lots of questions

[MachME]

I also posted this in the normal forum, delete if need be.

What is the widest wheel, tire combo we can fit in the rear with the fenders rolled? (this is when the top inside of the fender is made flat so there is no tire rub)

I want to send the rear wheels away to get widend and put some big sticky meets on. I know the cobra irs guys need to sometimes run a low profile IRS bolt to clear larger tire/wheel combos as well, is this needed?

Another question is what size stall are any of you performance guys running? Im thinking of bigger since these motors car rev, like a 4k stall? I really want this car to run.

Exhuast- What are good nice looking wide tips and how do i get them flush with the bumper cut outs? The stock tips hang low=look dumb.

Some other things
-can someone link me to a write up on j-mod
-also a link on how to lower the car via air bag sensor's
-with the auto, im thinking 430 gears, is there a need to upgrade to a larger tranny cooler and or a larger pan? Want to make sure everything stays cool on the interstate. Is so, what are you running?
-i will be adding a brace to the irs cover and putting better bushings in, i also want to do subframe connectors if possible like the mustang guys do. Is there anything else to upgrade, like the sway bars? I remember seeing pictures of a stock mark 8 doing auto cross, under a sharp turn the edge of the trunk the fender were actually contacting each other because so much flex in the car.
-is anything else a gimme to do, like lower t stat etc that helps these cars? How much does deleting the intake runner deals that open up help? With the cobra guys, i always hear its worth it and its not worth it.
-stock fuel will be fine for a stock car?
-what kinda numbers are you guys putting down on a dyno? list mods as well and if tuned or not.

Im hoping with the stall, gears, exhaust, tune, CAI, alum drive shaft and sticky tires it would hit at least mid-high 13's all day.


Thanks!

 

[Rich88LSC]

Another question is what size stall are any of you performance guys running? Im thinking of bigger since these motors car rev, like a 4k stall? I really want this car to run.

3500 with 4.10s. You need to decide what gears you will be running and what mods you are doing. Gears will affect how the car drives with a high stall TC. Hated my car with the stock 3.07s and 3500 stall. It's totally livable with the 4.10s. If your planning 4.30s 3800-4000 stall should be good.

-with the auto, im thinking 430 gears, is there a need to upgrade to a larger tranny cooler and or a larger pan? Want to make sure everything stays cool on the interstate. Is so, what are you running?

Forget the pan but yes definitely do a tranny cooler. Even a stock car will benifit with a high stall converter consider it mandatory. IIRC I'm running a B&M. Get the stacked plate design and bigger is better.

How much does deleting the intake runner deals that open up help? With the cobra guys, i always hear its worth it and its not worth it.

On a stock Mark not worth it. With gears/stall still probably not worth it but at least it shouldn't slow you down. With a ported intake/cams etc to extend the rpm range they are worth a few HP. Still not a huge mod but free if you make deletes yourself.

Im hoping with the stall, gears, exhaust, tune, CAI, alum drive shaft and sticky tires it would hit at least mid-high 13's all day.

Sean runs high 13s with 3.73s, stall, tune and I think just mufflers on stock exhaust, IMRC deletes. With more gear and stall and a couple other mods you should be in that ball park.

 

[driller]

What is the widest wheel, tire combo we can fit in the rear with the fenders rolled? (this is when the top inside of the fender is made flat so there is no tire rub)

I want to send the rear wheels away to get widend and put some big sticky meets on. I know the cobra irs guys need to sometimes run a low profile IRS bolt to clear larger tire/wheel combos as well, is this needed?

This is an opinion and not an answer to your question...

You do not need big sticky meats... I run a 26x9.50 Hoosier QT Pros and have little to no traction issues.

Another question is what size stall are any of you performance guys running? Im thinking of bigger since these motors car rev, like a 4k stall? I really want this car to run.

I have a 3500 stall on the '96 and a 3800 stall on the '93. 4K would not be out of the question.

