are you sure you are looking at MPG, cuz 11something is somewhat normal around town if it's set to 100KMs/L.
Stop and go with a little foot into it, I do about 10-13L per 100KMs. (around town)
not much better then 9L per 100KMs on highway longer distance.
Also, if you constantly reset the thing, it's going to give you false readings around town.
it's meant to allow to settle and give a more accurate reading per tank in overall city & highway driving.
Obviously it averages.
If you are concerned that you are putting $20 worth of fuel in it every second day, that's very normal.
Don't get much for $20 these days.
BTW:
I will be parting with those tires soon if your interested. 3 for 4 sale!
make me an offer I can't refuse. They are all seasons but more closely to a summer
and you really do want pure Ice and Snow tires for winter.
These tires would serve you well if your in a pinch for rubber this summer.
let me know, if not they are going on Kijiji.
smoothLSV8
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I don't trust Canadians when it comes to gallons. I am all on board when they talk liters and kilometers and kilograms.
der3wuste3fuchs
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Of course I find out the V8/V6 difference is not much AFTER I buy the car.
Ha, it's all good though, I got mine for $3,500 and it's been a good deal.
I also had to buy it for practical reasons..
LincolnLS_2013
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Hehehe, no I don't warm it up. I read the Lincoln manual that came with the vehicle when I bought it, and there was a section that mentioned right in there -- vehicles after 1990's (or even 80's, don't remember) didn't need to be "warmed up" before driving.
But at one point in the winter, when it was coldest day in over 10 years here, my car wouldn't start. At that point I found it had a block-heater hidden and started using it. But using block-heater ended up costing me an extra $40/mo in electricity :shifty:
Yeah man, I'm always in L/100km and then just convert on Google lol. Just Google "20L/100km to mpg" and it will show you the conversion right at the top.
Recently I've been getting 17.8L/100km because I'm uping the crazy in my driving. Seems the faster I accelerate and drive the less I burn. It's more fun too.
But yeah, without effort it's right back at 20L/100km. And since I barely/never get on the highway (I live/work in the same area), that's the average of a month of city driving.
I'm filling a tank of premium every week at Costco - $91 for 70 litres.
I used to be doing $40/week in my Cavalier
Man, it's painful. Really painful. Every 5km is $1.30
If I didn't make $65/hr I would be really depressed.I think I might eventually trade in for an ELIO (80mpg)
I'm just worried cause you said one of the tires you bought after a blow-out, so it's probably got more tread than the rest. Think that might hurt my alignment.
How much you want for them? How far you driven them, and what's the manufacturing year? Asking about year because I hear regardless of tread the tires need to be replaced every 5 years cause the oils dry-up and they no longer grip the road as well.
RigsLS
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Yeah, no worries, I'll put them on Kijiji.
re: blow-out - it was actually a pothole that popped a bulge in the sidewall, which I then replaced with new tire.
. Im running e3 plugs that I really like, they gained me about 3 mpgs. I had standard motorcraft plugs that didnt look to bad to begin with. I'm averaging about 26 to 28 on the highway I live out in the stix though I don't have any city near by. Its 75 anywhere I go.
OP if you are getting bad mpg in city driving you need to randomly start checking the tach, noting the rpms at the given speed, then set the cruise and let off the pedal. my guess is that your rpms will drop when the computer controls the throttle vs when you had your foot on the pedal. you just have a lead foot and its causing the torque converter clutch (TCC) to engage/disengage and/or possibly causing you to drive around town in 4th instead of 5th, thus killing your city mpg.
no one here has actually tried to diagnose a possible coil issue: how many miles are on them? are you experiencing misfire issues? your coils may not be bad, it may just be your leadfoot. coils do fail often tho and i would guess any misfiring on coils with >60k miles would be an almost surefire sign of at least 2 out of spec coils, if not the coil in every cylinder being out of spec. there are warranties for certain yrs for free replacement from lincoln. search for those, bc im pretty sure theyre posted somewhere here. definitely posted in TSB's for your yr.
warming up the car is not necessary. however, i warm it up until the needle moves off of the C for cold too and my mpg is not s_hit in the city. its closer to 20mpg with the warm-up included. i have a genII v6 though, for what its worth.
the fact it smells like gas when you are idling is a concern. could be a million different things... i recommend a trip to your dealer to diagnose.
you definitely need to swap the fuel filter, run a bottle of lucas (or techron or whatever you prefer) thru the system. shocked no one mentioned that. cleaning the MAF and throttle body (with teflon safe cleaner only) wont kill ya either.
lastly, someone made a reference to the fact the motorcraft coils are chinese... the motorcraft/visteon coils are not the best option IMO. they are crap quality from the factory so i am not sure why everyone on here is recommending them... go to advance auto and get the bwd intermotor coils... they are made in USA, have a lifetime warranty and can be had for cheaper if you buy them online in seperate transactions using coupon codes to save ~40% off the list price. codes 'ES123', 'A123', 'A124' come to mind. but search slickdeals.net for the latest and greatest advance auto codes. theyre better in every way...
