machining V.S. replacing rotors

P

psungee

Guest
Hey folks,

I'm poking 'round for an opinion here...

My front rotors are a bit warped and I need to deal with 'em. I was told that if I machine them within three to four months they will, once again, start giving me bumpy stops and I should replace the rotors.

Can anyone offer me an informed opinion on this please?

Thanks much!
 
First how many miles are on the rotors? Turning rotors can cost from 10-15 bucks. New rotors are 25-40. If your rotors keep warping you probably have a bad set and will have to keep getting them turned.
 
mespock said:
R1 Concepts has a nice price on Rotors for LvC members. Check out the thread in the Mark VIII forum.
Click to expand...

It would make a STACK of sense (seems way better than what I'll buy here) if I were in the US but I'll get screwed bringing them in to Canada (and I'm not doing a US trip soon enough) but appreciate you bringing it to my attention. Thanks.
 
The 4F1Z-1125-AA frt rotors are 99.98 retail and cost you 71.99 each weigh 18 pounds each...so 40 pounds shipped priority USPS to Canada cannot be too bad...a postal code would get you a pretty close shipping $$ from Arizona.
 
just as a reference, it was like 17 bucks to ship USPS to canada, for like 7 lbs!

I forgot the exact numbers, but I may be able to dig em up.

ok, while not an exact match, a 2lb parcel from Traverse City, to Winnipeg was $8.26... so it isn't cheap sending stuff across the border.. and the damn customs paperwork.. while not hard, I hate standing around at the p/o filling out paper..
 
machining brake rotors

The warping or uneven braking comes from the heat build up while braking.
Heat continues to build while the brakes are applied. Pumping the brakes while stopping will drastically lower the rotor temperature even if only momentarily greatly avoiding warping.
Having your brakes turned will get rid of the uneven braking. You may continue to turn (Machine) your rotors many times but never go beyond the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor.
 
vtor said:
The warping or uneven braking comes from the heat build up while braking.
Heat continues to build while the brakes are applied. Pumping the brakes while stopping will drastically lower the rotor temperature even if only momentarily greatly avoiding warping.
Having your brakes turned will get rid of the uneven braking. You may continue to turn (Machine) your rotors many times but never go beyond the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor.
Click to expand...

yup...

however, if you get more than 1 cut on a rotor these days, your doing good. they just dont make em like they used to.

one thing that can help also is when you brake to a stop.. leave a few feet between you and the car in front. that way you can slowly creep forward some, to allow the rotor to cool more evenly (very little heat is generated by such slow speed braking). it will also help keep the pads from frying on a real hot rotor, by allowing the area under the pads to be cooler (cooler spot on the rotor gets moved to under the pad).
 
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