Some other things
-can someone link me to a write up on j-mod

Look on tccoa.com's tech articles.

-also a link on how to lower the car via air bag sensor's

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/lincoln-mark-viii/Sensor-Lowering/index.htm

-with the auto, im thinking 430 gears, is there a need to upgrade to a larger tranny cooler and or a larger pan? Want to make sure everything stays cool on the interstate. Is so, what are you running?

A larger cooler is a must and a larger pan would help. I have the 40K cooler bypassing the radiator and a larger pan. Tranny temps are always less than 200 degrees even in the worst conditions.

-i will be adding a brace to the irs cover and putting better bushings in, i also want to do subframe connectors if possible like the mustang guys do. Is there anything else to upgrade, like the sway bars? I remember seeing pictures of a stock mark 8 doing auto cross, under a sharp turn the edge of the trunk the fender were actually contacting each other because so much flex in the car.

There are a variety of braces and stiffening you can do. Sub frame braces would need to be custom made. There are pinion braces, rear lower control arm braces, cover braces or HD covers with stud girdles and shock tower braces for the rear. There are also lower engine cradle braces and front suspension support braces for the front. And we haven't even mentioned bushings.

I have a bigger sway bar in the rear and the result was night and day.

-is anything else a gimme to do, like lower t stat etc that helps these cars? How much does deleting the intake runner deals that open up help? With the cobra guys, i always hear its worth it and its not worth it.

Most recommend a 180 degree T-stat, while others (including me) run a 165 degree T-stat. IMRC deletes are usually best left to SC applications. Other considerations would be colder plugs, Cobra intake, an underdrive crank pulley, EGR delete and electric water pump.

-stock fuel will be fine for a stock car?

Stock fuel should be premium 93 octane. If not your knock sensors will pull timing and performance will suffer.

-what kinda numbers are you guys putting down on a dyno? list mods as well and if tuned or not.

See my home page.

Im hoping with the stall, gears, exhaust, tune, CAI, alum drive shaft and sticky tires it would hit at least mid-high 13's all day.

It takes more than most think, but it is doable.

Mark VIII 1/4 or 1/8 mile Trophy Case

 

[MachME]

Thanks for the responses and time guys.

2nd poster, i see what your talking about. Im just going to be running a nitto drag radial. The width is just for more contact patch and looks. Looking at a newer mustang with a 10.5 inch rear wheel and 315 tires is just mean. Do you know the exact stock specs of offset, backspacing etc?

If i cant widen them enough to make a difference, i will at least run a spacer to make the tire flush with the fender. Those wheels are way to tucked in. Do you have any rub issues? Those luanch pics are sick, love the irs squat.

As far as bracing, what kinda rear sway bar did you upgrade too? An upgrade rear and front sway bar wouldnt be out of the question. As far as subframes goes, that sucks noone makes them. I put a companies on my mustang and it is so so much better. You can acutally lift three tires off the ground just jacking up on corner.

The irs brace i plan on running is made by billetflow, its for the cobra's but i dont see why it wouldnt work since that irs came fromt he mark.

for the drive shaft, is it better to get a 93, or get one through a company or does it not matter?

I havent looked this up yet, but is there any easy weight savings to do? Just glancing under the rear of the car, there is a tow hitch to remove, some black box that is on the gas tank that appears to have no purpose and the doors weigh a ton, the heaviest doors i have ever felt. Is there a bunch of sound dead inside them to take out or is all that weight the motors, glass etc?

And what i ment about stock fuel was the pump/injectors. I see lots of guys with upgraded fuel pump and injectors as mods. I cant figure out why when still running stock n/a would need this, so i thought something may be up.

Why run ruch a low t stat? And colder plugs? why? Forced induction (incluiding nitrous) is not used so i dont see a reason for that. Did you also upgrade the coil wires?

