mikeobish
LVC Member
sometime times mostly when I start to drive when I break I hear a loud squeal then after that it'll come and go. What should I do?
loud squeal
- Thread starter mikeobish
- Start date
n8bachelor
Dedicated LVC Member
Look under the hood....
No seriously.... give us some more info. Does it happen when driving or only when braking? What year car do you have, and how many miles? Have you changed the brakes lately? Did you just buy the car? help us help you man.
No seriously.... give us some more info. Does it happen when driving or only when braking? What year car do you have, and how many miles? Have you changed the brakes lately? Did you just buy the car? help us help you man.
mikeobish
LVC Member
sorry bout that as you can see I don't post often, ok 02 LS8 65k I bought the car in april new pads on front and back as well as new rotors on front and new calipers on front (all covered under warranty) I know it's coming from the front drivers side but I don't know what it is.
And it only happens when I break and it's a short but loud squeal.
And it only happens when I break and it's a short but loud squeal.
FastNsmoothLS
Active LVC Member
any grinding with that that you can hear/fell?
mikeobish
LVC Member
no sir, and i'm not hard on the car at all, and I have no problem breaking I just hate the noise a car that looks like this shouldn't make any noise when I break you know what I'm saying.
PatrickSimmons
Photographer
Are they ceramic brake pads?
FastNsmoothLS
Active LVC Member
^ +1 ??
mikeobish
LVC Member
not sure, do you guys think that could be it? and if they are what then?
PatrickSimmons
Photographer
ceramics seem to do that from time to time from my experience.
mikeobish
LVC Member
and that's what happens, time to time is there anything that I can do?
PatrickSimmons
Photographer
Sometimes using that brake lube helps. I'm no mechanic so I can really tell you where exactly you need to put it but I'm sure someone will chime in. It's basically the nature of the materials used.
eastcoastLS
Dedicated LVC Member
sounds like brakes squealing. i know the dealership guarantees absolutely no brake noise. if you had them do it just take it back..
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
I believe ceramic pads are factory spec. At least that is what comes up when the parts shop(Pepboys and Kragen) pulls up pads on the computer.
Aftermarket ceramic pads are hit and miss. Some don't squeel, others sound like a freight train screeching to a halt.
Brake caliper lubricant sometimes works, depends on whether the pads re just noisy or where the vibration is coming from.
Usually brake pads squeel because they are either vibrating on the backing or because the pad itself is noisy, least in my opinion.
I have used the blue goo pad glue that is put on the back of the pads to kind of glue the pad to the piston or backing plate. Supposedly this keeps the pad from vibrating against the piston and making a squeel. But my experience is usually the goo burns off after a few hundred or thousand miles, could be my driving style heating the pads more than granny does. After doing this for something like 20 years I am beginning to think blue goo is a waste of effort.
The other possible cause is that sometimes the caliper is not sliding back and forth smoothly which causes the pad to vibrate against the rotor. This requires you to grease the caliper sliding points and maybe the back of the pad with some high temperature brake grease. This actually should be done periodically, not just when you change pads. Supposedly we should grease the sliding points every oil change or two. Most of us don't know this and never do it.
My experience at least with 2 sets of pads on the LS is that the blue goo and caliper grease on the back of the pads only works a day or two. In my case switching brand of pad made a WORLD of difference. I had some Pepboys performance pads and they sqeeled like heck, I greased, blue gooed and cleaned the backing, sanded the pads etc, no help. Replaced them with Raybestos and not a peep in several thousand miles. This has happened for me on 2 or three others cars I owned. I am convinced, will buy Raybestos if I can get them from now on.
So as a start , clean the calipers and back of the pad and the piston surface. No rust, grease or burned on blue goo. Use high temp brake grease to grease the back of the pad(lightly, don't gob it on) and the sliding points of the caliper. The sliding points are the smooth metal machined surfaces where it is obvious the caliper slides back and forth. Also grease the retaining bolts but only the smooth sliding surface, not the threads. If your pads are fine, this should fix it. If they still squeel, then either the pads are noisy or something else in the caliper assembly may be cocking the pads a bit out of line.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Aftermarket ceramic pads are hit and miss. Some don't squeel, others sound like a freight train screeching to a halt.