no one here has actually tried to diagnose a possible coil issue: how many miles are on them? are you experiencing misfire issues? your coils may not be bad, it may just be your leadfoot. coils do fail often tho and i would guess any misfiring on coils with >60k miles would be an almost surefire sign of at least 2 out of spec coils, if not the coil in every cylinder being out of spec. there are warranties for certain yrs for free replacement from lincoln. search for those, bc im pretty sure theyre posted somewhere here. definitely posted in TSB's for your yr.
warming up the car is not necessary. however, i warm it up until the needle moves off of the C for cold too and my mpg is not s_hit in the city. its closer to 20mpg with the warm-up included. i have a genII v6 though, for what its worth.
the fact it smells like gas when you are idling is a concern. could be a million different things... i recommend a trip to your dealer to diagnose.
you definitely need to swap the fuel filter, run a bottle of lucas (or techron or whatever you prefer) thru the system. shocked no one mentioned that. cleaning the MAF and throttle body (with teflon safe cleaner only) wont kill ya either.
lastly, someone made a reference to the fact the motorcraft coils are chinese... the motorcraft/visteon coils are not the best option IMO. they are crap quality from the factory so i am not sure why everyone on here is recommending them... go to advance auto and get the bwd intermotor coils... they are made in USA, have a lifetime warranty and can be had for cheaper if you buy them online in seperate transactions using coupon codes to save ~40% off the list price. codes 'ES123', 'A123', 'A124' come to mind. but search slickdeals.net for the latest and greatest advance auto codes. theyre better in every way...
RigsLS
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LincolnLS_2013
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When I'm at 40mph, the tach is steady at 1500 rpm. When accelerating from 0 to 40mph, it's usually 2500 rpm and max. 3000 rpm.
But probably not "lead foot" because the faster I accelerate and drive, the less gas it burns. So if anything, I'm driving too slow.
Probably issues where 3-6 of the coils are busted, and as a result, the engine uses too much gas but not enough oxygen. I bought vehicle 6 months ago at 49,000 miles so this will probably be the first time that the coils are replaced. But I'm up to 54,000 miles now and it's a 2002.
Man, I would kill for 20mpg. I would save at least $160/mo on gas.
Not sure when anyone mentioned smell. I don't smell gas, but the engine is making lots of odd sounds. Doesn't sound too smooth right now.
Anywhere I can find instructions on how to do that? Otherwise I'll have to get mechanic to do it. I'm a web developer, my mechanic mojo ain't that great just yet
Will take a look. Bought some cheap chinese ones for now. Will try to replace them myself. I'm expecting they'll fail quickly, but at least I'll know how to replace them for next time. Might try these [bwd intermotor coils] next.
LincolnLS_2013
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One more thing, oil says I need to replace it now. But I need to do another 125 miles to go to US to pick up my auto parts shipments. Wondering if I can change oil now, then replace the coils/plugs? Or, should I wait until I replace coils/plugs before changing the oil? Wondering if with the new coils/plugs it wouldn't be smart to run on old oil.
RigsLS
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It's not some clunking rattling metal grinding sound right ?
increases with the RPMs ?
You can run on that oil a little bit longer, not a huge deal.
The coils and Oil are not to mix with one another, so regardless of how old the oil is or how bad you need new coils, not too worry, neither one is going to make the other one any worse.
Hey, you should let me have a look and listen to that LS of yours.
I'm free on the weekend. I also have a contact for two mechanic in the west end. 40-50$hrly
I can also do coils myself. your plugs, need to be sure they are gapped correctly.
When I'm at 40mph, the tach is steady at 1500 rpm. When accelerating from 0 to 40mph, it's usually 2500 rpm and max. 3000 rpm.
But probably not "lead foot" because the faster I accelerate and drive, the less gas it burns. So if anything, I'm driving too slow.
Probably issues where 3-6 of the coils are busted, and as a result, the engine uses too much gas but not enough oxygen. I bought vehicle 6 months ago at 49,000 miles so this will probably be the first time that the coils are replaced. But I'm up to 54,000 miles now and it's a 2002.
Man, I would kill for 20mpg. I would save at least $160/mo on gas.
Not sure when anyone mentioned smell. I don't smell gas, but the engine is making lots of odd sounds. Doesn't sound too smooth right now.