What about brake upgrades?....Kinda found out the only real thing to do is hub swap and do cobra calipers and some guy makes a relocation bracket to run sobra rotors on the stock rear calipers.....or to keep stock wheels run mustang GT calipers with a smaller rotor, but i know from experience the gt brakes suck and with the weight of the mark would be worse. Those options suck, i emailed wilwood

what year hubs are the talking about? or would all 96-04 cobras, 03/04 mach 1, hubs/rotors work?


Finally, long tubes through electric cut outs, a cai, chip, and electric water pump are the only things adding power, those numbers aren't bad through an auto i guess, i was expecting more. i was planning on keeping all stock exahust with exception of high flow cats and putting electic cut outs right after those so i can keep quite for everyday normal use....and save money. What kinda dyno was it ran on, do you know? Dynojet? mustang dyno? something else?

 

[driller]

Stock wheels are 16x7 with a 39mm offset. I plan on swapping to an 18x9 with a 40mm offset. You can get a staggered wheel setup with wider rears to work depending upon the suspension setup and if you wish to roll the fenders. Searching the forums, you will find many combinations that have been done successfully.

The rear swaybar most use is a 1-1/4" Addco sway bar. They are available for the Mark VIII in 1-1/8", 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" for the rear and 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" for the front. I have the 1-1/8" Addco rear and stock front.

The '93 one piece driveshafts vs the aftermarket ones are a subject of differing opinions. A good balanced '93 shaft with new universal joints will work as well as an aftermarket in most applications.

Weight savings is a matter of personal preference, I prefer to maintain the stock amenities and not concern myself with such possible gains.

Upgrading the fuel pump is usually a result of a failure of the stock pump in most cases. In doing so, a 190 lph or 255 lph is usually the pump of choice. I went with a 255 lph unit to allow any future mods I may consider. As far as the injectors, stock injectors are 24# which is enough for almost any N/A use.

The lower T-stat allows for lower engine temps at the track for better ETs. The colder plugs allow for more timing to be added without the knock sensors pulling back. Stock ignition wires/coils would work for most people. I have upgraded to Performance Distributors wires/coils for personal preference.

Upgrading to the Cobra brake setup is reasonable and economical enough with a tremendous improvement in braking performance. A hub swap is not necessary but bigger wheels are. This article will tell you all the details you need.

As far as the exhaust is concerned, I personally do not believe the stock exhaust manifolds and cats allow the car to perform to it's fullest potential.

The dyno numbers were from a DynoJet tuning session a while back before some of the most recent mods. The numbers are what I consider to be 'non-controversial'. I've had higher numbers from other dynos but for whatever reasons there were anomalies that could be interpreted to skew the results. The numbers that matter most to me are what the car does at the track anyways.

 

[brentalan]

Wow, this is quite an informativie thread! Thanks Driller.

 

[driller]

... Im just going to be running a nitto drag radial.

I forgot to comment on this.

I used to run Nitto DRs. They were the worst tire for the street as far as I'm concerned because they were impossible to keep in balance after burnouts at the track. Now maybe because the Mark VIII is so sensitive to NVH issues, but after a while they really became annoying. Besides, after the addition of the stall converter, they became totally unpredictable in the traction department. Sometimes they would hook, sometimes not.

I got much better results later when I started running Mickey Thompsons ET Street Radials. I only use them for the street or certain "DOT tire" events. But even after many burnouts, the ride on the highway is still good. They hook reasonably well but they are dependent upon track conditions. The best results at the track truly require a dedicated set of track tires.

 

[Rich88LSC]

Upgrading the fuel pump is usually a result of a failure of the stock pump in most cases. In doing so, a 190 lph or 255 lph is usually the pump of choice. I went with a 255 lph unit to allow any future mods I may consider. As far as the injectors, stock injectors are 24# which is enough for almost any N/A use.

Since the OP didn't say what year his Mark was I thought I'd point out that if it's a Gen2 he can use the SVT Focus pump.

And since he brought it up your running an electric water pump right JP? What do you think of it and how long have you been running it? I'm wondering if it's worth the $$$ and if they will last.

