After installing rear shocks on my 95 TC, I have reached the conclusion that the engineers determined owners were NOT gonna do this themselves. Unless you have hands the size of a Barbie doll with fingers like an orangutan, how they expected one to get the top bolt on the drivers side shock is beyond me.
I read a couple posts wherein guys suggested one simply say "screw this" to wrenches and the like and grab their trusty Sawzall instead. After an hour with my wrenches, I surrendered and did so. GET THEE A 12' METAL BLADE AND CUT THE THING OFF! Save yourself some true aggravation. The shocks on my car were OEM and I can understand why. No one in their right mind (other than a guy getting paid by the hour) would want the PITA. For good measure, I cut the bottom one off too since a new one came with the shock and the original one was rusted solid.
One tip......Super Glue the top rubber, metal washer and nut together in a single assembly because there's no way on Earth you're gonna get the top part put together with the room allotted. And, when you saw that top nut off, mind the fuel lines. Cut through one of those and prepare to drop the tank to repair it. When installing the new shock, maneuver the glued-together stuff over the hole for the shock and twist the entire shock to get the nut set. A bit of bearing grease doesn't hurt here. To tighten it down, get the LONGEST open-end wrench you've got (mine was a 9/16th), hold the top nut and turn the shock. I say "open-end" because you won't get the wrench back off once the nut is fully secured.....not enough room.
In summary, it took me three hours for the driver side and an hour for the passenger side. Next time, should there be one, it'll take me much less time because I've already learned my lesson.......which is:
LINCOLN REAR SUSPENSION ENGINEERS HATE US!
I read a couple posts wherein guys suggested one simply say "screw this" to wrenches and the like and grab their trusty Sawzall instead. After an hour with my wrenches, I surrendered and did so. GET THEE A 12' METAL BLADE AND CUT THE THING OFF! Save yourself some true aggravation. The shocks on my car were OEM and I can understand why. No one in their right mind (other than a guy getting paid by the hour) would want the PITA. For good measure, I cut the bottom one off too since a new one came with the shock and the original one was rusted solid.
One tip......Super Glue the top rubber, metal washer and nut together in a single assembly because there's no way on Earth you're gonna get the top part put together with the room allotted. And, when you saw that top nut off, mind the fuel lines. Cut through one of those and prepare to drop the tank to repair it. When installing the new shock, maneuver the glued-together stuff over the hole for the shock and twist the entire shock to get the nut set. A bit of bearing grease doesn't hurt here. To tighten it down, get the LONGEST open-end wrench you've got (mine was a 9/16th), hold the top nut and turn the shock. I say "open-end" because you won't get the wrench back off once the nut is fully secured.....not enough room.
In summary, it took me three hours for the driver side and an hour for the passenger side. Next time, should there be one, it'll take me much less time because I've already learned my lesson.......which is:
LINCOLN REAR SUSPENSION ENGINEERS HATE US!
