Long Warm up time

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KennyKaraoke

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I mean it literally takes the entire 40 minute drive to work. Heat blows consistent with the engine temperature. Even when warm, I'm talking 170° at most. We've been averaging 20°-40°, but the car should still warm up quicker than that. There are no leaks, fluids all good, runs good besides an occasional misfire on cylinder 1, but will be replacing all the plugs/coils this weekend.
Is there something I can troubleshoot with the engine temp/heat while I'm at it. There are no codes and no messages.
 
I'm thinking weak thermostat. Install a new one and see if that's the problem. don-ohio :)^)
 
My bad, 2001 V8.
I was thinking T-stat myself, maybe stuck open. Don't tell me its located at the bottom of the engine accessible by removing the front passenger wheel (like my Envoy, what a PITA that was).
 
No, it's easy to get to and a normal thermostat. The catch is that the plastic thermostat housing will probably crack, as will the engine fill cap. The good news is that you can get those in metal from and aftermarket supplier for Jaguar. If your degas bottle hasn't been replaced in the last several years, you'll need that too.
Also, be sure to fill and bleed using the factory procedure: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/
 
Thanks for info and link joegr. Looks like weather in the 40's this weekend, so back into the garage it is.
 
since this last week or two ago was really the first time we've had real cold temps (relative for here anyways) and the past couple of years the Lincolns has stayed parked in the garage since it hasn't snowed yet this year in any amount of accumulation, I've still been driving the car... I've also been noticing that it has been taken a long time to warm up (10 min remote start cycle only gets the needle up to 25%) and it never really does reach full temp (dont drive it more than 30 mins each way) and the needle has been staying just a hair under dead center.

since I have replaced all of the cooling parts (minus the degas bottle) with in the last 20k miles, the first thing I do plan on trying is a new thermostat.
 
1LoudLS said:
......... and the needle has been staying just a hair under dead center...........
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Isn't that the normal position for the needle is just under the middle point? As I understand it the temp gauge is a dummy gauge and doesn't actually show the operating temp of the engine. It is just there to tell you when its overheating (any point over the middle line).
 
izzy said:
Isn't that the normal position for the needle is just under the middle point? As I understand it the temp gauge is a dummy gauge and doesn't actually show the operating temp of the engine. It is just there to tell you when its overheating (any point over the middle line).
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Normal for both of mine is exactly in the middle, and it gets there pretty quickly when driving. Just sitting still does take longer.
 
joegr said:
Normal for both of mine is exactly in the middle, and it gets there pretty quickly when driving. Just sitting still does take longer.
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I have the same experience with the timing of heating up. But we don't have crazy winter temps here in central FL. My gauge at operating temp/fully warmed always sits just shy of dead center. But maybe its the angle of viewing the needle. My eyes are above and not level with the needle. I'll check it out on the way home from work.
 
Just remove that pesky petcock screw from the radiator and watch your warmup times increase! J/k I couldn't resist :D
 
joegr said:
Normal for both of mine is exactly in the middle, and it gets there pretty quickly when driving. Just sitting still does take longer.
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both of mine have always (up until just recently) stayed dead center of the gauge.
 
I had extremely long warm up waits last year, turned out to be the DCCV was stuck nearly completely closed.

Does the auxiliary pump have anything to do with heater flow while in cruise speed?
 
milehighmikey said:
I had extremely long warm up waits last year, turned out to be the DCCV was stuck nearly completely closed.

Does the auxiliary pump have anything to do with heater flow while in cruise speed?
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A little, but not much unless it is clogged. In this case you are talking about a long warm up time for the cabin, not the engine. The OP's problem appears to be a long warm up time for the engine (which makes the cabin heater take longer).
 
Mikey,you've got the v6 with the high miles,right?How many valve covers and COPs did you have to replace to achieve that? Just curious,since I still have my 04 V6 and it needs those things.Thanks! don-ohio :)^)
 
My needle sits on the mark sometimes, sometimes it sits half a needle-width below center. I'm guessing given the wide range of temperature that says "put the needle in the middle" that it's just day-to-day variances in dash temp, alternator running/not running, battery draw, friction in the motor, and position of the moon.