 

[driller]

Since the OP didn't say what year his Mark was I thought I'd point out that if it's a Gen2 he can use the SVT Focus pump.

Good point.

And since he brought it up your running an electric water pump right JP? What do you think of it and how long have you been running it? I'm wondering if it's worth the $$$ and if they will last.

Yes I have the Meziere electric pump. I've had it on the '93 since the summer of '05. Unfortunately, I have no definitive track times pre and post with just the water pump but I do believe it definitely freed up a little HP in the mid to upper rpms.

The pump itself has proven dependable but I did have one issue with the relay socket for it. It proved to be a quick fix though. When I threw a belt on the highway once, the electric water pump did allow me to get to the next exit without the threat of overheating.

 

[MachME]

Stock wheels are 16x7 with a 39mm offset. I plan on swapping to an 18x9 with a 40mm offset. You can get a staggered wheel setup with wider rears to work depending upon the suspension setup and if you wish to roll the fenders. Searching the forums, you will find many combinations that have been done successfully.

I assume by suspension set up you mean the ride height? it would be awesome to get 17 X 10 or 18X10 in the rear, possible? Fender rolling will be easy, i have access to the nice eastwood one that bolts on and applys even pressure.

The rear swaybar most use is a 1-1/4" Addco sway bar. They are available for the Mark VIII in 1-1/8", 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" for the rear and 1-1/4" and 1-3/8" for the front. I have the 1-1/8" Addco rear and stock front.

Sweet, ill look it up, i also want the car to have ok handling, for what it is (air ride, lux car is what i mean)

The '93 one piece driveshafts vs the aftermarket ones are a subject of differing opinions. A good balanced '93 shaft with new universal joints will work as well as an aftermarket in most applications.

I beleive i read on your page you have an after market one, how much did it run ya?

Weight savings is a matter of personal preference, I prefer to maintain the stock amenities and not concern myself with such possible gains.

I am with you on that, its a good laugh to see gutted out hondas. I just cant believe the door. Just crious whats in there. I would sacrfice some sounds deadner in there, also would consider a rear seat delete if i can make it look clean. The seats too, but really nice "race" seats cost an arm and a leg.

Upgrading the fuel pump is usually a result of a failure of the stock pump in most cases. In doing so, a 190 lph or 255 lph is usually the pump of choice. I went with a 255 lph unit to allow any future mods I may consider. As far as the injectors, stock injectors are 24# which is enough for almost any N/A use.

So how common is it for the pump to go out? I wouldnt want to get stranded somewhere. Mine is a 97 with 65k and so far no trouble yet. Is there any other common failures, water pump etc? If its pretty much ganna fail (the fuel pump) that might be something i consider just upgrading to be safe.

The lower T-stat allows for lower engine temps at the track for better ETs. The colder plugs allow for more timing to be added without the knock sensors pulling back. Stock ignition wires/coils would work for most people. I have upgraded to Performance Distributors wires/coils for personal preference.

Was unaware these cars had knock sensors and i was just thinking a 165 is too low. What temp did your tuner put the fan to turn on at?

Upgrading to the Cobra brake setup is reasonable and economical enough with a tremendous improvement in braking performance. A hub swap is not necessary but bigger wheels are. This article will tell you all the details you need.

Thanks for the article. It says any 96+ mustang hub can work. I would want to run mustang hubs so i can get wheels then. The car needs new brakes anyways, so some cobra/mach/bullit calipers up front with some nice cross drilled rotos all around will be nice, ill have to get in contact with that guy for a relocation bracket on the rear.

As far as the exhaust is concerned, I personally do not believe the stock exhaust manifolds and cats allow the car to perform to it's fullest potential.

