Lowering my LS looking for opinions

[Mac3150]

I just picked up my Silver 01 LS, V8 with sport package and 22,000 miles last night and I love the car.

I'm already thinking of a body-kit, wheels and lowering the car.

My question is for those of you who have used the Eibach lowering kit, did you stick with 17" wheels or go +1 to 18"?

As we all know customizing a car gets expensive and sticking with 17's means less expensive rims and tires.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[GWL]

I just picked up my Silver 01 LS, V8 with sport package and 22,000 miles last night and I love the car.

I'm already thinking of a body-kit, wheels and lowering the car.

My question is for those of you who have used the Eibach lowering kit, did you stick with 17" wheels or go +1 to 18"?

As we all know customizing a car gets expensive and sticking with 17's means less expensive rims and tires.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I used Eibach springs that lowered my 04 LSE 1.25". I too would like to go to 18" wheels, but have not taken the plunge yet as the 17" wheels do not look too bad. The S type R Jag uses 18" wheels and I think that as long as you watch the offset closely, 18" wheels will work with the Eibach springs.

 

[mineralgsvt]

Nice ride GWL.. just curious.. how is the ride since you lowered it? Did you change out the shocks/struts or are you still running the factory ones?

Thanks!

 

[GWL]

Nice ride GWL.. just curious.. how is the ride since you lowered it? Did you change out the shocks/struts or are you still running the factory ones?

Thanks!

I kept the stock LSE struts as they seem firm enough. The ride is slightly firmer, but not as firm as my BMW 635 with Alpina suspension. To tell the truth, I do not know how the guys and gals with 2" lowering survive, as my LSE is now just over 5.2" from the pavement to the bottom of the front valance. In my case, the Eibach springs while advertised to lower 1" actually lowered my LSE 1.25" as measured before and after installation. The reason I have hesitated to go to 18" wheels is that the 45 tires will be slightly stiffer than the stock 17" 50's.

 

[razzi123]

question on the rear camber

I kept the stock LSE struts as they seem firm enough. The ride is slightly firmer, but not as firm as my BMW 635 with Alpina suspension. To tell the truth, I do not know how the guys and gals with 2" lowering survive, as my LSE is now just over 5.2" from the pavement to the bottom of the front valance. In my case, the Eibach springs while advertised to lower 1" actually lowered my LSE 1.25" as measured before and after installation. The reason I have hesitated to go to 18" wheels is that the 45 tires will be slightly stiffer than the stock 17" 50's.

I have a 2000 LS and i'v got 18" and i want to lower it but when i put it on the hoist to check i can set the camber in front but the rear is fix so i can't set it.

So when you lower the ride with the eibach springs how do you set the camber in the rear or do you just change the rubber ?

 

[Quik LS]

I have a 2000 LS and i'v got 18" and i want to lower it but when i put it on the hoist to check i can set the camber in front but the rear is fix so i can't set it.

So when you lower the ride with the eibach springs how do you set the camber in the rear or do you just change the rubber ?

there is no camber adjustment. Eibach sells a front camber kit - but everyone I know that tried to use it has taking it off - it simply doesn't work.

you usually can get the front camber pretty close, it's the rear that you can't.

 

[razzi123]

there is no camber adjustment. Eibach sells a front camber kit - but everyone I know that tried to use it has taking it off - it simply doesn't work.

you usually can get the front camber pretty close, it's the rear that you can't.

Then the tires in the back must wear out pretty quick, and i don't really want to buy 18" tires every summer.

It won't look good with a body kit if it's not lowered.

Is there anyother options to optimize the look, because my old man has an 96 impala SS and if i can't do anything with the LS well i'll just sell it and buy the impala SS.

any ideas.
Thanks

 

[Quik LS]

Then the tires in the back must wear out pretty quick, and i don't really want to buy 18" tires every summer.

Is there anyother options to optimize the look, because my old man has an 96 impala SS and if i can't do anything with the LS well i'll just sell it and buy the impala SS.

any ideas.
Thanks

honestly, lower it. being 1 or 1.5 degree out will wear the tires sooner - but if you rotate your tires every oil change - you'll be fine. plus the negative camber makes the LS corner like it's on rails...:headbang:

 

[razzi123]

honestly, lower it. being 1 or 1.5 degree out will wear the tires sooner - but if you rotate your tires every oil change - you'll be fine. plus the negative camber makes the LS corner like it's on rails...:headbang:

k thanks

 

[razzi123]

k thanks

I seen on the forum that some one had a description/manual book on the lincon LS but i can't seem to find it, do you know where i could find a description/manual of the dash on all the parts in the dash and where the blend doors for the heat are.

I have no heat and i wanted to know where the bled doors are ....?

I would really appreciate it if you could help me.

Thanks

 

[Quik LS]

the blending valve is behind the dash infront of the center console - big job to get to it - not hard but you have to rip out alot of stuff....

 

[razzi123]

the blending valve is behind the dash infront of the center console - big job to get to it - not hard but you have to rip out alot of stuff....

do you mean in the back of the climate control and the radio?

and you would have a picture of how it's made, and did you ever take it apart.

the reason im asking is i bought the car smashed and i changed the roof, passenger side piller, passenger doors and rear passenger quarter now i cleaned all of the shatered glass but there is probly some that fell inside the dash and i think that's the reason my blend doors are not working, and no heat.

I checked all the heater hoses that go to the heater motor on the firewall and they run hot all the hoses that come off the firewall heater motor are hot checked the codes and no codes so this would probly be what is wrong.