I'm happy to have any sort of sense behind it after driving my Taurus. The temperature range is significantly offset upwards, mirroring the gas gauge (I guess you feel better when the gas needle points upward 75% of the time). But the needle sits at neither the gauge's halfway point nor horizontal. Then, my speedometer is offset. It goes up to 120mph, but starts at 10. However, the 10 is not at the same angle as 110. This places the 60mph "mid" mark slightly before vertical. You'd think maybe it's centered on 100km/h but no, that's slightly after vertical. Now, I'm not getting bent out of shape over this, but I swear it was done on purpose to mess with anyone who pays attention

2016-02-05 00.02.18.jpg

2016-02-05 00.02.18.jpg
 
These 2 LSes and my 05 Mustang are the ONLY Ford vehicles I've ever owned that have the temp needle riding in the middle.MOST of the older fords barely made it to maybe 2/5ths the way toward HOT.
On these,you were looking for a temp problem when they hit halfway,OR it was like idling in summertime with the AC on.don-ohio :)^)
 
LSFrank said:
My needle sits on the mark sometimes, sometimes it sits half a needle-width below center. I'm guessing given the wide range of temperature that says "put the needle in the middle" that it's just day-to-day variances in dash temp, alternator running/not running, battery draw, friction in the motor, and position of the moon.

I'm happy to have any sort of sense behind it after driving my Taurus. The temperature range is significantly offset upwards, mirroring the gas gauge (I guess you feel better when the gas needle points upward 75% of the time). But the needle sits at neither the gauge's halfway point nor horizontal. Then, my speedometer is offset. It goes up to 120mph, but starts at 10. However, the 10 is not at the same angle as 110. This places the 60mph "mid" mark slightly before vertical. You'd think maybe it's centered on 100km/h but no, that's slightly after vertical. Now, I'm not getting bent out of shape over this, but I swear it was done on purpose to mess with anyone who pays attention

View attachment 828475177
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Our Sable was the same way. It's probably to mess with people with OCD!!! Or should it be CDO?? :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
LS4me said:
Our Sable was the same way. It's probably to mess with people with OCD!!! Or should it be CDO?? :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Probably. Maybe it has something to do with the resting pin, the ~115mph governor, and space needed for the gear select display with column shifters sitting in the bottom of the speedo. But yeah, Gen 3 and 4 Taurus and Sable (96-06) all have the same dash layout. And doors. They're nearly the same car at the heart of it. The two gens are almost as close to each other as the LS' "gens"
 
My '04 Town Car never reaches the halfway mark, not even on really hot days. If the gauge were divided into 10 sections, I'd say the LTC gets to about 4.5.
 
That's the way I like it,All2kool. Plenty of needle travel to diagnose the mounting problem without overheating actually occurring. With the LS,I feel like a little needle travel would indicate a lot of heat.
My Ford aerostar van and F-250 have that kind of reading,like you mentioned. don-ohio :)^)
 
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don-ohio said:
That's the way I like it,All2kool. Plenty of needle travel to diagnose the mounting problem without overheating actually occurring. With the LS,I feel like a little needle travel would indicate a lot of heat.
My Ford aerostar van and F-250 have that kind of reading,like you mentioned. don-ohio :)^)
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From what Joe has said in many posts, the LS coolant gauge is not linear. The computer sets it to the middle and won't move it to the overheat range until it's already too late, supposedly to keep blue-hairs from worrying about the needle being a sixteenth of an inch warmer in August that it is in February. Something to think about, while you're running around with a disabled cooling system.
 
1st thing to think about, comparing the LS to any other ford car does absolutely no good, the car is different, the parts are different, and the computer is programmed different. how cars A, B, and C behave mean nothing in the LS world.



2nd, the car is already overheating if the needle starts to move above center.
 
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