Misfire/Runnin Rouggh

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CBRKLR

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I found my 01 LS V8 running rough the other day, took it to an auto parts store and had codes checked. Cam=e back #4 cylinder misfiring. Order a new coil, installed all 4 spark plugs, same condition. Took it to a shop who did $540 worth of work (diagnostics and 4 other plugs), and came back that the MAF sensor was bad....wanted $400 more to replace it. I passed, order a new one for *$82 and replaced it myself. Disconnected battery, reset check engine light, no light but still runs rough. Any ideas what else it could be??? Also preiously had all 4 02 sensors replaced so its not that. Thanks
 
CBRKLR said:
I found my 01 LS V8 running rough the other day, took it to an auto parts store and had codes checked. Cam=e back #4 cylinder misfiring. Order a new coil, installed all 4 spark plugs, same condition. Took it to a shop who did $540 worth of work (diagnostics and 4 other plugs), and came back that the MAF sensor was bad....wanted $400 more to replace it. I passed, order a new one for *$82 and replaced it myself. Disconnected battery, reset check engine light, no light but still runs rough. Any ideas what else it could be??? Also preiously had all 4 02 sensors replaced so its not that. Thanks
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Brand of plugs, COPs, and MAF?
 
Duralast New Mass Air Flow Sensor DL-3122

Bosch Iridium Spark Plug 9603​

Denso Ignition Coil 673-6004​


I also replaced the gas cap and the latest code thrown is P1132
 
CBRKLR said:
Duralast New Mass Air Flow Sensor DL-3122

Bosch Iridium Spark Plug 9603​

Denso Ignition Coil 673-6004​


I also replaced the gas cap and the latest code thrown is P1132
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This is probably not you problem, but by my experiences (and several others') Bosch spark plugs and Ford don't get along well. I'd put the correct plugs in, and set the gap to exactly 1.0mm.
Many have had bad luck with non-oem COPs.
Did you correctly identify the #4 cylinder?
Are you sure the PCM is correctly identifying the misfiring cylinder? (Sometimes, it does get that wrong.)
It is often best to replace all eight COPs at the same time.
Did you do a compression test?
Possible bad fuel injector.
What are the long term and short term fuel trims?
Possible air leak at intake manifold gaskets.
 
You replaced the O2 sensors but the car is still throwing an O2 code?
I think more checking of the O2 circuits is indicated?
If the sensors are good (new?) then you have a wiring problem? Maybe?
Here is a short article and as always that code can mean more than one thing.
Code 1132

Note this is the O2 monitor code. So until you drive enough to reset this it might not be a problem at all?
Anymore codes?
What are the condition of the all the monitors? They should be ALL unset if you clear the codes. That's how it's suppose to work. Again the car will ALWAYS have either P1000 or P1111 depending on the status of the monitors. When people state the car has no codes that's not correct as those 2 codes will be present.

Also please post all codes (actual numbers) AND be sure and clear all codes after you do any work. We want the car to show us what's wrong so start with a blank slate.
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"I'd put the correct plugs in, and set the gap to exactly 1.0mm."
I couldn't agree more with this statement...I've found that the Lincoln LS works best with NGK plugs properly gapped...ppl who have owned these cars have had the best luck with Motorcraft COPs but My 2002 LSE V8 hasn't had a single misfire in three years after replacing all 8 coils with these
Screenshot_20230223-074154_Chrome.jpg
 
Note: Use about a dime size amount of dielectric grease on the bottom of the Coil Over Plugs to prevent moisture due to water or leakage that may be coming from your wiper cowl...I've never had this problem on my LSes but many threads on ppl battling this issue due to bad wiper cowl this part may be very loose and thats where the problem exists allowing water to run into cylinder 4 or 8
 
THanks for all the replies...the plugs were replaced AFTER the misfire/rough running was noticed, so that cant be whats CAUSING the issue...but I see your ppints. The O2 sensors were replaced last summer. I did find some oil on one of the plugs so I suspect a leaking valve cover gasket.
 
CBRKLR said:
THanks for all the replies...the plugs were replaced AFTER the misfire/rough running was noticed, so that cant be whats CAUSING the issue...but I see your ppints. The O2 sensors were replaced last summer. I did find some oil on one of the plugs so I suspect a leaking valve cover gasket.
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That would definitely cause a misfire
 
CBRKLR said:
THanks for all the replies...the plugs were replaced AFTER the misfire/rough running was noticed, so that cant be whats CAUSING the issue..
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Be careful with such absolute statements. You would certainly not be the first person to have received bad new parts out of the box, or had parts get damaged during the installation process. Sure, if the symptoms don't change at all, then suspecting a new part would not be the first thing to consider, but you don't want to absolutely rule it out if symptoms continue to point to said part. With spark plugs, coils, and fuel injectors one nice thing is you can try moving them amongst cylinders to see if the misfire follows a particular item or remains on the cylinder.

Is the P1132 the only diagnostic code you currently are reading, or do you still have the (assumed) P0304?