Hmm, the mod motor doesnt pick up enough power for the price and time long tubes cost, unless running a blower. How hard is it to put long tubes on these cars? Mustangs are a bitch, drop the whole k member is the easiest way to go, to much work...... Like i said, high flow cats with cut outs. Then i can drive everywhere with a stock quite exhaust, then when i want to raise hell, open em up

The dyno numbers were from a DynoJet tuning session a while back before some of the most recent mods. The numbers are what I consider to be 'non-controversial'. I've had higher numbers from other dynos but for whatever reasons there were anomalies that could be interpreted to skew the results. The numbers that matter most to me are what the car does at the track anyways.

What kinda other dyno? Dyno jets read higher then a mustang dyno (which is load bearing) the only other dyno i know of it the one where you pull off the wheels and bolt on which reads the highest. On my 2v mustang, i put down 252/275 with just exhuast, cai and tuned on 87 through a 5 speed, dont know on 91. I know these b headed 32v's arent as great at the c head, but i just expected more. Your right about the track, thats all that matters. Im suprised to see your time and mph. I would expect more mph with that et.

I know there was a question i wanted to post up but i just cant think of what it was...ill get back it to it.

Anther thing i thought of, is do you or anyone on here run the head cooling mod?

O and about the tires, thats crazy. Usally everyone agrees nittos are great on the street but act like a street tires at the track, unless you heat them up really well. I would also think the would hook great for you given the amount of sidewall you are running and the auto, even if its not that wide. For example, in 17's they have 275 with a 40 side wall and 315s with a 35 side wall. Also i prefer nittos because they last the longest for everyday driving.

 

[driller]

By suspension setup, I do indeed refer to the ride height. Running at stock height you likely will not need to roll the fenders as you would with a lowered suspension height.

---

You supposedly can upsize the rear sway bar by one step over the front sway bar without extreme adverse effects on vehicle handling.

---

Yes, I have the aftermarket driveshaft (now in both the '93 and the '96). They are pricey, around $450 if I recall correctly. Both are the original MMx driveshaft tubing which is no longer available.

---

The doors on the Mark VIII are mainly heavy because they are so BIG. The doors on my 4 door Town Car seem tiny compared to the Mark VIII. But still, they are steel, have a side impact beam for improved passenger safety and are loaded with all the amenities of a luxury car including sound deadening material.

---

The fuel pump life varies with use and age. Any in-tank pump will last a long time if the tank is not allowed to go below 1/4 tank. Daily drivers that run to the last drop each tank of fuel will suffer a much shorter life span.

As far as other high failure rate items, the only other significant accessory item I can readily think of is the alternator. Most everything else will last a long, long time assuming no abuse and proper maintenance.

---

The 165 T-stat may be too low for a daily driver but do not be fooled, it only opens at 165 degrees and does not necessarily mean the car will operate at that temperature. My normal engine temps are not much different from stock after the car has warmed up. With a performance tune the car will actually run hotter. Add a high stall converter and even more heat is generated. That's the biggest reason I added a huge 40K GVWR tranny cooler and bypassed the radiator with the transmission cooler lines - to remove the added heat load from the transmission on the radiator.

The cooling fan is set to come on sooner. If I recall correctly, it's set for 190* vs the stock 215* setting.

---

I still stand by my comment on the exhaust. Long tubes would need to be custom made and otherwise the Kooks 3/4 lengths are the next option. You could even use '04 Cobra manifolds. Almost anything would beat the logs these cars have on the exhaust. Plus the stock cats and actual 'dual-wall' piping used in the OEM exhaust through the cats to the resonator is a huge restriction on the exhaust flow. The mufflers add almost nothing for flow restriction.

Typically the K-member is lowered to add headers on these cars though I have heard the rumor it was possible without doing so. Even if true, I would not wish the job upon my worst enemy.

---

Dynos? Have you been on one of these?
'93 Mark VIII DynoRun
:lol:


I don't have the head cooling mod or can think of anyone that does.

 

[MachME]

By suspension setup, I do indeed refer to the ride height. Running at stock height you likely will not need to roll the fenders as you would with a lowered suspension height.