Anywhere I can find instructions on how to do that? Otherwise I'll have to get mechanic to do it. I'm a web developer, my mechanic mojo ain't that great just yet
Will take a look. Bought some cheap chinese ones for now. Will try to replace them myself. I'm expecting they'll fail quickly, but at least I'll know how to replace them for next time. Might try these [bwd intermotor coils] next.
where i was going with the leadfoot thing, is that when you are driving in the city and click over to cruise you will sometimes see the RPM drop. that means you are pressing the pedal harder then you need to. sounds like you didnt try it yet. try it and be shocked.
my guess is that your coils are due bc of a combination of age and miles. theyre both 'close' to typical fail rates on the OEM coils.
another poster mentioned gas smell, i confused you two
lucas&techron are fuel treatment, just go to the parts store and buy a bottle for 2.99 and follow the directions on the package and dump it in the fuel tank and drive.
youre wasting your time with cheap chinese coils. as bad as oem's are, 'cheap chinese' are most likely significantly poorer quality. i wouldnt know from experience tho
LincolnLS_2013
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Squeeking sound. Sometimes squeeks when turning at an intersection. Squeek is combined with what sounds like dryness... doesn't sound too smooth. I'm not even too sure if the squeeking/dryness is always or only after standing for a while.
Oh man, missed it. I don't check back here often enough. But yeah, how about next weekend? Think it was raining last weekend too, so weather might be better soon.
Dude, if you could show me how to do the coils, that would be awesome... would save so much time. I know the plugs need to be gapped, but I'm probably going to have to pick up tools to do all this work. But yeah, I have a box full of parts, just picked up a bunch of stuff from shipment place in New York. Need to replace the oxygen sensors; hook up steering wheel audio controller for the stereo; resistor on the stereo amp connector; even have a hitch I bought from uhaul some 6 months ago, and hitch wiring, that I haven't hooked up yet lol. So I mean, some of this stuff I'm waiting for a warm day to do it; the rest I need a mechanic with a lift to get at things like the fuel filter and hitch.
At $50/hr would really help. Only mechanic I know is $90/$110hr, so I've been holding off for a bit.
I never see the check-engine light. Maybe when I turn the ignition key for a few seconds and it disappears, but I'm pretty sure that's normal.
LincolnLS_2013
Active LVC Member
Started experimenting with this. Interesting, will continue to see what happens. So do you drive on cruise all the time?
Yeah, that sounds about right.
Cool, will give that a shot. Thanks
Picked them up and they look pretty decent. I think they have potential. Will see what happens. I don't expect any performance issue, at worse a failure, but I would suspect the performance to be the same. I don't see how anyone could really screw up a rubber tube with a spring. And I really don't see how it could cost $50/ea, considering how it looks like $2 in materials.
oddball
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The complexity is the coil, not the boot. You can replace just the boot and spring for less than $5 ea.
Coils need precisely the correct wires, winding, core and epoxy to work for a usable period of time. The no-name brands tend to cut corners in one or more of those areas. It's a close copy, but not quite right.
You are most likely to experience coil failure sooner with those than the Motorcraft/Visteon coils.
Coils need precisely the correct wires, winding, core and epoxy to work for a usable period of time. The no-name brands tend to cut corners in one or more of those areas. It's a close copy, but not quite right.
You are most likely to experience coil failure sooner with those than the Motorcraft/Visteon coils.
jjcool00
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The worst part of all of this is that bad coils (while easily replaceable) can lead to other more serious issues. Don't cheap out on coils because if you drive around with bad coils it will lead to bad catalytic converters which on this car cost a second mortgage each. Spend the money now, so you don't run into that issue later.
RigsLS
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@LincolnLS_2013,
when you're ready, we (as in you and I) can do the coils and plugs. I wanna see what cheap coils look like anyhow. I don't mind giving you a hand with those, I've got everything here at my place to manage that job.
I could drive into town. meet up and have a listen to that and see what we can do.
I'm going back to work by mid May so preferably before then.
when you're ready, we (as in you and I) can do the coils and plugs. I wanna see what cheap coils look like anyhow. I don't mind giving you a hand with those, I've got everything here at my place to manage that job.
I could drive into town. meet up and have a listen to that and see what we can do.
I'm going back to work by mid May so preferably before then.
i try to cruise btwn 35 and 50 whenever possible. my foot is too heavy to keep the car from engaging the TCC in 5th. the cruise has no problem doing it, whereas i have to constantly remind myself. easier for me to just set it and forget it. its annoying in stop and go, but yeah i cruise a lot at those speeds. i do not have the SST so i actually am considering putting one of those in because it doesnt appear to be overly difficult and i think it will pay for itself in fuel savings.
the module that sits on top of the coil spring is most likely bad. when most people here say 'coils' they are talking about the whole assembly (boot, coil-spring, and module).
Realgadawg
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Just got my '01 Sport last week, and this Forum has saved me several heart attacks. Stumpie, I should have read your post about the three craft beers. Would have been much more enjoyable. Now if I can just figure out how to resize my pictures, I'll be on my way. Thanks again!!!