-Rod
 
SHORod said:
Be careful with such absolute statements. You would certainly not be the first person to have received bad new parts out of the box, or had parts get damaged during the installation process. Sure, if the symptoms don't change at all, then suspecting a new part would not be the first thing to consider, but you don't want to absolutely rule it out if symptoms continue to point to said part. With spark plugs, coils, and fuel injectors one nice thing is you can try moving them amongst cylinders to see if the misfire follows a particular item or remains on the cylinder.

Is the P1132 the only diagnostic code you currently are reading, or do you still have the (assumed) P0304?

-Rod
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Absolutely solid advice! I had a bad #6 misfire on my V6. Changed cops to no avail. It turned out to be a bad spark plug and that plug was not very old.
 
AmsterDutch said:
Note: Use about a dime size amount of dielectric grease on the bottom of the Coil Over Plugs to prevent moisture due to water or leakage that may be coming from your wiper cowl...I've never had this problem on my LSes but many threads on ppl battling this issue due to bad wiper cowl this part may be very loose and thats where the problem exists allowing water to run into cylinder 4 or 8
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The water leaking issue from the crowl onto the engine can be controlled by improving the coil cover seals. Remove covers with a magnet close by to hold the 5mm screws. Clean the coil covers and the valve covers well with brake/electronic cleaner to remove the oil. Apply a bead of silicone on triangle profile of the coil cover seal. Take a oversized sheet of Saran Wrap over the seal with a slight pocket in the wrap to clear the coils. Install lightly on the valve covers and about an hour later a light snug tightening of the screws. The next cool down of the engine, tighten down a little more. This silicone on the coil covers ended water puddling near to the coils.
 
If you found oil on top of one of your plugs where the cops go then you need to take some brakleen and spray your plug well and blow out the oil residue with air compressor make sure your cop an plug dont have any oil residue still on them when you reinstall them. Also id check my other plugs n coils to be sure they were clean to.As stated above not all new parts are perfect right outta the box. Its a gamble buying aftermarket parts. A year ago I used NGK Plugs an NGK cops and my 06 runs great. So far so good anyway. Also ive seen plugs that had been broken when they were being gapped. The little iridium part breaks off inside the plug would wiggle and cause it to not make contact sometimes. You could also check to see if your getting unmetered air in somewhere after your maf. Hope you find whats causing your problem,an if you do give us a update on it. Good Luck.
 
SteveOwens said:
The water leaking issue from the crowl onto the engine can be controlled by improving the coil cover seals. Remove covers with a magnet close by to hold the 5mm screws. Clean the coil covers and the valve covers well with brake/electronic cleaner to remove the oil. Apply a bead of silicone on triangle profile of the coil cover seal. Take a oversized sheet of Saran Wrap over the seal with a slight pocket in the wrap to clear the coils. Install lightly on the valve covers and about an hour later a light snug tightening of the screws. The next cool down of the engine, tighten down a little more. This silicone on the coil covers ended water puddling near to the coils.
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Actually... Ford had a Technical Service Bulletin about the wiper cowl and the seals around the wiper arm shafts.

When those parts fail... the water will migrate inside the coil harness and cause electrical issues (mostly) with the passenger side coils.

No amount of silicone will fully seal the harness or coil covers.

At 275k miles... I have been running with the coil covers off since 72k miles, with no issues.
 
still idles rough (like it has a bi cam in it) but not losing any MPG on the highway...still not sure what the issue is
 
CBRKLR said:
still idles rough (like it has a bi cam in it) but not losing any MPG on the highway...still not sure what the issue is
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My V6 had that issue due to a severed vacuum line for the PCV. Any vacuum leak will lead to rough idle, but at cruising or driving speeds, there is little impact at all.
 
@CBRKLR another thing you could check is your fuel filter and see if its starting to clog up. I changed mine bout 3 months ago and thick dark brown trash just poured out of it when i dumped it into a bowl. Im not sure how that crap got into the tank to begin with but my filter was full of the stuff. After what I seen come out of the filter ive been thinking about pulling the fuel pump and checking the filter in the tank to see how bad it is in there.
 
Buckie said:
@CBRKLR another thing you could check is your fuel filter and see if its starting to clog up. I changed mine bout 3 months ago and thick dark brown trash just poured out of it when i dumped it into a bowl. Im not sure how that crap got into the tank to begin with but my filter was full of the stuff. After what I seen come out of the filter ive been thinking about pulling the fuel pump and checking the filter in the tank to see how bad it is in there.
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Not a bad idea, my fuel pump went out and filter was like you describe. Whole tank was full of crap and nasty, had been sitting a while before i bought it, bad fuel and fuel pump tubing degraded and disintegrated into little pieces and plugged jet pump intake and nozzle. Was nasty in there, crazy how much crap. I almost think someone may have put stuff in there on purpose, but i haven't looked in many fuel tanks so maybe it's normal.
 
SultanGris said:
... I almost think someone may have put stuff in there on purpose, but i haven't looked in many fuel tanks so maybe it's normal.
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I've only ever looked into two fuel tanks, both on cars over 10 years and 100K miles. Both were crystal clean (surprised me).
 
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