Meziere Water Pump Wiring

I was JUST looking this up yesterday. Do a search on Google for "meziere water pump install ford" or something like that. Definitely use a relay and their WIK346 relay kit looks like it makes it a good bit easier. You'll come up with a few threads that will give you a good idea of what you need to do...
 
I'll be happy to post up pics of my install & wiring, but I use my gf's iPhone4s to take the pics because it takes much better pics than my camera phone.

It's not permanently wired up, but it looks clean, neat, and stock looking the way it sits.
 
I am curious. You folks with the electric water pumps, do you have a larger alt? I only ask because I know in the Summer with the AC on max and the headlights on and the stereo just playing background noise that if you are in gear and at a light you are at the absolute max ability of the alt to charge the system. Seems like another 10 amps is enough to tax the system.
 
I used their relay kit in the '93. I don't have any detailed pics of the wiring but it's pretty basic. I ran the fused lead back along the fuel rail on the driver's side to the rear of the motor where I have the relay mounted that is where the EGR/IMRC solenoids used to be. Tap any 'hot while running' wire in the engine compartment for the relay trigger. The power wire to the relay comes right off the distribution block on the side of the engine compartment fuse box.

I noticed no additional alternator load.
 
GMAN said:
I've been hesitating putting it on. Since I don't race my car, are there any advantages to using it?
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Actually it has better coolant flow at idle and low rpms since the water pump speed is independent of the engine rpms.
 
I like mine and have no complaints. Biggest problem I've heard of is loose wiring getting snagged by the belt.
 
Greg, how many Marks have you owned? Out of all of them, have you had one overheat because your water pump wasn't good enough? I never have and I'm just as far down South as you. I have only had to replace one water pump out of three Marks but even with the bad one that was squealing like a stuck hog, it still kept the engine cool.
 
NoLimit95 said:
Greg, how many Marks have you owned? Out of all of them, have you had one overheat because your water pump wasn't good enough? I never have and I'm just as far down South as you. I have only had to replace one water pump out of three Marks but even with the bad one that was squealing like a stuck hog, it still kept the engine cool.
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I have never had to replace a water pump. I don't distrust plain mechanical water pumps either. I have this one just sitting on the shelf, and I am thinking of using it.
 
Gman I've had mine in my DD since i put her on the road a year ago with no issues. Ill take pics tomorrow. I ran a normal double latching 30 amp relay, mounted it right behind the drivers side strut tower next to the other electrical plug mount ng bracket, which made wiring very easy. i routed the harness directly up to underneath the intake and back. There is no chance of contacting the belt. I don't see any draw backs except maybe motor failure. really no different than seal or bearing failure in a mechanical. Its also nice that you can throw a belt and still drive to Auto Blown without overheating. Ill take pics tomorrow morning but i'd def install it. Plus on a civic motor its worth 25 HP!
 
GMAN said:
I am mainly curious as to where everyone is accessing the trigger.
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I have my trigger wire tied to the big amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood.

So it runs anything the key is on.
 
Ok, here are a few pictures of my wiring (temporary until I see it's going to work fine, then I will solder them in permanently). Please excuse how dirty the engine is - it's not a show car and I'm still fixing it...

Here is coming off the pump tucked up behind the crossover tube (the connector is white if you look closely):
WP-Under_Crossover.jpg


Here is runs up alongside the valve cover before coming over the cover (wrapped with a wire loom):
WP-Wiring_Valve_Cover.jpg


Here is where it goes to the relay (only wedged in there right now, but will be bolted):
WP-Loom.jpg


Here is where I tagged it to a couple of the fuses (one constant hot, the other switched hot):
WP-Fuse_Box.jpg
 
GMAN said:
It looks like you have the green wire going to three locations in the fuse box?
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No, I just used a section of green wire to extend the orange wire (constant hot). It's wired to a constant hot. The other green wires that comes into the box green goes to a switched hot connection. There is just a bunch of extra wire in there since I just stuck it in temporary for testing.

If you look carefully, the orange wire changes to green and runs straight up to where it is directly plugged in to the open slot (the one with the fuse missing).

The switched wire is green all the way and very long and I have it looped a couple of times before hooking to the last 20A fuse by the hinge of the cover. It's just looped between the 30A and the 20A, not hooked to anything.
 
