Lug Nut Blues

queitlearner

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Im am currently replacing brakes on my 02 Lincoln ls so far one lug nut on each wheel (fronts) has stripped and then broken off stud to remove wheel. Is there something to this? a secret trick? I feel like an idiot having to ask this while in the same breath uttering that I am working on brakes. lol At any rate any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Lug nuts wear out over time. I replaced all of mine with some new 12 X1.5's. Summit part number for a 4-pack is SUM 754001. Only $20 for 5 packs.
 
Orilleys have a pack of 10 for 20 bucks comes with washer if you have the mags like I do. All steal no sleeve like the OEM. I got lucky that none of my studs broke, but they had to use a tool called stubborn lug to get them off, it was a headache cost me close to two hundred dollars for the tow just to change a flat tire. Then to top it it off it started raining like cats and dogs.
 
Lug nuts wear out over time. I replaced all of mine with some new 12 X1.5's. Summit part number for a 4-pack is SUM 754001. Only $20 for 5 packs.
Appreciate the information I was finding that the replacements from the dealer are 7.33 each. Thats about a $65.00 savings overall for the complete replacement in each corner. Thank you for your time and information.
 
Orilleys have a pack of 10 for 20 bucks comes with washer if you have the mags like I do. All steal no sleeve like the OEM. I got lucky that none of my studs broke, but they had to use a tool called stubborn lug to get them off, it was a headache cost me close to two hundred dollars for the tow just to change a flat tire. Then to top it it off it started raining like cats and dogs.
Thank you for taking the time to respond. I appreciate the information and will now be saving even more money. I am at the point on the passenger side that I have just gotten out my 3/4 drive impact and I am snapping off studs like there is not tomorrow. Its truly a stubborn lug tool. LOL found the studs to be around a buck and for the time its taken to split a nut or fight with a stuck lug its in my best interest to simply explode them with my impact and replace the studs. Thanks again and have a great evening.
 
I've made posts before about what lug nuts to use as well but can't remember the part number. I got a whole set of Gorilla lugs for $20 on eBay. They also have a lifetime warranty
 
I would definitely check out rock auto as we'll. Just got 20 dorman lug nuts for around 1.20 a piece. Btw our lug nuts suuckkkk so don't feel bad haha. I pretty much expect to strip one every time I touch a wheel. Not sure exactly what you mean by stripping, I would assume you meant he aluminum covers which you can pry off with a screwdriver and flat head. You should end up with an 18 or 19 mm nut.
 

Apply penetrating fluid to old studs, gently wire brush studs, clean up studs, new fresh lugnuts,
small dab of anti-seize inside lugnuts, torq to spec, drive to work and back
then retorq to spec again, double check torq following week.

Do NOT overtighten lug nuts past recommended torq specs,


... or this could happen to you also,

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sample:

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Additionally when you have the wheels off for service it's important to wire brush the back of the rim,
inside where it meets the hub and the hub itself in and around the studs, clean this up and get rid of all
that old rust build up, this will ensure an all-even clamping force wheel onto hub seating.
----EDIT: Matting surfaces. inside rim to hub.


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Cross tighten the lug nuts onto the studs to further ensure an even clamping force onto the hub.





(and yeah, the company above took a major hit to their operating authority due to improper maintenance processes.)
(I took a lighter slap across the fingers due to being the responsible operator in charge of involved equipment.)
(don't bother with the flaming of truck drivers, I've heard it a thousand times by now, SH*T happens, no one died!)




Please don't take lugnuts/studs for granted, take the time to do it right, buy a torque wrench please!
Look up the involved manufactures' recommended torque specifications for what ever you tighten down.

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Apply penetrating fluid to old studs, gently wire brush studs, clean up studs, new fresh lugnuts,
small dab of anti-seize inside lugnuts, torq to spec, drive to work and back
then retorq to spec again

Sorry bigrig, I don't mean to argue with you but you should never be putting anti-seize on lug nuts. Cleaning up the studs and torquing the nuts to the proper spec should be plenty good enough. Especially if you're rotating your tires on a routine schedule and you have a bunch of new studs. I believe the spec is 100, I like to do 110ft/lbs but it should be in your manual. I do agree with checking them after and everything else you said. Again, not trying to put you down, I know you put out some good info. Can't believe I didn't mention the penetrating fluid.
 
No argue ... all good, I totally respect others input, we all learn from it.

I'm up in the Great white North Canada and everything rusts to hell around here with the amount of road salt they lay down.

The use of lubricants and anti-sizing compounds on the threads of the wheels studs or lug nuts can cause an even higher degree of over-torquing. Despite that, anti-seize would assist in the lugs not getting so rotten on they'd present a problem getting them off again.
"So long it's not over-torqued with an impact" ... is what I was told, maybe ill-informed <shrugs>
But like you said, if a regular scheduled wheel swap is performed they should come off easily.

The specific torque required to install a wheel varies from vehicle to vehicle. Generally, the proper torque for the lug nuts on passenger vehicles will be around 100 foot-pounds and the proper torque for big trucks will be around 450-500 foot-pounds. Impact wrenches commonly used to install wheels on passenger vehicles are capable of producing 300 to 500 foot-pounds of torque. Impact wrenches used to install wheels on big trucks can produce 1200 to 2000 foot-pounds or torque.

In the trucking industry (around here anyways) it's required to replace all 10 studs and lug nuts at each 5th interval.
That's 5 mandatory annual inspections and records must then show new parts allocated for that equipment.
 

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