LMS CHIP Problems?? Need help quick!

I've heard you can try to use a tire gauge on the shrader valve... it might get messy though.

Go try changing your fuel filter - if it's original that might be your problem.
 
OK I checked the fuel pressure, after cranking it up i got almost 30 at idle. This is after letting it sit for a day. I drove it around the block and brought it back and then I got around 27-28 at idle. Then while revving it up around 3 or 4 k It didn't go past 30. So is the fuel pump the culprit?
 
Rather than create another thread. I'm kinda in the same boat as you, minus the whole running like crap thing. I got my fuel pressure tester (it leaks a little) and it was at 30 psi pretty constant. I didn't get a chance to tape it to the windshield but I ran it from idle->redline and it dipped to 29psi at about 3k and after that it climbed to 35 max. I'm gonna replace my fuel pump sooner or later.
 
Also something I forgot to mention in the first post is, the check engine light has been on for a while now, I think it was a p171 some bank running lean?
I changed the drivers side O2 sensor but that didn't get rid of it.
So does this coincide with the fuel pump failure idea?
 
Ok I changed the fuel filter tonight and still have the same problem.
 
Just seems like once I go past half( a little less actually) throttle the engine is just choking ......
 
yea put a fuel pump in it... even if its not the lead cause of your difficulty its still a good thing to do since the stock ones crap out quickly. Then you'll know the engine is getting the fuel it needs and you can take it from there
 
Jeez after running it a little longer and checking the pressure it was in the low 20's. Is there anything else besides the fuel pump that could cause that?
 
fonzieguy said:
Jeez after running it a little longer and checking the pressure it was in the low 20's. Is there anything else besides the fuel pump that could cause that?
Click to expand...


First things first.. STOP driving the car in that condition.
IF your fuel pressure guage is accurate you are "very close" to "MELTING" something very expensive.

With that said...
how many miles are on the car?

AND... there is a very SLIM possilibility that you can fix this without replacing the fuel pump.
The ONLY thing that could do this would be the VCRM {variable control relay module)

it's easy to replace, it's located in front of your radiator, right next to your power steering cooler. {the thing with the fins on it)

the VCRM controls the high and low speed fuel pump, it just MIGHT be that your pump isn't going into "highspeed".

BUT.. if your car has 150,000 miles or more, or if it's withing 30K of 150,000 miles you can probably "bank" on it being the pump.. if it's not the VCRM.

Changing the pump aint all that bad.. when my first one died..it did it at the dragstrip.. and we changed the pump in the pits at the track, on the ground, in the grass with no lift.... so it's not an "end of the world" type job.

If it were me, I'd chunk a VCRM at it.. and if that didn't work.. I'd spend the 100 dollars and get the upgraded 255LPH pump, which is 200.00 cheaper than putting a "stock pump" in the car.
 
Jeffguy11 said:
yea put a fuel pump in it... even if its not the lead cause of your difficulty its still a good thing to do since the stock ones crap out quickly. Then you'll know the engine is getting the fuel it needs and you can take it from there
Click to expand...

great advice!
 
I would run as much gas out of the car as possible, without driving it.
there's no effective way to siphon the fuel out.

You really want to have "as little fuel" in the tank as possible, that makes it alot easier to wrestle with the tank.

The job is very straightforward, drop the exhaust, disconnect the fuel INLET lines and the fuel supply lines, paying special attention to the crossover hose at the back of the tank that goes OVER the driveshaft.

All in all, for a first timer.. it's a 2-3 hour job.
 
The pump is bad in my 96 I just aquired whats the part number for an upgraded pump from Walboro? Will a SVT focus pump be direct PnP for the stock sending unit?
 
I got my 255lhp pump from www.50resto.com for about $109.00
I got the pump for the 96-98 cobra and it was a direct bolt in...

I have no input on those other pumps listed above as I have no experience with them. Will they work? maybe.. dunno.. that isn't the pump I used..
 
I seem to remember from my Taurus SHO days, if you installed a pump that was rated higher than stock you would run slightly rich. Is this assumption correct?
 
Well since the stock PCM commands a WOT AF of 10 to 1 in the mark 8 already, I dont see how a pump that flows more will make the car "slightly rich".

Hell.. they are PIG RICH from the factory.....

That is how the C&L meter gets ANY gains, by "leaning out" the stock PIG RICH AF ratio.
 
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