NetKeym said:
No, I just used a section of green wire to extend the orange wire (constant hot). It's wired to a constant hot. The other green wires that comes into the box green goes to a switched hot connection. There is just a bunch of extra wire in there since I just stuck it in temporary for testing.

If you look carefully, the orange wire changes to green and runs straight up to where it is directly plugged in to the open slot (the one with the fuse missing).

The switched wire is green all the way and very long and I have it looped a couple of times before hooking to the last 20A fuse by the hinge of the cover. It's just looped between the 30A and the 20A, not hooked to anything.
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OK, I see. You didn't get your hot directly from the battery.
 
GMAN said:
OK, I see. You didn't get your hot directly from the battery.
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I might when it's permanently installed since that little black cover that is wedged against the relay has the main red cable from the battery under it! lol
 
Sorry for the delay crazy weekend.

I got power and ground directly from the battery.
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Relay mounting. I used the orange/white wire from the plug to the right of the relay for my trigger.
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Guys Guys... Don't take this the wrong way but come on now! Cleary you have the ability and the knowledge to install and make the pump work among other things. I hate seeing wires run in and tapped into fuse locations. Worst invention ever was a fuse tap btw.
Take the time to find a wire on the fused side of the fuse, not the feed side; unbolt the fuse box and tap into the wire properly.
I know sometimes we just need to get stuff done but I've seen way to many bad things happen with poor electrical connections in cars, I did custom installs for years and you wouldn't believe some of crazy stuff people do... Well some of you would.
 
97MarkJA said:
Guys Guys... Don't take this the wrong way but come on now! Cleary you have the ability and the knowledge to install and make the pump work among other things. I hate seeing wires run in and tapped into fuse locations. Worst invention ever was a fuse tap btw.
Take the time to find a wire on the fused side of the fuse, not the feed side; unbolt the fuse box and tap into the wire properly.
I know sometimes we just need to get stuff done but I've seen way to many bad things happen with poor electrical connections in cars, I did custom installs for years and you wouldn't believe some of crazy stuff people do... Well some of you would.
Click to expand...

FWIW, my hookup is only temporary to see if it was going to work ok for a DD, and I didn't put the wire on the fused side (obviously since in the pic you can see the fuse isn't even in where one wire is plugged in). Since it has an inline fuse, I figured I could hook it straight.

So far, the cooling is NOT sufficient in my case - car runs hotter than before and if I hot-rod it, the temp climbs steadily. I'm going to try a high-flow 180* t-stat first, then prolly go with a Cobra radiator afterwards. Those are the mods it took in my TBird to get it to run cool (it's hot here).
 
NetKeym said:
FWIW, my hookup is only temporary to see if it was going to work ok for a DD, and I didn't put the wire on the fused side (obviously since in the pic you can see the fuse isn't even in where one wire is plugged in). Since it has an inline fuse, I figured I could hook it straight.

So far, the cooling is NOT sufficient in my case - car runs hotter than before and if I hot-rod it, the temp climbs steadily. I'm going to try a high-flow 180* t-stat first, then prolly go with a Cobra radiator afterwards. Those are the mods it took in my TBird to get it to run cool (it's hot here).
Click to expand...

Did it run hot with the factory WP? Is the radiator still the original now?
I've looked at the cobra radiators and the I can't tell if the cobra replacements are all aluminium or plastic tanks. I know I can get a becool or others.. but they are proud of them.
I know its taller but I could notch the lower panel to get it into the same location, I need the space infront of the motor for the snail and pipe.
Where and what did you get for your bird?
 
97MarkJA said:
Did it run hot with the factory WP? Is the radiator still the original now?
I've looked at the cobra radiators and the I can't tell if the cobra replacements are all aluminium or plastic tanks. I know I can get a becool or others.. but they are proud of them.
I know its taller but I could notch the lower panel to get it into the same location, I need the space infront of the motor for the snail and pipe.
Where and what did you get for your bird?
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Yea, the only thing changed was the water pump, and I've "burped" the system like crazy - I don't believe there is any air in the system.

The radiator I'm looking at is all aluminum and like I said previously, I've got one in the Bird and it was the ONLY thing that kept the temps down in it. As for the taller issue, I just flipped the top mounts over on the Bird and fit perfectly. Everybody who looks at my Bird install comments how stock it looks. Here are some pics (sorry I used a crappie phone cam):

CobraRadiator.jpg

CobraRadiatorInstalled2.jpg

CobraRadiatorInstalled3.jpg
 
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