Brake caliper lubricant sometimes works, depends on whether the pads re just noisy or where the vibration is coming from.
Usually brake pads squeel because they are either vibrating on the backing or because the pad itself is noisy, least in my opinion.
I have used the blue goo pad glue that is put on the back of the pads to kind of glue the pad to the piston or backing plate. Supposedly this keeps the pad from vibrating against the piston and making a squeel. But my experience is usually the goo burns off after a few hundred or thousand miles, could be my driving style heating the pads more than granny does. After doing this for something like 20 years I am beginning to think blue goo is a waste of effort.
The other possible cause is that sometimes the caliper is not sliding back and forth smoothly which causes the pad to vibrate against the rotor. This requires you to grease the caliper sliding points and maybe the back of the pad with some high temperature brake grease. This actually should be done periodically, not just when you change pads. Supposedly we should grease the sliding points every oil change or two. Most of us don't know this and never do it.
My experience at least with 2 sets of pads on the LS is that the blue goo and caliper grease on the back of the pads only works a day or two. In my case switching brand of pad made a WORLD of difference. I had some Pepboys performance pads and they sqeeled like heck, I greased, blue gooed and cleaned the backing, sanded the pads etc, no help. Replaced them with Raybestos and not a peep in several thousand miles. This has happened for me on 2 or three others cars I owned. I am convinced, will buy Raybestos if I can get them from now on.
So as a start , clean the calipers and back of the pad and the piston surface. No rust, grease or burned on blue goo. Use high temp brake grease to grease the back of the pad(lightly, don't gob it on) and the sliding points of the caliper. The sliding points are the smooth metal machined surfaces where it is obvious the caliper slides back and forth. Also grease the retaining bolts but only the smooth sliding surface, not the threads. If your pads are fine, this should fix it. If they still squeel, then either the pads are noisy or something else in the caliper assembly may be cocking the pads a bit out of line.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Jim Henderson
Dedicated LVC Member
An additional comment on blue goo.
Now that I think about it and from looking at the backs of many pads, I think blue goo is really a bandaid meant to hide a problem rather than fix it.
The reason I say this is that all the pads I have bought lately had a slippery backing or shim on them. Some pad kits also include a tube of silicone lubricant. So I believe the pads are meant to slide effortlessly on the piston and or the caliper surfaces.
The pads on the Raybestos pads that I now love, have a VERY slick shim/backing. It almost looks and feels like a finely polished teflon coated metal shim.
So I am guessing from observation and experience that the pads are meant to be slippery on the backside, not glued in place with blue goo, which in my experience cooks and burns loose after a few hundred miles or so.
Just an observation,
Jim Henderson
Now that I think about it and from looking at the backs of many pads, I think blue goo is really a bandaid meant to hide a problem rather than fix it.
The reason I say this is that all the pads I have bought lately had a slippery backing or shim on them. Some pad kits also include a tube of silicone lubricant. So I believe the pads are meant to slide effortlessly on the piston and or the caliper surfaces.
The pads on the Raybestos pads that I now love, have a VERY slick shim/backing. It almost looks and feels like a finely polished teflon coated metal shim.
So I am guessing from observation and experience that the pads are meant to be slippery on the backside, not glued in place with blue goo, which in my experience cooks and burns loose after a few hundred miles or so.
Just an observation,
Jim Henderson
tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
New pads
The new pads need to be burned in. Here is what I do with new ceramic pads. Go driving on open road with little traffic. At 60 hit the brakes hard but not to lock them or start antilock brake system. You just want to heat them up. Come to a stop. Then do it again and again at different speeds to heat the new pads and burn them in. You won't hurt them, you just want the top layer off the pads. Hope this helps.
The new pads need to be burned in. Here is what I do with new ceramic pads. Go driving on open road with little traffic. At 60 hit the brakes hard but not to lock them or start antilock brake system. You just want to heat them up. Come to a stop. Then do it again and again at different speeds to heat the new pads and burn them in. You won't hurt them, you just want the top layer off the pads. Hope this helps.