---

You supposedly can upsize the rear sway bar by one step over the front sway bar without extreme adverse effects on vehicle handling.

---

Yes, I have the aftermarket driveshaft (now in both the '93 and the '96). They are pricey, around $450 if I recall correctly. Both are the original MMx driveshaft tubing which is no longer available.

---

The doors on the Mark VIII are mainly heavy because they are so BIG. The doors on my 4 door Town Car seem tiny compared to the Mark VIII. But still, they are steel, have a side impact beam for improved passenger safety and are loaded with all the amenities of a luxury car including sound deadening material.

haha, you have a town car too? what year? rocking a 94 here. I know, those doors are really long but still it just seems odd, idk maybe im crazy

---

The fuel pump life varies with use and age. Any in-tank pump will last a long time if the tank is not allowed to go below 1/4 tank. Daily drivers that run to the last drop each tank of fuel will suffer a much shorter life span.

As far as other high failure rate items, the only other significant accessory item I can readily think of is the alternator. Most everything else will last a long, long time assuming no abuse and proper maintenance.

It sounds like from you and the other guy it would go out. I admit, i run the tank past 1/4. I think its ok as long as you dont accel hard, never go wot.

At least on these 4v's, the alt is right on top like the 2v's. On the machs on some cobras, you have to take the battery tray and crap out. O and while on this subject, what the hell are those two things holding the intech cover over the alt down? Does it unscrew from the bottom of it?

---

The 165 T-stat may be too low for a daily driver but do not be fooled, it only opens at 165 degrees and does not necessarily mean the car will operate at that temperature. My normal engine temps are not much different from stock after the car has warmed up. With a performance tune the car will actually run hotter. Add a high stall converter and even more heat is generated. That's the biggest reason I added a huge 40K GVWR tranny cooler and bypassed the radiator with the transmission cooler lines - to remove the added heat load from the transmission on the radiator.

The cooling fan is set to come on sooner. If I recall correctly, it's set for 190* vs the stock 215* setting.

Yes, i will bypass that too. What does GVWR stand for, i was just looking at b and m when i do it. Speaking of tranny, started reading more about the j mod, it says to replace the 1-2 accumulator no matter what, check for wear and sand inside if needed and just go ahead and do the 3-4 too. Says all stock 4r70w have alum accumulators that cause excess wear or something, will see how mine is whenever i do it. More work then i thought.

---

I still stand by my comment on the exhaust. Long tubes would need to be custom made and otherwise the Kooks 3/4 lengths are the next option. You could even use '04 Cobra manifolds. Almost anything would beat the logs these cars have on the exhaust. Plus the stock cats and actual 'dual-wall' piping used in the OEM exhaust through the cats to the resonator is a huge restriction on the exhaust flow. The mufflers add almost nothing for flow restriction.

Typically the K-member is lowered to add headers on these cars though I have heard the rumor it was possible without doing so. Even if true, I would not wish the job upon my worst enemy.

Thats nice to know that those kooks will bolt up without any issues. Kooks are nice pieces, and they make sure you know that in the price :lol:

I havent looked at the stock manifolds, but i cant imagine the flow worse then the ones on the mustangs, they are all logs.

---

Dynos? Have you been on one of these?
'93 Mark VIII DynoRun
:lol:


I don't have the head cooling mod or can think of anyone that does.

I cant believe you dynoed like that, thats begging for oil starvation. What was the exhuast set up there, cut outs open?

Do you have any videos of racing? i want to see that launch in actually time.

Some other things, do you have the email for "Ed" that makes the rear brake bracket
-what is the deal that is RIGHT in front of the crank pulley? ...confused why they put that right there too, it looks like it hits at first glance.

O and the fuel filter is behind the passenger fender well? why they did that.

 

[topher5150]

I cant believe you dynoed like that, thats begging for oil starvation. What was the exhuast set up there, cut outs open?

Do you have any videos of racing? i want to see that launch in actually time.

Some other things, do you have the email for "Ed" that makes the rear brake bracket
-what is the deal that is RIGHT in front of the crank pulley? ...confused why they put that right there too, it looks like it hits at first glance.

O and the fuel filter is behind the passenger fender well? why they did that.

that doodad in front of the crank pulley pumps air in to the cats

 

[driller]

I cant believe you dynoed like that, thats begging for oil starvation. What was the exhuast set up there, cut outs open?

Do you have any videos of racing? i want to see that launch in actually time.

Some other things, do you have the email for "Ed" that makes the rear brake bracket
-what is the deal that is RIGHT in front of the crank pulley? ...confused why they put that right there too, it looks like it hits at first glance.

O and the fuel filter is behind the passenger fender well? why they did that.

The cutouts were open on that dyno run. I had no fear of oil starvation, the low oil light will come on if the grade is too steep and besides, I run about 1/2 quart extra oil.

My photo albums have quite a few vids. Also look for mark8driller on youtube.

A couple others are on OneTrueMedia.

You can find "Ed" on tccoa.com.

I've seen worse places for fuel filters.

 

[MachME]

that doodad in front of the crank pulley pumps air in to the cats

So it is just to help emissions then and can be ditched?

The cutouts were open on that dyno run. I had no fear of oil starvation, the low oil light will come on if the grade is too steep and besides, I run about 1/2 quart extra oil.

My photo albums have quite a few vids. Also look for mark8driller on youtube.

A couple others are on OneTrueMedia.

You can find "Ed" on tccoa.com.

I've seen worse places for fuel filters.

I searched on youtube, sweet vids. Love the dumb comments on there like normal. "you got people on here thinking these cars can beat late model mustangs" :lol: ...it is a late model mustang, just with the luxury upgrade.

O and for t stat, i dont know if it applys to the marks, but the mustang guys found out that most aftermarket t stats didnt have the correct size block off plate or even had one at all, so they were drilling a coupel small holes in the stock 180 stat to make it open faster, as it was found out that it wasnt fully opening to like 210+.

Anyways, now this guy is making correct ones (170degree) for the 4v mustangs out of two stats and im going to see if he has em for the mark....can be found here.

http://www.reischeperformance.com/


its more of a big deal for the 03/04 cobra guys since they produce so much heat with the blower.


Thumbs up for running 1/2 quart extra oil, always a good idea for any mod motor that will see abuse.

As far as head cooling, i did some research and found out the b heads dont really need it but if you want to do it, you have to delete the IMRC's.

http://www.evenflowcooling.com/96-98cobra.html

One last thing, did i read this right, the model yeards 97+ do not need the accumulator upgrade?

 

[Rich88LSC]

One last thing, did i read this right, the model yeards 97+ do not need the accumulator upgrade?

Some 97s had the upgraded accumulator but most didn't.

 

[mecaple1]

38 offset,roll the fenders and you can use 275 tires. 50 offset roll the fenders will take 295. i have done the 38 with 275/40/19s no problem. i've got the 50 offset wheels on now with 275s measured everything shouldnt be a problem going to 295s. be sure and use plastic ties to move the e brake line out of the way or it will rub tire,i couldn't figure a way to reroute. if you roll the fenders be sure to use heat gun to avoid cracking paint,worked fine for me. note on the front with 35 offset 255 was all it would take. if you use 38 will have to grind some i bought 47 offset for front without thinking it thru and had to use a 12mm spacer and change studs. that cost a week and $250.

 

[MachME]

Thanks for the wheel info. How tall is the tire on that 19? Thats a big rim.

rich 88, can the dealer tell you if it is updated (the accumlators) by running the vin or is there no way to tell until you pull it apart?

 

[Rich88LSC]

IFAIK no way to tell without opening up the trans.

 

[mecaple1]

275/40/19 27.7 tall

 

[mecaple1]

295/30/19 26"

 

[MercuryLs]

315/45R16 Mickeys on 16x8 rims. (I wish they were 16x10)